I haven't any. A lot of mature trees are dying or struggling from an invasive canker. One's I've started are not yet mature.

That is his one of his favorite perches.

Those GPS types are expensive $8000+ for Trimble GeoX types. A Garmin 64S won't display huge MrSid images for instance, takes too much memory and would be very slow scrolling. But these small Garmins are great for something 1 km x 1 km as a jpg image for an area that might be a woodlot or a large farm with parcels adjoining. Even on an expensive Trimble handheld it probably won't handle more than 1 map tile in display very well, and frankly it would be useless on a small screen. A large scale photo is much more useful, scaled up to 1:1000 or something larger on a tiny screen.

I have access to a whole library of free MrSid's for where I live. Just a matter of cropping the area of interest and saving as a JPG file to the Garmin, loading it as an overlay into Google Earth, adjusting to fit with the drag handles and saving place as a KML file. You may not do it for 100 photos, but just as needed. In my work, I might be on a parcel of land 4 days in a row collecting GPS data from a 20 ha cut block in the forest. Once I am there on site, I could use the overlay to define where I need to walk a perimeter, or actually have it outlined ahead of time as a custom map and not even use the photo. A custom outline map is what I mostly use. The photos I use in my GIS program to make the custom perimeter files and never need to send the photo to the Garmin. The photo is useful if roads are not up to date on your GIS, you can find alternate routes in, if say, a beaver has one road flooded. Where else can I come in from?

@@SwampDonkey2010 lol actually my 64 is hacked. Lol I have a 128g micro in there with a booster 😅 it handles alot really well. The small screen is a problem when it comes to seeing small details. HOWEVER I'm a big GIS guy and I found that QGIS has good plug-ins to convert maps for the garmin (if I had ever known that I would have never even bought any garmin subscription). Yesterday I downloaded all of the state of New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Texas, and Oklahoma (everywhere I work lol) in satellite, topo, contours and even got it to do DEMs (select locations) on there as well.

@@patrickmesa1947 I use ExpertGPS to work with GPX files, but to make a GPS map (not a track file) I use Mapwel to generate *.IMG files. I have all the forest roads, streams, and property boundaries for the counties I work in (and annotations). All that stuff is free as shapefiles from the government. My GIS is Maptitude, way less than ArcGIS and more features straight out of the box. I edit shapefiles with fGIS. Never got into QGIS, I've known about it for years. I've been in the GIS/GPS game for 25 years. In a week, the data I collect in the woods on the Garmin is worth 3 times as much as the GPS. I don't do anything sophisticated because all I need is a perimeter, strips lines across it (that has to be walked in the woods) and spit out a polygon map as a PDF file and shapefiles for the boss and forest companies.

@@SwampDonkey2010 oh man you got to get into qgis. I work with ArcMap and Pro for my work (I work with mapping underwater plume maps for aquifer leaks and water table geology, as well as surface leeching and drill bores, and man I'll take qgis over Arc any day. Qgis allows me to do subsurface mapping (like volcan) as well as create subsurface contours and above ground contours. Amazing with working with sentinel2 and landsat8 imagery. It also has QCAD so I can do realworld Autocad on my maps as well. And it's ALL free.

I like it very much, I'm heating 3000 square feet, basement and 2 floors. My ducts go to both first and second floor of the living space. However, I open the ash pan door when building a fire until the fan kicks in. That feeds air under your fire and up the grate holes. That speeds up the process of building your fire. Then after, just close up the ash pan door and leave it closed. That's the only flaw I see with them. Other than that, there's plenty of heat. I also benefit a lot from solar heating on sunny days, where I don't burn wood from mid morning until dark, even on the coldest day of winter. I'm burning wood that I thin off the woodlot, which is mainly softwood and aspen. I have hardwoods, but I don't cut one unless it's junk. Got lots of other wood species to burn that needs thinned.

@@SwampDonkey2010 thanks for your reply. What kind of temps do you get in the winter? I'm in Canada, norther Ontario we often get -30 and a few wks of -40 celsius. Also what kind of burn time are you getting?

@@wideopen718 I'm in New Brunswick, it was -15C this morning (we have no snow) and -25C up in Edmundston. But raining tomorrow, go figure. I get around 5 hrs heat off aspen and fir where the blower fan can still throw heat. But I get 8 hrs with still coals. This is not the lager 200 model. But I've never been cold. We can get -30C or even -50C below in January. But we don't get steady extreme cold all winter here, the average would be -19C of winter cold. You know what wood fire is like. On sunny days I'll open a window or the sun drives the heat up to 90F. hahahaha Overcast days I like to aim for 75-77F in here. Sometimes I'm wasting wood as a matter of fact, just to keep a bed of coals but not load the fire box to the brim. But I've got 10-1/2 cord all seasoned and dry, plus another 7-1/2 cord on reserve. Like the neighbor here said about her 200 gallon gas tank for her car. I've got it, might as well burn it. hahahahaha

@@SwampDonkey2010 ok perfect, thanks for the information very helpful.

It's my own hand crafted fly shuttle.

