I see your point, but I kind of like leaving this thing running for way much more than the spindle motor is running. Basically for two reasons. I prefer to minimize bubbles on the line while the motor is running (I don't think it is going to smoke it, but bubbles are not as good thermal release agents) and then I want this thing to run after the motor stops because ideally we remove all residual heat to increase the spindle's life span. That doesn't mean we need hours (not even minutes), but I feel like only running the pump during spindle runs is sub optimal. This is my total gut feeling so I could be completely wrong. Not to mention you can still do the same with LinuxCNC if the G Code is not in charge of turning the pump along with the spindle. So your implementation is appealing as well! Thanks for watching!

You know, I forgot to mention this! Thanks for the heads up. Yes, I did add coolant for normal run time.

Hey, thanks! And thanks for watching!

Hey thanks for watching! I have to admit I didn't think of the "you-Tubers" pun until you mentioned it, which made me laugh. I actually have been calling the audience KZbinrs, but of course in this video I should have exploited such an opportunity much more. I still need to crank my stand up comedy skills, heh heh. I am working on it, I promise ;-)

Hi Sergio, it is hard to answer the question from that angle as there are many aspects which could cause the issue. When you say DC motor do you mean Brushed DC, or Brushless DC? What algorithm are you using? Is the problem because of over current or because of over heating? Could it be that the power supply does not have enough current capability, which causes the voltage to droop and reset the PAC5556? These are some of the items that come to mind, but there are probably many more worth considering. I don't think it is an issue with the PAC5556 alone, it is probably a combination of things. More details would help. Hope this steers you in the right direction and thanks for watching!

I think I know what you mean. If I were to face off the spokes (at least for this particular motor) I would end up with about 3 mm worth of material. Not sure what you want to screw in, but maybe it would make sense to TIG weld a plate to add some thickness. Way easier than milling a negative of the decoration to weld in place, albeit another option that I can think of. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!

@@CNCDude thanks for the reply. 3mm is probably too thin to do much with. I could press the face into casting sand and pour aluminum in to make a fitting plate without milling. Or braze a plate on (I can't really TIG, yet) using some of that aluminum brazing rod, although I never had much luck with that in the past.

Hey, thanks for watching! The PAC5285 can only give you about 20W of power maximum, whereas a reciprocating saw will probably be closer to 1000W. For a power tool of that nature you need a controller with external FETs. I did a video with a Harbor Freight reciprocating saw using PAC5523, if I recall. Any motor driver with 1A gate driver strength should be able to tackle the reciprocating saw application. Hope the info helps!

Well, the tool definitely makes it much easier. I think that if you don't want to get the tool you might still be able to pop them in and out, but it will probably be a tad of a struggle. They are called Loc-Line Pliers (although I think Loc-Line is a brand). You might also find them by Snap-Loc pliers. There are knocks off out there which still get the job done. I do believe the trick is to get the 1/4 inch ones. I added an Amazon Associate Link in case you want to look for different options. I acquired mine in 2015 and can't remember where I got them from. Hope the info helps!

I would say that looks like a really cool project! Parting from the premise there is not a whole lot of tools available to come up with an ultra custom solution, I would have to steer my thoughts into something revolving around aluminum extrusions. You can acquire these on pre-cut lengths, and there are plenty of already made brackets which might be repurposed to this endeavor. I will see what I can find out there and maybe can even do a project out of it. Not going to be available next week, but maybe sometime during the summer? Stay tuned!

Thanks for watching! Hey, my wife liked it so much she stole my second one... Her kitchen is not made of metal but hauling a large piece of steel does the trick! And yes, you need a machine shop ;-) heh heh heh

Wow, thanks for the Kudos, and thanks for watching! Checked your channel and you are incredibly enlightening with your content. Fantastic stuff!

@@CNCDude thank you 😁I'm enjoying yours as well. All the best.

Wow, that did not cross my mind at all, but I will be sure to give it a try next time! Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!

Heh heh, yeah, not my best "Roll Royce". I don't use it that often and at the moment it has pushed out pretty much everything I have needed to push out. The stuff that I work with will have a hard time bending the spindle. But hey, I guess if it breaks I'll have no choice to get me the one from Northern Tool I have been eyeing out for a few years! Stay tuned, maybe it makes it into the shop one of these days ;-)

Yikes! Yeah I can see where missing that nut can be quite the cringy experience. Reminder to not work on those ;-) Thanks for watching!

