Ewww I just saw this, proud to call you, my brother

I Know This Was 4 Years Ago…I Have This Camera..How Did You Do That..Set Up And Software I Mean..And Appreciate It..Merry Christmas❤️🙏🏻🌲

Love to stargaze. 🤗

Thanks for the video.

KKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

What does is it matter when your home to show us the gear

Am just getting aquianted with SDR. I am close to working on decoding a signal. Just getting my feet wet.

Dusty: "What was it _like?"_ Jo: "It was windy." Dusty: "Windy... That's intense..."

Crazzzzzzzy!!

Looks a bit breezy

It's funny to me how I shot so much video but none of what I got seems to convey what it was actually like to live through it. So many times leading up to the peak, there would be a huge gust where it was clear that the winds were approaching 100mph, and many times while I stood in the porch or the front entryway, a gust would surge up and suddenly jerk me forward or shove me backward like the hand of some invisible god. As the peak approached, gusts became so strong I became afraid to even go out to the porch and trying to look out the front door became literally impossible as the door would either be ripped out of my hand forward into the storm or shove me back suddenly so hard I was afraid it might break my arm between the door and frame. Then ultimately it was just impossible to even open it for the incredible force pushing against the outside surface. As Ian began to move past our location, winds had shifted to the East and the house was battered by incredibly high winds and a fog of white, horizontal rain. Debris of all kinds blew in from across the street, and many times there were sudden loud bangs as things hit the front of the house. All I could really do is peek out a window now and then and hope it would end soon, but that took I think at least four hours. Nothing to do but sit down, get up, pace the house, look out a window, think "If any of these windows break omg...", sit down, lie down, listen to the house groaning all around me, get back up and repeat. It was, uh, rather unsettling. All my friends I've spoken to that have been in Florida most or all of their lives agreed; this was one FUCK of a storm. As it was happening I thought, "Now I understand how you know you're in a deadly disaster: If you look at it and think, "If I go out there, I'm dead." Then congratulations, you win an "I Survived _____________" t-shirt. 🤣

Sounds of nature, a little pruning going on, no disaster here! Thanks for the slice of life.

Also, Jewish Space Lasers®. 🤣

Great curation of an amazing event. Thank you.

Really enjoyed it! Thank you!

Based on their linear flight paths, steady angular velocities and apparent arc sizes, these appear to me to be airliners (jet aircraft). Are they different in this video clip than what you normally see?

Still a tosser

Thank you both. There will always be more as long as I can provide it. The Sky Cam started life as a simple experiment, and wasn't really all that at first. But now, with the right lens and the right settings, it is a constant parade of the cosmically strange. It's my pleasure to share it with the world. 🙂 And SIR ROB, is it ever nice to see you! It's been so long I honestly thought you might have left the world. I'm ok. Just like 3.6 Roentgen, not great not terrible, lol. I've so often wondered where you are and if you're ok. I hope the world and life are treating you well.

this is cool asf , hope to see more

Looking for anomalies in the dark skies way into the night always intrigued me, even when I was very young. I love looking for weird things everywhere. Seeing them makes me wonder what all we are missing out on. Keep looking around everywhere! There's a lot to "see". Hope you are well.

Looks like it hit something that contained a vast amount of a flammable material. Perhaps a large gas tank or something.

I'm obsessed with the brown anoles in my area and have been trying to think of ways to record them like this. Also I tried to hunt them with a pellet gun once and it was a bad idea.

Washing machines and cannibalism! Picked up a RTL-SDR a couple of weeks back and I'm obsessed. You offer some great tips that I'll be putting to use - thank you!

Mine has been super bad. My sinuses. Lol

Also notice the complete and total eventual breakdown of SDR Console, lol. I do love the program but sometimes it throws an epic hissy ultimately with a spectactular crash. First it started seizing up, then it lost all the receiver markers, then it just plain went blank on the OBS side. Still, it's nice to see CB coming back to life for Cycle 25. 🙂

Yay! another SDR Nerd,, like me.

