You don’t need to connect it to anything. Only two wires are needed for this connection. The green wire (or any other wires) is just an extra wire.

You’re right, I wasn’t real clear about where it goes. I do make a reference to it between 1:40 and 1:50. The full size grids can go in any location except one ( because the manifold outlet is in the way). That one place is where the partial grid goes.

Yes. It is a standard bead. It has kind of a barb(?) that hooks over the little “wall” in the track. It “locks” in when downward pressure is applied. To remove from the track you have to lift it up and out (sometimes it can be very difficult).

Inground liner replacement is quite a process and requires precise measurements (and is almost an art form). There’s ground water issues that can cause problems once the pool is pumped out… and often floor repair as well. I have over 20 years experience with liners and I’m still learning things. I believe that an inexperienced homeowner can do a replacement… but only with lots of education beforehand. I suggest you watch as many videos as possible and understand each step of the process. It’s a lot of money to remake an incorrectly made liner and even more to rebuild a wall that has moved. If you decide to have a professional do it (which I recommend) get at least 3 estimates from companies that have been doing liners for at least 5 years. Also check them out on the BBB website. There are plenty of people that can put a liner in wrong.

@@AlliancePoolWorksInc we actually have an above ground pool but liner is like this one. That said I am still taking your advice. Thank you

It absorbs into the ground

With a vinyl liner pool the liner is your water barrier. The walls are usually plastic, metal, or fiberglass. The floor is usually made of a porous mix of Portland cement and vermiculite so the floor is kinda soft. So ground water can actually permeate the structure and get behind the liner any time you have a heavy rain and drain out as the water table drops back down. During a rain when there’s lots of water in the ground, it can cause your liner to “float” if the water level behind the liner is higher than the water level inside the liner. This is probably what loosened your liner enough to lift the bead out of the track in places. So this technique is simply doing what caused the problem to begin with. Some folks incorrectly assume that they need to remove water from the pool during a rain storm to prevent it from overflowing. However, there’s already lots of water all around the pool in the ground and letting the pool fill up and overflow helps keep the liner tight against the push of the ground water. I recommend waiting a couple of days for the ground water level to drain down before lowering the pool level down to its normal level to prevent the possibility of the liner floating.

@@AlliancePoolWorksInc thank you so much for taking the time to clarify this for me!

With floor wrinkles I suggest doing this right after a heavy rain. You may even need to pump some water out of the pool to get more ground water underneath it. Once the wrinkled floor section is loose, use your pole and brush to sweep and push your liner back into place as you add water in the pool. It’s not usually easy but it does work most of the time. Otherwise you’ll have to drain out most all of the water and reset the liner, and using a vacuum behind the liner to keep it in place as you fill it back up.

You totally sound like me! I can't tell you how many times I've gotten so mad at those anchors that my wife has had to stop me from taking a sledgehammer and chisel to the damn things, lol!

for real bro

Also, THANKS ALSO TO U!TUBE !!!!

Seems like the top part (key/cover assembly) needs cleaned and lubricated. This video should help with that. The most important thing to note before disassembling it - is if the pointer on the handle is over the key opening or not ( some are not). Other than that it’s pretty much how this guy does it. Replacing the whole assembly is also an option if this job becomes too difficult. Best of luck. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHSmip6kaMxoeKs

Water

Wondering how it went for you? It’s kind of scary but it works. The more water you put behind the liner, the easier it is.

A vinyl liner pool has a floor that is not watertight and any water that is behind it will work its way into the ground I am a part of nature again. There is no need to try and remove the water from behind the liner,. It just dissipates into the ground.

I would definitely give it a try using this method. However- because it is such a short amount of liner to pull - I would use a large pot of really hot water ( just not hot enough to burn you). At that age, your liner is probably getting stiff and the hot water should soften it up some. If the pool water is still real cold you may want to pour some more hot water on some towels or a folded blanket placed on the vinyl in the pool to provide some insulation from the cold pool water. Most likely the product you see in the track is called “Liner Lock”. If you Google that you will find out more about it. It’s fairly easy to install around the whole pool using a 6” long bock made from wood flooring and a hammer. The little hump on the one side works really well to set it into the track. If want piece just a few feet long, some local pool guy will probably give you some. Hope this helps!! Let me know how it goes!

FYI -The liner along The back of the steps is held in place by a long rod placed through a loop / sleeve built into back of the the liner and screwed into the back of the step. Here is a link to a video that I found showing them installing some. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJ-menqslJtqkJY

@@AlliancePoolWorksInc Thanks so much for your quick and thorough reply- I'll give it a try and let you know how it works out. Much appreciate your help and generosity. Pat

Yes, that is from a bad spider gasket.

Never patch….jeans are made of an organic fabric, will be eaten by chlorine. You are giving crap advice, never patch. If one needs patching lmao..replace them all.

Stains behind the liner is actually algae growing behind the liner. Usually it’s from a lot of ground water in the area and a lack of chlorine in the pool. This little bit of water should not be enough to cause algae growth since it would be naturally absorbed into the soil through the pool floor. The structure behind the pool liner is not built to be watertight. Stains behind the liner can usually be avoided and removed by raising the Trichlor level of chlorine. That is the kind of chlorine dispersed by using the 3 inch chlorine tablets. Pouring a bucket of dissolved Copper sulfate (root killer) behind the liner will also work its way down and kill the algae as well.

Any tips on removing the old gasket? I am struggling and have been able to remove all but the outer circle which is not budging.

