Never met him personally but seen him a number of times since the 60s. I saw him in about 1969 at a school hall dance in Waverley playing it's a real thing. wonderful. I only recorded a little bit hand held with my phone, I wanted to enjoy the concert, which I did! His constant walking around made it hard too. 😀

Hi, probably one of two possibilities 1/ it is not a M version 2/ it has been modified to run at slower speeds. Check all the name plates on back. It might simply be a X-2000 model with an "M" cover over the heads. If modified then that's a whole other world and you would need to find what the modifications were, I have not investigated such a route. Also check the heads to see if they actually are correct for 2T playback/record ie. 4 heads .... erase, 2T record, 2T PB and 4T PB If only 3 heads then it's a 4T deck that only does 3.75 and 7,5ips. (I always forget what the cm rate is). Oh, and the M has an IEC/NAB switch on the back, others don't have this switch. I think my M deck came with just one belt too. It didn't prevent it from working ok. It's a while ago so I don't remember if I put 2 belts in. I Need to check my videos! Don't know the reasoning behind 2 belts I plan to get back to mine for a few reasons, 1/ I think my adjustment of the arm positions is not done properly 2/ I want to revisit the toque settings for the reels as well as ensure the capstan pressures are ok, they are tricky to get right according to the manual and I don't entirely trust their method. 3/ Mine does not record, totally faulty and unkown cause. I have since bought a Tentelometer to correctly measure tape torques. Re belts To be honest the service manual descriptions of belts and capstan drive methodology is completely bonkers. The manuals confuse the standard, the R and the M as to how they work with what belts and the parts list of belts is confusing. I look forward to when I pull my M apart again so that I can definitively say whether the turns ratio of front and back capstan are the same or not. The manuals description to me sounds back to front. Eg Is it different torque on reels or different turn rate of the capstans that keeps the tension across the heads? Fortunately atm my adjustment is working fine for PB and the tapes sound fabulous on PB. It will be a few months before I get back to it. 😞 moggy

I try not to think about the F950 any more. 😁 The audio does sound nice but adjustments are a pain. Best to not destroy the original spring as much as possible, try another (shorter?) stronger spring to test the theory. It does sound like it needs to be stronger. With another spring you can test to your hearts content. The spring appears to be a major issue with these decks !

sorry can't remember but certainly a cap or 2.

yes, it's big , heavy and interesting. I might try and squeeze in another transport, it all depends on the connecting cables and what they do. A lot of investigation is required. Someday!

Always hard to answer this one. I don't think they need "regular" service. However they are long in the tooth (as all the naks are) and if you want a really long life then it's best to have it "serviced" if not already done, they are about 40 years old. (1981-84) There are 4 main things to consider 1 EL caps they may be ok (I have not changed mine, yet) 2 Orange caps. I've definitely found some OG caps to fail in other machines. The update kit from 1000zxl on ebay seemed to be a good investment but you need a reliable technician to change them, some are in an awkward position. Have they been done on yours? If the ZX-7 works ok then I suppose you could delay the cap exchange until something happens, that could be a ways off. The other ZX7 that I changed caps on the owner reckons it sounds better. 3 Heads ok? Hard to see but it should be obvious if they are badly worn. Otherwise probably ok. 4 Mechanism needs a service....oiling and greasing, rubber belts and idler replaced, reel motor checked and oiled. If never done then this is possibly the most important point of these 4. .. I have never tried a CR2 (1988-90). I assume it's a 2 head type with a little adjustment of bias if necesaary. (I have a CR5 which sounds pretty good). The ZX-7 has the ability to adjust for recording 'almost' any tape type. (The typical argument is the ZX-7/9 are best for recording and the CR7 and Dragon are best for playback, yeah that's nitpicking.) I imagine the the CR2 is a worthy deck for casual use. I just checked and it has a bias tune knob so you can ensure best recording with different tape types. Levels would be by experience. It's no slouch at 20-20kHz response. As far as actual audio quality I don't know. I can say the ZX7 sounds quite awesome. It would be good if you could try out the ZX7 and compare it against the CR2. If you don't do a lot of recording or playback then perhaps the CR2 with a "service" might be enough. Up to you. 😀🙂😒😏😄

@@MoggysHiFiAntics Thank you.

I appreciate your confidence . I am unable to take on other peoples's gear until later in the year. Where do you live? I'm in Melbourne Australia.

They're very old school, yes. I just kept looking for them on ebay and eventually got one. There are a few different types for checking FFWD, REV and play tensions. I made sure I got one that would do play at least. Speed of REW and FFWD is not so important, usually the specs quote so many seconds for a full rewind or fast forward of a C60 cassette.

That's hilarious because i was also just thinking about this wacky song. I remember buying the magazine and I think it came inside it..

Me too! Thanks Moggy!

This is the record that came in the center of Mad Magazine? We wore this thing out when we were kids!

We must have all had the same childhood as I remember laughing hysterically to this song

thanx. Walker designed the layout for a good reason. I don't see the reason for changing it. Simply have the speaker at the right height (not on the floor) e.g "Stand and Deliver" or "Arcici" stands. And angle it to be facing you. Also the wiring might be a mess if you alter the wiring layout.

thanks for the feedback!

I've never found any dissertation from Quad themselves. I'm soon going to re-visit all this but likeness to new panels seems to be a good idea to me.

Understandable ! I always thought that if I holed the diaphragm I would accept it and then go full hog. Fortunately I never holed the diaphragm once. Looping fishing line is admirable, certainly safer but making the line do a u-turn back out wouldn't be easy. Well done. Try [email protected] , it works . Cheers

Unfortunately the cassette player didn't take to repair, but the radio works fine so I'm happy. Great for outside when gardening.

something to look for, thanks

Remind me in 2 weeks, I can't at the moment. sorry.

