HI Falcon Claw! Thanks for your excellent comment. Please let me know the right way to cut it. Thanks! Best Regards, Chuck

شكرا على كلماتك الرقيقة ندى فوزي. يسعدني دائمًا الرد على أي أسئلة. Thank you for your kind words, Nada Fawzi. I'm always happy to answer any questions. Thank you, creator. The video helped me a lot... Greetings

مرحباً بك. يسعدني دائمًا الرد على أي أسئلة. آمل أن تقوم Google بعمل ترجمة مناسب.

Do you want me to keep making molds?

Fico feliz que tenha gostado do vídeo, Brandon. Fico sempre feliz em responder a qualquer pergunta. Glad you enjoyed the video, Brandon.I'm always happy to answer any questions.

Thanks, Deepak. What part of the world are you in?

Glad you enjoyed this, Daljit! You can see the video was shot a few months ago - They are dressed for cold weather!

Thanks for your excellent question, Joel. I've never measured the shrinkage on the VLT. It is super low and that was what I wanted. Try some VLT to see how it works with your fine filigree. I think it's great for undercuts. Notice that on Castaldo's advertising they use a picture of a filigree butterfly in their mold. Assume that Castaldo wants you, their customer, to be super happy with their product ... and to buy more. What if you have a filigree model and mold it with VLT and it does not work. Will you be happy? I trust Castaldo to recommend products that work. I use wax injection pressures between 3 psi and 14 psi. Low pressures for smaller items, higher pressure for items I want to fill quickly and completely. I always expect to experiment a bit with the pressure. I have a good idea of what to expect, but, always depend on the notes I make when I experiment with a new item to guide me when I come back to it for production later.

Hi Tina, Thanks for your excellent question! You can use two pieces of board, maybe 1x2 by 4 inches long. Place one piece under the mold frame with the stuck mold in it. Place each board under the right end and the left end. Then, take a smaller piece of wood, almost but not quite the size of your stuck mold. Center that piece of wood on top of the mold taking care not to touch the top of the mold frame with that piece of wood. Tighten the platens of the vulcanizer to squeeze the mold through the frame. Next time, spray the inside of your mold frame with teflon spray available at any auto parts store. Please tell me how this works for you. Thanks!

@@chuckhunner I’m a little concerned about using Teflon as it is a carcinogen. I tried using the paper backing yesterday on the inside of my 1” frame yesterday it worked amazingly well. I’m using LTV. I had less trouble with my smaller frames but I really appreciate your videos and advice! I’ll try the wood options next time I’m stuck. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

Perfect Tina. Glad you're finding solutions Thanks again for your interest in my craft.

Glad you like'em. I'm always happy to answer any questions

@@chuckhunner have you tried vulzanizing 3d printed models. Thats what I will be trying to do. Any tips? Will be using vlt silicone, and how do i pack the mold so that i dont need as much pressure not to crack the model? Also should i coat the model with oil or lubricant to prevent it from sticking to the mold?

@@TheToxicFPS I've vulcanized them. Spray with fine mist of teflon. I carefully packed the mold with bits and pieces of VLT so that the silicone did not have far to flow. I prefer pouring a two part RTV mold around 3d models. They never break that way until I cut the mold. Then I can still get injections out of the RTV mold.

Thanks for your excellent question, Saadoun Al-Anzi. The answer depends on what type of mold you are making. Some mold rubbers, especially silicone rubber, 'likes' aluminum. The mold compound sticks to the mold frame. You can prevent the sticking by spraying the inside of the mold frame and your mold plates with teflon spray. Protect yourself from breathing the spray. See my video at kzbin.info/www/bejne/joPJqZiPh8-sb5Y to unstick your silicone rubber mold. Then, spray the metal with teflon spray next time to prevent sticking.

Glad you found value here, NL. Thanks for watching!

Many ways to do it, Nicholas. Thanks for your excellent comment

Glad you found value here.

Never. I've never tried it. I imagine that the blade would slip more easily, and, possibly cut me! Cutting silicone rubber molds is much easier and smoother than cutting natural rubber molds.

Thank you for your excellent comment, Sri Gayatri. At minute 13 I demostrate how the air lines, the vents, are cut into the rubber.

Isse सबसे अच्छा hota एपी एयर लाइन कट कर dete ... issai sabase achchha hot epee eyar lain kat kar daitai

Not a joke, Phillip. We had a great time walking the labyrinth.

How would this be a joke, Phillip? Thanks in advance for your answer.

Hi Anand, Thanks for your kind emojis for my video. May I answer any questions about mold making for you?

@@chuckhunner Ham hindi me bat kar sakte hay

@@anandwaikar2511 Yes, We can talk in hindi when I use translate.google.com

I'm glad you found the video helpful, Sahith.

Thank you, Juanjo. My pleasure. I'm always happy to answer any questions.

Thank you, Andres.

