Everyone should be careful using a tablesaw.

Squares will be a different video. I was just checking to see if the front and back of the blade were parallel to the fence.

The squeaks are my favorite thing about that saw! $70 bucks used? It should squeak!

I think I ended up adjusting the pad out of the way and propped the tail of the clamp to correct that.

Yes, I learned a lot from a video made by these guys in this link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZ6kZ4yHgcZ9eK8si=XH1H5GXg9JDbVr_I

Thanks! For me it gets to the point where if I’m going to patch something… it takes about as long to make a big patch as a little patch. Veneer repairs I try to keep small. Quikwood? 1/2 inch or two inch is the same same for me! And thanks for your comment.

The problem I had then and I still think persist today is they aren’t really transparent about what QCS is and how it works. At the time I made the video I was using soy gel, which works great on old and new finishes but I was excited to try the QCS, and it was obvious for my test that synthetic or plasticky Modern finishes were immune to the effects of QCS, but that older shellac based or possibly lacquer based finishes would come off with QCS. The biggest problem I had with it it wasn’t clear how to neutralize it and they recommended using more QCS to neutralize the existing QCS, which gets kind of expensive compared to other strippers, which are also non-toxic like soy gel. I tried using a degreasing stripper neutralizer on QCS and it didn’t seem to work. What did work was some denatured alcohol and the makers of QCShave since put out a QCS neutralizer.

The QCS team actually put out a video explaining why their products didn’t work and it confirmed what I had already seen because the video they made came out shortly after mine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6W8f3xjqapkh6csi=nk6fQdSW2LhoMk8J

I guess they stop making Johnson‘s which I figure my quarter can is still good for about another 10 years But I guess Minwax makes a finishing paste wax. It’s about the same thing as Johnson. The other wax that a lot of old timers like I’m Furniture is Bri wax. I have never used it, but it sure is fun to see old dry wood come back to life with a little bit of care.

@@theflippingidiot7705 Dang. I just did some quick-n-fancy googling. Discontinued in 2021 it seems. Whelp, time to look for something else. I have used MinWax. It's been around forever. There are other's I've never heard of. Maybe I can find the formula for Johnson's and/or how to make my own. I love doing stuff like that.

Home Depot has one by Varathane but I can’t figure out if it’s silicone free or not at this point. But that may be another option if it’s too much trouble to make it.

One I was curious about was this guy right here because it’s a spiral cutterhead. Not exactly like the Shelix heads, but replaceable carbide and it has the two speeds and that’s what you want for those woods with really twisty grain. Slower feed means more cuts and less tear out. Maybe Cutech could send one to each of us to try out and see if it beats the Dewalt for value! cutechtools.us/products/planer-40800h?variant=31617281032295&currency=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwo6GyBhBwEiwAzQTmcyJFPO1ZFtiu1rn4V2TPO9HJEylJk2O8FKm1qnxxvCj32Di2BJnvOBoCGEkQAvD_BwE

@@theflippingidiot7705 My WEN Planer arrived this morning. Unboxed it, in perfect condition from Lowes. Didn't have to make any adjustments at all. Had some 2x4's I had to plane down to 1-1/4" and the depth stop worked perfect from factory. As for snipe, I had 99% NONE at all.

I had super high hopes for it after seeing the KZbin videos! Two things I didn’t like about it was it destroyed my nitrile gloves from Costco, and I had no good information from the people that make it about how to neutralize it so I could put on the next finish… I haven’t had a chance to test it extensively because in my market a lot of people are done buying antique, dark oak furniture, and QCS Isn’t my first choice for certain Furniture or It doesn’t work at all on the other half of what I typically work on to flip. If I thought it was terrible, I would make a video saying it’s terrible, but I’m still trying to figure out if there’s a place where it’s useful and my plan is to take old oak furniture and cut it up and turn it into mission style furniture. So if it’s a less toxic way to take off the old gunk and varnish, I may keep using it, but it certainly isn’t close to unseating my favorite stripper and that is soy gel. I like the blue bear brand of soy gel, and I hate their neutralizer, almost as much as I love the stripper cleaner that I used to neutralize the blue bear soy gel from Green EZ

The point was I had a mix of vintage and modern pieces of furniture so I was able to test QCS on different eras of finishes. It didn’t work at all on a more plastic (catalyzed varnish or polyurethane?) modern finish and the folks at Stripwell later put out a video admitting it doesn’t work on more modern finishes.

