@@hartmutkleinjung9399 Thank you friend!!!

@@dodgersfnshepard8673 I like it too!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear I just got a block myself today in thr mail. Need pistol grips and a planer handle..nothing super sexy awesome like a bow

@@dodgersfnshepard8673 Paduk makes anything sexy! lol!

@@dodgersfnshepard8673 Paduk makes anything sexy! lol!

@@Helmbowman thanks man! It was born of necessity… lol!

That would be a wonderful idea!🤩😍🤩😍

@@georgehaydukeiii6396 hahaha!!! Clearly there is!!! But I still appreciate you watching to the end!!

@@mossback6026 should be a fun ride! Stay tuned!!!

@@samfulks4896Thank you for watching!

@@RedmanOutdoors366 thanks for the support!

@@rushchaser Thank you!

@@knolltop314 you can say that again… lol!

@@musaadfelton3909 hope you enjoyed it!!!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear definitely, as always. 😁👍

@@christophertracey7201 Thank you for the feedback! I can’t even tell you how many bows I’ve abandoned in the past that could have been salvaged and turned into great bows! Running this channel has really challenged me in that I have to see my projects through to completion once I start filming the series. You’d think that I’d just make the bow to completion before making the videos, but I just haven’t been on that cadence from the very start… no real need to change now! lol!

@@Mwwright79 Thank you so much for watching, and the kind feedback!

@@RedmanOutdoors366 thank you!!!

based on what you are describing, you have a pretty severe hinge in that limb. I wouldn't be very optimistic about salvaging a bow damaged to such a degree... for starters, I'm not sure what you would be trying to accomplish with a heat treatment unless it's to try and straighten the fiberglass (which I haven't tried and don't believe that I have seen any information out there that would suggest that the method would work.) And secondly, you can't just salvage a severe hinge with heat. Lastly, if this damage occurred as a mode of regular use, then there is clearly a design or construction flaw in the bow... Heat and epoxy cannot fix those things. All that having been said... what are you going to do with it now? Doesn't even sound like it would look impressive hanging on the wall as decoration or in any part of a collection, so what do you have to lose in trying? If the damage isn't as bad as I'm envisioning, you may be pleasantly surprised with your repair. If it does't work - well, then you went down trying to fight the good fight. Either way the bow will eventually end up in the trash... I still would resist the use of heat, unless there is a very compelling reason coupled to success... Good luck!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear thanks!! I'll give it a try and at least it could be "hanging in the wall" worthy

Thank you so much for subscribing! As for your question, the answer depends entirely upon the quality of the grain in your bow stave. Typically, wood is stronger in tension than compression - which is the case with those that you mentioned, but the grain has to be in tact from tip to tip on the back of the bow. If there is any violation of wood fibers, then you will want to contemplate a backing to help ensure the tension safety of your bow. the degree of violation will dictate the type of backing necessary. A solid (wood or bamboo) backing will be required if the grain is severely violated, and even then, may not be enough. Minor violation accompanied by fear of any kind of failure would require a "Safety" backing like rawhide, or fiber backings. It never hurts to have a backing on a bow, but the absence of a backing, if possible, is your best bet.

@@rushchaser thanks for giving it a watch!

@@ianbruce6515 cutting the original tips off was a bit disarming, but they did turn out pretty nice!

First, thank you for watching! On about 95% of my builds, no matter what wood I’m using, I add an 8” riser block right in the middle. I make the fades very short to begin with so I can choose top/bottom limb orientation later - check out my video on grip layout for more info on this. The thickness of the riser block is usually about an inch. So that would be in addition to the thickness of the bow at the grip area. After that, I generally add a little more thickness 1/4” or so the fill out the palm area when I decide which side will be the grip.

Thank you for the kind words!!!

I’ve been in the habit of heat treating the belly lam ahead of construction. I’ve heat treated bamboo bellies during the tillering stage and found some lamination problems - mainly the edges of the bamboo thinning and curling up at the glue line where the heat treat was performed.

