Hello Jack, nice to see you.

You're welcome, thanks for watching.

The first set I used was what Comp calls their LS Retrofit. They were very noisy. I have video posted of them running in Nov 2021. Then I replaced those with the Comp Evolution series that had just come out, installed in Mar 2022. They were less noisy than the LS Retrofit. I posted video of the Evolutions running right after installation too. I had high hopes for them and ran them over a year hoping they would settle down. But in the end they were still too noisy to suit me, so I replaced them with GM stock lifters which are quieter. No, the Evolution lifters did not exactly fail. They will run if you don't mind the noise. But they are unacceptably noisy to me, and others who heard them in person didn't like how they sounded either. Comp has admitted they had noise problems with their LS Retrofit lifters and they claim the Evolutions have solved those problems. I think they need to do a little better.

Yes, acetone. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Lots of acetone. I cut small cotton rags, about handkerchief size and do small areas at a time because the acetone evaporates fast. Go over it once, then get a clean rag and clean it twice. I talked to Eastwood tech support and acetone is the solvent they recommend. Degreasing is very important, but metal prep is not really needed in my opinion. A good scuff and clean thoroughly with acetone is what I've been doing and I've been getting good results on clean metal. I've coated over rusty metal with it too. I sandblast and soak in Evaporust where possible, and on some things I just remove as much rust as possible by abrasion and solvent clean. The product is made to work over existing rust. Basically the instructions are descale as much as possible and thoroughly solvent clean before application. I have a steering box that was solid rust, I descaled it with rotary power wire brush and solvent cleaned it, then brush applied the product. It's been 4 years and still looks good. I sandblasted a heavily rusted rear end housing and coated it, in a year I saw speckles of rust coming thru what looked like porosity. I saw this on another item as well. For some reason a 2nd coat was needed. I just cleaned and scuffed with Scotchbright pad and applied a 2nd coat. No problems after that. I don't know but maybe the sandblast surface had something to do with that porosity. If in doubt, apply 2 coats. Regarding 2nd coats or topcoats with other materials, unless the 1st coat is only hours old, you will need to scuff before recoating or it will not stick. The instructions say topcoat adhesion is good for up to 48 hrs without sanding but that is not true. I know because I tried it. The topcoat blew off with an air hose. Once that stuff is fully cured you can topcoat it but it must be well scuffed. I have done so successfully with a thorough scuff. As an experiment I have a trailer hitch that I wanted to be black, so I coated it with the Eastwood Platinum and then I shot it with gloss black rattle can Rustoleum right away while the Eastwood was still kinda wet. It worked. The hitch has been on the road for years now and looks great. Another thing, the Dutch Boy plastic container will release the hardened unused material so easily that you can clean it all out of there and reuse the container multiple times. You can blow it loose with compressed air and scrape away any remaining spots. I have several of those containers in a rotation and have put gallons of that stuff thru them. They last a long time.

@@onemoremisfit awesome. Thanks for the info! One last question for you: what thinner do you use when you spray it? The website recommends xylene, however that shit is horribly hazardous and isn’t even legal to sell in my state.

@@brandonlure2738 They specify xylene for the Eastwood product and for POR 15 too, and that's the only thing I use. Also on the can of xylene the label will say things like "thins anti-rust paints, porch paints, epoxies, enamels". There is probably a good chemical reason why xylene is specified. If you can't get it then I'd say researching for a substitute is in order. I once accidentally threw a few ounces of lacquer thinner into a batch I was spraying because I picked up the wrong can of solvent. It did not affect the results, but the batch was still mostly thinned with xylene. If you can't find info on a substitute then you might have to experiment to see for yourself what happens when you use another solvent. Also I'm sure you realize when you spray that stuff you have to use the proper type of respirator. And don't have any other object you care about anywhere near the spray work area because the overspray of that stuff will get on everything around permanently.

@@onemoremisfit spoke with them earlier today. They said an alternative to xylene is their Universal urethane reducer (50104zp). This stuff is much more expensive than xylene though. Wonder if it’s just their version of another basic thinning product

Yes, I do get my share of those.