This is the video from a year ago and they may have updated their products. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH3HYZ2jftqHmtksi=PUvpzqjrHl3VXCyP

To see if the Yellow Tape works not just with what I do but How I do it.

Thanks!

I probably wouldn’t of done it except it. I was curious to see what the lumber would look like because the dresser is about 100 years old almost and the tree the lumber came from for the dresser was probably a couple hundred years old so the wood in that dresser is 400 or 500 years old.

Thank you!

Thanks for subscribing! Happy to share my adventures in furniture!

It’s a trade off between mentioning an idea and having the words stay too long as the video moves along and obstructing whatever action is next. I was guessing people would back up or pause the video if the text was important Ideally, I would have someone make graphics that would ego between scenes to read if it is an important concept. That may be a ways off until I can grow the channel.

I should add that if you ever have any questions about anything related to woodworking, I will do what I can to answer them, or refer you to a resource that can answer the question as correctly as possible.

Some of the furniture I make I use ash for drawer, slides, and I think a lot of the fine furniture out there uses a pretty soft, secondary wood on the interior. I need some pretty serious chisels to knock out the dovetails if I’m using ash. I was chopping out a Moxon Vise block with some Japanese chisels from Woodcraft and the edge got all chipped up. I am looking forward to doing some testing with these chisels to see how the edges hold up cutting hardwoods.

I have a little bit. It is hard to do a test and know what’s going to happen on certain pieces. I did try it on some large weird stain I had on something that wasn’t Furniture and I thought it would actually be a stronger acid but you can do multiple treatments to see what kind of luck you have. When it comes to Furniture, I guess the trade-off is what if it over bleaches and if that happens, is it really a problem because bright things tend to draw the eye more than dark things. I will say that one really cool effect although it’s kind of counterproductive for a more expensive species like Black Walnut is that you can turn black walnut white. So, if I ever had the money for it, I thought I would build an entire dresser made out of Black Walnut, and then bleach the entire thing some shade of white for effect. Are you trying to rescue a particular piece? Burns are pure carbon, so those won’t react with anything as far as I know. So some things will work with acid and somethings won’t.

@@theflippingidiot7705 thank you for response I had seen some other youtubers wash a whole piece in the acid I dont have any experience with the acid and was curious

Apparently, if you have ever made spaghetti sauce you have used oxalic acid, but at lower strengths… (Link below) Your best bet if you are curious is to cut off a chunk of a variety of species and mix up some acid. See if you like it. Make notes on dilution, number of applications and time or duration of contact. I always got everyone else’s leftover acid so I didn’t seek it out but it would be fun to test possible special effects with the right piece of furniture! www.google.com/search?q=oxalic+acid&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

I was planning on Arm R Seal to really pop the grain and give it extra protection but that’s a 70° plus and we are looking at about 50 in the steady rain for the next three days where I am If it was cold and dry I would go with the Zinsser Blonde Shellac with wax. I find the Zinsser does a good job of smoothing out original finishes, but I was tempted to do the oil based finish so people could see a Heywood Wakefield that really goes off the rails.

For Heywood Wakefield Purists, and I appreciate the look when it can be salvaged simply, there is a company making restoration finishes that deliver that Heywood Champagne or Wheat. Here is that link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnvaqY2caLmWjsUsi=C21BFBvWolD4QuJS

@@theflippingidiot7705 Thanks!! Why did you decide to use the arm r seal/zinsser instead of the restoration finish from werefinish? the one from werefinish does look quite expensive.

I have had good experiences putting Arm R Seal on black walnut coffee tables from the Lane Furniture Company. I still haven’t applied either finish because the weather hasn’t cooperated recently. Also, I have ended up doing school pickups when I had a 70 degree day today. But I may have to make it happen indoors tomorrow with the cameras rolling. Daylight would give the camera the best color so viewers could see the tones most accurately. Letting the fumes fly away outside is a lot easier but Spring in Minnesota is wacky weather season. 🫤

@@theflippingidiot7705 Got it, looking forward to your next video!

