They have so many benefits to the local environment but to be fair that could be said for any tree.

It will structurally last for decades but I've got lots of information about active life, cleaning etc. etc. on the Q&A page of the FilterPro site here: filterpro.co.uk/qa-24-w.asp It will take a very long time to read through all the Q&A's but the lifespan / cleaning is in the top third of the page.

Unfortunately that is the action of a company which has lost their way. All every end user wants is a good quality filter which makes the water perfect (the holy grail).

Just like me - yes, it is ugly but it will work (when upgraded).

Good one - just keep experimenting until you get something close to perfection.

No worries, I still have this detector and it it the one I take on holiday to find properly valuable tresure under the sea.

Anything which is fully waterproof and will punch deep is good.

I'd always recommend the Biohome Ultimate as a filter media since in the 30+ years I've been involved in the trade it has been the one which has yielded the best results. Basically as long as you use the recommended amount for the volume of the tank and stocking situation it will deliver perfect water quality - it's the closest to Nature. As long as you use a simple dechlorinator whioch will make the water safe for life (e.g. API stress coat) and not something which messes with the food bacteria needs (e.g. seachem prime) there's no reason why a well set up tank / filter wouldn't be capable of achieving a full cycle (naturally reduced nitrate).

It could be simply the placing of the intake / outlet of the filter. Have them both on the same side and the air injected into the tank will rise up before it gets drawn into the intake - I made a video on this which shows how flow and air moves around a tank here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpetk4hjep2Meqs

@pondguru I will check the video and work on it thank you dear🙏🙏🙏🙏

Thanks for the order and best of luck with the tank.

Is this a question?

@ yes with all choices it’s a bit confusing

@@Kendez. Basically as long as you avoid something which claims to 'remove / bind / detoxify' the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate you can't go wrong. Prime starves bacteria by messing with the food it needs and Aqua Essential is the API version of Prime. Therefore I'd always recommend a normal water dechlorinator (e.g. Stress Coat and API Tap Safe) since they simply make the water safe for life without messing with the bacteria population. If you want to achieve a full cycle (natural reduction in itrate) through filtration stick to a normal dechlorinator, suitably sized filtration and a sensible manitenance schedule.

The 207 will be borderline - I'd 100% say go with the 307 and use a spray bar to diffuse the flow. If you add a flow control tap on the outlet side you can reduce the flow but there should be no need since the actual flow is only around half what the box says it is once you get the filter all set up and placed under the tank.

Thank you I'll be ordering some biohome ultimate later

@@matthewfieldson2032 No worries and best of luck with the tank. As long as you're using a normal dechlorinator (e.g. API stress coat) which doesn't starve the bacteria you should easily get a full natral cycle regardless of how heavily stocked the tank is since each tray will hold around 1kg of media giving to approx. 2kg per 100 litres once the substrate and decor are considered.

It would be this one - they were really strong: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHyQgKiVrNNmldk However, from what people have said in the comments the magnets on this Sicce filter are OK when the filter is under the water.

I'm glad you found the video useful - thanks for watching.

Yes, this is just a general demonstration and I mention about any structure and plants altering, diverting and slowing the flow down later in the video.

You will get approx. 2.5kg of marine biogravel into the L Juwel filter.

@ thank you for the response..so that’s 250 liters..unfortunately not enough for the Juwel Rio 350 😔

@@timwaagmeester1987 Maybe not for a full cycle on a marine tank but any live rock you add into the tank will help out. If you have a marine tank of 350 litres I'm surprised you haven't cut the internal filter out and gone with a big canister filter but provided that the stock isn't too heavy and you have a decent amount of live rock you could still achieve a full cycle with your set up.

@@pondguru I am still in the research phase and want to have everything sorted out before I purchase the tank etc. my initial preference was to use 1 (or preferably 2) Oase Biomaster 850 thermo with 5 kilos of biohome marine per filter. However, this was not recommended by the store staff because the hoses become hard due to the salt water?

@@timwaagmeester1987 Some hoses will naturally harden over time but can be replaced with more flexible hoses. With warm water flowing through them they should remain flexible for a few years at least. It is always best to keep hoses out of bright light as that will make the natural hardening process faster and black hoses are less likely to go hard after a few years.

Yes, you can do it either way - whatever way suits you. Having a booster filled with media is always what I recommend for when the main filter is a Fluval 05,06,07 series since that one has a cartridge of foams and quite small trays for media.

I'm glad you found the video useful and best of luck if you choose to make such a shelter. Willow is perfect for such a situation and to be fair the wood I used was from managed willow trees which produce a nation of long straight lengths to work with. Apologies that the video in this link is long but I made a different type of shelter using only natural materials here which you may find useful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKu6oaeGab5-kNk

Nice one - I'm glad the video helped and thanks for watching. Best of luck with the tank.

I should have detailed that the differences include higher flow, ability to stuff twice the amount of matrix in there, and quieter operation.

@@5ervalkat192 That sounds good and hopefully you have been lucky enouygh to get a decent grade of pumice ('matrix') for the filter since the quality is vary variable from batch to batch.

So you are saying the batches of Seachem Matrix varies? I do hope I got a decent batch!