Thanks for your excellent question, Two Cent. Several people contributed. A gentleman named Anthony came to our factory in 1976, I think, and showed Robert Weinberg and I a choppy water, or ripple cut style of mold cutting. Before this we only put 4 locks into our molds, one in each corner. The ripple cut holds the two halves of molds together better, IMHP. The technique of cutting air vents through the sides of the mold came from a mold cutter at another factory in Albuquerque, who's name I don't remember. I only use silicone rubbers in my molds now, not natural rubber.

@@chuckhunner Zig says the ripples are referred to as locks in the mold, to prevent any shifting, virtually leaving no flash or mold lines on a casting, minimizing and eleminatimg any mold lines and cleanup.. I was with Anthony when we taught you and robbie the basics, you guys picked it up pretty well. Good luck!!

@@twocentproductions5326 Thanks to Zig for your good wishes! Glad to hear from you again!

Gracias, Jairo!

@@chuckhunner Felicidades un abrazo a la distancia 🤗

Hi Mr Rez, Thanks for your kind words and eagerness to learn. The film containers are only a way save mold compound when you are short on materials. I find that flat rectangular molds inject much more predictably. The greater surface area of the flat molds allow slightly higher wax injection pressures to fill the mold more quickly and accurately. I cut the vents to the edge of the film canister mold in the same manner that I'd cut vents in a flat mold.

Thank you for your compliment and excellent question, Sambora Jewelry. I preheat my vulcanizer to the specific temperature. I use a thermometer to measure the temperature. It actually only takes my vulcanizer about 13 minutes to reach 350°F, or 177°C.

@@chuckhunner thank you Chuck! Wher do you get that pirometer for meaisurering temperature?

@@sambora.jewelry My first pyrometer was a simple cooking thermometer. It went up to 450 or 500 degrees Fahrenheit. I used that to measure the temperature in my will vulcanizer. Later, when I could afford it, I bought a digital pyrometer through Rio Grande Albuquerque.

Hi Haji, Thank you for your excellent question. This is a great way to connect with me. Would you like to make your own molds, or just buy them from other people?

@@chuckhunner sir i known about gold casting very well how to made .i want business with you

@@@irfanmuhammadriaz926 I am mostly retired, Mr. Irfan. Thank you for your interest in my services.

Hi Marcin, Thanks for your excellent questions. I avoid parting lines by cutting the molds with a sharp blade. If I feel the blade dragging or see striations in the cut surface, I know the blade is less sharp than it could be, so, I change the blade. I also do my best to make long, even cuts along the plane on which I want my parting mark. I avoid making short, choppy cuts next to the model as much as possible. Even vulcanization of the mold, even and flat pressure on the mold plates on the outside of the mold during wax injection, wax that is not over-heated, and the lowest injection pressure you can use and still fill the mold cavity. Also, time your injection so that you stop injecting wax as soon as the mold is filled! Whew! That is a bunch of tips. Looks like several more videos need to be made. :-) Thank You for your inspiration, Marcin. I'm always happy to answer any questions.

Thanks for your contact Tara. I hope you have plenty of business.

Dear Nasir, Thank you for your excellent comment. Please let me know how this is not good? Best Regards, Chuck

Dear Salvador, Thank you for your excellent question. Castaldo gold natural mold rubber comes in a narrow hardness range between 36 and 38 Shore. Castaldo natural white mold rubber ranges from 40 to 42 Shore. These two rubbers are particularly good to use together since their % of shrinkage is so close: 2.1 and 2.3 %. Castaldo No Shrink Pink has a hardness range of 45 to 48 shore. Castaldo Titanium is 46 to 48 shore and what I consider a wonderful rubber. Firm like that is best for large flat models. But, it's shrinkage is about 1.4%. To answer your question, gold Castaldo rubber comes in one hardness range - 40 to 42 Shore. I'm always happy to answer your questions. Best Regards, Chuck

+Meridian Frost Hi Meridian Frost. I need to see the object and know its size to quote a price. It is probably in the range of $30 to $50. Send me an image or two, as well as its dimensions, and I'll be able to quote a more accurate price. Thanks!

+Chuck Hunner great! Which email address would you like me to send it to?

+Meridian Frost Please send the image to this email. Thanks.

+Meridian Frost ... [email protected] ... Thanks!

@@chuckhunner Hello sir, I am also cad cam casting jewellery

+chordsimple Howdy! Thanks for your interest in my molds. I purchase #12 (curved ) blades from riogrande.com as well as #11 (straight) blades and knife handles. Bottle opener comes from a kitchen store. C-Clamp from hardware store like Home Depot or Ace Hardware.

+Chuck Hunner Thank you so much!

+silentscribes I cut my molds rather than make powder separation molds so that I can control the parting mark more precisely. So, you are exactly right. Thanks for your excellent question!

you are welcome you do great freaking work