As shown in the video, I got the belt from www.webspareparts.com. Yes, it has a lot of screws indeed. I am also not sure if every screw is now back at its original place. No idea what the toothy metal-strip is. The black ground "wirey-thingy" might be the grounding of the floppy-cage. Sorry for the poor video quality. This was one of my first videos, filmed with a DSLR. I am still trying to improve my skills but I'm not a gifted creator...

...and while you're at it - please use some background audio (like you did in the last minute of the video). Either some music or just your environmental noise. I always have the impression of loosing audio. And - great video, thank you!

Yes, I am aware of my clumsy hands. Unfortunately, this comes with age. My eyesight is not what it used to be either. The battery was a challenge for me but it works so far. I'm sure you can do it better!

Thanks for your comment. I will shortly post another video, mainly about the usage of the plotter. Thanks to the internet, there are still many books, magazines and programs available online.

No, not in this case. Maybe it depends on the quality of the LED strip and the PSU. Also I have separated the LED PSU from the power supplies of the the audio equipment. I did not notice any hum.

Danke für den Kommentar. Ja, die alten Sharps machen viel Spass und sind teilweise günstig zu haben. Ich empfehle den PC-1600. Den suche ich schon ewig. Ist mein 'Traumsharp', aber leider schwer zu finden...

@@schimbobimbo I had the original PC-1600 back in 1986. It was very useful. It cost me about $600 with the complete package, which includes the PC, printer/plotter, floppy drive and a box of 10 pens. I also brought 2 - 32k expansions. One was configured as a RAM expansion and the second as a RAM disk. I wrote a lot of programs there

By switching the rung of the motor pulley the platter rotation speed can be changed from 33 RPM to 45 RPM. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqWzi62GjciCptE at 0:45

@@schimbobimbo thanks for this. I don’t fancy that I will have to lift the platter; I ordered it a a couple of hours ago. With the red rolls preamp to start with. Any other thing I may need? Oh this is my first record player ever :)

@@MichaelNwah Congrats to you first record player! In my view, the Pro-Ject is a good choice. It offers plenty of upgrade possibilites. Even an electronic speed box is available in case you don't like to change the speed manually. Since you've already ordered a phono preamp you're good to go - I assume you already have the power amp & speakers :) To get a decent sound out of your vinyls I'd recommend at least a stylus brush and an anti static record brush. In order to setup the TT, a stylus tracking force gauge is nice to have. In case the stylus is not pre-installed, you'll need a cartridge alignment protractor (should be included with the TT). Make sure the TT is placed as level as possible. You can use a spirit level to check. Upgrades for the Debut Series: www.audioadvice.com/videos-reviews/upgrade-your-pro-ject-debut-series-turntable/

The sound comes original form the system. It was recorded with another smartphone (Galaxy Note 9), placed in front of the speakers. Of course the "real, original"-sound cannot 100% be reproduced through phone recording and youtube playback (not even close) :)

Thank you for your comment. It was similar to me. I've started as a 10 year old with a Yashica YC-64 MSX1 Computer and later upgraded to a Philips VG-8235 MSX2. Since there was only very few Software for the MSX availabe in Switzerland and my pocket money was limited, I was forced to type Listings from Magazines or learn to program in MSX-Basic and Assembler. I did both of it :) This has changed my life and was the foundation of my future career!

Hi Szymon. Thanks for watching my video. I went for the Yamaha because it works (sounds) very well with both pre-amps (the Sansui and the Pro-Ject) as well with the speakers JBL L100 classic and the DALI. To my ears the sound is smooth, precisely detailed with a touch of warmth and with nice dynamics. It just fits so well the type of music I listen to. I very much like the design (vintage look) of the A-S 3000 and the excellent built quality. Another fact I like is that Bass/Trebel are completely kept out of the circuit if set to "Zero". The large torroidal transformer allows me to use both speaker pairs in parallel @2.4 ohms.

Sorry can't show a picture without record on it because I have sold this TT a while ago. I had no probs with controller frequencies. Maybe because the controller was about 1 meter away from the cartridge and it was behind the bookshelf. Therefore it was shielded by the wood of the furniture. I agree that sound quality is more important than the visual. Maybe you have used a cheap controller ? In the meantime I have added LED visuals to 3 different turntables and never noticed any noise degradation / variation.

It is just a common aluminum rail from the hardware store. In principle, any bendable strip of any kind can be used.

Stan Vu ...please see my reply to Steven.

Great thanks! Also, where did you get the plinth decal?

...it's not a decal...it's the "Wave by Parov Stelar limited edition" turntable: www.project-audio.com/main.php?prod=ps01-wave&cat=default&lang=en

Steven Espaniola ...from local supermarket: www.bauundhobby.ch/maschinen-+-werkstatt/beschläge-+-briefkästen/profile/aluminiumprofile/flachstange-alu-1-m-7.5x1.5-mm/C04051005/P4151852/de

Steven Espaniola Actually it should also work without the alu-strip. Just glue some feet directly to the LED strip and tape it to the turntable...Same result but cheaper an easier.

Leo Pard thank you!!!

Super, gefällt mir sehr gut! Warum die LED nach außen und nicht nach innen gerichtet? Vielleicht wäre das Licht gleichmäßiger, weil indirekt Wow, I like it very much! Why do the LEDs face outwards and not inwards? Maybe the light would be more even, because indirectly

That vid of the dude routing a hole in his player made me sick! ha

+Chad Taylor Hi Chad. I've sold the copter a year ago. I am sorry but don't remember the gimbal settings. Why can't u get it to work ? What exactly is the problem ?

Hey Chris got the gimbal mounted, (inverted) I spent yesterday trying to get it to stop shaking etc. Found that if I pointed the camera up to the sky and calibrated the IMU it worked!...BUT now the camera faces backwards??!?!? as in the camera faces the quad, not out the front?...I am not sure if I need to remove the IMU and rotate it or somthing like that. At least now the roll works fine....just need the tilt to work and face the right way :(

+opti Aero Hi optiAero. Sorry for the late reply. Yes I don't see a reason why an installation with the feyiu g3u shouldn't work.

Sorry but I don't remember how I got it out of the case and how many screws there were. It's too long ago. But I did not have any problems to take it apart. I can't check because I've sold the Disco in the meantime and moved on to the Disco Pro.

Thanks for the reply

Hi again Sean. I am not stepping down the voltage. The operating supply of the Tarot T2d is DC 7.4V - 14.8V. The pins are 12V DC. You can use a plug to connect the gimbal. No need to solder....

Hi Sean. I am using 4S as well. I took the power for the gimbal from the CAM PWR and CAM GND pins on the lower disco-plate.

check this: Settings for Tarot 2D Gimbal to Stop Shaking and Vibration ...and this: www.multirotorforums.com/showthread.php?13172-Tarot-2D-Brushless-gimbal-gains-issue ...or maybe this will help: www.djiguys.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1056&start=45

chris buchs Thanks man

Hallo RCfly ! Schöne Videos hast Du auf deinem Channel...muss Dich gleich abonnieren :)

chris buchs Danke Dir! Bist auch in meinem Abo ;)