What programming language was it made in?:

I read the description but I was curious what you could tell me about this. I really have no clue what im watching here.

I would say those para-sailers are taking way too many risks with their low swoops just above the ground. If the thrill worth it after the third of fourth pass! The FPV thing is very cool. I never got into that, mostly pattern flying with nitro-methanol engines that only last about ten minutes of fuel.

great work!!

You called it. I also thought a lot about it a decade ago and I knew it was going to get bad ....but I never thought we would see a time where one could get on eBay and for five bucks get a green laser claiming to be 5mw, that’s actually putting out 30mw of green and over 100mw of invisible IR. And that’s the dirt cheap ones that are under five dollars. 😂 spend a little more and it gets more dangerous by orders of magnitude. And now that they just released the 1watt green diode‘s this past year that are capable of one white in a self-contained little bitty package which doesn’t require the DPSS hardware… Give it another 5 to 10 years and those will probably be $5 or $10 in a finished pointer. Which is insane. I built a few lasers this past year utilizing A few different new green diode’s. I’ve pushed them past a Watt and most of them that I have seen Built by others…can easily reach 1.2 W according to what diode you’re using. I made a really nice and overkill thermal management systems for them .....so I could probably push them even further. But I really don’t have time to think of that stuff much anymore but I really do love it

I’ve spent what seems like a lifetime searching KZbin for scintillating and gamma spectroscopy related stuff… not to mention photonics optics and laser stuff.And I’ve never seen a single video of yours or your channel pop up. Which is strange because I found some pretty obscure stuff… But I happened upon a comment of yours on an Nile blue video and saw the high powered laser diode’s in your pic…. and since I’m an optics and photonics nerd also…. figured I would check out your profile. Hopefully you’ll come back to it and maybe make some updated videos on what you’ve been messing with? I’ve got a pretty nice optic lab hidden away in the small corner of my electronics lab. I do electronics metrology related work for a living, sure is nice being self-employed and owning my own equipment. but the optics and gamma related stuff is just a hobby. I can pretty much re-calibrate and repair any piece of test equipment, because anybody can color within the lines and follow the steps in a service manual. I’m nowhere near smart enough to actually contribute to the Studies of gamma or optical black magic And even though I have a lot of nice professional equipment for those two hobbies… All of its been purchased from government and education auctions for pennies on the dollar. I’ll never forget the first time I stumbled upon the FAP-80 modules on eBay. Some of which were pulled out of regular use but some had never even been used. And they can bring as little as $30-$50 …. It was insane to me having access to 40 Watts of pure optical output power for that price!!! I’ve got close to 2 kilowatts of laser output power power in my lab at the moment. Nothing super massive by it’s self but it adds up quick when you can find super powerful stuff really cheap Sure is hell is a golden age for incredible equipment at basement bottom dollar prices! 😁 it would blow your mind if you saw some of the massive gigantic scintillating apparatuses that I’ve scored off eBay and other auction sites just because people had no idea what they were. Pretty sure I’ve got one of the biggest nal(Tl) Based detectors that’s ever been made (other than one time custom pieces or something like that crazy). I also find very exotic and ridiculously high end centiliters and detector a raise from time to time… Here’s a decent example… ran across a radical scintillating astray, I think it was something under $100 each, which included over 100 individual small scintillator array packages. Utilizing a very exotic Crystals, and Cutting Edge SIPM (silican photo multiplier tubes) It was From some really obscure imaging equipment involved with very high resolution medical imaging. And for other things that require very precise and high resolution imaging. And it was only a few years old, it came with the multiple boards full of the mini scintillator detectors, and all of the control/mounting circuitry. I was stunned when I happened across it. Because it was not described as anything other than “strange circuitboard“ or something like that If you troll ebay pretty regularly, you’ll run across all kinds of things that are described very badly along the lines of “ circuit board module control board“, And maybe if they got lucky the list a few identifying part numbers they found on the board. Which many times will still keep it hidden from most interested buyers. Specially when you’re talking about equipment in the realm of scintillating, and other high sensitivity back ground/area monitors. Replacement boards for x-ray machines and things like that are pretty easy to fine because there are so many common variations. But the more obscure and high in the equipment… The more likely it is that some boob just toss it on eBay for a few bucks. And thank God for that! Hope to see you do some more Austin Condit on your channel and hope you’re enjoying whatever it is you study these days

Nice shot!