That sounds like some sort of thermal protection might be kicking in and you need for it to cool down before it can resume operation. Or maybe it has a leak and some water is coming in causing some sort of an intermittent short? It is hard to say for sure without seeing the actual device but those would be my first two guesses. They are kind of cheap implements, so it would not surprise me that your just needs replacing. Hope you can solve the issue soon!

Glad the content was able to help. Good luck with your project!

I have a Craftsman brushed DC, Milwaukee BLDC and this Bauer which I bought for the sole purpose of experimenting on it. The Milwaukee is the most expensive of them all, but it is a fantastic tool. The Craftsman is old and jams every now and then, but worked for me for quite a long time. The Bauer is OK for a few cuts here and there, but that's pretty much it. The mechanics have plenty of room for improvement! Thanks for watching!

Hey thanks for watching!

Well, that is quite the tricky one as of course the Tormach is cast iron so it is way much more rigid. Granted that you would not necessarily need that kind of rigidity to do wood and plastics, so if we are going to go with "rigid enough to do the job they were meant to do" then the Tormach would be merely a tad more rigid than the IQ. This is because of the vibrations I witness on the IQ, as opposed to the Tormach which is incredibly solid. But the IQ is not bolted to a rigid base so that doesn't help... Will point out the machine is incredibly heavy, so it is not light by any stretch of the imagination! Two guys would get hernias trying to grab it... Maybe three guys? I used my engine hoist. The cable management on the IQ is VERY nice! The sensors are an improvement over the Tormach as they are inductive as opposed to push button switches. The electronics on the Tormach are definitely much beefier than the IQ, but then again, the IQ is not a mill. I do wonder how does the IQ compares to the Tormach CNC router but that is something I have not even seen yet, so that one I will need to assess at a later time. Thanks for watching!

Glad to be able to share the little I have been able to grasp ;-)

Hey thanks for watching! Hope you are enjoying your Tormach, they are a blast, aren't they? Keep on CNCing!

It all depends on the speed. At maximum speed, when the duty cycle is at maximum, any further loading will cause the motor to lose speed to undertake the new torque requirement. If there is duty cycle available, the speed control loop will take over and adjust the duty cycle to compensate for the increase in load. All of this will happen regardless of what the material being cut is. I don't do a whole lot of steel even on my larger lathe, so that is not something I would do a lot on this small lathe. But my gut feeling tells me you could do steel as well. Do note, however, this lathe is not incredibly powerful to begin with, so it is what it is. Hope that makes sense!

Thanks for watching! Yes, I have to wonder why on Earth this is not a standard feature... Use it all the time!

Hmmm... I don't think this particular crane came with lockable casters, but I know what you mean. Anyway, in my case I have not used it for any engine as all I use it is for moving heavy machinery so at the moment the lockable wheels have not been necessary. Good input thought, thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the kudos and watching the video. Glad you enjoyed it!

You know, thanks for bringing that angle up because after I was done and I allowed myself to think and think I envisioned this was a plausible way of doing it. The spindle would need to be perfectly perpendicular to the YZ plane which means I might have needed to lift the spindle from one side until it was then parallel with the X axis, and then indicate so it was perpendicular to the Y axis. Maybe with some V blocks and some clamps. I am not sure I would use the actual spindle, though, as I fear applying pressure to the spindle walls may endanger the motor integrity. But a cylinder of the same diameter should do it. If I were to star a CNC router factory and I needed to machine clamps in any quantity more than one, I would go through such a scheme. Right now I don't think I have large V Blocks or two similar vises, so I would be back on square one, but this would be the course of attack for sure. Thanks for commenting!

Hey thanks for watching! Hope my pitfalls lead to somebody else's realizations ;-)

Hey, thanks for watching!

Heh heh, yes always trying to throw a joke or two. Not ready to drop work to become a standup comedian, though. Glad you enjoy them and the video! Thanks for watching, and the subscribe, of course!

Nice! I am not sure these ones would carry the Tormach, but I know they come in way sturdier versions. For my PCNC 1100 I use a pallet truck as I do not have a whole lot of access for the rear anyway. But good to know this is an option for much heavier equipment! Thanks for sharing and watching the video!

