No sound check. The entire sound system plus lights were owned and operated by me alone. Everything you see in the video that is not a guitar or guitar amp is my gear, and the band wanted absolutely nothing to do with any of it. The way it always worked was I got to the venue early alone and worked like a dog single-handed for about 4 hours to get everything set up, the sound system, lights, and my drums. Then the rest of the band would come breezing in about a half hour before it was time to start and expect everything to be ready to go. You can't really do any sound system checking in a bar anyway. They don't want to hear a peep out of you until it's time to play. If you make something feed back while you're trying to dial in the monitors they will throw you out. They just expect you to set up in the corner and automatically sound great. Basically you can count on unrealistic expectations from everybody everywhere you go.

Thanks Jack.

I've gone thru several gallons a quart at a time over the last 5 years and it varies from batch to batch. It also depends on the humidity at the time you start using it, the less humidity it sees the longer it lasts. Generally I would not expect to have the remaining portion stay usable any longer than about 4 months after opening. It will skin over in the jar, and that skin in time will get hard and thick but you can still break thru and find liquid underneath. I have even punched a neat hole in the thick hard layer to dip a small brush and didn't even stir it and it still worked fine for some small job I had. As a rule don't buy anything more than you can use in one job and if you are able to use some of the remainder 4 months afterward you should consider that a bonus.

Didja get your car back yet? (go, pay 'em, bring it back ... eh?)

@@onemoremisfit😂😂That scene is great.. Not yet.. Windshield was just installed this weekend. So fingers crossed…Hopefully next couple weeks

I made out OK on that one panel that couldn't be obtained. I haven't forgotten who's been hooking me up with all the other parts! I'll be in touch.

Thanks Jack. I did all the same type of work on my truck and documented it with hundreds of still photos, but no video. This time around I decided to throw a few videos of this out there for whomever. No doubt there are a lot of guys with older cars they are attached to who might be curious for one regular slob's DIY perspective on how I fixed one up. Rust is public enemy #1 with govt running close 2nd lol.

I don't know what you mean by secondary crank pulley. The crank pulley on the engine and all the accessory pulleys on the engine remain stock. There are 3 pulleys that are part of the supercharger system, those are the pulley on the compressor itself and the 2 pulleys for the belt tensioner/idler. The tensioner is an off-the-shelf part from GM, the GM part # is 1005-5897, you can find this online or order it from a GM dealer (and probably pay more). The tensioner comes with a pulley mounted on the arm that is a Dayco part, mine has a # 00039 on it. The idler is also a Dayco pulley, the one I have on mine now is # 00086, but it is not the original one because I changed it, and I think it is larger than the original one, which may have been another #00039. But it fits and works fine because there is a sliding slotted adjustment on the idler pulley mount that lets you use a range of sizes as long as they fit in the provided space. So with the idler/ tensioner pulleys you can go with Dayco pulleys (available at any auto parts store) and as long as they match the ribs on your serpentine belt and the fit it the space on the supercharger mount bracket then they will work. The thing about mounting the tensioner and the idler pulley is there are a couple special pieces that enable those pulleys to bolt to the supercharger bracket, and as far as I can tell those parts come from Whipple. So if you are missing those parts you'll have to contact Whipple for help. The email for them is support@whipplesuperchargers dot com, (you'll need to correct the format) they have helped me out in the past, so I'm sure they can help you out. When it comes to the compressor pulley, if that is missing you'll have to contact Whipple for that pulley as far as I can tell. Whipple has told me they can rebuilt that whole compressor if I send it to them, and I know they have other parts, so they can probably get you the pulley too. Whipple can also give you Dayco part #s for the idler and tensioner pulleys if you need them. Also, the serpentine belt you will need is longer than stock, and it is an off-the-shelf belt that can be obtained at any auto parts store. The belt that came in the kit with mine is a Goodyear brand and the part # has worn off so I can't read it, but I'm sure Whipple can tell you what belt it is.

A lot of good info. Thank you.

Turns out theirs 1 belt and 2 belt kits. The 2nd belt kit you need a secondary crank pulley that bolts up to your original. That’s the kit I have. I don’t have the crank pulley and whipple says they discontinued that kit 20 yrs ago.