Nice. Would be great if you could overlay and arrow or circle on the object you are describing. On a couple of your clips I could not find what you were talking about (the moth for example).

This reminds me of my childhood, my dad and brother and I playing with the shortwave radio/HAM bands just to see what was out there. The nights when we had big atmosphere storms and the TV signals would duct across from midwest USA were special.

This is perfect background for my rats to watch overnight 😍

My new bodyguard ❤️

Sexy… 😘

Nice bro; I’m born under the perseids, on the 16th. Always a good show.

Cheeky breeki

And yes, if you look closely you'll see a tiny speck of light moving along through the starfield just below where the meteorite crossed. This was shot at 5:20AM, which is prime time for satellite visibility. No doubt, that's a polar orbiter making a cameo appearance in just the right place at just the right time. :-)

Details on the system and camera are as follows: The DVR used is a 12 channel AHD/TVI/CVI unit marketed as "HDView" but is in fact a mass produced unit identifying itself as ED8208H5-F. You get a lot further looking that up than you do any HDView bs which just has you running in circles in an informational void, lol. The software for it is CMS 3.4.5.81130, which may well be as up to date as anyone will ever see again. It's decent software for what it is, and far as I know there's no alternative, so there it is. It lets you run, view and modify _nearly_ everything the DVR is capable of from a PC anywhere in the world as long as you know what you're doing with it, and even lets you download all the recordings it makes freely. For mobile devices, there's SuperLive Plus which is equally impressive in its own unique ways and likewise apparently the only option. The camera I use is the venerable, cheap-a**, Chinese to f*** and back IMX327 N5090-AF-V4 board camera available on Ali Express for a mere $25 each, lens, cables and all. For the purposes of this video, I did an unusual thing and went with the available 16mm thread lens in stylish 4mm FL. These lenses have a crazy claimed F/0.95 ratio, which translates to big big light gathering, and I wanted to pit it against my usual 2.8mm CS lenses just to see how well it stacked up. Not bad.Excellent light power, very nice low distortion images, and still cheap as dirt, just not as stunningly wide field as the 2.8mm CS obviously. It's all about what you're after. The settings on the cam are important, and here are the ones that matter if you're hunting feeble specks of light moving through the stars: Sense-Up should be enabled and set to x4 or x6. This results in shutter speeds of 7fps or 5fps, respectively, which translates to about 8th or 9th magnitude reach with reasonable object motion. You can go with faster, but you'll miss out on the really cool stuff, IMHO. You can go a lot more aggressive with the shutter override if you like, up to a full two seconds exposure, but bear in mind you will pretty much lose all proper motion and you become reduced to a slideshow view. If that's fine with you, then go for it as you'll get some really impressive meteor and "UFO" trails, but you'll also skip out on motion capture because the DVR needs a few frames to work with and at best you'll get like... one... On the other hand, you'll be able to do some very impressive timelapse work for the price. Again, it's whatever you're wanting to accomplish. :-) 2D noise reduction in my experience does really nothing for it, so I turn it off. 3d noise reduction is pure magic with these cameras and should be set at low or mid, never max. Max will make every moving object leave a trail from hell. Low will keep a fair bit of noise. Mid is a nice compromise. Turning this setting to off will result in very strong noise in the images, which is why I don't do that. It essentially renders the camera useless for anything but high shutter speeds and very bright objects. I wouldn't do that even for an epic meteor shower with a lot of bright ones. I'd still go Sense Up x2 at least and 3d Noise Reduction on middle. Deep in the special settings is one for gamma, and it's important to mess with it. Too high and your sky will always come out very gray. Too low and you'll lose faint objects to darkness. Just right and your night sky will look like a night sky without being too dark or too bright, and even the faintest objects will stand out nicely. Oh, and don't turn on backlight compensation. At best it will do nothing for you, and at worst it will lock you out of settings you need in order to go as deep sky as the camera will allow. Double-oh. Set the AGC no higher than 12 and no lower than 8. The sweet spot for star-cam work seems to be about 11. Upward of that gets noisier and noisier and really doesn't seem to be of benefit, and below that and you just don't get that extra push over the cliff. “Why don’t you make ten a little louder? Make that the top number and make that a little louder?” These go to eleven. ;-) For motion detection on the DVR to auto-catch meteorite streaks and even satellite passes, I ramped the sensitivity, believe it or not, up all the way to 8. I expected this would fill the DVR up with recordings of noise but I was surprised to find it wasn't so. On a clear night with dark skies, I got about say 3 recordings that I didn't see anything in out of 10. The other seven were a mixed bag of genuine sky events and low flying birds and bugs, but a surprising amount were excellent captures of meteorites and plane/sat passes. It triggered on events I really would not have expected it to, but of course if you're struggling to see a very faint satellite, odds are it will as well and will miss it. Meteorites did somewhat better and I successfully captured some surprisingly faint ones. You'll of course get to see what all it can do when I do the how-to video on the system. For now, know that this video segment was in fact auto-captured, the trigger event being the bright plane or satellite seen first in the video. I guestimate it to be a roughly 4th magnitude object moving quite slowly in the sky. A second trigger event just past the middle of the clip kept it going for an additional time and was almost surely the bright "Flash" at 1:31. The combined movement of the two satellites in view at that time may account for the additional runtime above the usual 30 seconds timeout I have set that DVR channel to.