HI Ray, it is possible, but the real question is what NEMA 23 motor your Z axis has? NEMA 23 doesn't really say much other than the physical size of the motor from a mounting faceplate point of view. For example, any NEMA23 stepper will have a square 57 mm face plate with 47 mm part mounting holes. But what is that particular motor's rated torque? There are probably thousands of NEMA23 bipolar steppers out there with varying torque capabilities. A good rule of thumb is that if the motor is longer in physical size, you will often get higher torque. Hence, if the current motor does not cut it, you can add a stronger stepper. Of course this would also mean you would need to replace the driver, in the event it is not strong enough. That would probably be easier than going to NEMA 34, which will definitely require a new driver, not to mention definitely change the mount. Another way to easily determine where your capabilities lay would be to assess the weight difference between the conventional router and the spindle, determine how much current you are using at the moment, and how much current can you use reliably. For example, if the spindle is twice the weight, then you will most likely need twice the current to move it. If you are maxing out your current, then that is not going to fly. I did a quick search and apparently a conventional router is in the around 4 pounds, whereas a 2 KW spindle is closer to 10 pounds. That means you will probably need to increase the current by a little bit more than 2X. The other option would be to make the axis slower, but not sure you want do to that. Either way, good luck with your modification!

Thanks for your reply. The nema 23 is a 4.2 amp and 114mm long. Holding torque is 425oz.in . I'm not sure how to go about figuring out what weight it will take in relation with the ball screw @@CNCDude

@@rayleblanc7209 I think I found that stepper from Amazon, so I was able to pull the characteristics curve and get a few meaningful numbers computed. First thing to consider is that the 425 oz-in holding torque means that when the stepper is not moving, it will be able to keep a loading of 425 oz at 1 inch without losing its position. You can divide the 425 oz by 16 and that tells us this motor should be able to sustain around 26.5 pounds if you had the load at a 1 inch distance from the shaft center. However, what you want to know is whether you can move the weight without losing steps. As this is a stepper, the torque will decrease considerably the faster it goes. Assuming 600 RPM we start to see the torque reduced to 12.5 pounds per inch and at the maximum they recommend (1200 RPM), the torque goes down to 4.5 pounds per inch or so. Since this is the Z axis, it is prudent to assume rapids are not what your machine would be into, so my impression is you should be able to carry the 10 pounds or so from an actual air cooled spindle without a hiccup. Now, all of this math is assuming the torque loading is at 1 in from the ball screw center. Where this gets finicky is that a ballscrew is a combination of radiuses because it has the ball channel as well as the outer channel, so you just can’s say that the radius is half of the screws diameter. Anyhow, this can all be squared with a simple equation I found online which goes as: Td (in Nm) is equal to (F(in N) * P (lead in mm)) / (2000 * pi * efficiency). So you need to factor in your ballscrew parameters into the equation, but seriously you basically had me at "4.2A". That sounds powerful to carry the spindle you are considering. If you want to validate it before purchasing it, strap a 10 pound weight to the router while performing a job. My gut feeling tells me the stepper will just take it and move on! Good luck with your upgrade!

@@CNCDude Holy crap, you sure know your stuff. Thank you for taking the time to work out the math. I'll give the 10 pound weight a go and take it from there.

Thanks! Glad the summer is over and it's not boiling at the shop, heh heh

Hey Thanks for watching and discovering my channel! I do focus on the electronic aspects of tools as I am an electrical engineer, so to study the actual mechanism might not offer too many powerful insights. I can tell you, however, that when I compare this reciprocating mechanism with the other saws that I have, this one appears to be in the lower side of things. Of course it is not safe to compare this particular tool with the Milwaukee Brushless counterpart, but safe to restate the old adage "you get what you pay for." What I am trying to say is, it might work as a scraping tool, but don't expect it to deliver in uttermost performance... The board I have never uploaded anywhere but it is very similar to other designs I have on Hackaday IO. Do a search for PowerPACk32 and you will find my projects in there.

Hey, thanks for staying tuned in! Nothing like using CNC machines to build other CNC machines, heh heh heh. Lots of fun for sure!

Have not used the tools enough to notice this. It is really hard to know for sure the exact reason why this happens. Traditionally, there are protection circuits in the battery (usually thermistors) to ensure you are not charging the battery when it is too hot or too cold, but the temperature would need to be significant before these circuits trigger the protection. Of course if you are in arizona at 110 degrees F, and the battery has been exposed under the sun, then that is probably going to kick in. My impression is whatever temperature protection the tool system has, will be within the battery. There might be one in the tool for protecting the FETs and the motor, but I personally do not feel I have encountered this circuitry within the tool itself. Motors and FETs can get way hotter than batteries so you can design power stages without any kind of thermal protection and be OK (you would need to go past 150C for the hardware to start facing issues). Not so much with a battery, which might catch fire and that is not going to go well at all.Thanks for watching the video!