Thanks Jack. I have a GM replacement crate engine for this car too, and it's the last one GM made. The reason why it's the last one is because the part# was still good a couple years ago, so I ordered one. GM filled my order, then some bean counter noticed and said, " are we still making those??" Then they discontinued the part# for cost savings. Same with all those new structural body panels, most of them were not NOS, they were what GM called STO (stamp to order). I ordered almost everything I needed (couldn't get the last Item due to a GM quirk that P/N was already discontinued), they stamped them out to fill my order last fall, then they immediately notified all dealers that the STO program will be discontinued on 1-1-24, no doubt because some bean counter noticed my order, lol. I did the same level of restoration on my truck. The frame totally rusted out so I bought a new frame from GM, and miraculously they were still making those frames in 2018. I bought it in Oct of that year and the label on it had a manufacture date of May 2018, so it was factory fresh, lol. Even the dealer parts mgr was surprised about that. The restoration took 4 years. I had the body on a rotisserie, repaired every inch of it to like new or better and as far as the chassis is concerned it runs & drives like new because it practically IS 100% new. It's 22 years old and when you crawl underneath it's like going back in time. I'm the original owner of both vehicles, and they are not everybody's idea of what they'd consider for a restoration project. I understand that sentiment completely. They've been good vehicles for me and I reached a juncture in life where the decision had to be made, either fix them or replace them. Well, I don't want anything new so that left only one option, fix & hold what I've got. With cars, shit's gonna get like Cuba, man. There will be a lot of frugal, resourceful and self sufficient people hanging onto rides that are 40 - 50 years old and making the most of them in the not to distant future. (Especially with the stupid EV agenda.) Older trucks especially are going up in value. I've seen on KZbin these big wholesalers have prices like $20K or more for 70s & 80s pickup trucks in used as-is condition with a lot of hard wear on interiors, patinaed paint, dents and maybe a little rust. I was around when these trucks were nothing special, now today they are coveted. I also have a '68 Camaro that needs restoration, it's out there saying, HEY, what about me?? (lol.) It's on my bucket list. I doubt any car dude on Earth will have issues with me making that one a keeper. The thing is I have to put the transportation ahead of the toys, so sadly the Camaro must wait its turn.

@@onemoremisfit I have an old Jeep that needs love. I also have a 79 k-5 that I want to do a complete tear down on. Time and money. But, that’s just an excuse. I need to do them both because like you said, it’s gonna be Havana in this country soon enough. Love watching a true craftsman at work brother. Cheers

Hello Jack, nice to see you.

You're welcome, thanks for watching.

The first set I used was what Comp calls their LS Retrofit. They were very noisy. I have video posted of them running in Nov 2021. Then I replaced those with the Comp Evolution series that had just come out, installed in Mar 2022. They were less noisy than the LS Retrofit. I posted video of the Evolutions running right after installation too. I had high hopes for them and ran them over a year hoping they would settle down. But in the end they were still too noisy to suit me, so I replaced them with GM stock lifters which are quieter. No, the Evolution lifters did not exactly fail. They will run if you don't mind the noise. But they are unacceptably noisy to me, and others who heard them in person didn't like how they sounded either. Comp has admitted they had noise problems with their LS Retrofit lifters and they claim the Evolutions have solved those problems. I think they need to do a little better.

Yes, acetone. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Lots of acetone. I cut small cotton rags, about handkerchief size and do small areas at a time because the acetone evaporates fast. Go over it once, then get a clean rag and clean it twice. I talked to Eastwood tech support and acetone is the solvent they recommend. Degreasing is very important, but metal prep is not really needed in my opinion. A good scuff and clean thoroughly with acetone is what I've been doing and I've been getting good results on clean metal. I've coated over rusty metal with it too. I sandblast and soak in Evaporust where possible, and on some things I just remove as much rust as possible by abrasion and solvent clean. The product is made to work over existing rust. Basically the instructions are descale as much as possible and thoroughly solvent clean before application. I have a steering box that was solid rust, I descaled it with rotary power wire brush and solvent cleaned it, then brush applied the product. It's been 4 years and still looks good. I sandblasted a heavily rusted rear end housing and coated it, in a year I saw speckles of rust coming thru what looked like porosity. I saw this on another item as well. For some reason a 2nd coat was needed. I just cleaned and scuffed with Scotchbright pad and applied a 2nd coat. No problems after that. I don't know but maybe the sandblast surface had something to do with that porosity. If in doubt, apply 2 coats. Regarding 2nd coats or topcoats with other materials, unless the 1st coat is only hours old, you will need to scuff before recoating or it will not stick. The instructions say topcoat adhesion is good for up to 48 hrs without sanding but that is not true. I know because I tried it. The topcoat blew off with an air hose. Once that stuff is fully cured you can topcoat it but it must be well scuffed. I have done so successfully with a thorough scuff. As an experiment I have a trailer hitch that I wanted to be black, so I coated it with the Eastwood Platinum and then I shot it with gloss black rattle can Rustoleum right away while the Eastwood was still kinda wet. It worked. The hitch has been on the road for years now and looks great. Another thing, the Dutch Boy plastic container will release the hardened unused material so easily that you can clean it all out of there and reuse the container multiple times. You can blow it loose with compressed air and scrape away any remaining spots. I have several of those containers in a rotation and have put gallons of that stuff thru them. They last a long time.