It still looks acceptable but it is beginning to fade at this time, after about 2 years in the weather. I will probably make another video on it this summer to show how it is holding up. The product maker claims it is good for 2 years and I can say that claim is true in my experience. There's another good thing I like about it, that is it fades with grace. It's not peeling or anything like that, it is slowly weathering off and allowing the original sun fading and zebra striping of the plastic to show thru. Again, it is just getting noticeable when looked at up close but still looks 80-90% OK from a distance. And that fading is mostly on the bridge, sail and tonneau covers. The running board cladding is holding up quite well even with my foot traffic all over it. I will probably let it fade and wear off some more this year and re-apply next year. My experience with this product overall so far has been good and I would recommend it. A couple things I would not recommend: #1 do not "restore" the plastic by re-melting the surface with heat. This has been debunked, the re-melt does not restore the plastic. It only looks like it works temporarily but it really does even more damage to the plastic in the long run and that damage is permanent. #2 NEVER paint the cladding or coat it with bed liner or anything else. The sanding prep that must be done will permanently deface the plastic, and then the coating will eventually peel off anyway because that type of plastic just won't allow proper adhesion, and then you will be left with junk cladding. I wish Dorman or somebody would make reproduction cladding but as far as I know they only make the "spoiler" piece for the top edge of the tailgate and nothing else. So for now you have to take good care of the cladding you have.

@@onemoremisfit yeah I would say mine is acceptable after a year as well but it's a 2002 that was kept in a garage until I bought it a few years ago. So it wasn't badly faded to begin with. It definitely doesn't look new but it also doesn't look bad. I think the trick is to just keep up with moisturizing it lol

@@synapticburn Different topic, how are the brake and fuel lines on your 2002? The OEM fuel & brake lines from the factory are poor quality. My brake lines are all replaced with stainless steel now, the OEM lines rusted away quick. The fuel line set on mine was almost gone but still not leaking, until I handled it to remove it and it all crumbled apart, lol. I replaced that with a new OEM line set that I coated with something much tougher than the weak paint it comes with. Dorman makes stainless brake lines for the Avalanche, and they are making stainless fuel lines for some applications but not for the Avalanche last time I checked. That fuel line set is vulnerable so if yours is not rusted you should shoot & slather some anti corrosion goo on every inch of it before it's too late. It's a tough job to replace it. I replaced mine on a bare frame with the cab off and I could see what a nightmare it would have been on an assembled truck. It routes along the frame rail underneath the ABS module (right below the driver seat), so to replace it the brake lines have to come all apart too.

@@onemoremisfit Man I live in Houston. No cars rust here ever. There's not even a speck of surface rust. It's only one day every few years where they would even need to salt the roads, but they don't even do it. Then. It's one of the upsides to living in this hot ass city lol

@@synapticburn I have a friend who moved to TX 16 years ago, tells me all about it. Winter is nice, summer is hell, cars never rust, but the interior roasts like a solar oven and the sun is brutal to anything parked outdoors. If the Gtechniq C4 held up longer than 2 years down there I'd be impressed. My friend in TX told me one broiling day he wore cheap plastic frame sunglasses and his eyes started burning. He realized the plastic frames were off-gassing from the heat and had to take them off. In TX you need professional grade sunglasses, cheap ones won't do no matter what ZZ Top said, lol. I'm on a gravel road and they put corrosive liquid on it for dust control during summer so I get hit all year long. I had to take extreme measures for protection when I restored my truck. Even plain mud will promote rust if you let it cake on and never wash it off, but I doubt they have a lot of mud down there.

You're right but that's not the only reason. Yes it's been a good car for me and I like it but I can also understand it ain't everybody else's idea of a keeper. The other reason is I have only 2 choices for transportation: either can I buy something new or keep what I've got. I don't want anything new. Everybody has this holy grail idea that they will find a clean no rust low miles southern owned well maintained used but not abused version of what they want, and for the right price. Sure you will ... Then if you go for a "restored" version of your holy grail car you pay top dollar for a flipper special with a pretty paint job and plenty of textured undercoat to hide its secrets. As for me I have chosen to stick with the sure thing because I know better. Even if I found my elusive dream holy grail used car it will have to come all apart and be restored anyway, because I guarantee it is slowly rotting away somewhere inside that you can't see. I'm the original owner of this car, I know everywhere this car has been and now I'm in the process of knowing ALL it's secrets. I like driving something I know intimately. And even if I bought something new it would have to come all apart to be properly rust protected anyway, or else it will be gone in 10 years. This in addition to car loan payments and owning something impossible for me to service that will by design become too expensive to own when the warranty expires. I also have a '68 Camaro on my to-do list. I don't foresee any criticism on keeping that one, lol. But first I have to worry about transportation before the toys. Btw I've seen restorations of some pretty odd cars that I personally wouldn't have any use for, but once you've done some of this kind of work on your own stuff you can understand somebody else's odd choices and appreciate the work that goes into it.

