@@jamesgeorge4874 Yep, fitted a 2mm aluminium base gasket on my BSA B50 500cc single to knock the compression ratio down as l struggled to kick it over, l could have done the same on the Honda by adding a thicker base gasket instead of machining the inlet valve pocket, however l still would have ended up taking the 3mm off the top of the outer edge of the piston down to 56mm to match the cylinder head plus re profiling the dome on the crown, as it was running very rough and hard to start due to the pre ignition as l had inadvertently created a squish band. Running nice now and start’s easily, but now the carb jetting needs looking at, so have just ordered a kit of main and pilot jets and will have a play around with that until l am happy with it.

@@TheCADengineer Nature of the beast.

Hi, The bearing in question are the crown wheel bearings (one on either side of the crown wheel) The bearings came in a kit as; the 2 crown wheel bearings, the inner and outer pinion bearings, the 2 crown wheel oil seals, the pinon oil seal and the 2 O ring gaskets. However I should still have the old bearings in the workshop, I will get the bearing number off the crown wheel bearings later today when I am in the workshop and let you know. Regards, Brian.

Hi, The crown wheel taper bearing number is 32008 and the size is 40mm i/d x 68mm o/d x 19mm wide. The originals are KOYO hi capacity. Landranger Deeside 4X4 sell them but they are quite expensive, however any bearing supplier will have them, but they should be good quality. Regards, Brian.

Thank you. I appreciate it

I was able to order the bearing from Rockauto based on the model/part #. My other issue is that I might have to replace rear diff side cover. There was some wear and tear on the ring where the axle seal fits. The seal doesn't fit tight. If you are able to provide an email address, I can send you the pics. Thanks

@@asifkadodia3822 There is some great gasket jointing compound that I have had some good results from which will work for the O ring seal and on the outer edge of the oil seal if you have some damage on the faces. Its called Simply Instant Gasket, I buy the 200ml size as in that size it comes in an easy to apply auto dispensing tube, or you can get a 310ml size but you need a mastic gun to apply it. The link below is where I bought my last tube from. Regards, Brian. www.amazon.co.uk/Simply-SR-005-Silicone-Instant-Gasket/dp/B00CI86RCM

Hi, The cheap Chinese rev counter I bought will work from single to multi cylinder engines, so from one to eight cylinders by pressing a button on the rear of the unit, the first push and hold for a few seconds activates the mode, then each time you momentarily push the button the rev counter needle moves up; i.e. one press moves it to 1,000 rpm position which equals 1 cylinder engine (I pulse = 2 full rotations which is 720 degrees of engine rotation for a 4 stroke) Two presses moves the needle to the 2,000 rpm position for a twin cylinder engine (1 pulse per one full engine rotation = 360 degrees) Three presses moves the needle to the 3,000 rpm position (one pulse every 2/3rds of engine rotation = 240 degrees) and so on, when you have set the needle to the correct valve for the number of cylinders press and hold the button for a few seconds and the value is stored. The pulse signal comes from the points side of the ignition coil. Not sure how you unit is configured, but send me a link to the instructions and I will have a look. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer mine is a speedo/tach combo that has only pulse rate setting that goes from 1.0-140.0.

@@dwightnix893 Where do you pick up the pulse signal? In the instructions it should tell you what the values are for the PPR signal (pulses per revolution) once you find out what the pulse values are equal too (eg. 1.0 = 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation) Make sure you are picking up the pulse signal, as you should get a response from the rev counter whatever the pulse setting is.

@@bsa_brummie7775 Completely agree, good job. Les

@@leslieaustin151 Hi, l reduced the height of the outer top edge of the piston by 2 millimetres and re profiled the piston dome as much as l could without compromising the strength. Regards Brian

@@leaflee2066 Hi, l am still learning how to edit videos before l upload them, l will have a look at the audio of the intro to see how to reduce the volume, then save the settings for future videos. Regards Brian

@@leslieaustin151 Hi Les, I think l have inadvertently created a squish band on the outer edge of the piston as the hemispherical chamber in the head is smaller than the outer diameter of the piston which is creating massive pre ignition, so l will see if l can modify the piston a tad more. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer OK Brian. As the cylinder is now bigger than originally I presume that flat-topping the entire piston would still give higher than standard compression ratio, (provided there is metal enough on the piston crown to allow that). But that squish band might still be a problem. Would the metal above the top ring allow the piston to be turned down a little lower? Or the head allow for some metal removal - but not near the valve seats? I fiddle with motorcycles and seemingly can’t bear anything to be ‘standard’ so I do see your problems here! Les

@@leslieaustin151 Hi Les, took as much off the top of the piston that l can, l don’t want to make any changes to the hemispherical head as l may need to revert back to the standard barrel. Regards Brian

Hi Les, l use an old digital camera that has a video function for KZbin, unfortunately it can only record sound in monophonic and it looks like KZbin just uses mono on the left channel. I don’t do any video editing at the moment, l just stitch the videos together and upload them, however l am teaching myself how to use DaVinci Resolve editing software which l created my intro with, l would imagine there is a function in the sound section to enable splitting the mono signal to the left and right channels, bit of a horizontal learning curve with the software, but slowly getting there. Glad you enjoyed the videos as l enjoy making them. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer That sounds fair enough! Thanks for the explanation, I can continue to turn the headphones round! Les

Hi Les, Just finished the engine so the video for that will be going up shortly. Also found a good petrol tank, its a tad shoddy on the outside but no rust on the inside which is unusual for a UK Jap bike of the early 70's. So frame next so I can drop the engine in and see how it runs with the big bore kit. Regards Brian.