@@onemoremisfit awesome. Thanks for the info! One last question for you: what thinner do you use when you spray it? The website recommends xylene, however that shit is horribly hazardous and isn’t even legal to sell in my state.

@@brandonlure2738 They specify xylene for the Eastwood product and for POR 15 too, and that's the only thing I use. Also on the can of xylene the label will say things like "thins anti-rust paints, porch paints, epoxies, enamels". There is probably a good chemical reason why xylene is specified. If you can't get it then I'd say researching for a substitute is in order. I once accidentally threw a few ounces of lacquer thinner into a batch I was spraying because I picked up the wrong can of solvent. It did not affect the results, but the batch was still mostly thinned with xylene. If you can't find info on a substitute then you might have to experiment to see for yourself what happens when you use another solvent. Also I'm sure you realize when you spray that stuff you have to use the proper type of respirator. And don't have any other object you care about anywhere near the spray work area because the overspray of that stuff will get on everything around permanently.

@@onemoremisfit spoke with them earlier today. They said an alternative to xylene is their Universal urethane reducer (50104zp). This stuff is much more expensive than xylene though. Wonder if it’s just their version of another basic thinning product

Yes, I do get my share of those.

It still looks acceptable but it is beginning to fade at this time, after about 2 years in the weather. I will probably make another video on it this summer to show how it is holding up. The product maker claims it is good for 2 years and I can say that claim is true in my experience. There's another good thing I like about it, that is it fades with grace. It's not peeling or anything like that, it is slowly weathering off and allowing the original sun fading and zebra striping of the plastic to show thru. Again, it is just getting noticeable when looked at up close but still looks 80-90% OK from a distance. And that fading is mostly on the bridge, sail and tonneau covers. The running board cladding is holding up quite well even with my foot traffic all over it. I will probably let it fade and wear off some more this year and re-apply next year. My experience with this product overall so far has been good and I would recommend it. A couple things I would not recommend: #1 do not "restore" the plastic by re-melting the surface with heat. This has been debunked, the re-melt does not restore the plastic. It only looks like it works temporarily but it really does even more damage to the plastic in the long run and that damage is permanent. #2 NEVER paint the cladding or coat it with bed liner or anything else. The sanding prep that must be done will permanently deface the plastic, and then the coating will eventually peel off anyway because that type of plastic just won't allow proper adhesion, and then you will be left with junk cladding. I wish Dorman or somebody would make reproduction cladding but as far as I know they only make the "spoiler" piece for the top edge of the tailgate and nothing else. So for now you have to take good care of the cladding you have.

@@onemoremisfit yeah I would say mine is acceptable after a year as well but it's a 2002 that was kept in a garage until I bought it a few years ago. So it wasn't badly faded to begin with. It definitely doesn't look new but it also doesn't look bad. I think the trick is to just keep up with moisturizing it lol

@@synapticburn Different topic, how are the brake and fuel lines on your 2002? The OEM fuel & brake lines from the factory are poor quality. My brake lines are all replaced with stainless steel now, the OEM lines rusted away quick. The fuel line set on mine was almost gone but still not leaking, until I handled it to remove it and it all crumbled apart, lol. I replaced that with a new OEM line set that I coated with something much tougher than the weak paint it comes with. Dorman makes stainless brake lines for the Avalanche, and they are making stainless fuel lines for some applications but not for the Avalanche last time I checked. That fuel line set is vulnerable so if yours is not rusted you should shoot & slather some anti corrosion goo on every inch of it before it's too late. It's a tough job to replace it. I replaced mine on a bare frame with the cab off and I could see what a nightmare it would have been on an assembled truck. It routes along the frame rail underneath the ABS module (right below the driver seat), so to replace it the brake lines have to come all apart too.