@@onemoremisfit yeah I had a 1975 Chevy Dually with a crazy amount of rust and everybody in the family wonder what I was doing but I ended up patching in a lot of panels a lot of filler and flat black paint ended up selling it to somebody that needed it

I wonder if they made 60 deg fittings 4 years ago when I was putting this together, because if they did then I missed them in all the searching I was doing back then. Also saw many photos of guys using a pair of 90s with this takeoff, no photos of a 60 deg fitting being used. The photos were from a support guy when I contacted them for suggestions on plumbing for this takeoff, he searched them up and emailed them to me. I reckon I'll redo the whole thing when I'm all out of other stuff to do, lol.

Another oil preacher? Tell me how your scriptural citation is relevant.

@@onemoremisfit how a man takes criticism says a lot about his character.

@@MWilk098 I asked you how what you claim a letter on viscosity index label stands for is relevant. BTW I know what the letters and numbers on the viscosity index stand for. I've known this information for over 50 years. I know what base stock is. I know what polymer viscosity modifier additive is. I've seen the stuff in its pure state, it looked like rubber cement and had no lubricant properties in itself. I have some understanding of how viscosity modifiers interact with base stock and how multi-viscosity ratings are derived and for what purpose. I have some understanding of how multi-viscosity oils behave long term under forces such as pressure, shear, thermal cycling and severe heat. My late uncle founded, owned and operated a small company that made specialty industrial lubricants, and they also carried a line of automotive oils and greases. I happen to know a little bit about oil. Maybe you know more than I do and can teach me something, but you sure don't sound like it. Now you pivot to some lame online troll tier philosophical blurb. This is about lifters that don't run quiet. Look man, share a relevant experience, make a relevant point, ask a relevant question or GTFO. Spare me the obtuse online d1m-vv1tt3ry posing as wisdom.

That is not a spark plug boot, that rubber elbow is actually the OEM part that goes on the drain.

No breakage or failures but there were quality defects. One set of push rods is ~ .02" over length and the ends appear to be not hardened correctly because they show undue wear for the low hours they ran. Not using those anyway, I have written them off. Then there was one lifter in the LS Retrofit set that needed deburring on the OD turn, that set was the first set with really bad noise, I had to remove the burr myself, no big deal except it shows poor QC. That set was returned for refund and then I bought the Evolutions. The cam lobes and lifter rollers show very light scratches that won't catch a fingernail, very light, no undue wear. The camshaft itself runs well and does what I want in terms of performance, idle and drivability, no complaints on the cam.

The Comp Evolution series need a shorter push rod than the Comp LS Retrofit series or the stock GM. I experimented with 3 different lengths and shims under the rocker pedestal for exact preload. The push rods come in length increments of .05". By using shims I can split the difference in effective length between sets of push rods. Small changes in preload made no change in how they sound as long as they are inside the plunger range.

Yes they preached to me about oil. I've had straight 30w mineral base in it, 10w40 full synthetic in it, 10w30 semi synthetic in it, and now 5w30 full synthetic in it, and it sounds exactly the same with any oil, no difference. I'm done with the oil preaching. And I ain't putting (X)w50 in it because it has to be winter driven, so don't go there. We had -14F here a couple weeks ago. You can't use oil that thick here and expect to crank it over in that kind of cold. On the topic of oil heat, the engine has dual remote large can oil filters and a pretty good size oil cooler in front of the radiator, together those items reject a lot of heat. The oil in my engine is running cooler than any equivalent stock engine in a stock truck without those things. It is not really what I'd call a performance engine anyway, it is a bone stock bottom end and the engine runs fine. The problem is noisy lifters. I'm tired of excuses for noisy lifters and I've ruled out oil as the cause.

Brother you have a bad attitude towards someone who is honestly trying to help. And a 5w50 synthetic oil has the 5 winter weight. So I can conclude you don't know much about oil viscosity. Sorry I bothered trying to help

@@tonym6854 You are argumentative and I don't mind, I answered your arguments, now you're claiming victimhood over nothing. Knock it off. You apparently don't comprehend what you read. Go back and re read how I tried a wide spectrum of different oils already with no change in results, I have oil coolers etc. 5w50 is NOT appropriate for 14 flipping degrees below zero. Knock it off. You are not an oil expert telling me anything I don't already know. Knock it off. It is possible for an engine to have O/S lifter bores but that is extremely rare. I have a number of other good reasons to doubt that, the first good reason is there is no visible wear at all on the OD of the original lifters, the ones that Chevy originally built the engine with, the ones that ran quiet, and I still have them. Don't you think I'd be looking for something like that when I first took the engine apart? It's more likely that the new lifters from some manufacturers are being poorly made, there are others out there having the same problem, I have heard from some of them.

