I'm not sure, since I didn't think of measuring it, and I'm not sure how I could do it accurately. I think I ordered a packet from Wolff with several springs and chose the medium one. It definitely made the magazine easier to drop, which I prefer for IDPA matches.

Thank you. I hope it's helpful for others.

No it's a production 2011 style pistol. Mine runs great and yes, i did replace MIM parts. Not because the factory parts didn't work but because I wanted higher quality components. The gun shoots like a STI old school 40 cal I used to own. I'm Very happy with my Prodigy 4.25" model. Is a Staccato P better? yes, but $700 buys a lot of ammo .

Thank you for the comment. I hope the video was helpful. Springfield Armory makes good guns!

I'll ask him and let you know.

Send me your email, and I'll give you his contact info. My email is: [email protected]

In case you need it, here's the website for the 2A Shooting Center in Tulsa. The gunsmith there, Garth, worked on my Prodigy, so call them and ask for him. 2ashootingcenter.com

I'm glad to hear it helped!

I agree. I have owned a number of Springfield Armory products, and they are all good.

I love my XD9. Having said that, HS and Croatia have nothing to do with the Prodigy.

​@@paulschab8152facts lol folks always want to give hs all of Springfields props they make good guns and also too what Springfield and world great shooters gave as I put and made the echelon but had nth to do with this gun

I mainly use the Mitch Rosen 5JR Express for a 5" Prodigy, which has been great! It's an OWB leather holster with a forward cant that holds the Prodigy very close to my body, making it comfortable and easily concealable. Recently I've been trying a Crossbreed Rogue OWB/IWB Kydex holster, which works fine, except over time Kydex can wear off a cerakote finish in places. Both holsters are available through the Springfield Armory online store.

That would be correct if both pistols cost the same, but with the upgrade my Prodigy ended up about $600 less than the Staccato. I addition, the waiting list for a Staccato was 6 months, while the Prodigy was immediately available, my gunsmith (whom I know and trust) provided specific upgrade recommendations (which I followed), and I prefer the 5" barrel of the Prodigy over the 4.4" for the Staccato. Considering all that, the Prodigy + upgrade was the best option for me, and I've been very happy with my decision.

Thank you for the positive feedback. I hope that sharing my experiences will be benefit others with similar interests.

I’m not sure what you’re referring to without seeing it. Usually the only thing that interferes with for-aft movement of the slide is the sear. If Method 1 in my video doesn’t work, Method 2 might be better.

@@salmonthomas i got it i had to use 50/50 cord and I pulled on the guiderode and spring and it all fell apart, thanks for the help!

@@EpicKillz I'm not sure how that worked, but I'm glad it did. I hope my video was helpful. The key is getting the sear down, either by Method 1 or Method 2 in the video.

You could check the Challis and other websites, but you can probably rethreads it and insert the appropriate over-sized bushing.

Thank you for watching it!

Thank you for the feedback. Glad to be of help,

Glad to be of help.

I'm not especially mechanically inclined, but (were this ever to happen), I'd first rule out simple solutions, like if you were using the wrong Allen wrench. I think it takes a 1/16". If it fits, then verify that you're turning it counter-clockwise to remove. It's hard to imagine screwing it in so hard that you stripped the hex insides of the screw, but I suppose it's possible. It would also depend on if the screw is stuck after fully installing the grip. If so, I'd just leave it as is and forget about it. If you haven't yet attached it to the AR lower, you need to get the screw out one way or the other. You could super-glue an Allen wrench to the screw, without getting any glue on the sides of the plastic hole, let it harden, and then try to unscrew it. Or, using a drill press and a drill press vise, you could drill it out. That could damage the plastic threads in the hole, but that might not matter. You can use a roll pin of the appropriate size to re-attach it. Or, even if you couldn't re-attach it, simply attaching the grip to the AR lower would put the front of the trigger guard in about the right place without a screw. No one (except you) would even notice. Not perfect, but it would work.

I think I recall it can be a little tricky getting the threads lined up and starting correctly, but by patiently working with it you should get them to go in straight. If that doesn't work, it might be due to mismatched or damaged threads.

Are you referring to the Daniel Defense product described here or standard mil-spec pistol grips? Standard grips are a dime a dozen, and I don't care for them for the reasons mentioned. The Daniel Defense grips solve the problem, so I recommend them over standard mil-spec grips.

I've heard that rifle primer cups have slightly thicker walls. If so, they might or might not work with a particular pistol depending on how strong the striker/firing pin spring is. As for the charge, I wouldn't be surprised if they're all about the same. All primers have to do is ignite the powder. The powder then creates the huge chamber pressure, up around 30,000 PSI for 9mm. Any pressure contributed by the primer would be tiny in comparison.

I didn't check accuracy or group size, since I was just shooting through a chronograph into a berm. I predict that there would be no difference, since pistol shooting is not a high-precision sport. Variability caused by the shooter himself is usually much greater than variability in the ammo. As someone pointed out in one of the other comments though, magnum primers have thicker cups, so with a pistol that has a weak firing pin strike, you might get a failure to fire.