@@onemoremisfit Man I live in Houston. No cars rust here ever. There's not even a speck of surface rust. It's only one day every few years where they would even need to salt the roads, but they don't even do it. Then. It's one of the upsides to living in this hot ass city lol

@@synapticburn I have a friend who moved to TX 16 years ago, tells me all about it. Winter is nice, summer is hell, cars never rust, but the interior roasts like a solar oven and the sun is brutal to anything parked outdoors. If the Gtechniq C4 held up longer than 2 years down there I'd be impressed. My friend in TX told me one broiling day he wore cheap plastic frame sunglasses and his eyes started burning. He realized the plastic frames were off-gassing from the heat and had to take them off. In TX you need professional grade sunglasses, cheap ones won't do no matter what ZZ Top said, lol. I'm on a gravel road and they put corrosive liquid on it for dust control during summer so I get hit all year long. I had to take extreme measures for protection when I restored my truck. Even plain mud will promote rust if you let it cake on and never wash it off, but I doubt they have a lot of mud down there.

You're right but that's not the only reason. Yes it's been a good car for me and I like it but I can also understand it ain't everybody else's idea of a keeper. The other reason is I have only 2 choices for transportation: either can I buy something new or keep what I've got. I don't want anything new. Everybody has this holy grail idea that they will find a clean no rust low miles southern owned well maintained used but not abused version of what they want, and for the right price. Sure you will ... Then if you go for a "restored" version of your holy grail car you pay top dollar for a flipper special with a pretty paint job and plenty of textured undercoat to hide its secrets. As for me I have chosen to stick with the sure thing because I know better. Even if I found my elusive dream holy grail used car it will have to come all apart and be restored anyway, because I guarantee it is slowly rotting away somewhere inside that you can't see. I'm the original owner of this car, I know everywhere this car has been and now I'm in the process of knowing ALL it's secrets. I like driving something I know intimately. And even if I bought something new it would have to come all apart to be properly rust protected anyway, or else it will be gone in 10 years. This in addition to car loan payments and owning something impossible for me to service that will by design become too expensive to own when the warranty expires. I also have a '68 Camaro on my to-do list. I don't foresee any criticism on keeping that one, lol. But first I have to worry about transportation before the toys. Btw I've seen restorations of some pretty odd cars that I personally wouldn't have any use for, but once you've done some of this kind of work on your own stuff you can understand somebody else's odd choices and appreciate the work that goes into it.

@@onemoremisfit yeah I had a 1975 Chevy Dually with a crazy amount of rust and everybody in the family wonder what I was doing but I ended up patching in a lot of panels a lot of filler and flat black paint ended up selling it to somebody that needed it

I wonder if they made 60 deg fittings 4 years ago when I was putting this together, because if they did then I missed them in all the searching I was doing back then. Also saw many photos of guys using a pair of 90s with this takeoff, no photos of a 60 deg fitting being used. The photos were from a support guy when I contacted them for suggestions on plumbing for this takeoff, he searched them up and emailed them to me. I reckon I'll redo the whole thing when I'm all out of other stuff to do, lol.

Another oil preacher? Tell me how your scriptural citation is relevant.

@@onemoremisfit how a man takes criticism says a lot about his character.

@@MWilk098 I asked you how what you claim a letter on viscosity index label stands for is relevant. BTW I know what the letters and numbers on the viscosity index stand for. I've known this information for over 50 years. I know what base stock is. I know what polymer viscosity modifier additive is. I've seen the stuff in its pure state, it looked like rubber cement and had no lubricant properties in itself. I have some understanding of how viscosity modifiers interact with base stock and how multi-viscosity ratings are derived and for what purpose. I have some understanding of how multi-viscosity oils behave long term under forces such as pressure, shear, thermal cycling and severe heat. My late uncle founded, owned and operated a small company that made specialty industrial lubricants, and they also carried a line of automotive oils and greases. I happen to know a little bit about oil. Maybe you know more than I do and can teach me something, but you sure don't sound like it. Now you pivot to some lame online troll tier philosophical blurb. This is about lifters that don't run quiet. Look man, share a relevant experience, make a relevant point, ask a relevant question or GTFO. Spare me the obtuse online d1m-vv1tt3ry posing as wisdom.