You stated that your engine is not performance oriented yet you are running a supercharger on an engine that wasn't built for this. Hmmm. Genius. Brother i am not in the victim hood. But maybe you should take a hard look at what you said. Honestly I don't believe that any of the noise you hear is detrimental. You have done a ton of unnecessary work for absolutely nothing. Did you think to run an oil analysis at any time to verify that the noisy alleged lifters were causing undue wear????

Also, it doesn't matter how many oil coolers you have. They will and I'm sure they do keep temperatures low. That is after the fact. Your oil can be heated to extremes in the block and cooling it afterwards will only help stop a more immediate damaging situation. Tell me your oil temps pre and post cooler. Because you've delved so far that you have surely checked. To think any 30 weight oil is ok is insane as its thinning to a 20w depending on base stock. A quality 5w40 or 50 would be absolutely fine in frigid temps as the 5w is the winter flow weight. The same as your 5w30. But you know this already because you have already dismissed any oil conversations because you have tried straight 30, 10w40, 5w30 ? Can't wait to watch your 4th lifter swap

I would ask the QC dept of the company that made them that crazy question. I'm supposed to be paying for something that has already been checked for quality before it is sold. I do believe there are better lifters out there but I only have one lifetime and I've already had 3 sets of lifters in one engine now.

No. The lifter bores in the block not the actual lifters. They could be worn and larger than original spec

The Whipple has fresh oil and it always growled like that from the day it was new, that growling sound comes from the straight-cut gears in it. I know a mild cam does not "need" link bar lifters, but who says I have to "need" something in order to have it? What does "need" have to do with bad lifters that won't run as quiet as they should? Is that supposed to be some kind of excuse for a bad product? Are the lifters just noisy because I didn't "need" them anyway? BTW the cam in the engine right now is Comp and it is very mild with .05" more lift at the valve than stock. I do not want a rough-idling cam like almost everybody else wants. I want the engine to idle smooth as stock at 550 rpm, and that's what it does. So I do like the Comp cam, but I will never use their lifters again.

Are you referencing hydraulic flat tappet or roller lifters?

These are rollers

@@chris_bjj123 yes I know, im just saying about standard hydraulic. If I bought a brand new roller cam from comp or isky I would still send it to Delta Cams for regrinding since the quality of comp and isky is below par these past couple of years, just my opinion

@@Spiritof_76 im just saying about standard hydraulic. If I bought a brand new roller cam from comp or isky I would still send it to Delta Cams for regrinding since the quality of comp and isky is below par these past couple of years, just my opinion

After changing lifters 2 more times the engine now has a set of stock GM lifters in it, and is much quieter. I have posted several other videos documenting my experience with this. Bottom line: I will never use Comp lifters again.

Mine has a new oil pump and there is 48 psi idling at 550 rpm with the oil fully hot. The cam profile is very mild, basically stock with .05" more lift at the valve than what the stock cam had. The springs are basic beehives, the whole valve train is new and I have experimented with 3 different push rod lengths that all fall within runnable range on the preload, they all sound the same. Maybe I will try a set of APA lifters next time the engine comes out for rebuild. I would still like to see/hear a video of new recently purchased Comp lifters running quiet if anybody out there has had that experience.

After having a local speed shop change out the stock 114k mile cam and valve train in my fun daily '04 C5 with an LS1, there was (more) valve train noise. The owner of the shop said because of the BTR stage 1 cam with .600 lift, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, Johnson slow leak lifters, etc., it sounds like the lifters are ticking, but they're not. Now the engine sounds like a sewing machine because of the aftermarket valve train. It took some getting used to because the car initially went in the shop to fix a lifter tick on cold start-up for a few minutes.

@@mlc7boosted You've got a lot more cam in yours than I have in mine. As I understand it when the cam profile is more aggressive it can result in a little more noise because the aggressive profile basically makes it harder for the hydraulic mechanism in the lifter to do the job of taking up the "lash" while following the lobe. So basically they are ticking. Saying it only sounds like they are ticking but they are not really ticking is kinda misleading. If you hear ticking, then ticking is what you have. But then there is the issue of lifters doing a shit job when they could be doing a better job. Sure, they can't be dead quiet but I think they could be a little quieter than they are. I think these lifters are ticking too damn easy, then when you complain they brush you off with excuses. Then there is the issue of the lifters sounding quiet when cold and getting noisy when hot. The cam profile does not cause that. All 3 sets of lifters I had in my engine were quiet when cold and noisy when hot. I think they are just making shit lifters these days.