Thank you for the info.

Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful. This method also doesn't make much mess.

It sounds like you're having failures to feed. That doesn't sound like a primer issue to me. I would think it might be more like a problem with the cartridge dimensions, such as incorrect bullet or case diameters, or maybe that overall cartridge length doesn't work well with your gun. Also, it might be an issue with a weak recoil spring that doesn't have enough power to push the cartridge in. Is the feed ramp smooth and clean?

@@salmonthomas it has been tested with the original GLOCK spring , cartridges dimensions are measured by digital caliber and are seating at its OAL 29,5 mm , high cartridge loads 5,4 grain Vjhyavouri N340 , the pistol has the trigger prepared by a real expert on its original base for optimize it’s performance. Another suggestion says to crimp more the bullet

@@salmonthomas as weak recoil it can be this is the reason why he suggest to crimp and test both with CcI 500 and 550 magnums

Is your problem a failure to feed the cartridge into the chamber when the slide goes forward; that is, before you fire? Or is it a failure to extract or eject after you fire? If it's a failure to feed, does it happen when you load the first round from the magazine, before firing the first shot? Depending on when the malfunction occurs, you might be able to narrow down the cause. Your overall length sounds long, at least for 115 grain FMJ bullets. These commercial cartridges are usually about 1.155" (29.34mm). I load mine between 1.120" (28.45mm) to 1.135" (28.83mm). I don't have any references to know the correct charge for that powder (for 115 or 124g bullets), but 5.4 grains sounds like a lot. So you should have plenty of chamber pressure, and I don't think changing primers would have any effect. Generally people taper crimp 9mm. I use a light crimp. Are you setting your powder charge and overall all length based on a reference book? You should follow their specifications for both powder change AND overall length. Both affect chamber pressure, so you have to get both right. Overall length also affects feeding. If you follow the reference data, it should normally function fine.

I use 123 gr fmj following the loading data but 0,2 grains more to reach 350ms the no feeding issue happened at the second 8 shot group exercise so at magazine full at half, it is very strange issue.on single shot doesn’t happened, this happens On a very rapid fire sequence .is a cycling problems

I hope it makes your jewelry look beautiful!

Would this leave micro scratches in the brass? Looking for something that even when viewed under light magnification is almost scratch free

Thank you. I try to make videos about things I learn that may be a practical benefit to others.

I'm glad it was helpful.

Sounds like you may have done what I did! Glad it was helpful.

Thank you. Last year I bought the wet brass tumbler, sifter and dryer made by Hornaday, which does the same as what I show in this video, but processes three times as much brass in the same time. I hope to make a video showing the new equipment. But the process I show in the this video still works great.

Glad to be of help. Thank you for the comment.

Thank you for the info. I have no experience with those. I personally haven't noticed any interference with the trigger.

You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.

Thank you for the insight. Wow, that sounds cold! I probably wouldn't last 30 minutes below freezing! By the way, I've been using Servicious Aventuras primers from Argentina. They work fine for my 1911, but some shooters with striker-fired pistols have occasional misfires, perhaps due to thicker primer walls.

@@oakleydefense5513 ,Your assessment is correct, those primers are thick-walled, they do not work well in pistols with a lightened hammer, IPSC shooters use "imaz" PRIMERS

Thank you for watching my video and for the comments. It’s good you understand the difference in wall thickness for rifle versus pistol primers. Which brings up a good point you’re probably aware of. Some primer substitutions might be acceptable but using any pistol primer in a rifle cartridge is potentially dangerous because of the thinner walls in pistol primers. That, combined with a more powerful firing pin and higher chamber pressures might lead to a punctured primer and high pressure gas going back toward the shooter.

I think so also.

Interesting! In the US at that time, the price was probably similar, about $25/1000. Do you know in which countries it's possible for citizens to reload? My impression is that most European countries have restrictions on gun ownership. As I mentioned in the video, now a year and several thousand primers later, the Murom primers worked fine.

You're welcome. Hope it helped!

@salmonthomas yesir!! I was uhh definitely freaking out. Just a tad lol.

I understand. As they say, "Been there, done that!"

Thank you for the feedback!

Thanks for the info. What brand were they?

@@salmonthomas CCI SP Magnum.

Yes, that's a potential problem with magnum primers, due to thick walls. It can also occur with standard primers from some manufacturers. For example, Servicios Aventuras small pistol primers (Argentina) can likewise fail in a gun with light springs, but with a strong firing pin, they fire consistently. If 100% reliability is required, we must first validate them with the specific pistol.

I think you're referring to the roll pin (rather than screw) that holds the back of the trigger guard in. I pushed it out at about 2:50 in the video using a 3/32" roll pin punch. I think that's what it was.

@@salmonthomas thank you

Thank you for the info.

Thank you for the feedback. Glad to be of help.

By now I've loaded 7,557 of these and they've worked as well as my favorite American primers. I think you can be confident they'll work fine.

Excellent! Glad to hear it helped.