That is not a spark plug boot, that rubber elbow is actually the OEM part that goes on the drain.

No breakage or failures but there were quality defects. One set of push rods is ~ .02" over length and the ends appear to be not hardened correctly because they show undue wear for the low hours they ran. Not using those anyway, I have written them off. Then there was one lifter in the LS Retrofit set that needed deburring on the OD turn, that set was the first set with really bad noise, I had to remove the burr myself, no big deal except it shows poor QC. That set was returned for refund and then I bought the Evolutions. The cam lobes and lifter rollers show very light scratches that won't catch a fingernail, very light, no undue wear. The camshaft itself runs well and does what I want in terms of performance, idle and drivability, no complaints on the cam.

The Comp Evolution series need a shorter push rod than the Comp LS Retrofit series or the stock GM. I experimented with 3 different lengths and shims under the rocker pedestal for exact preload. The push rods come in length increments of .05". By using shims I can split the difference in effective length between sets of push rods. Small changes in preload made no change in how they sound as long as they are inside the plunger range.

Yes they preached to me about oil. I've had straight 30w mineral base in it, 10w40 full synthetic in it, 10w30 semi synthetic in it, and now 5w30 full synthetic in it, and it sounds exactly the same with any oil, no difference. I'm done with the oil preaching. And I ain't putting (X)w50 in it because it has to be winter driven, so don't go there. We had -14F here a couple weeks ago. You can't use oil that thick here and expect to crank it over in that kind of cold. On the topic of oil heat, the engine has dual remote large can oil filters and a pretty good size oil cooler in front of the radiator, together those items reject a lot of heat. The oil in my engine is running cooler than any equivalent stock engine in a stock truck without those things. It is not really what I'd call a performance engine anyway, it is a bone stock bottom end and the engine runs fine. The problem is noisy lifters. I'm tired of excuses for noisy lifters and I've ruled out oil as the cause.

Brother you have a bad attitude towards someone who is honestly trying to help. And a 5w50 synthetic oil has the 5 winter weight. So I can conclude you don't know much about oil viscosity. Sorry I bothered trying to help

@@tonym6854 You are argumentative and I don't mind, I answered your arguments, now you're claiming victimhood over nothing. Knock it off. You apparently don't comprehend what you read. Go back and re read how I tried a wide spectrum of different oils already with no change in results, I have oil coolers etc. 5w50 is NOT appropriate for 14 flipping degrees below zero. Knock it off. You are not an oil expert telling me anything I don't already know. Knock it off. It is possible for an engine to have O/S lifter bores but that is extremely rare. I have a number of other good reasons to doubt that, the first good reason is there is no visible wear at all on the OD of the original lifters, the ones that Chevy originally built the engine with, the ones that ran quiet, and I still have them. Don't you think I'd be looking for something like that when I first took the engine apart? It's more likely that the new lifters from some manufacturers are being poorly made, there are others out there having the same problem, I have heard from some of them.

You stated that your engine is not performance oriented yet you are running a supercharger on an engine that wasn't built for this. Hmmm. Genius. Brother i am not in the victim hood. But maybe you should take a hard look at what you said. Honestly I don't believe that any of the noise you hear is detrimental. You have done a ton of unnecessary work for absolutely nothing. Did you think to run an oil analysis at any time to verify that the noisy alleged lifters were causing undue wear????

Also, it doesn't matter how many oil coolers you have. They will and I'm sure they do keep temperatures low. That is after the fact. Your oil can be heated to extremes in the block and cooling it afterwards will only help stop a more immediate damaging situation. Tell me your oil temps pre and post cooler. Because you've delved so far that you have surely checked. To think any 30 weight oil is ok is insane as its thinning to a 20w depending on base stock. A quality 5w40 or 50 would be absolutely fine in frigid temps as the 5w is the winter flow weight. The same as your 5w30. But you know this already because you have already dismissed any oil conversations because you have tried straight 30, 10w40, 5w30 ? Can't wait to watch your 4th lifter swap

I would ask the QC dept of the company that made them that crazy question. I'm supposed to be paying for something that has already been checked for quality before it is sold. I do believe there are better lifters out there but I only have one lifetime and I've already had 3 sets of lifters in one engine now.