I'm thinking 3inch side pipes with glass packs will fix these lifters. I think that I am glad that I sold my Silverado, kept the 454 Suburban and bought a Challenger to replace the Silverado. I hear the Dodges are having lifter problems too. I hope I get the 66 Fairlane going before the Challenger gets to ticking. Who currently makes Glasspack mufflers? I'm thinking about buying stock in a glass glasspack muffler manufacturer! Ya'll Take Care, John

Thanks, the foam pieces under the intake are in place.

Funny you mention alternator and water pump because both of those went bad and were replaced during the time I went thru 3 sets of lifters. And 4 different types of oil too, which I already talked about. And no, the alternator or water pump or tensioner (also new) aren't going to sound like that. It's the lifters. I have been doing this long enough to know. Take it from me. I will never use Comp Cams lifters again.

@@onemoremisfit That is weird because I have the same engine in my 2009 GMC sierra pick up and you can’t even hear it run at any temperature until the electric fan kicks on. I had a noise that developed in the front of the motor I changed the serpentine belt and Wala it was gone, the belt was old and brittle and needed to be replaced. As far as comp cam lifters go I had a Solid roller lifter cam and lifters from Comp in my 72 nova that required .016 and .018 valve lash and cross link bars And they still didn’t make that much grinding noise or even that much valve lash tappet noise.

Because he's mad bro... Literally psycho right here

It comes from bad lifters. I can tell by the way they are quiet when cold and slowly get noisy as the oil warms up. Also I can hear individual lifters making more noise than the rest, and each bank has one or two standing out from the rest. The link bars don't sound like that. Comp Cams engineers even admitted in their own KZbin video that they were having noise issues with their earlier series lifters in a discussion about how they claim that the new Evolution series totally solves the problem. I bought the Evolutions, they are noisy too. I will never buy them again.

I bought 2 sets of lifters from Comp Cams for this engine. The first set was their LS retrofit series, which is a link bar lifter. They were horribly noisy, worse than what you hear with the Evolutions in this video. I have older video on my channel of those running too. I returned the LS retrofit lifters for refund authorization. Then I ordered the Evolutions, which had just come out at the time, and I had to wait longer than 3 months to receive them. I ran the Evolutions about a year and gave them a fair chance. I tried to tell a Comp rep over the phone (His name was Wally Briton) that the Evolutions are also noisy, but he just argued with me and preached about using the right oil. I also had trouble with the refund he granted me on the LS retrofit lifters, for some reason it did not show up on my credit card. I called the cc and they said the problem was not on their end. I sent Wally about 5 or 6 emails and he never replied. The first correspondence I had with him was when he reached out to me via email and gave me his phone #, I spoke with him by phone and email several times. As far as could tell he was now ignoring my emails when I tried to tell him the refund didn't go thru. I finally called Comp and just talked to whomever I could get in customer service, some lady whose name I don't remember took my call and re-sent my refund, and it finally went thru. It looks like I'm stuck with the Evolutions. I will never buy Comp lifters again. If anybody else bought Comp lifters recently that aren't noisy, I'd like to hear a video of them running quiet.

@@onemoremisfit man that sounds like a shit show that you went through and that's unfortunate that you had to go through it. I have a few small businesses but I have to contact other businesses sometimes such as my cell phone carrier or credit card company or maybe even places like a Walmart or Amazon or whatever. I get so tired of how poorly ran many of the larger businesses are in our country and they just don't give a shit about their clients. Occasionally, I will run into one company that is better than others and there is actually one that sticks out in my mind that is actually a pretty good one that is one of our local cable companies named Midcontinent Cable but outside of them, I can't think of too many companies that are on my good list. The obvious problem that pretty much all of them have is that the majority of them have foreign speaking representatives that don't speak fluent enough English to be able to understand them well and they don't understand you well enough so then you have to repeat a lot of your issues with them over and over. That's if you even get somebody that you can speak with in the first place which is the problem with a lot of companies nowadays. There are many companies that it's really a pain in the ass to just to get to talk to an actual human to begin with. But then, even if you do, nothing ever gets done. You can ask to speak to a supervisor or manager but they will just tell you that they are either not available or busy or that they don't actually have one and that you aren't allowed to really speak with the manager at all. And this obviously sucks. I can't believe that Comp Cams actually tried to argue with you that these were not noisy and then it was about oil. Holy crap. You shouldn't have to worry about running that much of a specific oil that it's going to make them that noisy. Obviously there is a reason why they have different weights and types of oil for different types of engines. I'm not disputing that. But, it sounds like it's just an excuse to try to make it your fault instead of them acknowledging that they have a shitty part that they are putting out.