You are reason I shared this video....! Glad it helped

Yeah he put it in upside down… bad instruction

@@aliibrahim9683 if you open up a new valve, like this one, you will see that the ridge is up. (please post a picture if I’m wrong) The ridge is to provide a better seal and it wears down over time.

Ridge side goes up - just like in a new valve.

he put in correctly but i was expecting he will glue up the entire bottom which he did not ..

Flat

Easiest way to get the top off of the filter is to remove the large clamp that holds the halves together and then turn the pump on. Usually the water pressure gently pops the lid off. Removing the manifold can be very difficult. Often the lubricant that was put on the o-ring that sits in the groove at the top of the pipe (that the manifold slides over) is dried up and is makes getting the manifold off next to impossible. Putting the backwash valve in the backwash setting and running the pump while twisting, wiggling, and rocking the manifold will often get it to come off (be warned- wear eye protection- this can be very messy and can get DE in your eyes) In the worst cases I undo the nuts holding the filter to the backwash valve so I can lay the filter on its side so I’m not trying to pull up. Then I pull with a twisting, wiggling, rocking motion. Many pool professionals (including myself) have permanently damaged their backs during this procedure !! BE CAREFUL. !!

This set up is for a NEGATIVE (infinity) EDGE pump. There is already a Pentair TR140 with its own pump for filtering the pool water. Most negative edge pumps in East Texas don’t have any kind of filter on them. I have a video posted here of how I found it - with a little TR60 on it. Client was thrilled with the tripling of the volume of water going over the edge.

Yes, sometimes it takes a few days or more.

Thank you. Ive been helping a friend with the exact same issue as your video, looks pretty much identical. But we haven’t had much luck, its still cool here and we figure we need to let the water warm up so we can stretch the liner more. Right now it is very stiff. Any thoughts or words of wisdom? Greatly appreciated

@@MrMonahan28 The warmer the better. You could lower the water level down to the bottom of the skimmer then use towels draped over the liner with hot water poured on them to heat up the liner so its a bit flexible. Then quickly pour several buckets of nearly hot water behind the liner to float it up. If it’s in the deep end or you have sandy soil you may have to wait for warmer weather.

Thank you, we’re definitely going to wait for some warmer days and might just try the towels, thanks for the reply.

Honestly, not sure. I don’t see how running a garden hose for about a minute or so (trying this method) could hurt anything. I would be hesitant to add more than 3 minutes of water because the water will want to come out from under the wall quickly causing erosion from inside and that’s never good.

You're welcome!

Yes, most likely. Without seeing it I can’t give you any real details but I have fixed nearly 100 liners with this method and have had 0 problems.

And stretching the liner along the tile line is exactly what this method is trying to avoid. By adding water behind the liner the tension is released enough to get the liner in track and as the water dissipates back into the ground the liner down the whole wall is stretched, and not just the tile line.

Thanks for the encouragement John, I like short concise videos with no wasted time. So that’s what I strive to produce. I sure hope it was helpful.

Thanks for your feedback, Don. Could you please share what kind of glue you recommend? I prefer Goop because of it's stretchiness. The few times I have had to replace a gasket I have installed it has been because of chlorine damage due to a chlorinator installed too close to the backwash valve. The stretchiness is helpful because it will, with some effort, pull out cleanly from the valve body making replacement much more easy than silicone sealant or super glue. I have been servicing pools for over 30 years (some for 20 years straight) and have replaced quite a few of these gaskets but have never had to replace one due to glue failure nor from not cleaning the valve body enough. As far as lube, the manufacturer does not recommend lubricating the gasket, key, or the valve cover o-ring - nor are they lubed when it comes from the factory.

3M Nitrile High Performance Rubber and Gasket Adhesive 847 RTV and other gasket maker type products don’t adhere to Buna-N rubber. Hence the ease at rubbing it off, 😂. These sealants also have a tendency to peel and cleave quite easily. While this is great for cleaning up a mess where a mess shouldn’t be, it’s not the correct product based on the materials involved. The manufacturer recommends an cyanoacrylate type glue. Basically super glue. It’s really difficult to use since it sets immediately. The manufacturer also suggests the alternative I listed above, 847. 847 is the perfect solution. Its set time allows for proper working time and it actually bonds to rubber and the plastic (PVC) housing. Not much is needed, a very thin bead. 847 will require some effort to remove, but it’s not overly difficult and it’s better to do the job with respect to permanently securing the gasket and not wholly with ease of replacement in mind. Hey, do what you think is best though!

So sorry for the delay in responding to your question. Somehow I missed it. I usually wait until I have enough water to get the hose down about 2 feet and then I start pulling. It’s really about alot of water at one time to get it to come away from the wall and give you some slack.

It difficult to understand exactly what the question is because there are several variations of track installation. If you could post a picture or email one to me at [email protected] I’ll see if I can help.

Tom, I’ve fixed nearly 100 liners using this method and never had a problem like you described. #1 If there’s a bubble it’s because the liner is too big to have the proper tension on the walls not because water is causing it to bulge. Anytime the ground water level is below the water level in the pool, the water in the pool will force the water behind the liner back into the ground. Also, there is enough UV inhibitors in pool liners that the sun will not make it brittle. Dirt and oils cooked into the vinyl by the sun’s infrared heat is the cause for liner failure along the waterline. #2 If you will notice carefully I am using the screwdriver to gently push the liner into the track by using the side of the screwdriver - not the very tip. There are ways of using a screwdriver while inserting a liner into the track that, if done properly, will not end in a damaged liner. I’ve been working with vinyl pool liners for over 20 years and can speak from experience.