@@5ervalkat192 Yes, of course it varies since it is just a low grade (cheap) pumice. How seachem convince people that this media is anything special is a mystery to me, lol I'm guessing that a lot of people 'trust the science'. However, in seachem's defence I have to say that some of the additives they do are genuinely good - for example Discis Trace, Malawi Salt, and some of the plant additives are really good. It's a real shame that their flagship products (prime which starves the bacteria and forces users to buy another product called stability and 'matrix' which is a cheap, low quality pumice rock are trojan horses). If you have a low grade pumice there is no way to ever give a 'surface area' calculation since every piece is different. I'd love to go back to the late 1800's when Science was proper Science instead of all this 'influencer' driven nonsense.

No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful - thanks for watching.

That's not a channel I've heard of - please don't tell me that there are two 'experts' who don't understand filtration...

I haven't made any ponds (other then my own) for a decade or so as I work online now from home. Feel free to send me an email on [email protected] and I will send you recommended landscapers based on what you want andn where you are - there are very few people I'd recommend for pond building so knowing roughly what you want and where you are will enable me to recommend someone no worries.

I got that from Kockney Koi and it comes in 1m lengths.

@pondguru thank you 👍

Ultimately the placement of the wave maker will depend on what sort of structure you have in the tank and you may have to experiment with that until you get all the muck being swept into the intake of the canister filter. The goal is to get all the muck being swept into the intake of the filter. Ideally the CO2 outlet would be near the outlet of the canister filter so that the CO2 is distributed well through the tank.

@ my structure is predominately driftwood and dragon stone (all below water line) running centre of tank lengthwise leaving long swim run/room front and rear of tank (75g). So I’m guessing the wave maker should flow over top of structure to have water ‘bounce back’ along front and rear of tank to clear any dead zones and push the muck towards filter intake (which bottoms out +/- 1/2” above substrate)…..can’t say it enough…..GREAT CHANNEL….stay well

@@garage-guy207 (my other channel) That sounds good to me and if it's not quite right just tweak it until it works perfectly for you.

I'm glad you found the video useful - thanks for watching.

No worries and I'm glad that you found the video useful - I just can't believe that nobody with an aquarium related channel has made a video like this since it is a very easy way to demonstrate water flow.

@@pondguru Dude, believe me, I'm doing my project and I downloaded a lot of photos, a lot of high-end aquariums using an outlet on each side, or at the back, one on the left and one on the right.

@@sylvio1966 Mostly having an inlet on one side and outlet on the other side is the wrong way to go but that's how most companies and KZbin videos will advise setting the filter up - that is because they have lazily copied something from Google. I always like to see a proper cyclical flow through the tank and give any air which is spat out by the filter a chance to rise up before it is drawn into the intake. That really reduces the potential air-locks in an external filter and it improves the filtration. In truth there is no 100% correct way to set up a tank since it depends on how many filters you have and how the structure inside the tank is built up since any structures inside the tank will affect the water flow. However, the goal should always be to have the water flowing as far as it can before being drawn into the intake.

Good one - if you're happy with that then that's the best set up for you. I make the videos with a full cycle in mind (not half a job) so if you haven't got 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 0 nitrate it may be worth contemplating a change - however, if you have perfect water quality from your set up then you don't need to change anything. Clarity has no bearing on health but when you've got clarity and a perfect cycle you have everything.

No worries and I'm glad you found the video useful as I make the videos to help.

No worries - I may not get everything perfect in these videos but I try to at the very least show how water flows through them and where to put the foams and media. Thanks for watching and appreciating the video.

Just experiment with it - make the pipes long enough for all options and try each set up for a day or two so you can see where the muck gathers or is swept to. As soon as you introduce any plants or structure into the tank the water flow will be very different to what was demonstrated here.

Thanks and good video!

I don't sell any media which is pre-seeded with bacteria or 'matured' since it matures so fast and it is much more convenient to keep the media dry for shipping. However, I have considered placing some media into the gel balls and selling it as 'pre-seeded' - but there isn't much demand for that. When there is a demand I will do that but in truth as soon as the media goes into a system with the gel balls it's pretty much seeded and ready for processing fish waste / growing the bacteria population.

@@pondguru it matures so fast, how fast?🤔

@@altops4490 For the first part of the cycle (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite) it should take 2-3 weeks and for the last part (0 nitrate) it should take 4-6 months. That is assuming that enough media is used for the volume of tank and stocking situation and that you don't use something like seachem prime which messes with the food bacteria need. All you need is a simple dechlorinator (e.g. API stress coat) to ensure that the water is safe for life and that the bacteria population can grow unhindered.

@@pondguru Marine version bought for 40 gallon reef tank with 2 damsels in it now. 2lbs of media in the hob.

@@altops4490 Is that UK or US gallons? For marine use the recommendation is 2kg of media per 100 litres (4.4 lb per 26 US gallons / 4.4 lb per 22 UK gallons) to achieve a full cycle (natural reduction in nitrate)

That is very disappointing to hear that the classic range is also made in China. Eheim seem to be hell-bent on destroying their legacy and brand. I would have loved to see the original owner of Eheim live until he was 150 years old because since his death the new owners of Eheim have been on a course of self-destruction.

I did one ages ago - it is number 10 in this series: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6OyopmOfJehgpI The FX5 / FX6 full upgrade kit is one of the most popular kits I've got on the FilterPro site: www.filterpro.co.uk ('Filter Kits' page).

@@pondguru thanks so much

Nice one and I'm glad that the videos have helped. Best of luck with the tank(s).

That doesn't surprise me since many of the Chinese filters are sold by different companies in different territories.