We have one for sale for 18k. The output is far more than a Dillon. We have these running at about 5500/hr. There are pros and cons to both. If you do basic maintenance and cleaning of the machine it will just run. A 30 min clean and lube and it will run all day getting us 30-40k.

There’s only one screw on the back to adjust plus or minus! And if you have the same machine, you already know the screw to adjust and if you don’t have that knowledge, then you shouldn’t be reloading .

Thank you for all your negative feedback and how things “should” be done in your opinion. This video was made over 7 years ago and was made to be a walk along video as setting up the machine. This has nothing to do with optional add ons that may or may not be available at the making of this video. Furthermore, depending on powders this powder drop should get you within 1/10th of a grain on most powders which is plenty accurate. If you are needing/wanting something more accurate than you shouldn’t be using a progressive style powder drop to begin with which is outside the training of this video.

@@ExtremeReloading so much potential in your video just wasted. Drop the wrench, get a knob and grow thicker skin.

Will do. Thanks for the advice.

They are great machines. If I didn’t own and operate a manufacturing facility I’d probably find enjoyment out of it as well. Lost that joy years ago. lol. I’m honestly a bigger fan of the Hornady/lyman/mark 7 style powder measure. For a hobbiest it is probably fine but we have had a lot of wear issues and went away from them. In most cases it’s just a fun expensive hobby. Enjoy! Thanks for the comment.

You are welcome. I’m glad if was helpful to you.

I tried the spring and it certainly makes the machine run smoother. However, the spring is no guarantee the bell crank mechanism will return to the necessary position. I’ve loaded a couple of potential squibs on my XL650 when the spring did not do its job. Luckily, those rounds got caught by the powder check die. I strongly recommend sticking with the fail safe rod especially so on the 550 since you don’t have an available station for a powder check die on that machine.

I “think” it’s Dillon one. I didn’t buy it but I also know that at least at one point mr bullet feeders came with a funnel as well and it is possible that is where that one is from as well.

You are welcome! Glad you found it helpful.

We don’t run at those speed regularly. It just shows what can be done. We have found slowing it down improves reliability. Don’t generally have any issues with primers blowing up. Not to say it has t happened but very rare. As far as seating it comes down to brass prep and making sure the machine is tuned properly. Nothing Dillon does is “precision” so lots of tweaking on each machine.

You are welcome. Thank you for the feedback.

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.

This was a training video we had for when we taught reloading classes. We wanted to teach the basics of loading single stage but still use a progressive style press to help speed up the process. I normally recommend sticking with the same dies unless there are special circumstances.

Brass, yes. Camdex, no.

@@ExtremeReloading HI I HAVE 2 CAMDEX FOR SELL ARE INTREST

Your welcome. Glad it helped!

triggersafe1 Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful for you.

Jim D stoppages? What are you referring to or meaning?

Extreme Reloading, sorry, I should have explained. In watching your video the machine stopped several times and appeared you had to clear a jam at station #1. Was the jam caused by a berdan primed case or some other issue, such as a 22 case getting stuck in case you’re processing? Do you have a sensor at the decapping station that stops the press? All this info will help me when I start setting things up with my auto drive.

Jim D I don’t recall the exact issues. I know it wasn’t berdan though. Most likely bad rims and the fact that it was running so fast that errors were bound to happen. I never ran it that fast on a normal basis. If you wanted to sit and babysit the jams that would happen at that speed you could but slowing it down makes it a little more forgiving as the cases have more time to enter the shellplate correctly. Yes I had sensors setup at every station that had a die that served a purpose.

Extreme Reloading, I forgot about the speed you we’re running in the video. I will be setting up my auto drive on Thursday, so I’m trying to get a feel for potential problems until I get it set up with the proper sensors. Thanks for replying to my questions, the input helps!

Jim D just remember to run the clutches as loose as possible still allowing it to run. Speed is not always your friend. Just find a speed that works for you slow and steady is better than fast and stoppages.

@@curtislong1987 Yea, you make perfect sense. Thanks

Brian Sweeney yes, these cases are already fully processed and ready to load.

Ultimately you have some variance. You may find that your gun likes them a little longer. Most stock guns will be fine at the 1.100. Slightly longer is just less pressure too. At the end of the day it’s a pretty slight difference.

Extreme Reloading thanks

Jim D not technically but if it dropped down the tube it would jam trying to get pushed into the shellplate so you would then have to dig it out and start the machine back up. Unless your sorting by hand I can’t see how you would end up with a .40 mixed in. Possible similar calibers of 9mm or something like a 380 but nothing larger.

Extreme Reloading, Got it, thanks.

@@ExtremeReloading How do you avoid or prevent 380 from getting primed if it's mixed in the brass? Or Mak brass?

2Chanz as far as 380 I would normally catch it on my loading machine. It won’t expand properly and the bullet will fall off. As far as the stepped brass I have an expander die on my loading machine that when it hits that step it jams and stops the machine. Then I pull it and start it back up. A Lyman m die should do the same thing.

@@ExtremeReloading Thanks for the quick tips. I'm getting the RL1100 soon and planning on getting the powder check die for stepped brass but have no idea how to prevent mak brass or 380 brass. And I don't want to waste primers accidentally priming 380. Especially with the autodrive on my plans in the horizon I can't think of a way to be able to passively reload (just feeding brass to the case feeder, bullets to the bullet feeder and primer tubes). I currently have a loadmaster with the shell holder finger on the priming stage way loose so if a 380 acp brass goes in it's pop right out that station. Not sure if the same can be done on the RL1100/1050 especially on autodrive.

You are welcome! Glad it was helpful.

Isaac Temple can you give a bit more detail?

@@ExtremeReloading it feel like super tight, or hard to push down when decapping. Should it feel this way?

Isaac Temple yes it should. As long as your die is set properly and not screwed in to far as to where it is hitting the shellplate prior to you fully pulling the handle down then yes. Because it is resizing it you will feel the resistance. Some more than others. Please feel free to contact us at 888-702-2341 and we can answer any questions you may have as well.

You need to get Dillon's Extra Small Powder Bar, which is used for small loads like 32 S&W Long, e.g.

Peter Ryakhovskiy decap, swage, and size

Nice!

Your welcome! Glad it helped you.

Tlicious726 outside of the frame it mounts to we have pretty much redone everything. We have completely redone the controls for it. This allows for the mechanical clutch as well as an electronic clutch. It also allows faster speeds. We have hooked up multiple sensors as well. Then we came up with our casefeeder speed control which is on our site. Without that speeding the machine up doesn’t do much good.

Your welcome. Glad it was able to help you.