No. The lifter bores in the block not the actual lifters. They could be worn and larger than original spec

The Whipple has fresh oil and it always growled like that from the day it was new, that growling sound comes from the straight-cut gears in it. I know a mild cam does not "need" link bar lifters, but who says I have to "need" something in order to have it? What does "need" have to do with bad lifters that won't run as quiet as they should? Is that supposed to be some kind of excuse for a bad product? Are the lifters just noisy because I didn't "need" them anyway? BTW the cam in the engine right now is Comp and it is very mild with .05" more lift at the valve than stock. I do not want a rough-idling cam like almost everybody else wants. I want the engine to idle smooth as stock at 550 rpm, and that's what it does. So I do like the Comp cam, but I will never use their lifters again.

Are you referencing hydraulic flat tappet or roller lifters?

These are rollers

@@chris_bjj123 yes I know, im just saying about standard hydraulic. If I bought a brand new roller cam from comp or isky I would still send it to Delta Cams for regrinding since the quality of comp and isky is below par these past couple of years, just my opinion

@@Spiritof_76 im just saying about standard hydraulic. If I bought a brand new roller cam from comp or isky I would still send it to Delta Cams for regrinding since the quality of comp and isky is below par these past couple of years, just my opinion

After changing lifters 2 more times the engine now has a set of stock GM lifters in it, and is much quieter. I have posted several other videos documenting my experience with this. Bottom line: I will never use Comp lifters again.

Mine has a new oil pump and there is 48 psi idling at 550 rpm with the oil fully hot. The cam profile is very mild, basically stock with .05" more lift at the valve than what the stock cam had. The springs are basic beehives, the whole valve train is new and I have experimented with 3 different push rod lengths that all fall within runnable range on the preload, they all sound the same. Maybe I will try a set of APA lifters next time the engine comes out for rebuild. I would still like to see/hear a video of new recently purchased Comp lifters running quiet if anybody out there has had that experience.

After having a local speed shop change out the stock 114k mile cam and valve train in my fun daily '04 C5 with an LS1, there was (more) valve train noise. The owner of the shop said because of the BTR stage 1 cam with .600 lift, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, Johnson slow leak lifters, etc., it sounds like the lifters are ticking, but they're not. Now the engine sounds like a sewing machine because of the aftermarket valve train. It took some getting used to because the car initially went in the shop to fix a lifter tick on cold start-up for a few minutes.

@@mlc7boosted You've got a lot more cam in yours than I have in mine. As I understand it when the cam profile is more aggressive it can result in a little more noise because the aggressive profile basically makes it harder for the hydraulic mechanism in the lifter to do the job of taking up the "lash" while following the lobe. So basically they are ticking. Saying it only sounds like they are ticking but they are not really ticking is kinda misleading. If you hear ticking, then ticking is what you have. But then there is the issue of lifters doing a shit job when they could be doing a better job. Sure, they can't be dead quiet but I think they could be a little quieter than they are. I think these lifters are ticking too damn easy, then when you complain they brush you off with excuses. Then there is the issue of the lifters sounding quiet when cold and getting noisy when hot. The cam profile does not cause that. All 3 sets of lifters I had in my engine were quiet when cold and noisy when hot. I think they are just making shit lifters these days.

I'm thinking 3inch side pipes with glass packs will fix these lifters. I think that I am glad that I sold my Silverado, kept the 454 Suburban and bought a Challenger to replace the Silverado. I hear the Dodges are having lifter problems too. I hope I get the 66 Fairlane going before the Challenger gets to ticking. Who currently makes Glasspack mufflers? I'm thinking about buying stock in a glass glasspack muffler manufacturer! Ya'll Take Care, John

Thanks, the foam pieces under the intake are in place.

Funny you mention alternator and water pump because both of those went bad and were replaced during the time I went thru 3 sets of lifters. And 4 different types of oil too, which I already talked about. And no, the alternator or water pump or tensioner (also new) aren't going to sound like that. It's the lifters. I have been doing this long enough to know. Take it from me. I will never use Comp Cams lifters again.

@@onemoremisfit That is weird because I have the same engine in my 2009 GMC sierra pick up and you can’t even hear it run at any temperature until the electric fan kicks on. I had a noise that developed in the front of the motor I changed the serpentine belt and Wala it was gone, the belt was old and brittle and needed to be replaced. As far as comp cam lifters go I had a Solid roller lifter cam and lifters from Comp in my 72 nova that required .016 and .018 valve lash and cross link bars And they still didn’t make that much grinding noise or even that much valve lash tappet noise.

Because he's mad bro... Literally psycho right here