String follow in and of itself is not necessarily a bad thing - there are a host of bows that have deflex purposely put in them as part of the design. It’s compression that robs the bow of cast - that having been said, bamboo and wood do not behave the same. I’m still learning how to deal with bamboo in belly applications because the compression properties are very different from that of any wood I have encountered. Getting there though!

@@meadowlarkadventuregear oh I see. Makes sense yes. I'm here for all of it 🙂 I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and findings as you go along with your builds. So in this case. With regards to the poundage. How do you think the bamboo is holding up in compression strength after all of your builds so far? Why does those Japanese bows hold up so well and for years and they use the same method to make bows. Back and belly with a core laminate? I wonder if it's because they build longer bows so the strain on the bamboo is not that much 🤔

Thank you for following along!

Thank you!!!

Thank you for following along! And she does feel good in the hand! lol!

Thank you! And thanks for watching!

@@benspeedschannel888 Thank you for watching!

@@bienyamientoefy1923 Thank you my friend!

@@samfulks4896 Thanks for following along!

@@Mwwright79 let me start by saying, thank you for watching and for your feedback! Then I’d say that anything is possible, but my experience tells me that the working limb is way too short, and for that matter, too narrow for even the most compression resistant wood to survive let alone provide enough spring to match this bow’s current performance… if looking for something better in compression, then I’d say horn is the next logical natural material…

@@meadowlarkadventuregear That makes sense. Thank you!

@@Mwwright79 I’m running Olsen 3/8” 6 tpi typically. I’ve also run a Timberwolf 1/2” 4 tpi , but as you suspect it did rip up some bamboo on the long, flat surface cuts. I still used that blade for several bows and backings just cut well outside my pencil lines lol!

@@Mwwright79 Thank you for watching! And for the kind words…

@@rushchaser Thank you!

@@stephenballard3759 yes… the working limb is pretty short. It’s why I chose Bamboo for the belly. It may compress, but it won’t give up. Most wooden applications would fail if not very wide and quite thin. I prefer a more sleek design.

@@superdav95 Thank you for watching!!!

@@musaadfelton3909 so glad I can help you along your way!

@@shanek6582 if it’s not taking compression, it’s breaking - or at a minimum crushing and taking compression fractures. Most wood will certainly fail in place of bamboo in this design of build. The few that would not would easily exceed the amount of set that the bamboo is exhibiting and have terrible cast. To match bamboo, the wooden counterpart would have to be much wider to withstand the strain - so much so that the design would become cumbersome and unattractive in my eyes. The compression that the bamboo is taking is not a bad quality, just one that needs to be managed properly to elevate the material to premier performance. To answer your question though, good compression woods include: Eastern Red Cedar, black cherry, hickory, ipe, yew, Osage and a host of others that I’m sure just aren’t coming to mind right now.

@@DironMc Thank you! Hope you’re able to live out that inspiration soon!

@@christophertracey7201 looks can certainly be deceiving lol! Thanks for watching!

@@bienyamientoefy1923 Thank you Bienyamien! I’ve very much admired the work that you’ve shared with me! Thank you for your continued encouragement!

I have found bamboo to be just fine in compression. Both bamboo flooring and whole bamboo. It does depend somewhat of species, but bamboo bellies have existed, and done very well, in Japanese, Chinese, and some SE Asian bows all along. .

The fact that it does take more compression is a fair point, but it doesnt FAIL in compression readily. Bamboo flooring, for instance takes a little more set than a comparable weight wood, but refused to fret.

@@user-zg1zl9xx4t very few natural materials are up to the task of a bow like this - horn being the only obvious answer - and I may be taking up experiments in that direction soon, but to be clear - bamboo taking a lot of compression is not a navigating thing. It’s a trade-off for elasticity. Only in the rarest of instances will any piece of wood survive the compression demands of this design and even then, it would only survive - and the bow would likely be a wall-hanger.

@@brettgunnells9308 Thank you Brett!!! Seems I have a reputation to uphold! lol!

Thank you for watching because this video is hard to suffer through! lol! I’ve learned a lot about editing since then