lol, I know the sound is nice! As for your question/concern...yes, the kikuyu kill would be better or more effective if I didn't pull this material out of the lawn. Because I waited 48 hours the kill should be pretty close to maximum however so I'm more interested in removing the debris above ground so that it doesn't look as terrible over the next 2-4 weeks. The removal also makes it easier for the healthy bermuda to spread into the area and reroot down into the exposed dirt. If I wanted to maximize kill I'd not pull this stuff up but I fully expect to have to apply quinclorac at least two more times this fall anyway so I'm deciding to minimize the bad visual in the lawn by doing this. Just a personal decision that we all have to make in our own lawns.

I believe you since I've done it a number of times! :D How much space did you aerate, how many holes per square foot did you target, and how long did it take? I guess since I'm asking questions which aerator did you use? There's a lot of options on the market these days.

that's one creepy avatar you got there. LOL :D

When I lived up in Oregon I also thought warm season lawns were easier...and perhaps the annual maintenance will be super easy once everything finally comes up to my standards but since I didn't kill everything, scrape the top soil and lay new top soil and followed by sod the transition is slow and tedious. What I didn't fully grasp when I ran KBG/Rye at my old home was that these warm season lawns that spread underground are way harder to kill off for good. If you have a lawn of TTTF and want to switch it out for Rye or KBG you can have the job done perfectly in a couple weeks and never have to think about it again. With mixed warm season grasses though herbicidal choices can get confusing and killing everything off all at once in just a few weeks is impossible. One of my neighbors that has lived here for nearly 50 years said he killed his lawn off and maintained bare dirt for two years before he was confident that Kikuyu and common Bermuda was gone from his lawn before he sodded with a hybrid Bermuda. Two years! Up north that just doesn't comprehend. LOL

@@TurfMechanic It's a whole new world. I'm sure that if I move someday, I will have to deal with it.

dude! YES! I've been quietly thinking that for years now. :D

That would be so frustrating to lay down sod and then have it completly destroyed in such a short period of time. You are right though, basic maintenance can keep it at bay easily. I've also found that when new Kikuyu starts growing in the lawn (from blown in seed) it is VERY easy to uproot with your hand or a garden weeder. If you let that sprout grow for a couple months though then it gets overwhelming quickly. Next year I may be able to manage the invading Kik with just Spring PE and then a light hand weeding every 6 weeks or so. Fingers crossed.

yeah, it gets dense fast! in late June the whole spot had barely a touch of Kikuyu. I saw it encroaching in June/July but decided to let it be since the area was mostly bare dirt at the time. Now the Bermuda in that area is very young so I don't really want to rake too heavily. I figure a little removal at a time every few days should allow the Bermuda more space to take over the area

yes it does, it's one of the best ways to kill it actually. make sure to pair the Quin with Methylated Seed Oil instead of a Non-Ionic Surfactant for maximum benefit. Some local hardware stores will carry that in their lawn/garden section otherwise you can get a small bottle on Amazon for cheap.

@@TurfMechanic thank you so much for the info. I’m new to lawn care and don’t want to loose the kbg I finally have to crabgrass infestation.

@Felicia-ge7sp no problem! Spray it asap, once you start flirting with overnight temps in the 30s the crabgrass will want to seed like crazy. Next March get a preemergent down and you'll almost never worry about crabgrass again.

@@TurfMechanic I ordered Drive XLR8 & MSO. I ordered Barricade yesterday as a pre emergent. I hope I’m getting this right. 🙏 I appreciate your content so I can learn & take pride in my lawn.

yeah, it's funny from across the street or a couple houses down it's almost impossible to see the defects in a lawn but once you are up on top of it the blemishes stick out like a sore thumb :D Lucky for you the K31 or clumping fescue doesn't spread so once you yank a chunk out it should be gone forever. This manual lawn work is not glamourous but it's what everybody who has immaculate lawns do from time to time. Keep going and eventually the neighbors will see what you're up to. :)

Honestly earlier this year I figure I'd have way more Kikuyu to remove; so much of the lawn was infested with it this time last year. Last year I decreased the Kik problem a ton so this seems super manageable. A point of clarification though. Kikuyu has those rope-like stolons above ground but also very aggressive underground rhizomes too. the only way to truly rid yourself of it is to spray it out before you hand weed. The herbicides will kill the roots and rhizomes; what you see here is me simply removing the top growth (leaves and stolons) 48 hours after spraying it. I am fortunate that my area doesn't cool off much during the Fall. I think I can keep pushing the Bermuda to grow in this area all the way to Thanksgiving; even then the slow down won't be to low temps; it'll slow because of lack of direct sunlight.

I feel so bad.

@@appiconllgive it a couple of weeks and then hit it with tenacity.

