This is a great video, I can’t believe you don’t have more subscribers

could you use Fingal sanders instead of making your own?

OMG AAA hobbies was THE hobbie shop when i was younger… i just got my first new model in YEARS and this was the first video i looked up for some tips and your in my favorite hobby shop in magnolia nj!!! small world!

Good information, I really glad to see you back doing videos on a regular basis. By the way thank you for all your help in finding the Haze gray paint set when I was there several months ago. keep up the good work.😁

Great info to know

Wow I used to shop at AAA. when I lived in NJ.

Me: ok this guy has a nice neutral accent voice Him: WUUDER 😳

Great tips Jack,thanks for sharing them

Any suggestions for what Canadians should use to replace Tamiya?

Very informative!!

Great Segment Jack!!!!

How do they add the fine color detail to the etched parts?

Nice series and, impressive method process and patience

you forgot the most important part , how to glue the pieces to one another without getting glue all over or into the gauges on the clear glass ? That is what I want to see his technique you use on gluing these pieces together because in this video you showed me what I already know except for the gluing part of your technique hope you understand I'm not trying to be rude or sarcastic I'm just curious how you do a nice clean glue joint without getting it all over thank you

Thanks for the tips on tools

One of the most useful tools I've found is a mini guillotine - I made my own from alloy extrusions - it uses heavy duty single sided razor blades. I think Master Cut and Proops do a small plastic version.

I would like a bit more info on the silicone brushes for applying filler. I went on the website. What type is recomencded? There were medium tip, and hard tip. currently out od stock but I will add to my wish list.

In either this or the previous video I would have added some clamps but beyond that, good advice.

Very good information. Thanks for sharing.

Good informative video. I’m a retired dentist. Many of my old instruments and lab tools come in handy for model making. My grandfather was a tool and die maker. I have a lot of his stuff too. Some of it is over 100 years old. It’s a nice remembrance of him when I use his tools on my modeling projects.

Question: Have you ever heard of using automotive "spot putty" as a model filler?

Thank you for the info. The silicone brushes and the putty are a big help thank you.

Cool tools. 🛠

My brother and I built that Gemini in late 60 's .

Alright...... questionS! 1) Do you need to Prepare the painted surface? For example: the tank, after you paint the tank, does it need a "coat", a varnish coat? If so, what type of varnish...should it be compatible with the paint? Or, No coat is required. 2) Do you need to Add a "coat" After you apply the 'Oil Brusher'? 3) Does this work on different paints Without a "coat"?? Thanks for showing this product and its usage.

now if only this stuff was IN STOCK! And they are, just not when I look for them...

Mig Ammo tax-fraud/rip-off kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXjJgqKgp62BbK8

I want to start doing models. I'm older at 60 so I would do better with mid to large scale. Where would be the best places to shop online? I am looking for retro, old models, including 50's, 60's 70's and pop culture models like maybe Batman, Partridge Family type of stuff. Thank you.

Great review! I've never used Tru-Color before so your tutorial was wonderful. Thank You!

Great video, this should address a lot of questions fro new model builders. Have a great week!

I had to buy all my tools over again after many many years away from the hobby. You had everything I needed and then some. I live in North Pole Alaska and got everything in good order and am very happy with your company and services. Very happy indeed. Thank you.

The best video I’ve seen on what’s needed when starting out. Direct and to the point

Great information. Thanks! Eric👍

Great video and presentation

My cousin and I used to build model cars. We both had toolboxes with all of the paints, glue, etc. We would get the car models (AMT) from the local pharmacy. Those are such good memories.

I am 65. When I tried building a glue kit, I always had trouble getting the real small parts off the molded stick frame. The part would always brake or they were missing. But I still enjoyed trying to build them. By the way, does testers still make the glue with a strong oder? I heard the gle that is safer for kids doesn't hold well. I am going to buy a kit and paint and glue and go for it again. I bought my kits for $1. Now they are $40.

The Novus 2 system will help prevent panic attacks with new and old clear pieces. You restore 50 year old clear parts back to new if they have been bouncing around in a sealed kit for that long. Tip: Remove the masks before the paint dries to prevent pulling up paint from a poorly laid mask part (Happens to all of us). Great video!

One of the best recomendations for new modellers in my opinion would be to go buy anything that you can outside the hobby store, especially sandpaper. (Actually thinking of buying sandpaper at a hobby store almost makes me burst out laughing at how stupid this idea is.)Most of the time the prices are a few times higher than if you would buy it somewhere else. Even the modelling companies do this. For example an Italeri hobby knife costs around 10-12$ and the exact same knife in the exact same box only without the branding I bought in a supermarket for around 4$. It doesn’t look like much at first but it really can add up overtime. Tweezers as well, the pointed ones can sometes be very expensive, but if you look on some makeup alleys you can find those for under a dollar. Yes they’ll be pink or whatever but does it make any difference really if they work the same?

Xwow!!! Es una belleza. Una verdadera obra de arte tanto el modelo como el acabado de pintura imprimacion y el equipamiento de luces una maravilla felicidades, un muy buen trabajo, yo soy fanatico a morir de battlestar galactica y tambien quiero hacer uno de ese modelo gracias por compartir para tener un punto de referencia 👍✌️👌😀

Should I paint the parts before I take them off of the plastic stem or should I wait and paint them after I put them together

I have been building scale model's for some 50 years by no means am I a Master, I do so like learning new and existing things, abd you Sir are one of my go to guys ! But um well I mean please stop the music in you back ground. It's so very difficult to pay attention in full to you! I sometimes have to back up the video to ketchup with you, I do so love being a student of your teaching's ! Your friend and most interested student TJ PS Thank you for your post!!!

Great video

I don't understand the appeal of a "quick build" or even "snap together" model. The build is everything, if anything, I want to make it last as long as possible.

Cheers you didn’t talk sht just clear explanation TY

Returning to model building after several years of not building. Really have become focused on the Tamiya kits. Is it still recommended to wash the part sprues in soap and water before building or painting? Haven't done this before years ago on older models, but this is the first time trying a Tamiya kit. Any feedback from the experts is appreciated.

I've been redesigning model car kits since the late 70s

Your a Sage, yoda, awsome

Fkn el, wow, what a shop.

One of the things I have seen recommended when cutting parts off the sprue tree is to cut the attachment a short distance away from the part, leaving a moderately-sized nub attached to the part, until the part is completely free of the sprue, then the remaining nubs are cut off flush to the part. This minimizes stress on the part, which will reduce the chances of breaking delicate parts that have several attachment points, like a wiring harness for a radial engine.

How come you go from “WE finished the paint on this………” to “so what I’M doing now is…..”? Is there someone helping off camera? Also some of your replies to comments you’ve said “WE recommend using….”