The only experience I have with fast blinking turn signals is due to replacing incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs...and subsequently not using a load resistor to simulate the load of an incandescent bulb. This doesn't sound at all like your issue, so I'm actually not sure. I recommend you create a post over at VN750.com and you'll most definitely get some good insight into the issue.

Woah! What did that feel and sound like? And yes, my axle rod is facing the wrong way here, oops. It shouldn't make a difference, but regardless next time I do a spline lube I'll address this. I don't know when I'll get back to filming because I've been wicked busy at work. Hopefully around the holidays or when my dad visits I'll get some work & filming done. Stay tuned and I appreciate your comment. ☺

You got it! It makes me happy to hear that this video has helped you not just once but on two occasions. My next coolant change is due next year, so I'll be coming back to this video to remind myself about the process :)

@@CFG750 None of my VN750's are as nice as yours but I have accumulated two keepers, two for sale, and two no title parts bikes.

@@papatorr3669 Thanks! I was lucky enough to acquire it in decent enough shape in 2020. Although, when I got it, the stator was already pretty weak and on its way out...I just didn't know it. The stator ended up crapping out in 2021 at 17k miles I think. So I had a dealer do the stator repair. Fast forward ~15k and 3 years later...the stator is again crapping out! So before I ride next season, I'll be doing a stator repair video series. 😅

@@CFG750 I will definitely be watching your stator videos. The VN 750 are really cheap down here in Virginia. I don't know if it applies nationwide but I think it's one of the best bargains in all of motorcycling. I plan to keep two of them, one without a lot of accessories, the other is an OEM touring model. Although we just recently switched all the touring gear from the original bike with 35K miles to another one with only 8K miles. I don't think I have any stator problems, but it sounds like I will.

@@papatorr3669 Agreed, these Vulcan 750's can be had for cheap and can be fixed for cheap, IMO. I paid a mechanic to replace my stator and do some carb rebuild/adjustment work. It cost me $2k back in 2021. So this time around, I plan to make the stator as bullet-proof as I can by buying a Rick's Motorsports stator, or equivalent. I have always heard great things about these stators over at VN750.com. Bonus, I heard that a series-type R/R could keep the stator a little bit cooler, therefore extending its life even more.

I believe the cam chain from a VN750 should also fit the VN700. The 700cc engine is just a slightly downsized version of the 750cc engine.

I pinned this helpful tip. Thanks for sharing!

HAHAHAHA! I know, right. Could have been a deliberate choice from Kawi to save some pennies back in the 80's during design. Could be an oversight? Regardless, it sucks and your comment made me lol.

RIGHT?! Truly almost nothing else quite like it.......a high revving and smooth V Twin, shaft drive, no need to adjust the valve timing, easy to work on with basic tools. Just overall a great first bike, a great last bike, and anything in between.

Nice! Awesome to hear that you're still able to enjoy riding. The Vulcan is really smooth, and it's something I appreciate time and time again when I'm out there for 2 hours at a time cruising around the back roads of Lancaster PA.

Dang, that sucks Brian. I think the part you broke may be #92005 here in this parts diagram. Check me, though, make sure I'm right: www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/2004/vulcan-750-vn750-a20/carburetor

Linguagem

I will be doing the ear shave mod in the future. Apparently you get some cool intake sounds with the pod filters!

@@CFG750 dont do the tuxedo mod for the stator unless its absolute percission engineering. Mine was off a little and the stator made contact with the rotor causing it to tear of some of the tin protecting the magnet. It was dangerous and messy il put it to you like this i would rather take the engine out than risk what happened to me.

@@scowlsmcjowls2626 Oh yeah, the Tuxedo Mod is definitely not for me. Besides, I want to learn how to tilt/remove the engine to not only help others, but also I really like the VN750 and plan on keeping it for a long time. It'll be a good skill to know. ☺ I appreciate you checking out my channel and commenting. 😎

@@CFG750 i changed out an engine in a shadow in about a half a day there is nothing to it it just comes out handy you take off a piece of thd frame and just have it supported at the right hieght. The vulcan 750 is a heavy engine tho. I will be changing mine now over the next couple of days

@@scowlsmcjowls2626 Good luck and enjoy the process! If you need any insight or wanted to share progress updates/pictures with a bunch of VN750 nerds, head on over to VN750.com. 😁

I think that if a few cranks kill your battery, you need a new battery or something else is wrong with the electrical system. Do you have an AGM battery that's <5 or 6 years old max? Check out my 2024 Spring Start-up Tips video here at 3:23 for what my bike sounds like cranking up, for reference. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKHOmYyOi5mpoqcsi=jQVyEIaOBeh3y12w&t=203

@@CFG750 i think my cam chains might of been a bit tight😅

@@scowlsmcjowls2626 lol what'd it sound like? I was really scared when tightening mine...I wanted to show what it sounded like but I didn't want to damage anything. 😁

@@CFG750 well it wont really turn and i think i snapped a cam chain. This is all on a bike i got that needed new engine witch i have a second hand one for it so i played with the other one had a serious low end knocking noise when running but now will not turn over so its time for the new one to go in😃

Thanks homie. I'll be replacing my stator this year and making a video series about it, so stay tuned!

