It was incredibly fast and they made changes to try and slow it down in the afternoon. I'm not sure i want to be driving that fast on a stock suspension honestly.

Thank you for reminding me to register for that. And I hope we have better surface on the 12th, or at least run 2nd.

Minus the one gravel spot I kept hitting repeatedly, I drove a pretty safe line, but I have to wonder how much these stock dampers will take.

I think they were some some random machine shop on amazon. They weren't super expensive but finding a hubcentric spacer with the right bore for my aftermarket wheels in 5mm was difficult.

I have no issues with oil pressure at autocross but I haven't taken it on a prolonged high G sweeper you'd see at a track. My built block runs 10w40 per vendor spec so not sure if that will help or hurt.

I had my block assembled by IAG so I didn't use anything. I believe that they used RTV

Thanks, it has been a decent daily driver so far. I didn't realize the base model had shittier seats than the premium I test drove, so that and the meh shifter are kind of bummers. I did get a cobb shifter upgrade package so I will see how that goes. And yeah it was cool to see all the different cars that you wouldn't think would rally. The beetle was my favorite and I think the neon was way too safe a driver to be driving a dodge.

No this is a fa20 which does not come in any wrx.

This is a 17+ manual block. I'm not sure if something changed

That is the goal. I found a bunch of supercharger install videos I took and never made anything out of too.

6.4NM according to the manual

i mean maybe but I have the built engine in and it is tuned and 1 autocross on it + some backroads and i've been fine so far.

That is actually how i pulled it and put it in. I didnt want to leave it on my hoist because the 2 holes i used were pretty janky. It probably is over 400lbs with that flywheel on, so it is beefy too.

IAG built the block for me. So I don't know.

no, the engine mounts would be block that

YES, YOU CAN

@@devonswindell9735how?

Just got the car back from the shop because the built block wasnt making oil pressure. So now I just need to break it in and tune it

I haven't tracked it yet but it was recommended to me.

If i could go back i would have made the door much larger. It is a real pain in the ass to empty

From counterspace garage. It didn't take long. I can't remember so I'm going to say a week?

Thank you!

It is alive and moving under its own power now

Why can't you? The two studs going from the pan through the trans can be taken out allowing you to drop it with the engine in the car.

Thanks, it will look even better once i swap everything/put the rest on and it runs. I was originally quoted at 6-8 weeks and it took 13 so I've been going nuts not driving

Well as you can see from this video my engine exploded before I got it in. Currently IAG is building an open deck 12.5:1 stage 2 block with build heads for me. After that I have the JRSC oil cooler, koyorad raditator, radium dual catch cans, with ace350 headers into jdl ultra quiet and HKS hi performance single exit, a dw300 pump and ID1050x injectors. Still waiting on the block, IAG said it will ship no later than July 5th. I already paid Zach from csg to tune it before my engine blew up. It wont be dynoed but similar setups with a c30 made 370 wheel on e60 iirc. I will eventually probably need to CD009 swap it, and put a lexus 3.7 FD in, and get at least 275 square setup too

Yes it is it's own thing. It has locations where the front timing cover bolt to it. So you have to remove the oil pan and the timing cover to get it off. I believe I have a video of me removing both too.

yes and that's also where nearly 5L of oil exited my engine

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 That means it likely spit out a rocker arm. If you loose a rocker arm the rocker pivot pops out. When the rocker pivot comes out you loose all oil pressure since the pivot sits in an oil galley, which is what caused the motor to lock up. Same thing happened to me.

@@thegroundhurts makes sense i forgot that is a thing. dont they sell rocker retainers for this engine?

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 One company out of Australia does. Can't remember the company name. Your car being newer then 13' is less prone to this issue, but it is still possible.

@@thegroundhurts its in the exact area that the intake for the back passenger side cylinder is. makes sense with the power loss then bang too. thankfully the dealership told me to bring it in

it was a pain in the fucking ass to take off. i needed a chisel and hammer then a pry bar and ended up bending the corner

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 That's what an oil pan separator is for...

i just checked and they must have renamed it. it is the 2.5" catted and high flow resonated front pipe

If you are in a limited class where you cant strip the car and there is no weight minimum this is where it is at. this is a 24lb save over stock and will be one of your biggest savers besides removing the spare. it is more than swapping to a lithium battery. with that said it is kind of tinny with the stock front pipe. and if you move to a non resed one it sound like the tinmans ass. the 60s + jdl ultra quiet is where it is at imo. also here is the list of weights www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42555 and here was my jdl install kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGndm6SgpM6Imtk. i also have a few autocross videos with and with out both them installed if you want to hear the sounds

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 hey thanks for the reply. I just realized that you are "local" to me. I'm an NNJR autocrosser and sometimes head on over to NEPA. I run in STX. I just checked out some of your other Vids. Not sure but the exhaust sounds a little raspy in the video. I ended up not ordering it, went another route not as lightweight. I have a dual resonated front pipe, UEL header and aftermarket Overpipe. I don't daily drive it but I hate raspy sounded exhaust systems. Maybe one day we'll be at the same event and I can hear it in person. Really hard to decide over KZbin videos. I went with the Tanabe(Revel) Concept G, which is 22lbs. Good savings over the stock exhaust. I already had the weight thread on-hand when trying to decide. It's also about $400 less than the Tomei. But as you know.. Weight is important, the Tomei is definitely intriguing. Thanks again for the response.