@@eldridge201 Everyone I spoke to at Comp was fluent in English and clearly not a foreigner. The first guy I contacted was Bryan Pitcher, and this was before I bought anything. Bryan's direct line was given to me by the engine builder who worked on my cylinder heads. I needed advice on cam selection, they said call Bryan, he'll help you out, and he did. Bryan recommended the cam for me and it is exactly what I wanted in terms of how the engine runs. It wasn't his fault the lifters were noisy. I can look at things from their side. These products are intended for people who know what they are doing and there are a lot of ways you can have bad results that are not the fault of the product. At first Bryan was talking like I didn't get the push rod length right, and in reality it is possible that incorrect length can be the cause of the noise. But after buying 3 sets of different length push rods, ruling out that possibility by trial & error, making video to document the results and sending it to Bryan, he said it looked like I needed to change the lifters. He said he would authorize the return and someone else would make the decision for any refund. So from there I dealt with other people. I did get a refund on the first set with some hassle and I didn't even try to get a refund on the second set because I just don't want to argue any more. Even if Comp sent me another free set I would not use them because there is way too much labor and out of pocket expense for gaskets, bolts etc that must be new any time you R&R the heads to even take another chance on them. I would buy another Comp cam but the bridge between me and Comp lifters is burned.

@@onemoremisfit I agree that there are many ways that you can screw things up when building an engine and have various things happen and sometimes only a matter of a small millimeter of a difference of something can totally change the dynamics and physics and clearance characteristics of the internal engine components which can result in catastrophic failure. I totally get all that. And so, that's why I said that I understand that a certain type of oil and weight has a different characteristic depending on the different type of engine as far as how it will run initially and also long-term and the effects that it can have on the overall wear of that engine. But, in this case, it sounds like you were doing your due diligence and did more than enough to try to remedy the situation and make sure that you have everything correct. And in the end, it sounds like you were the one that was trying to get blamed for the issues when it was simply a problem of a crappy part from comp cams. I understand that sometimes it gets frustrating having to try to get returns and refunds taken care of but in my opinion, if you pay for the product or service, you should get the refund even if you have to do it multiple times. Obviously, in this case, it sounds like the problem was resolved simply by putting new lifters in so even if they had to return your money three or four times, that's what they should have done. Obviously, it's your choice whether or not to pursue the additional refund that extra one or two more times so you can obviously do whatever you want. I'm just saying I wouldn't want to lose money especially when it wasn't my fault. And yes, you're obviously correct that it's not just the money in the lifters themselves. To redo the entire repair correctly, you should be replacing gaskets each time and initially you should be replacing bolts if they are a certain type of bolt that requires replacement so this all costs money. Not to mention changing oil again and things of that nature that also adds to the cost of everything. In the end, it's not even really the lifters that are the big cost involved. It's the stupid gaskets an extra fluids and lubricants and things of that nature as well as the stupid extra time that you had to spend doing the repair two or three or four more times that's completely unnecessary that gets costly.

About .06"

@@onemoremisfit I just put in a set of BTR Delphi ls7 lifters (L9H 6.2l) and on stock pushrods they are noisy on a cold engine, quiet once at temp. Stock pushrods now sit at 0.15 preload (felpro head gasket as well) which is too long. Have some 7.325 pushrods on the way which will give me 0.075 preload. Hoping that quiets them up on a cold start.