Where I really want to try, these is on my jointer, where I like the micro jig approach to handling material with a push block, because the offset push blocks you get with desktop jointers feel a little goofy with my wrists. I wanted to be able to produce downward pressure without feeling like the angle that comes on jointer push blocks will slip, and I’ll drop my knuckles onto the jointer.

This dresser looks like it was built by a company that makes cutting boards. Solid maple throughout.

I plan to make videos that show off how they work with what I am doing but here is a good video to help you understand why they are helpful for Woodworkers. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2K7potundaZj5Isi=QZKv-8m6C-4Flt8W

Thanks! Old furniture is made from lumber harvested from really old trees that we may never see again for furniture making and woodworking. So some of the most amazing wood is already tied up in older Furniture. That is one reason there is money in salvaging trees that have sunk in swamps or in some cases, large lakes like lake superior in Minnesota because those trees contain wood that is hundreds of years old from old-growth forests that are unlike anything that modern lumber looks like. A local lumberyard close to me, was selling some Beechwood, I think, that was almost holographic, in it’s grain structure, but it was three or four times what regular lumber cost because divers had to go pull it up from Lake Superior. So there is a lot of beauty in older furniture!

I never get over how effective the carbide is on Bahco Tools! Regular steel scraper blades feel like plastic compared to those carbide blades! Also, the blades last a really long time, but occasionally I touch it up with a diamond sharpener as long as the edge isn’t chipped.

Thanks for the tip. The stock blade for the little scraper is triangular shaped, so when I get around to the last side, I'll try that on my diamond stones.👍👍

I wanted to show someone who has never ordered something from overseas that they will have to do some clean up to get them ready to handle with bare hands. If a teacher ordered them for a kid’s class and never worked with wood but wanted them for teaching geometry they need to know it will take some prep.

The biggest issue is silicone and anything I can do to eliminate old furniture polish is that may carry silicone I try to do. Also, any oil, grease and other materials from make up or furniture polishing products can get embedded in the shellac finish because it’s not a waterproof finish like polyurethane. So I find its simplest to just give it a good cleaning in case I have to do some sanding because you can sand silicone, and what it’ll do is heat up the silicone, and then it will just melt down farther into the woodfibers where it will keep the finish from attaching properly. I haven’t personally had this issue, but I talk to an expert refinishing guy at woodcraft, and he said the issue with silicone as it will cause blistering or bubbles where the finish doesn’t take and the only way to eliminate it is to do three coats of aerosolized or spray shellac before applying a poly. And I will admit, I don’t have the perfect answer, I’m just hedging my bets by starting off with an aggressive, cleaning to carry away any possible contaminants that will affect the finish down the road. Visually, cleaning the furniture where are some of the shellac as worn away, it’s just a lot easier to tell where the shellac starts and the wood stops, or vice versa.

It’s a Festool Mini Dust Collector with the Cyclone Separator on top. Half the noise of my Rigid Vacs from Home Depot but with greater pull I believe. People say Festool is expensive but try running a Vac indoors for hours at a time times days/weeks/years and you will see that the quietness is gold!

Minneapolis, Minnesota They have a tendency to break their own rails because the drawers are heavy and maple cracks along any grain that is wavy on the interior guide rails. So these go to thrift stores for cheap with drawers that are loose and floating around inside the dresser body. I met someone somebody whose mother was having him buy up Heywood Wakefield and storing it in his garage because it’s really hard to find where she lives. So when I delivered a piece to this garage, it was full of Heywood Wakefield. A dealer in a nearby suburb had a going out of business sale, so there were a couple of step tables that looked brand new!

There isn’t a great way to message back-and-forth especially with pictures, so I just made a quick video this morning because I’m about to do some work on that dresser anyway to clean off the handles and the drawers and get it ready for refinishing. Here is the link, and if it doesn’t work in comments, just look for it with the rest of my videos. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3S1aoN5eN6siZIsi=cb8kw6Yk0Z-Mdb8R

Thanks John! I wasn’t expecting a video.. it was so helpful. I have the confidence now to attack it, such a great piece I’ve had in my family forever!! Lmk if you have a social media platform I can send before and after pics of my dresser🤓

