Absolutely! Really enjoyed Pizzamas this year!

@@TheEveryMaker a happy late pizzamas to you too!

I made a couple different version of the linked plans for a couple different lengths. I didn't glue on a sacrificial strip to start because once this starts to get chewed up, I'll cut off the bottom and glue on a new piece then. I'm not worried about the metal bolt as I'll never cut that deep into the push block, however using a wooden or plastic one would certainly make it safer. I think I even used a wood dowel in my plans instead of the bolt, just to give a little extra space.

Well thank you! I found it so incredibly useful!.

There is a local Makerspace that has a vinyl cutter, though I didn't know about it at the time. I think there are also some online services you can order vinyl cutouts, that would have made this much easier! I do like the idea of sandblasting, though this was a way I could do this project without investing in any additional tools. I like the idea though, if you have access!

I honestly don't remember. It's likely that I saw someone do it (probably my Dad) once before, but don't remember it. I hope you are able to get that tight of a tolerance on your straight edges. I haven't gone that tight before, though I have seen metal workers use similar techniques to verify flat surfaces.

I had actually considered drilling out a bigger hole and putting in an LED in the end. Would need a long drill bit to go through the whole thing for the battery and other electronics, but that is definitely a great solution!

Absolutely agree! My straight edge isn't one I could flip on that axis since it had a bunch of raised surfaces on the top. However, the chance of it being a perfection symmetrical S shape is pretty slim, so I accepted the risk and was able to verify the accuracy later. And a good note going end over end, that is far more likely to be an issue.

My name is Nick, but thank you!

I hope it helped! Thank you for watching!

Thank you for the information and thank you for watching! The tolerances of working with metal are always so tight! I took a class in metal working and it was amazing to see the difference between wood and metal.

Of course, be my guest! The legs ended up being about 27 3/8 inches long from the edge to the furthest tip. The dowel is 31 1/2 inches long. Hope you have fun building it! If you do, post it somewhere and tag me!

In a lot of cases, eyeballing it can give you a close enough, but really dialing in my tools took my woodworking to another level.

I do try to keep the captions up to date if you'd rather mute and learn in silence. However, there are a lot of great channels out there that don't use music. I hope you find some good content that suits your needs.

Thank you!

I think I got mine at Lowes, but it looks like they carry Swanson at Lowes and Home Depot.

Thank you for checking it out! I'm always surprised by how many people still watch. I really want to get back into it, and someday soon I will.

This should work with aluminum as well. I have seen people do full on baths with the positive connected to the item you are etching, and the negative attached to another piece of metal (like stainless steel). Then just plug it in and let it do it's thing. You can also use paint to protect the surface of the metal. Probably want to use a latex paint or some other water resistant paint. I've not tried it, so do at your own risk, but experiment away!

Thank you for watching!

I have had my cup for several years now and there is no rust. It's just exposing fresh metal though, so treat it as you would the rest of the blade and you should be good.

That was my original plan, but it has a slight friction fit to it that holds it together. It almost became just a fidget toy because of that sound!

The better equipment you start with the easier it is to make sure everything is straight and even. I had good luck with my my setup and found some "straight edges" that weren't quite. But once I got everything dialed in, I was able to do much more accurate work.

That was a piece of Holly from a not so healthy tree in my side yard. I liked the gnarly texture and natural look of it.

I have actually had some reasonably good quality stuff come from HF, though I was surprised just how bad the squares were. Most squares you can adjust somewhat to get them into alignment, but in this case, not so much.

I am no expert, but looking up a specialty etching machine, it is 12v at 3a. They have a plus model that is 24v at 3a. I would still be careful, especially when dealing with the salt water at those levels, but it should still be safe with the proper precautions.

You are so welcome! Thank you for watching!

Thank you so much!

I'm so glad you found the instructions helpful! I have to admit, this was a spur of the moment design and it's turned out to be one of my most useful projects!

So glad you like it! Thank you for watching!

Thank you so much for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Glad you liked it! Never thought of it that way, thank you for the kind comment!

@@TheEveryMaker yeah it was very organised and full of elements

There are definitely many ways to achieve this kind of etching, but I found this to be not only a fun project, but an interesting introduction into electrical etching. My dad used to have a sand blasting station, which would be great for something like this. I've seen people just use clear mat paint to make it look like an etch, or just sanding it in. I like the ability to get finder detail with this method and not having to buy any other materials other than what I had on hand. What method would you use?

Thank you!

You'd be surprised how many squares are not square. I've checked them from Harbor Freight, but also from places like Lowes, Home Depot and many other places. In some cases, they are good enough, often the case in construction. But when doing fine furniture or detail projects, it those small discrepancies really make a difference.

Great question. In dealing with this it's a voltage and amperage issue. Since we are using such a low amperage and voltage, there really was no risk to me. It's been a while since I've done the project, but there is a lot of good information out there about the level of voltage and amperage you need to be concerned about.

Happy to help!

Thank you! I'm glad you found it useful!

Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching!

It really made a difference it my work. The basis for all things, including making sure your square is square!

I had good ventilation when I did the project. It took a long time to do and there was very little gas produced. Though if you have concerns, I would definitely suggest investigating the amount necessary to be a concern.

That is something that needs to be checked. Fortunately, I have a video on how to check a straight edge!

I know right?! I have a bin full of them in the attic.

Good ventilation is the key, also you can wear a mask, but always better to be safe.

So glad for the approval! Thank you for watching!

Thank you, I'm glad you liked it! Thank you for watching!

You mean the music?

I'm so glad you found it helpful! Thank you for watching!

It's all about conducting the electricity. For me, I used the plyers as a stiff base to wrap the cotton around and conduct the electricity. Plus, the rubber handles made me a little more comfortable, those as these voltages/amperage, it's not that big of a deal. As long as you have something attached and there is enough saturation in the cottons swab, you should be fine.

@@TheEveryMaker thankyou!

Thank you for the feedback. Something happened between mastering the audio and exporting and it's a bit louder than I wanted, but too late to do anything about it now. Thank you for subscribing! I hope to have new videos soon.