This is a good one for getting a "sleepyhead" out of bed in the morning!!!

You, SIR, are a wealth of SDR knowledge!!!!!!!! This is a GREAT video!!! Thank you for making it!

Gel is bad for them!

Great video! Did you use the camera with built-in ISP or the RAW model?

Great stuff! What's the FOV with this setup? I'd like to try this with my samyang 35mm f1.4 ef mount. I want to capture satellites in a wide FOV, and I spotted a few in this video.

Here we go: Nozzle Diameter: .40mm Extrusion Multiplier: 0.99 <-- works for me well but your mileage may vary Extrusion Width: Auto Retract and Wipe, both turned on, haven't messed with Coast, and good God no Restart Distance, PETG is oozy enough without encouraging it. Also no Vertical Lift on Retracts. Retraction Speed: 20mm/sec Wipe Distance: 5mm First Layer Height and Width: Both 150%. This is mostly for ABS+, PETG sticks like fuck so probably way more forgiving here. First Layer Speed: 20%, nice n slow to help it grind in well.This is especially important for little details like a foot, paw, circular pad, whatever, to keep them from jerking / peeling off from excessive speed on that first layer. Note I'm using 0.3mm layer heights. I do mostly industrial part fabrication so pretty takes a backseat to fast - n - ugly. Outline direction: Usually out to in is best for looks but bridging can lose its sanity because STUPID program will try to bridge in thin air. For those problems, use in to out. Start Points: Optimized is almost always the best. Random will make zits or pits like noise all over the model, and it's hard to find perfect settings to cancel it out. At least with optimized you know where your line will end up. You can see it in the live preview even. I do one skirt line at 10mm separation to get the plastic flowing before it hits the actual model base layer. No raft, totally unnecessary. No Prime Pillar, no Ooze Shield. Have never messed with those options. With infill I *always* do like a 20 - 25% fill, 100% width, 60% overlap, Internal and External both Rectilinear for all my plastics. I like to do 4 - 5 layers top, bottom and sides so the pattern always follows the shape except for flat topped things like project boxes. I always keep the angle parallel to the shape of the model for neatness of appearance. Print Every Infill Angle On Every Layer only matters if the final model needs some real internal strength. Otherwise it's just a scaffold for the upper layers. No solid diaphragms, it's overkill. Support: 25%, no Inflation Distance, 1 Base Layer, Combine Support Every 1 Layers, Support Type Normal, Support Pillar Resolution 1mm, Max Overhang Angle 45 but I can push it a little harder if I need to, like to 60 degrees. Horizontal Offset 0.3mm, 1 layer vertical separation on upper and lower. This can get problematic because PETG is really oozy, so too much threading and your support WILL bond to the model at least to some degree. You might need to do some tests to see if you need to fudge this up a bit, but it's a good start. Lately I've been doing crossed layers at 0 and 90 degrees to make a sort of cell support. This way no direction of print can spaghetti into the gaps in the support material. Temps! Last time I printed with PETG, I did a mass workout on Benchy boats with ESun Clear PETG to see what level of "perfect" I could accomplish. Believe it or not I was printing beautifully (almost glass like) at 250C extruder temp. Had to keep the speeds down or it started to warp, but yeah, very nice looking results. Bed temp I *always* start at base layer 120C and then falling to 110C after first layer, but PETG is forgivable down to about 90C or even less, I find, before it wants to separate from the bed during print. Cooling: I've done a LOT of work on this setting and frankly most of my improvements come down to this and dynamic speed adjustment. Check this magic out: Cooling fan speed: 0 to start, 30% at layer 3 and up. Increase fan speed for layers less below 10 seconds. Maximum cooling speed 75% but lately I've been toying with full 100%. Bridging fan speed override also 75%. On my G-code, I have the printer start about 0.65 above the bed height. Just never let it press too hard or it might want to strip the filament from backpressure. Never too high either or it might not get good adherence. I like my first