Glad I could help! I am slowly working on a website and I am on Instagram as the real flipping idiot or some kind of flipping idiot… Definitely an idiot who is flipping… And maybe you want to videotape your story and share it as you work on this dresser because April Wilkerson one said in her video if I don’t document what I’m doing how will people know about my cool ideas or something like that. wilkerdos.com/

Thanks for the comment! It is good advice for anyone interested in getting the best results from a basic planer. I plan to experiment with managing tear out when I have more daylight. I had hoped I could feed highly figured wood through this thing blindfolded and it would come out like glass, but that was not the case. I have a lumber business near me that puts out a lot of inexpensive ash lumber, so I use it a lot and I’ve had similar results on my little jointer with 6 inch blades no matter how light a pass I tried to take so I knew it would be a tough challenge, but I may make a video where I take similarly figured ash and feed it through with some arrows on the side to compare tear out in different directions, making the lightest cuts possible.

I appreciate the response! Chisel’s weren’t that big a deal for me and then I cut some dovetails in ash and Oh Man! I had to use some Narex mortise chisels to bust out the waste! So I look forward to prepping the edges to see what they can do. I plan to put them to work making a new portable Moxon vise for teaching hand cut dovetail work. The design I came up with should be a fresh idea on KZbin and I am documenting it to share. Thanks again!

Thanks. I may have to give that a try!

Thanks! All I can say is that it helps to practice.

Thanks! The ash borer beetle was a bummer for the ash trees out there but it created a lot of nice lumber for woodworkers!

Someone who has worked on this particular style of dresser, and is more familiar with it than I am in a city 2 1/2 hours north of me was interested in it, and they mentioned that it should stay off the carts that only support the outside parts of the dresser. If you look at some of the wider, nine drawer dresser‘s, they tend to have a foot hidden underneath the center but in the case of this dresser, there are two legs right in the front as part of the design that provide structural support. I guess you can’t see them because the dresser is facing away from the camera. But you would be surprised how much some of these dressers move and can affect drawer alignment. I had a dresser with a laminate top that was outside in the cold war. It was about 40° and that caused it to contract or change shape on the top to the point where the drawers wouldn’t close. But when it went into an air-conditioned space where the temperature was around 65 to 75. All the drawers went right back to perfect working order and the top would straighten itself out.

Some dressers have an upright one by two or one by three design, where there is a hardwood structure. That’s part of the base supporting the length of the dresser so some dressers can sit on those teeny tiny legs way out on the end and the strength of that hardwood running the length of the dresser, will support it fully. Here is a link to a page featuring Ethan Allen furniture, where there is a support underneath the center of several dressers. www.ethanallen.ca/en_CA/shop-furniture-bedroom-dressers-chests

I appreciate the feedback. I have a backlog of a coupe hundred video clips so I am just slapping them together and posting them with zero budget and not much time for editing reviews. If the subject matter is popular but everyone dislikes the same issue I will do Re-shoots down the road.

It’s a pastry scraper and not a woodworking card sprayer so no wood comes off. There is a no sharpness to the scraper edge but it is important to keep wood surfaces oiled in a kitchen, I agree!

@@theflippingidiot7705 I know there is no sharp edge, but every time you soak your board with water some of your wood fibres are rising and even a pastry scraper will break them off. But I don't think that's a bad thing.

@@skullwidget6958 It Is a bamboo fiber top which is pretty hard but also made with a lot of glue. It would be interesting to have a lab study it under a microscope and see if there is breakage versus fibers swelling and getting squeezed out like wringing a towel.

I didn’t know there was a sharpener! Reading the directions isn’t one of my strengths… But I will look for it and I Appreciate and Thank You for your comment!

It is meant for shellac and older varnish finishes. I had multiple pieces to work on and I wanted to see how it would do. The QCS people admit that their product formula at this point doesn’t work as well on the more modern “plastic” finishes. I wanted to try it on some older furniture that has a lot of molding on the drawers and curves but it is currently below zero where I am and I have to hold off on larger stripping projects. I have some small panels that I intend to do more testing with in the near future that are salvage pieces and a good “fit” for what the QCS Class Formula can do.

Some of the pieces had more modern finishes on them and it plain just didn’t work. Older finishes started to peel within minutes but 15 minutes after applying on some more modern pieces and it was like misting it with water. Stripwell addresses this issue. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6W8f3xjqapkh6c