ebay or amazon.. but they are too expensive to bother. You can almost buy a craftsman v-series 3/8 set for the price of the rebuild kit as far as I can see

We have a similar one at work that arrived with bent base legs. Find a straight edge like a ruler or a level and make sure they are true. The presses are top heavy but they shouldn't lean or tip. -Edit: I think some parts may get bent during shipping as its a heavy item and I'm sure they get tossed around a good bit.

I know the feeling. Ive seen the Benchtop brand here and there, but never knew who sold them!

@@WaterBearOfficial just a little extra info . At that time 1989 Kmart Carry two different brand of tools . BenchTop which made in Taiwan ( some old timer told me at one point benchtop was made in USA ) And other brand that was made in China . Walmart which was only a very small player ( 1989 ) only carried Made in China ratchet and tools . I avoid Walmart tools and Kmart made in China tools like plague in 1989 . This BenchTop ratchet is quite possible the loudest ratchet I ever owned 🤣. But I was 19 years old and the sound of BenchTop click click click was music to my ear. Plus my Pontiac keep on breaking down and that benchtop ratchet and 3/8 metric socket got a lot of use. Now I just keep on dripping synthetic 0w20 synthetic oil left from my oil change . The oil would flush out the dirt from the ratcheting mechanism . Thus I never have to take it apart . Still the loudest ratchet in my tool box . Nice crisp click click click 😍 Music to my ear

I have a k-mart housebrand set of taiwan ratchets - 'FTY' with a similar easco style ratchet to this. Must've purchased it in the early 90s. I thought FTY was the line in taiwan but it seems to be the name of the k-mart house brand as they have fty labeled tools made in Japan as well

That does sound like fun, did Sears sell those refurbished ones at a discount?

@@WaterBearOfficial They exchanged the broken ratchets people brought in for the refurbished ones. Most people accepted the refurbished tool, but there were a few that demanded a brand-new one. The irony was that the refurbished tools were definitely better lubricated because they were low-volume and done by a person that actually cared. We were probably using better grease than the factory, too.

that's interesting. I had no idea they did that, but makes sense. I really do miss sears and the old us made products

@@brettjohnson791 What kind of Grease did you guy's use to refurbish the ratchets?

@@hectorrivera9894 It was a generic lithium grease we got off the shelf, but I can imagine the factory using the cheapest garbage they could find in order to save 1/10 of a cent, per tool.

Def thought about it, I'll continue experimenting with other kits as time allows.

👍🏻

Thats interesting, I wonder if those were left overs from the PM batch as they transitioned to stanley.

Bahco has a long history of quality, I was pleased to know they're still around. I didn't know. thanks for the comment!

As far as determining which individual mount, I visually checked inspected them. My front mount was bad. The rubber was split in two, but it didnt fix the vibration. The second mount didnt show any signs of damage, but being easy to access, I just replaced it. If youre getting a jerk, many times it can be the the ones that sit vertically like your transmission mount. Look for cracks or splits in the rubber.

Thank you for the kind words! Glad the video was of some use!

I raised my engine about half an inch. Maybe you have more than one bad mount causing it to sit lower? Where did you get the mount? Is there a part number?

@@WaterBearOfficial Thank you for responding. The part is: 6L8Z-6068-AA. I have a 2005 3.0 V6. I bought it online. My escape has 122K I replaced this previously at 95K with a chinese made piece of crap that gave out at 27K, so I paid over a hundred for a genuine Ford part. I mounted it, at great difficulty. I should have removed the coolant reservoir like you. Nonetheless, when I went to replace the engine to mount bracket, I noticed the difference, so I measured the height difference between old and new, and it is about an inch and a quarter. I was wondering if this might be the right part for the 4 cylinder, which might sit taller given that it's an inline. I can't seen to get a clear answer online. Update: Everywhere I look seems to indicate that the mount is the same for both the 4 and the 6 cylinder. So I guess I just need to assume the level of the engine was a factor of the collaped old mount. Ii was badly shot. Even the rubber was torn on the bottom. I called it a night when I saw this condition. Tommorw I'll prop up the engine to where the bracket fits, and if everything looks symentrical in the engine bay and underneath, I'll assume that's what it was. Any more thoughts?

@@edwardbaker1331 I searched the part number across several retailers and they all fit the 2005 3.0 V6, and look identical to mine. Now Rock auto shows a hydraulic engine mount as an option in the parts search. The mount has a post that sticks out over the top- but doesnt share your part number. The one I installed and is flat on top. I measured it just now, it measures between 6 and 6 1/4 inches from base to top. Its dark at the moment so I cant be more precise.

@@edwardbaker1331 Also Yes, per the Chilton Repair manual, it advises to raise the engine enough to take the weight off the mounts - placing a wood block between the jack and oil pan. Page 2A-31 in section 18.

@@WaterBearOfficial Got the job completed. I guess I was too conservative about popping up the engine, and my measurements were a little off. the new Ford mount was only about 3/4 inch taller, which is understandable comparing it to an exhausted mount. I too comparred a lot of cross references and everything checked. I am greatful for your effort and time. You're a gentleman and a pro. Good luck with your channel. God Bless.

Thank you! Sorry for the late reply. We just had a baby and have had a lot going on. Will be working on the Escape more in the future. Thanks again!

I didnt realize how different caps could be. Hopefully I can find another to do at the local scrap yard. Thanks for watching!

Some municipalities sell their scrap metal to salvage and metal recycling yards. I found a pile of them at my local yard. Got Lucky to find this complete one that didn't have a length of pipe attached to it.

4" DeWalt knotted wire wheel and a good respirator.

@@WaterBearOfficial - I saw in some other comments that you used paint thinner on the lettering. Did the Knotted Wire Wheel not work on the lettering? Or were you afraid that it would damage it?

Also be careful with the bronze fitting at the top, I didn't have an issue with the wire wheel, but bronze is a soft metal, so be mindful of that.

The lettering in the cast iron is pretty stout, it's good for the outer edges.But the wheel couldn't get a lot of the inner parts of the characters. I tried a propane torch, and paint stripper. It took about two 24 hour applications of stripper and a steel pick to dig out the paint. The flame worked, but consumed a lot of propane. When I find another I want to take my time with it, I was excited to finish this one and make a video of it.

@@WaterBearOfficial - Did you also replace a gasket that I saw? I haven't disassembled my hydrant yet, but I'm assuming that anything like that will need to be replaced (mine is dated 1964)

Never mind I see it’s p2270

@@bellojj yes sorry its so blurry, it was p2270

@@WaterBearOfficial thanks man this seems to be the only video in all of KZbin that has the same car as me and same code so I’m gonna try and replace that one first.

@@bellojj glad it was helpful!

It was the sensor itself. But must've been a knockoff from Amazon and triggered the light about 3 months later. Replaced it with a Bosch and it's been good ever since.

@@WaterBearOfficial appreciate it.

When I find another, I'll definitely do a more true-to-life paint scheme. Thanks for watching!

@@WaterBearOfficial That's actually the original color scheme that you sanded off. The body was yellow and the cap was green indicating its displacement

@@seanjuth Ah gotcha, it looked more green to me. It makes sense though

So glad to hear it was helpful. They're great little cars

Ever been under a car before? Looks to be just under the rear exhaust manifold.

That may be a sign to replace your body’s O2 sensor 😂

Thanks for the kind words! Am to do another and spend more time on it.