layer to have an extrude width of about 0.90mm - 1mm, more or less. Speeds! Go too fast with this stuff and small parts will heatsoak and get really glassy but also torque around with the extruder movement, and warp of course, like bad. You can always tell you're heatsoaking if you can see the model parts actually flex as the extruder moves across their surfaces. NEVER let it go to this point or you will get warp. The solution is to slow it down and give the printed plastic time to cool down. Fan helps, but it's only part of the answer. SO for that, I have this magic: Default Printing Speed: 60mm/sec. Outline Underspeed: 60%. Solid fill underspeed: 60%. Support structure underspeed: 60%. X/Y Axis movement speed: 80mm/sec. Z-Axis movement speed: 16mm/sec. *Adust printing speed for layers below 30 seconds, allow speed reductions down to 2%.* Sounds criminally slow, I know, but it's actually very perfectly dynamic. Having such a high number for the seconds smooths it out nicely between large areas and small areas, and creates a really nice gradient of speeds across the model. This gets me accurate, no warp results from the largest areas down to tiny stuff like 2mm diameter points, and no heat soaking. The slow movement of the extruder on tiny features creates a near-glass appearance out of transparent PETG, it's impressive. Meanwhile, large areas zoom along with no problems at full speed. Took me years to figure that one out, and really it's pretty simple as long as you understand how and why the material does what it does. Bridging: I'm still working on this a bit but here's what I have so far and it works well enough. Unsupported area threshold, 5mm. Extra inflation distance, 5mm. Bridging extrusion multiplier, 90%. Bridging speed multiplier, 50%. Fixed bridging infill angle is dependent on the model, totally. You need to preview the print and see what bs S3D is going to get up to and make settings accordingly. Apply bridging settings to perimeters HELL YES. If you don't, it'll play like your outermost lines don't matter and make them ugly on overhangs. This setting treats them as all important, which they are. It's not perfect but it definitely helps. Advanced: External thin wall type: Perimeters only. Internal thin wall type: Gap fill. This is model dependent at times but most things benefit from this approach, especially for industrial part fabrication where structural integrity really matters. Single Extrusion Length: 1mm. Minimum Printing Width: 5%.Maximum Printing Width: 200%. Endpoint Extension Distance, 20%. This is important for stuff like screw holes, mounting posts, complex part shapes, etc. The machine will attempt to fill any holes that develop between the print lines. Ooze Control Behavior: Oh boy, here we go. PETG is oozy like model cement, and loves to string and make hair. This was my most up to date attempt to reign it in: Only retract when crossing open spaces, check. Force retraction between layers, check. Minimum travel for retraction: Off. Perform retraction during wipe movement, check. Only wipe extruder for outer-most perimeters... I have this turned on but I'm thinking I should turn it off. PETG oozes forever and ever, no amount of "stop that!" is too much, lol. Avoid crossing outline for travel movements, HELL YES. This forces the printer to travel only where it has already printed, thus wiping that nozzle the ENTIRE way, and eliminating threading almost entirely because it happens INSIDE the model structure, at least when it can be avoided. I have this set to detour factor of 3, but I don't think there's anything such as too high for it. Yep and there it is. I know you wanted just the file, and I'm forcing you to do actual work of entry, but that's because there's no "slap a fix on it" fix that will work across every printer and plastic. The only thing that works universally is an operator that understands what the printer is doing and why it is doing it, and for that you need to put in the work and experience it directly. I've given you a good start here, but there's a lot of room for improvement. FDM 3d printing is as much a discipline as anything I know. It'll keep you pulling your hair out for a very, very long time, lol. Also, I wanted EVERYONE to have access to what I've learned, so consider it a helping hand to all who come this way.