@@rtatis i have a shitty camera and my cellphone mount rattle. i honestly dont know how to get good sound quality, but the 60s is kind of tinny. it was 1/2 priced used so i couldnt pass it up. sadly i ripped it off going over a parking stop sideways so now i have an hks single exit. i kind of want to go xsa next year asusming the dealership unfuck my car after making it throw codes when they fixed an oil leak

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 getting good audio that is representative of the actual way it sounds is hard IMO. I always prefer to try and listen to it in person. You ever come to NNJR events? How are you liking the HKS?

@@rtatis jersey is way out of the way. the closes i did was 2 philly events and got blown out of the water. there are actually 2 hks hipower single exits and i ordered the wrong one, the one with a 17lb muffler... it sounds fine tho and if i go xsa weight doesnt matter because its a 2700lb min

In that video it is an ACE350 into JDL ultra quiet res+hiflow cat into tomei 60s. i had an autocross accident where i ripped the exit off my tomei so now i have a HKS hipower single exit instead

What part of the shock are they near? mine aren't even remotely close to my tein coilovers. I did have to reclock the way i had my sway bar because the end of it almost touched my lower control arm. so now i have even more space.

ive actually gone back and to do that and still some times lose them. I just buy a bunch of spares and check every now and then. some people have said use hotlock on the forums but i ordered a bottle that came solidified so that went out the window.

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 that sucks. The hardware that comes with the headers is kind of a joke. What's wrong with a set of bolts, washers and nuts? I'm gonna use the ACE headers hardware but will replace it with home depot metric hardware if it loosens. Literally about to do the install right now, wish me luck.

@@Synthwave89 Yeah i replaced all the studs with nuts and bolts and double nutted the 1 unpaired stud on the passenger side because that one kept falling out

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 Dude I just flashed the base tune and took her for a whirl. Holy smokes, what a difference. With the engine+ tranny mounts, the throttle response feels SIGNIFICANTLY better. Rev matching and heel toe is much easier now, the power comes early and doesn't feel wimpy at the low-mid revs. I just need to retighten everything, hammer the skid plate, and install the suspension upgrades in a week or two. Thanks for the video, it was SUPER useful. cheers

MEET ME IN THE TWISTIES

it is ace350 with PLM 2.5" high flow cat and tomei 60s and yes it sounds like pissed off bees with trumpets. I am waiting for my JDL ultra quiet FP to ship. It should really cut down on the harshness. The 2.5" FP is what did it, with a stock FP and the rest the same it was rather tame

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 how’s it been since?

I literally showed it around 30 seconds. it is a flipped over harbor freight dolly

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 no need to be a douche, man.

I did this the same time as adding a 2.5" front pipe and trans and subframe bushing inserts. I'm pretty sure all added nvh is from those and not the engine mounts.

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 are there added clearance? can I install 3 inches overpipe front pipe using this mount?

@@wew0002 i believe they are identical to the OEM mounts so you wouldn't get any clearance. i run ace headers so the merge pipe is MASSIVE and to fit it in you need to undo the passenger side mount and jack the engine up. you might need to do this with the 3" over pipe. sorry i couldn't give an answer.

@@propagandaofthebrz7710 I have yet to do the engine mounts, but I can confirm that the trans bushings I installed (Whiteline and Perrin inserts) increase NVH quite a bit. For a daily I'm not sure I would recommend. I've only had them in for a week but I'm not sure if I'll keep both of them in.

I have only run it with ace350 and the silencer. With that said stock vs ace with stock catback isn't that much of a difference. I now have a full 2.5" exhaust with a silencer but as soon as the autocross season starts I will be driving without the silencer in. If i can get a reading of that it should be simple math from there. Take the unsilenced dB - the oem catback with ace350, then you take that number and add it to stock and that should be ballpark what just a unsilienced 60s is. I tomei's site claims 95dB on it unsilenced and 93 dB with it. Your miles may vary tho

I turned it on the first time without anything and shut it right off. Cold start was extremely loud. Tomei rates it at 95dB without either silencer. If you put both silencers in, it is very close to stock, but i wouldn't recommend it. It feels really weird to drive and I suspect it is pulling timing under load.