@@wally7856 Changing push rod length made no improvement for me. I tried 3 different lengths, and I also went to a length that was a little too long and shimmed it back by putting a .03" thick shim under the rocker pedestal, after which the engine would run normally, which proved I had the longest possible length the lifters would tolerate. If you are saying you have .15" preload, that is probably too long because I have found there is about a .12" range that the lifter plungers operate within. But if the push rods are little too long you will know it because the engine might start but will not run smooth at all. As long as the pushrod length falls within that .12" then range the exact length is irrelevant. If you have .15" preload and the engine still runs smooth then maybe the BTR lifters have longer range and you probably have the max length that they will still run with. You can try putting a shim under the rocker pedestal to change effective length without buying new pushrods. You have to make the shim yourself. Get a strip of .03" thick aluminum about 1" wide x about 16" long (I can't remember the exact dimensions), drill the holes and cut 2 notches with a hacksaw blade and small file. Putting the .03" shim in makes the effective length .03" shorter. Since the push rod lengths tend to come in .05" increments, the .03" shim will split the difference between two lengths. So right now I have a set of 7.35" pushrods in the engine with no shim, stock GM gasket, heads have been milled a little for a valve job, and they fall within the operating range and that's that. If the lifters are noisy it's because they are just not made right. Changing the push rod length slightly won't make them run different, at least not on my engine, and I know that from actually trying it. The lifters are supposed to work anywhere in that range, that's why they make the rocker mounts fixed with no adjustment. The exact push rod length should not matter. Changing the oil didn't matter for me either, I have tried 4 different types of oil now: Straight 30w mineral base, 0w-40 full synthetic, 10w-30 semi synthetic, and now 5w-30 full synthetic. All of them run the same. The issue is the lifters themselves, and for some reason it is hard to find good lifters these days. Personally I wish I had lifters that are a little noisy when cold and quiet when hot. I could live with that. Mine are quiet when cold and get noisier when hot.

@@onemoremisfit Thanks for your insight. My new 7.325" pushrods are already enroute so I'll probably go that way over the shims for now but will remember that for future use. The new pushrods should be stiffer then stock anyways. I think the Delphi lifters have about .2" of travel but I'll feel better getting the preload somewhere closer to the middle of the travel. I chose 0.075 instead of 0.1" as I live up north where temps can reach -40F. The thermal expansion difference between operating temp and -40F over 7.4" of aluminum is about 0.020" so I gave myself a little bit of room there for cold starts. Thanks again for sharing your experience.

@@wally7856 One more thing: I had head gasket leakage one time, the leak was at the top of the head at one of the coolant passages, and this was leaking coolant into the engine oil. To fix it I used Permatex spray copper sealer, this stuff is great, I have been using it for 40 years, never fails. The one time I put the gasket in dry I got burned. Never again. One thing you have to watch for, there are bad cans of it going around lately that spray gloppy. It should spray fine like spray paint, if it comes out like lumpy glue, throw it away and get another can. This happened to me. I got another can and it was fine. Put 2 nice even coats on and let it cure for a whole day. Once it is cured you can handle the gasket without smudging it, and the material keeps its tackiness indefinitely. Then there is one more thing, I put extra torque on the top row of small bolts. I use new GM TTY bolts every time and I do not reused them. The GM bolts all have a dab of locking compound on the threads. Do not put extra torque on the larger bolts, torque those by the book. But the small bolts on the top row need more torque. The book says 22 ft/lbs, this is not enough. I torque them first to 22, then again to 30 ft/lbs. Those bolts can take a lot more torque than that and with an iron block so can the threads. With an aluminum block you need to be more careful, but 22 ft/lbs aint enough, especially when there is compound on the bolt threads dragging it down and giving a false reading on the torque wrench. I would at least go 2 steps out to 25 ft/lbs on those smaller bolts to ensure a tight seal.

I was asking myself the very exact same question, why would he do that?

I know, I'm an idiot, but I'm the original owner of the car, grown attached to it, and came to a point where it's restore it or replace it. New cars are ridiculous. So here I go. I'm in IL so I can't just run down to FL and crawl junkyards there. I needed a piece of LH quarter panel skin on my Avalanche that I also restored, a tricky piece next to the fuel door, shaped like an upside-down shark fin. I looked at a FL junkyard online that had a clean Avalanche quarter they'd cut off and ship for $500. Then I found a rusty one in a yard near me, same year, rusted bad, but the spot I needed was clean enough and they were nice guys who cut the small section of skin I needed and gave it to me for $20, along with a couple other small items. They literally made no profit from me. So anyway, I intend to end up with a rot free Impala of my own in my own way, lol. I do have a '68 Camaro on my to-do list though ...

I had a flat hydraulic cam round off one lobe in a SBC about 40 years ago, but at least the lifters were quiet on installation. I did cam & lifter installs on SBCs and a BBC or 2, never had the whole set noisy out of the box like that. This situation took me by surprise, and I have since run into a number of others in comment threads having similar experience. I just took another short video last night of the stock GM lifters idling after returning home from a 1-hour drive. It's been close to 3 months of run time now and they have settled in to their pattern. They don't sound too bad. I will post the video soon, it's only 1 minute long.

