As long as you have the correct timing tools it is pretty straight forward

This particular one came in with a severe engine rattle and the oil light on due to the strainer being blocked with rubber, if I'm honest its one of the worst ones we have done!

@@aaronsautos Thank you for the response! So what you did was vvt gear replacement + strainer cleanup, and engine runs fine now?

I see alot of them tbf

@@jordanharvey2684 …you must work in a scrap yard😄😄😄

We have a 2015 focus 100.000 miles mow covered it’s been the most reliable car we have ever owned. I have looked after it and had it properly serviced.

😂

You forgot to mention the cost of replacing the wet belt. Its typically a minimum of £1000 to replace which on an economy car like a 2013 Ford Fiesta is insanity. The car is barely worth £3000 as it is. By the next belt change it will be uneconomical to repair especially if other stuff needs doing. These Ecoboom motors are throw away engines. The wet belt combines the worst aspects of a timing belt and the worst aspects of a timing chain together to give you the ultimate ticking time bomb that doesn't even tick. People who've fully serviced their cars have been screwed over by Ford and these shit engines. If you haven't been screwed over count yourselves very lucky.

@@gravemind6536 all rubber cam belts need to be replaced at some point.even dry cam belts cost around 500 pound .don’t really understand how you think these engines should never need any maintenance. Most cars are scraped at 13 years old in the uk anyway.my advice is if you have a 2013 fiesta run it in to the ground it doesn’t owe you anything.if you have a 6 to 8 year old fiesta get the belts changed at around 60 thousand miles. my local specialist will do it for 900 quid.

Yes, is completely pointless to be fair Tells you nothing

@@derekfleming3095 exactly! I don't understand why people upload useless videos on KZbin if none can learn something from it. I have been in the car repairing industry since 2008 and studied car mechanic for 3 years I am an professional mechanic and currently working in a bmw dealership. I on my free time I love to watch some professionals mechanic work, but I see lots of useless videos all useful parts are cutted and time lapse or just pictures and annoying background music.

@@DidiLeeReco anyone who has done this job knows it’s an absolute nightmare due to terrible design by ford. I served my time in the 80’s and you could change a belt on a Pinto or CVH in your lunch hour and still have time for your sannies

@@DidiLeeReco if you like watching other mechanics, watch this guy - top guy bazmeredith

@@derekfleming3095 thanks I will.

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Those 2.0 TDI units regularly hit 400k or more miles but yeah focus on the outlier. Also a failed oil pump only causes the engine to die if the idiot behind the wheel continues driving despite the oil pressure light coming on.

😂😂

I would if I were you while its accessible.

You’d be mad not to. Also ensure they clean out the oil pick up in the sump

It’s the costs you need to think about too !

From 120000 km. Actually I changed mine i20 2011 petrol at 64000 km to maintain better engine life and health although recommended is 120000 km.

@@zenets8818 mine is a 2017 Active model diesel 1100cc. Does the same 120000km recommendation applies?

Not a massive issue but we have done a few now, regular servicing reduces the chance of premature wear

These engines always shake because they're 3 cylinders

So the only way to stop this turd exploding is excessive maintaince costs. new belt every 55-60k miles which is over £1000 and oil changes every 5k-6k miles when on cars not designed like shit its every 10k miles. I'll stick to my Toyota Auris and its 1.2T with its 10k oil intervals and a timing chain which likely will never need replacing but even if it did it would take far longer for it to need it than the welt belt and the cost would still be similiar.

😂

Its the worst engine of the current century so far, it has to go down as one of the most unreliable, poorly designed and utterly shit engines ever. Doesn't even have the redemption of good fuel economy or performance.+

Yep, buy a Toyota or Mazda. Ford is junk now.

@@rogerbarrett9920 not just ford, many European manufacturers Buy Japanese

Is there way to check the oil pickup?

@@gigapig23 2 ways. One quite easy and one that takes some hours and for which you also need a high temperature sealant to apply on the oil pan before re-installing. The easy way is to use a borescope through the drain plug of the oil pan after draining the oil and inspect the pickup for clogging. The harder way would be to take down the oil pan and inspect the oil pickup in a better way and also be able to clean it, but this requires to also take down the catalytic converter which wasn't too hard for me, except that you must wiggle it downwards between the engine and radiator after taking out all it's bolts (one 10mm is hidden on the left side of the cat) and rotate it as necessary in order to take it out and there are two 15mm nuts that connect the end pipe of the cat to the rest of the exhaust and those 2 nuts can be a pain in the but to get down if they are very rusty. I had to cut mine down with a small angled grinder, take the cat down, hammer out the 2 original pressed bolts and buy 2 comparable bolts and nuts in order to mount it back and that was it. If you are lucky and manage to get those 2 rusty nuts out without cutting them down, you should definitely apply some copper or some good quality very high temp grease on them when you mount them back in order to not have them so hard to unscrew the next time again. This harder way took me a couple of hours (I didn't rush with it) from start to finish but I had indeed took out some rubber stuff (small pieces of belt) that was partially blocking the oil pickup. Don't forget to buy some oil pan resistant sealant and apply on the engine side of the pan (I did this way) or if it's easier, apply it on the pan itself after cleaning (but carefully, not touch the applied seal accidentally when moving to install it) before putting the pan back or you'll have oil leaks from the pan. Although I wrote a lot of details, the harder way is what I prefer anyway because I have much better results. Cheers! Ford goes further!

@@Maverickf22flyer Thank you for such a detailed reply, I really appreciate it and it will surely help many people.

@@gigapig23 Your welcome man! It's only these tricks that matter, this engine is remarkably durable otherwise. Some have tuned these 1.0L Ecoboosts to more than 200hp (not just 182) and still run. That tells something.

​@@Maverickf22flyeryou are on drugs. mate...the engine is a piece of shit...if option 1 was easier,why did you take the sump off then...ive seen enough engines fail now,and some with only 60 thou on them...psa 3 cylinders are shit as well

I agree its a great engine and really smooth and if you drive it like a normal person its fuel efficient. But if you get on the highway and have to overtake someone and drive more then 120 -130 kmh it sucks petrol. I notice there is a small window of fuel efficient and just sucking petrol :D. But yeah if you service it every year and stick to the specific castrol oil you have a great little engine.

😂

My suzuki swift 1.2 does that and its got a 152,000 miles on the clock never needed a spanner

😂😂

Have you replaced your welt belt yet? Enjoy the 4 digit sting whilst people with traditonal cam belts pay 30% of what you pay for a belt and then use timing chain people can laugh even harder as we literally just do servicing.

@@gravemind6536 On engines that use 20% more, or greater fuel, so what are the "savings" over the 100K miles belt life?

We advise replacing the belts at 80,000 miles or 8 years due to the amount of failures we have seen, you shouldn’t need an oil pump unless you have had the oil light staying on.

@@aaronsautos thank you so much I'll get it done

We do the Citroen belts as well

​@aaronsautos do you do the honda 1.0 vtec wetbelt?

We replaced the faulty pulley and full wetbelt kit and it ran perfectly

​@@aaronsautosAnd hopefully used the oil with the right Ford specification this time?

Maintenance is key

Maintenance is not the key. The wet belt sheds rubber . The rubber blocks up the oil pickup starves the engine of oil and we get Ecoboom. If only they had used a duplex chain it would have been a great engine.....

That's also maintenence, altough a stupid one bjt still, you just have to do some clean up. You make a habit of removing the oil sump every 3 oil changes and clean the debris from it and from the oil pickup line.

Maintenance is key, but unneccesary.

Which pulley was broken. Left or right