@@CFG750 im at it here right now myself the engine in has the mod and the one out im stealing it from doesnt

@@CFG750 after doing the job i can offer some advice. Be pacient taking offthe side engine cover i broke off a threaded lug and a little piece of the crnkcase on the spare engine. But i think it was becase the engine ws idle so long. Plenty ow wd40 on the gear change spindle. Aluminium engines are soft as shit. The tuxedo mod is best done with the engine out to free the cover out inhand then its a oneengine out only. Respect to any guy who did it. Its a bit of work but made it handy on the otherbike i have to say. Mad that kawasaki cased it in that way. Well i got itswopped outanyway and hopefully can repair the crankcase if it comes to it. Alot of metal shards in that area ona low milage enginei mean alot i wonder wtf happened. Mechanic told me the bearings in the engine cant be changed they are set into the casing. The cam chaintensioners cant save it on mine it says 14,000 and there is engine noise manual tensioners didnt fix s guy said now leave them as loose as you can hence the spare engine that due to all the metal gilings i have my doubts on too. Looks like they get noisy. Minewas a barn find il be out onmine thursday it currently goes well up and down the housing estate road.

You could also do the frame cut and instead of welding it back afterwards you could get some flat stainless steel and make 2 links and drill and tap the frame somthing like the honda shadow to save recutting the frame everytime

Ive got mine done now im getting 14.3 volts charge so im good to go

My pleasure, I'm glad these videos are helping you to consider purchasing one for yourself. Good luck, and if you have any questions at all prior to possibly buying, create a free profile over at VN750.com where you can create a thread to chat with owners from all over the world.

This and the R/R relocation are my two favorite mods. My homie, I'm so glad to hear my video helped you. No joke my Vulcan starts up on like the first or second combustion stroke while cranking while hot, I should make a compilation. Unfortunately, my stator is toast. So I need to take care of that first. :(

Center stand is definitely nice, but use this as an opportunity to treat yourself to a bike jack ;)

@@scowlsmcjowls2626 Yes, good call. I pinned this comment so others can see it.

@@scowlsmcjowls2626 kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6G7doqfgbyigpIsi=7EZDuJaoB1KcUGJH

Check out this parts diagram here, I'd recommend at least a backup of 92055A. For reference, I'm at 30k miles and my 92055A O-ring is still in tact.

@@CFG750 good, thanks!

It can be tricky to find turn signal relocation kits. I couldn't find one, so I got an LED brake light/turn signal combination unit from eBay...something like this: www.ebay.com/itm/273059088867?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-170536-586452-3&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=273059088867&targetid=2291088838959&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1025398&poi=&campaignid=20950050414&mkgroupid=160786912216&rlsatarget=pla-2291088838959&abcId=9370741&merchantid=118844416&geoid=1025398&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwooq3BhB3EiwAYqYoEqQPvx0OHpLnGsraf0nbTRO3K5pyXeosQn0N5YjdCMOfW5nK2tQyahoC4MoQAvD_BwE Just be aware that this may not pass inspection since certain regulations may stipulate the turn signal light must be a certain distance away from the brake light.

Thanks for the comment. You are very welcome. Actually, this video idea came from another viewer who left a comment on one of my other videos. My stator crapped out on my this season, cutting my riding season short. I plan to replace the stator myself and when I do I'll make a video series about it, and I'd also like to revisit this and show more about the fuel/air/vent hoses and lines. Stay tuned :)

I only found this out quite recently when I was re-wrapping my pipes. But the pipes you see here are stock OEM pipes from Kawi. The only difference being that the previous owner cut out and removed the "Goat's Belly" (AKA Expansion Chamber) and put on aftermarket exhaust tips.