There are all kinds of noises under the hood. Even the injector pulses can be heard and distinguished. There is also a growl from the straight cut gears in the supercharger, which is normal. There is alternator whine and noise from the A/C compressor, and of course the fan. The audio rendering from the recording device is good enough, I can hear everything on the video that my ears heard. The lifters are not hard to hear. If I take the recording device and get under the engine with it and hold it right up to the engine then yes you will hear a very isolated rendering of the valve train noise, but I'm only interested in a real world sample of what can be heard standing near the outside of the truck.

The stock GM takeoff has both pipes coming out straight forward. I'd like to see Earl's make a fitting at the correct angle to match up with the angle on their takeoff with it so it goes straight forward. There is no reason why not except maybe they don't feel like doing it.

@@onemoremisfit agreed I was referring to the size and shape earls made there’s. If they did the size of the stock GM they could have them at a better angle. I’m assuming that since they went bigger maybe better flow 🤷‍♂️ but not sure why they did the design they did.

@@Moore257The difference with the GM unit is it has hard pipe straight out of the takeoff, not threaded fittings, and it's made to go to the LH side tank of the radiator that has an intercooler for engine oil built into it. I had one of those on the truck for years. I modified it by cutting the hard pipe and transitioning to -AN hose fittings an running hose to an air cooler mounted in front of the radiator. I had to take it out because the steel hard pipes got rusty. Then I went to the Earl's takeoff. I don't think there is any difference in flow, the hard pipes on the GM unit were the same ID as what you get with the #10-AN, about 1/2".

I think you have a point there, if the car is late model and the urethane is still fresh then you might have a lot easier time pushing a solid tool thru it without breaking something. But everything I work on is decades old. The car in the video is a 2006 and the sealant is way too tough to push that tool thru it cold.

@onemoremisfit hey One, I was thinking of a full new hunk of gas/tig wire 32" long very flexible but "stiff" if u push it on the end. Comes with a small section flattened (stamped what it is) 316 308 or whatever welding material. Anyhow, cut off round w some dikes so end is flattened slightly (think mansionry drill bit) file so flats dont catch glass. Last cars we did was a 94 Thunderbird & 86 Merc Cougar (back about 2016 or so) his Dakota was a snap think we had it out, dressed the frame & back glued in about 40 minutes. Took longer cleaning off the OLD glue from the junkyard doner truck. The 86 Cougar was one we cut the headliner in (behind the rear view mirror). The weld wire works tons better first 3 cars we used the HF cable but like the snag u had would split we cut faster seemed "easier" till ya hit a snag. The MIG wire slices like butter vs the cable. I found the one person inside 1 person outside with sticks ( 1"x1/2" 24"long) cutoff w V notches inside guides quite well. Use about 3' of wire wrapped around the stick feed over the end. Just a single hole thru the glue pulled 360. By the 4th or 5th car we had gotten pretty good at it. The mig wire is pulled "saw-ish" with the 24 to 36" both pulling in the same direction but one guy pulling faster so it slices from "inside to outside" then switch. Maybe two "Saw Strokes" across the side & 3 saw strokes top/bottom. Then the junkyard jumped windshields prices from 25 or 30 bucks to like 125 so at that point cheaper to call safelite (tho thos windshields seem to be "cr a pp Ola" breaking way easier than Factory ones.)

@@markmatt9174 I will definitely try the mig wire next time because I have it on hand all the time. I have to always devise a way to work single handed because there is never a helper available on demand for me. Personally I would not use a junkyard windshield in most cases unless it's the only thing available because once you have a few years and 50 thousand miles on that glass the windshield wipers never work as well as when the glass was new. I pulled a good unbroken factory windshield out of that 2006 Impala of mine and I don't intend to reuse it because I remember how the wipers used to work when it was new. Maybe I'll see if somebody wants to give 50 bucks for it. A cheap used windshield is fine for a beater that got the glass broken and you just need to make it drivable but that isn't my situation.

@onemoremisfit I've found the factory ones to be best for chip/crack resistant however micro pits sand blast them over the decades. In may old rare or low numbers cars there is no choice, pay $1000 for a custom re-fit/make (often takes a large number of attempts to get them recut or form fitted.) Or takes months to get one in when ordered. I found a regular treatment of RainX