I don't know about this mod. I would need to measure the output ac voltage to see if it is below 0.5v or 0.3v ac. I wouldn't do this because it is so low. Arguably a higher voltage limit might be useful e.g. 3 series diodes in LLel with 3 series ie. 1.5v each way. I find it easier to just ensure the cap is fully discharged before use. This isn't something I've given any thought to.

I have been a professional maintenance technician at a tv station and a technical officer in R&D for Agilent for a total of 37 years. As far as being a permanent techo for a hifi shop, no I have not, but I know how to follow schematics and work on mechanicals and optics too. Very few Nak techs are still around so the rest of us have to do the best we can with the lack of spare parts available. What I did do on this machine I felt I did a good job BUT it is a complex deck that I got stuck on a couple of issues that I did not have time to sort out (display and bias). It now plays music great. I offered to buy the deck so that I could look at it at a later date but he declined so I had to give it back unfinished since I was going overseas for 8 months. No, I'm not a Nak technician but so what? Who cares? I love doing these repairs and haven't failed on a deck yet. This 1000zxl is probably the only unfinished one. I repair all manner of things including cars, motorbikes, computers, toasters and washing machines, not just cassette decks. I've built a few amplifiers. I avoid repair of multi-channel receivers if possible 😄. On yootoob there are many different styles of repair: xraytonyb is excellent. Mr Carlsons lab is excellent. Hifirulezz is ok but I find him hard to understand (eastern EU accent) and he glosses over a lot . 12voltvid is acceptable but his repair methods are sloppy.Then there's me, retired and having fun! If you want a "pro" then send it to Willy Hermann, I don't mind.

www.altronics.com.au/p/k2574-esr-meter-kit/ or try www.evbesrmeter.pt/blue2esr.htm probably better being from Europe

Just too many issues. You need to get a technician to look at it. The CT-F950 are well worth getting fixed, they can be sold for a few bob.

I don't think it's that important, it's only for the drawer. I might have got mine from www.vintage-electronics.net/ which is where I get most belts.

I didn't. Perhaps one of the chaps below may have. I had to give it back unfinished as I was going overseas for an extended period. I offered to buy it but he declined. The display defied me and the bias cct was not resolved.

I'm also Calibrating my ct-f1250 and ct-f900 around 710mv So when I play a weak tape I will have playback full range, which is really cool but one set to 1.12v will Barely move the display like -6db which is boring Still figuring if how it effects the recording? Levels

Update - Must do this after all Calibration (Adjustments) are done, it will effect all the voltage for Calibration. its already to hard to figure it out PIONEER TEXT and than converting it would almost be impossible and confusing.

It's either fallen to bits inside and possibly non-recoverable or it has simply got stuck. Turn off power and spray the inside of the switch with deoxit or rp7 or wd40, it may be tricky to find an entry point. Switch on and off numerous times (power off) and hope it clears up. Try to keep liquid from spreading elsewhere. If that doesn't work then it needs to be pulled apart and fixed or replaced.

The ctf950 may not use a belt, it uses an optical encoder and digital display. I don't know if the 900 does the same thing. Try downloading a service manual from hifiengine.com, Good luck.

Glad to hear. I plan to use springs instead of weights, same principle. I'll be re-starting the esl series very soon. I miss my esl listening very much.

Chris,, after having did it,,, I'm not sure I would be happy to use springs. When you heat the film you do get a fair bit of relaxing perhaps 10-12mm over the film width. so will take some tension of springs. but much better than taping film to glass, can't see that working for any length of time now seeing the tensions involved. The jig was not difficult or expensive to build,,, I will send you some pics if you like. Most of the work went into welding jaws onto the clamps, and covering jaws in rubber, 34 clamps. The force on the film is very close to breaking point,,,, very close 1.8 Newtons on each clamp. Your going to have to do clamps anyway do conciser weight jig. Pity your not in Ireland you could have used mine. Cleaning frames from other speaker at present,,, going to try diaphragm glue to see how it goes on one stator, much tougher stuff as it don't swell as much. Reckon it would last better. None of my old diaphragm films were torn, tension was low. Stators had only broken glue in a few places but pulled all apart and redone the lot fresh, with hopes of longevity. Happy to draw up what I did to build jig and send pics if it could help. Best Wishes, Ray

@@user-rd9nj6xt3v Springs do the same for weight as do actual weights. The springs each have a scale so if there is some relaxation I can tension each more so. I've yet to know what tension I need so these make it simple. I could change to weights when I know the kgF required for each but I don't see the need at the moment. I currently have 28 positions. You have 2 more on long side and 1 more on short side. 1.8N = 184gm per 34 places (6.25kg total). So 6.25kg/28 = 223gm (2.2N) per clamp. This might be a good place to start, thanks. It comes down to what resonance I get on the gluing jig. BTW, I DON'T heat the film, that's a disaster, the film just suddenly contracts and destroys what I have done. There is NO point where the film contracts "slightly", i.e. no in-between state. Definitely NO "relaxing". I'm yet to understand why heating of the film is mentioned by some, at all.

Actually I missed a few valid points and made some improper assumptions, but I intend to show the app in future videos. Anyhow it's a nice piece of kit.

I would have used the right size if I could get one. Having said that I see no problem. A larger roller has a better grip on the capstan and less prone to slipping. You haven't given a reason. The only thing I can think of is that it depends on a certain slippage between the two. Is that what you are saying? If so you may be right but it works and works well. The difference in slippage is miniscule.

Yes pre-recorded stuff is silly. My aim is to record my own stuff

I can't recall. I should have checked such an issue. I now have it as a junk item, perhaps I will have another go at it next year. Ta.