Thanks for the tip, I will try it out sometime. I mostly like to use image overlays of old topo maps when travelling. But, photos are great for locating new forest roads and ways into a block that are unfamiliar. Google is usually pretty recent up this way so a 10 year old clearcut and roads into it will show nicely. I measure and mark out a lot of spacing saw sites we thin. I use areals from Google to outline the perimeters within my GIS.

I’m still using my trusty old Garmin GPSMAP 60CS. I often kayak around mangrove islands and bayous in Florida. It can be a real maze in there. I need GOOD Topo maps to avoid getting lost. None of the online Topo maps I find have enough detail, so I used to make my own from loading Google Earth Pro snapshots into Mapwel. Only problem was that I had to determine Several gps Landmarks to determine the geolocation of the imported image. This was tedious and prone to error. After watching how to generate an georeferenced overlay and saving it, I tried it and was amazed how simple it was compared to what I was doing. I still had to create a rastor map, but now had a perfect reference image to start with. After making my first map using what you showed in your video, I downloaded a ten mile track from a recent kayak trip and it perfectly fit on the map! That proves I’ll be able to use this method successfully in the future. Thanks again!

@@Thfeyhvfdetyhbvcd I'm glad you had success. I to use Mapwel to put blocks, forest roads, streams, property lines.......line and polygon data, onto my GPS.

Only if you have a custom image overlay map with the same coverage, for instance a custom image topo map overlay where you want an aerial photo. I have a custom image topo map overlay with all the salmon fishing pools on the Upsulquitch River in New Brunswick. I can't view a custom aerial photo image overlay map under that one. You can display a custom map if it is just lines and annotation though. I can show woodlot boundaries on an aerial photo image overlay, as the boundary lines are not an image overlay. I also have a custom forest road map, not an image overlay.

No, it's on a supplementary beam overhead, it has a friction break. I wound it first onto the sectional beam below with tension box and spools, then wound it off onto the beam overhead. Just wind away as it is pulled off the main beam below, with even tension. Flanges on that supplementary beam eliminate packing material.

I've recently wove 2 bath towels in this technique using 20/2 cotton. I wove it at 40 epi, but previously I wove wash cloths at 48 epi, this gives a denser pile and is sturdier than at 40 epi. Two beams are used. This sampling video above was used weighted warp with dowels for the pile. Refer to this video link of me weaving the towels. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aImVfZWLocpmZ7M

The pulleys are wood, and maybe the side to side sway of levers (lamms,treadles) . The shaft the pulleys turn on are waxed. It's just the nature of primitive, simple machines I'm afraid. :)

Hi Jason, The link below will take you to some photos of the cloth and what I used it for. :) weavolution.com/project/reedguy/8-shaft-overshot-expanded-bertha-gray-hayes-miniature-rosette-bath-robe-projectc Enjoy

Around every 2" Linda. But I normally follow the repeat, in simple twills or laces or break it up for overshot that might take 48 or 96 picks for instance.

1-3 m, accurate enough for forestry. It's not survey grade. A modern Garmin such as GPSMap 64s is just as accurate. Lots of folks using Garmins for forestry work.

Ok. Thank you

Yes, I would rarely use it myself except it is not used on a sectional, it is used on a bare beam. The tension box here just keeps the yarns taut for easier working with the paddle because of the manipulations involved in making the cross coming into the dowels and exiting the dowels. If I used 2 or 4 threads I just use my bare hands and do a 2 x 2 or 4 x 4 cross without it. I would only use this paddle when I need my second beam which is bare with flanges. There are photos on my Facebook page of my warping mill and the cross with the paddle. Additional comments there about the method.

+Tess Earle You wouldn't want to do it for many projects in a row. But I do know off some folks that weave standing as well. Once I get my new wood working shop set up I'll be getting my flyshuttle bugs ironed out.

No more back pain or standing for long..kzbin.info/www/bejne/jGaahJegiZKnfJY

+Melanie Sharp, sorry no. Ed Worst's book "Foot Powered Loom Weaving" is the only plan I have seen. It's at archive.org

+SwampDonkey2010 Thank you for your reply. I'll keep looking, but if you happen on anything, I'd surely appreciate it if you shared!

+Claudia Segal Good point, but I like my music. :)

Did you set the knife depth with the guage? Once set don't bother that bolt on the blade side. You also need to use strait grain wood. I always follow the manufacturers chart and guide info. And every species of wood has it's own way of behaving, so you have to micro adjust the forward knife for that to ge a smooth cut. The back knife just roughs it out. Speed and force is a big factor to, don't dry to go too fast if the wood is spintering in the first insert. I've made a pile of dowels for things like a weaving spreader, drying rack, spools, spool rack dowels. To buy dowel, it's rediculously priced

thank you sir, I am wanting to make dowels for arrowshafts, and i have used the gauge, now lol, and ill have to fine tune it, and i just cant stand the 2 dollar random hardwood dowels that literally are snakes and oe so curved even a Deity could not straighten it

Main warp beam for the ground cloth and a supplemental beam for the pile with ratchet released when weaving.