Thanks for job!🇧🇷🇧🇷🤝🤝

Any recommendations for if the latch itself is stuck but the seat folds down? 😅

Between 3000 miles and 4000 miles the oil turned dark amber color. During oil the change chunks of sludge came out I’ve never see that. What on a 135,000 mile truck with religious oil changes at 4000 miles with premium oil. Prior owners used royal purple and I used mobile one.

Thank you very much for the video Peter, is it normal that during the summer with a lot of heat and the air conditioning on the oil temperature rises to 135 degrees?

Merry Christmas man, roll with whatever goes, you've had a pretty good year on the tube I thought, nice growth 🤙 hope you and the family have a great xmas and new years!

Merry Christmas Mate You got any time off in the holidays we should catch up

thanks for the video man

Did you bring it or buy it?

Thanks man, I gave up this afternoon trying to get it out. Now that I see that it can actually come out, I'll give it another crack tomorrow.

I replaced my leak off loom couple of months back and managed to not loose a clip thankfully however the rear drivers side is still weeping though nowhere near as bad as it was. I could not get a genuine return pipe loom at the time and was supplied after market. Is there some trick to prevent them weeping ?

I replaced mine couple of months back and managed to not loose a clip thankfully however the rear drivers side is still weeping though nowhere near as bad as it was. I could not get a genuine return pipe loom at the time and was supplied after market. Is there some trick to prevent them weeping ?

hey bud, did you have to drop the front diff oil at all ? even if both sides have to be done. thanks

Many thanks for the video. What year of manufacture is the car? Any tip to confirm actual pump model required without having to remove old one?

Where the hell is the dipstick to check level?

Great video! Do you think that the 2.0 did variant is gonna work the same?

Nice 👌 I like that tie down strap tip that mint 👌 Is there any specific tools that would make that job easyer pipe spanner etc

Don't forget your post gas setting to cool the Tungsten down after done with weld and hold it there until its done blowing about 7 seconds.

Ok , thanks for nothing .

Hi Sir , i love your videos. I have changed like you the return pipe but im haven an engine system fault. Im not finding the problem. Can you help me with a suggestion , what to do ?

He'll do fine...i took the old fashion route, practice, practice, practice. You learn so much from the mistakes that you make !

I learned how to tig aluminum the old school way with pure tungsten. I was recently having issues trying to weld aluminum with a new machine. Apparently the new technology in todays machines doesn't allow the use of pure tungsten anymore. If you have an inverter type machine you should be using ceriated tungsten.

Aluminum is quite the fun material to weld. When everything goes well it’s fun, when things go bad it’s frustrating to say the least lol. I have a couple tips for aluminum, hope they help: You want to keep a slightly longer arc gap than steel, aluminum will jump to the tungsten otherwise. Settings wise (unsure on what you can adjust) you want to be at 60 to 200hz (higher narrows the bead and lessens penetration) a/c balance around 70-75% EN (25-30% EP or cleaning). Make sure to prep the material super clean and wipe it with acetone to clean the oils off. Beyond that aluminum likes a lot of heat at first, medium heat in the middle of the bead, and no heat at the end. Use the foot pedal a lot to achieve that. You will get the hang of it in no time, keep up the practice 👍. Good catch on the leaky gas hose. Edit: I almost forgot, always fill in craters at the end of welds or they will crack. Often times they crack before the weld cools. Aluminum is hot short sensitive, so you want to avoid heating it super hot and letting it cool fast (aka molten weld pool to solid metal). Try to ease on/off the heat.

lol it's not that hard

Thumbs up for giving it a try

Clean up where your planing on welding.the cleaner the material the better.

I had an “oil production” issue in my wife’s 2011 Honda CR-V K24 engine (not Direct Injection). Fuel dilution was at nearly 5% using GC method. Replaced all injectors with new Honda original and no change. After several ~3K oil changes with Valvoline Restore & Protect, I am below 2% on the last 5K oil change. The data tells me it is working.

Reminds me of myself and my attempts to weld haha. Practice makes perfect ah

I have no doubt Paul will make it back home mate after all he's driving an old Holden lol. Have a great day. Choppersrule1

very simple engine, but the cooling system is its downfall if ignored

Awesome mate

I got the same engine at 56k miles burns a lil oil and am thinking of trying this oil but i cant find it anywhere in the uk and the import fees are not very attractive 😢

It was an awesome weekend cars and chilling with mates

Thanks Shane for the excellent and detailed video. I just noticed today when changing front brake pads on my 2010 ZH Outlander, the inner CV boots have torn on both sides with grease escaping. The car has done 400K kms and not having any issues with the outer CV joints (no noise) so thinking of following your procedure to change the inner boots but on both sides. Looks pretty straight forward on the drivers side as you’ve shown. Is it the same on the passenger side? Wondering if there’s a snap ring to lock in the axle on the other side. I’ve got the manual gearbox. Hope you can help with some advice. Thanks again. Clear and easy to follow video. Craig

Keen to see how your experiments turn out. Running on a well looked after RX330 and on a LS430 with patchy service history. Both have been running Mobil 0w40 in my ownership which is known for cleaning. I feel R&P is very expensive here in Aus; but its OK when on special (recently 30% off)

Awesome weekend!

Interesting to know Hyundai owners are the same from one continent to the other! Lol