You're welcome. Happy modding! 😁

I can't help at the moment, sorry bud. I have a full plate between work and kids and life...not to mention my Vulcan's stator is dead! I want to focus on fixing up my Vulcan hopefully this season, 2024, so I can get back to riding in the Spring of 2025. Check out VN750.com and search through old posts to see if you can uncover anything about your issue. Or you can also create a free account and post your question/details/etc. I wish you luck. I think you'll find exactly what you need over at VN750.com...it's the best place on the internet for everything related to these bikes.🙂

Thank you so much! My stator failed on me this summer, so I'm still accepting that face, but it will also allow me the opportunity to document this in a video series! Reading comments like this give me the confidence needed to tackle the engine tilt/stator replacement job and deliver a high quality video procedure. 🥰

You're correct, this is not the textbook fix nor is this fix for everyone. Personally I really didn't want to pull the engine just to fix this oil leak. To the credit of this "shortcut fix"...it did work and has stopped oil from leaking on my driveway and garage. I was meticulous throughout the process and am happy with how it came out. It's not going to be permanent and I understand that. This got me back on the road last year when I didn't really have the time or bandwidth to pull the engine. Besides, it's not meant to be a permanent fix and I hope I didn't sell it this way. I'll be pulling the engine later this year 2024 into 2025 to replace my stator. So I'll be fixing this oil leak the "proper way". Truthfully, I'm not much concerned about dirt ingress into the engine. But I will be sending an oil sample for analysis during my Fall-2024 oil change and I will share that here on YT and over at VN750.com, I wonder if anything could show up in the numbers if this oil truly has gotten dirtier as a result of the way I fixed this oil leak. Stay tuned and I appreciate your comment.

Thanks! I responded to a similar post over at VN750.com, not sure if that was you. But what I suggested was to change the coolant if you haven't done so already. Then you could always test your thermostat by following this procedure: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6G7doqfgbyigpI&pp=ygUVdm43NTAgdGhlcm1vc3RhdCB0ZXN0

Awesome! Check out VN750.com if you haven't done so already, that's the best place on the internet for anything you would need about this bike. Speaking of being on a strict budget, that forum can help you troubleshoot (and mod!) so many things on this bike.

No need, I used to have that multi meter! Is it the red 7 function digital multimeter? If so, set the meter to DCV 20. This means the multimeter will measure the DC (direct current) volts up to 20 volts, which is all that's needed for this simple battery test.

Thank you so much! I hope others can learn from my challenges here, along with just learning more about their VN750. ☺

@@BobbiWorley-rs1zz Thanks for the comment. The Vulcan 650 S is a cool bike, I really like it! But, I know nothing about it unfortunately. Check out a forum that’s dedicated to the 650. For example, I’ve learned everything I know about the Vulcan 750 from VN750.com. Perhaps there’s a similar forum for the 650?

@@CFG750 thank you for replying. Unfortunately there isn’t anything I can find as far as the fuel lines go. Thank you tho

@@sigmalawpenske The clear vent line is the petcock vacuum hose. It goes from the bottom of the petcock to the carburetor on the left side. Yours will most likely be black. The only reason my hose is clear is because my OEM hose had a hole in it, and I replaced it with some clear fuel line. Does this help you?

Hahaha, sure. Want to sponsor this video and get me some K&N air filters? 😁 Check out the coaster and marble mods (two separate mods). Marbling is forcing a marble into the reed valve assembly air hoses of the emissions equipment (I point to it here in this video at 1:52). It helps to prevents deceleration exhaust pops without removing equimpent from the bike. kzbin.info/www/bejne/baTSnIN6jbSbesk The coaster mod is removing the reed valve assembly and replacing it with a coaster plate. You also remove the rest of those reed valve assembly hoses, the air suction valve, and then would need 1-2 (I can't remember) crank case breather filters. It also helps to prevents deceleration exhaust pops, but requires removing emissions equimpent from the bike. Both of these mods interrupt the usual operation of the Kawasaki Kleen Air System, which uses a reed valve to inject fresh air into the exhaust stream during the exhaust stroke to help burn off any unburnt fuel. It's a way to help emissions, but the theory is that this is also why the exhausts can be so "poppy". Those pops you hear are actually explosions resulting from the unburnt fuel still left in the exhaust stream combining with the oxygen and then combusting due to the heat in the pipes. Or at least that's how I understand all of this. Here's some reading material for you. Let me know how you make out! www.vn750.com/threads/marbling-coastering.74001/?post_id=961337#post-961337 www.vn750.com/threads/coaster-and-or-marbling-mod.108833/?post_id=1322564#post-1322564 www.vn750.com/threads/help-with-the-marble-mod.104087/?post_id=1275135#post-1275135 www.vn750.com/threads/heres-everything-i-know-about-the-reed-valves-kawasakis-kleen-air-system-aka-pair.108358/?post_id=1316362#post-1316362

De nada. Me encanta compartir mi experiencia contigo y con los demás. Y me da mucha alegría que mis videos te ayuden hasta el final en Paraguay.