@Joe Cobos Ok, so, sorry I took a while to get back to you but I'd been using ESun ABS+ for a long time on a printer that was slowly breaking down and only recently did I do an overhaul on it and start printing heavily again, which led to a lot of trying to make "perfect" settings, which led to a lot of me asking myself "Why did I do that??" about my existing settings. Fighting filament is one thing. Fighting filament and a dying printer is just wayyyyy beyond complicated and will lead you to some truly stellar fuckups in settings, lol. Please bear in mind, the following settings aren't perfect even for me. I've come to understand that perfect prints come down to not just ideal settings, but also how the model is layed out, and thus how S3D goes at building the layers. In some cases it's brilliant, others it is just SOOOOO stupid, and that stuff matters a lot. Before I lay it out for you, I want to share the biggest secret about PETG - it is springy and likes to overheat inside the extruder. Keep your machine open-air, keep a bed temp of about 110 (where the plastic is very flexible on the bed - glass transition is everything), and always make sure that extruder has access to cool room air. What jams up PETG is that it soaks heat up the filament where it can flex too much and bend up like spaghetti, causing an insta-jam in the hobbed gear. Once I understood that, PETG became easy for me to print. Also note that I haven't eliminated threading in these settings. I don't use PETG as often as I once did, and when I do I've become comfortable with just blowtorching threads off the models rather than blow a ton of time working out some kind of magical thread-free settings file, which may or may not exist. Oh and also, I now print on sugar-coated aluminum plate. It works fine with ABS+, but buddy it's like Krazy Glue with PETG. Breaks free on its own once the bed temp drops to about 50C, but up above that man you just can't move the stuff AT ALL. I use 50/50 corn syrup in water, applied by rubbing about a half teaspoon onto the bed like lotion at 40C heat. It's awesome. Just mist a bit of water on it post-print, rub it around again, and good to go for another print, and another, and another ad nauseam.

👍THANX INTERESTED IN CAPTURING EAVESDROPPERS/ELECTRONIC HARASSERS AND THIER TECHNOLOGIES ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A FIRST TIME SETUP FOR A FIRST TIMER ?👍