Don't worry too much, hit it now with Tenacity if you've got it and then again in three weeks. No time like the present.

@@TurfMechanic I have tenacity, and that's why I feel bad about not using it. I'll put some down tomorrow morning. Thanks

Big fan of your channel. In Northeast this time of year how many weeks should elapse between putting down nitrogen (ammonium sulfate) at full rate, not spoon feeding.

thanks for this comment! I appreciate the understanding you have between the normal lawn owner and the hobbyist. Obviously this video was targeted toward the average lawn owner. Once someone graduates into the lawn care hobby then yep, everything can be dialed in with far greater precision and as many products as a person is comfortable spending money on. LOL

I can't know for sure but usually when you start hiring others to come mow it's the fact that their mowers are bringing in weed seeds from other properties that they mow on their equipment. Assuming you aren't overseeding every fall the best option to prevent new weed infestation from hired help is to apply a pre-emergent twice a year (or at least once in the Spring). Shoot for roughly the last week of March to first week of April unless you live in a far north or far south location and then again in October. If you overseed in the fall then skip the fall pre-emergent. There's nothing wrong with having hired lawn care services but you have to expect contamination from their equipment to enter your lawn. These companies just don't have the time to fully clean their equipment between lawns so they don't try. Also, FWIW, I don't like tall cut grass. I always mow mine on the shorter side...but that requires more frequent mowing. The average lawn owner doesn't want to mow more than once a week so for those people mowing high can give a better performing lawn over the course of a full season.

You caught my attention because I have a strong affection for the academics and for those more experienced than me. You referenced Acelepryn, GrubEx doesn't use that on it's label. I will absolutely learn as much as possible about Acelepryn over the next season but this video was about GrubEx (a brand name product from Scotts) which uses Chlorantraniliprole as it's active ingredient. What do you think about that considering your 40+ years of entomological experience? if you think Acelepryn is the best choice for residential yard owners then how do you think they should get that on their lawns? And when?

well, let me preface this response with I'm not well versed on this area of the world. But, having searched for central BC I see Kamloops, CA. Based on monthly weather trends in that city the average high in the coldest month of the year (January) is 32 and the average low is 22. For some reason that doesn't sound as extreme as I would expect. If it is accurate however then I'd be confident that a cool season blend planted now would make it through the winter just fine. Probably some die off but not a majority. Push rooting as much as possible with kelp or even better straight cytokinins, topdress with heavy amounts of alfalfa meal before it gets too cold. Looks like its usually in the 50/30's by october so you may have missed your opportunity on that one though. If you have irrigation setup then early morning irrigation on the coldest days can help prevent the soil from cooling off too much allowing for as much rooting as possible. Long story short, don't worry too much about top growth this Fall, focus squarely on bottom growth that you can't see to ensure enough makes it until Spring next year.

@@TurfMechanic Sounds good! thank you very much. FYI I've only starting loving lawns as of this year and I've absorbed your channel like a sponge, great info, well presented, great all round! keep up the great work. Kamloops is actually 6 hours south of me :-) I'm in Prince George, BC and we are for sure cooler than there. this Friday is saying -2C over night and high of 15C or 28F 59F respectively but i expect we'll be hovering above freezing by a few degrees for a month more with the odd day hitting frost over night. then it's into the long dark winter till April :-( I did hit it with Scotts Starter new lawn Fertilizer 24-25-4 to push roots. how much is too much if I want to maximize? can I hit it a few more times this year with that?

Thanks a bunch! For virtually no fertilizer this year I'm impressed. I almost fertilized it twice but ultimately didn't; I still might though one more time to get it is dense as possible for the off-season. As for height, I mowed everything at about 1.3" from Spring until July, then from July through early Sept I let everything get up to around 2.5-3". Earlier this month though I cut everything back down close to 1.6" (second setting on my mower) so it looks a bit dingy. I just like it shorter. A bit of Fall fert and more of those leaves should come back and I think I'll keep it here for a long time to come. I like this height for this variety of Buffalo.

I'd be super curious how many extra system sales Irrigreen would get if they took that pricing strategy? Right now they don't have a direct competitor or alternative to compete against so if any other player jumped in the market I think they might be forced to experiment with a lower controller price.

@@TurfMechanic For sure. Once you get above a certain price most price sensitive customers might just use a simple hose and a timer and other alternatives that dont require digging. Irrigreen is kind of in no mans land between easy and simple DIY systems and professionally installed more traditional systems. Most homes, even older homes have some type of in ground irrigation system and with less money than that controller you can get it up to snuff if its not working or not working properly. Unless you inherited a mess of system like I did. I did it myself but it would have cost me $2000 additionally to what I spent on materials. lol

Fehedta is a formula that kills some weeds but doesn't really green up the grass. You need a different dedicated Iron to do the greening