Checkout my pickup coil mod video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXyqfJ2eZrFsd9E It's a common issue on these Vulcans that can be fixed by adjusting the gap of the pickup coils.

@@CFG750 yeah. I have seen that before. But for my little experience maintaining a bike I find this kinda tricky to do myself.. I will need to gain some trust. Yesterday my bike had issues starting after 80km drive (hot engine)

@@bertoost6391 I understand. Maybe what could help you get more comfortable is first checking the easier things. I kind of rushed right to "pickup coil mod"...but there's other (simpler) things to do first. 😁 How's the battery...is it older than 5-6 years? First check the battery voltage following my procedure here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3vUYWOdYpJlqdE Next check the spark plugs. Are they in good condition and gapped accordingly? If these check out, and your engine runs fine other than the hard hot-starts, the next thing you could do is the pickup coil mod. Also feel free to start a post over at VN750.com introducing yourself and your issue. There, myself and the other members can help you out.

Oh no, how'd it break? The only way to get in there and replace the tie rod is to tilt (or otherwise remove the engine) from the frame. Otherwise, there's not enough clearance to get that left side stator/engine case cover off and away from the frame. (You can see this demonstrated in the video link below). Sorry, homie. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWHMn4uAmtZ5g9ksi=KWQf9_hXj21zIwKy&t=514

@@mikehenderson7008 Thanks so much for the comment, Mike. I haven’t changed the front turn signals to LED. I was planning on it, since I’ve got an LED headlamp and brake light/rear turn signal combo unit. Just haven’t gotten ‘round to doing it. Create a post over at VN750.com, because over there I and others can show you the wiring diagram, maybe that’ll help with your troubleshooting. Plus, others have done exactly what you’re trying to do, and they’ll be able to help out. ☺️

@@CFG750 My post is up, thanks.

You can either get a turn signal relocation kit (which is rare to find). Or you can do what I did and get an integrated turn signal/brake light combo kit from eBay: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=Vulcan+750+brake+light+and+turn+signal+LED+combination&_sacat=0 Another option is to get a license plate bracket with turn signals built in.

@@CFG750 ah I see. Unfortunately integrated will get me pulled over here due to the laws

@@erebusros7807 Dang, that stinks. Try those other options and if you can't find anything, check out VN750.com and search thru historic posts about this same issue. You can also create a new thread and ask for further advice/options. It's an issue a lot of us deal with. 😃

LMAO! I've been there with cars but never my Vulcan. So I don't know what the specifics are with the process for these bikes. But create a thread over at VN750.com and introduce yourself/the issue. Ask for recommendations for spark plug wires and if you have any questions at all as you're doing the repair, come back to that thread and create another post. Me and the other members will help you out!

¡Hola! Gracias por ver mi vídeo. Primero, ¿drenaste todo el aceite? Necesitas drenar el aceite de dos pernos diferentes. Revisa este vídeo: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iZa5o6CliLN7aJo He usado Motul 10w-40 sintético durante 15,000 millas y aquí hay algunos resultados: www.vn750.com/threads/heres-a-detailed-analysis-of-my-4-000-mile-oil-18k-miles-to-22k-miles.107326/ Pero Motul es caro. Así que cambié a un aceite popular que usan muchos propietarios en VN750.com: Shell Rotella T5 (convencional) o T6 (sintético). Ahora tengo la Rotella T6 en mi bicicleta y cuando haga un cambio de aceite este año, analizaré los resultados y haré un video que muestre las diferencias entre Shell y Motul (espero que no haya ninguna). En cuanto a las bujías, acuda a su proveedor automotriz local y solicite bujías con punta de platino. Ellos le encontrarán el ajuste correcto y estas bujías de platino durarán el resto de la vida útil de la bicicleta. Obtuve bujías de platino en 2020 con 13.000 millas y ahora tengo 31.000 millas. No he necesitado hacer ningún trabajo ni volver a separar estos enchufes.

@@CFG750 muchas gracias por su comentario, una pregunta para checar el llenado de la mirilla del aceite hay que poner el descanso de enmedio? O no es necesario?

@@fredyespinosa1297 Sí, pon el Vulcan en el caballete central. Compruebe el nivel de aceite con el motor frío.

@@CFG750 OK muchas gracias!!

@@fredyespinosa1297 De nada! ☺

I think white lithium grease is fine, I've rocked that on the front splines for 15k miles. But if you're already lubing the drive shaft splines with moly, it's one small extra step to simply pull the driveshaft back (towards the rear of the bike) and lube the front splines like I show here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fam5lX-gdpVqqMU

Esta es una gran batería. www.amazon.com/Yuasa-YUAM62H4L-YTX14AHL-BS-Battery/dp/B0018F3MP6?th=1