@@juleswatt3248 Hi Jules, lt looks like all the running gear is exactly the same between the 100 and 125, however the engine top end is different, but not just the bore (stroke is the same) but it looks like the cylinder head has smaller valves. The big bore cylinder and piston kit has just turned up and the barrel doesn’t fit so l have just had to machine the barrel to fit the crankcase. Next job is to modify the piston which l will be looking at tomorrow. Hopefully l can machine it to miss hitting the inlet valve, but l have ordered a standard barrel and piston just in case l can’t get it to fit. The video will be up in the next day or so to show success or failure, hopefully a successful result. Regards Brian

Thanks, just waiting on seals and dust shields and the forks are done.

No worries, hanging on to it for a while yet though. Regards, Brian.

Hi Colin, The Daytona is finished and now my daily ride, the BSA B25 hybrid greenlaneer is also done and l have taken them both to a couple of shows and l will hang on to both of them for a while. I have just sold my BSA B50 that l did a couple of years ago as l have only been out on it once this year, it’s quite a tall framed bike and if l stall it running up a steep slope I have to roll it down to a flat area to kick it over, the 500cc single is a bit of a beast to kick, no problem for someone with a bit of weight, but l am a tad small and light for it. So the finished B25 has now replaced it, it has a lower seat height and is a lot easier to kick, so looking forward to some fun on the trails with that one, however will be a shame to get the new paintwork dirty. The little SL125 is just for a bit of fun, l was going to keep it standard but l have just bought a 150cc barrel for it but l will have to machine the piston crown and valve pockets to get it to fit, so it will be an interesting project. Regards, Brian

Luckily the crankpin and conrod have survived, so don't need to split the bottom end.

Thanks for your positive comments, Regards, Brian.

The engine is coming out today, hopefully the bottom end is OK.

Thanks for the positive comments. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Where we are in Cornwall we are very limited in getting any paintwork done, even car repairs without driving a long way, so you end up doing as much as you can by yourself. Regards Brian

Hi, Thanks for your positive response, I normally just enjoy the spanners and hammers work and I don't mind painting/spraying the frames, but I try to avoid doing the tanks and side panels, however I have to say I enjoyed doing the tank work on this one and the spraying. I bought a Tiger Cub project a few years ago, it was fully stripped in bits, but the main reason I bought it was the tank and mudguards had already been professionally sprayed and I only had the mechanical work to do. Same with the B50 as it has an alloy tank and you are only doing small strips of paint and vinyl decals. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer I understand that one, in the past I have had my local car garage spray mine B44 and B50 really reasonable. I am due to retire shortly and your VLOGS are encouraging to have a go. I watched the rebuild on your B50 with interest. Keep up the good work. Regards, Geoff.

Hi, thanks for the positive remarks. The basecoat blue is Renault Bleu Majorelle Blue from the ebay link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145785564057?var=444879798501 which is just an acrylic aerosol The clearcoat is a 2 pack 2K aerosol also from ebay as per the link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404746236738 On the next video I use the chrome look silver for the tank side panels which is just a plain acrylic Hycote branded aerosol called Chrome from my local motor factors. There is more detail on the paint finishing on the next video which I will be uploading to the channel in the next hour or so. Regards, Brian.

Hi, thanks for the positive response, l will put a short video up of the finishing spray job. Regards Brian

@@shanetr86 Hi, l wouldn’t order anything until you open it up and have a look as they are renown for clutch drag. Just remove the primary case and strip out the plates, wash all the old oil off the the friction and plain plates with some petrol or solvent, then ruff up the plain steel plates with some course production sand paper. Assembly them back dry and adjust up the 3 pressure springs, test by kicking it over with the clutch lever pulled in and it should be disengage easily. The oil is only there to lubricate the chain. Dependant on the year will determine what oil goes back in as the later T100’s (post 1969 dependant on serial number) share the oil from the engine, earlier versions like my 1968 the oil in the primary case is separate to the engine. ATF (automatic transmission fluid) works well and it only takes a small amount in the bottom of the case (check the manual) and don’t over fill. They all seem to suffer with clutch drag even if they have only been standing for a week or so, they recommend kicking the bike over with the clutch pulled a couple of times the free it off before starting otherwise you struggle to get it into gear. Hope you get it sorted. Regards Brian

Hi, thanks for the positive comments, good look with the Bonnie tank rack. Regards Brian

Hi, Thanks for the positive response. Regards, Brian.

Hi, Thanks for the nice comment. Regards, Brian.

Sound OK, but I like the idea of having them easily removable plus like the challenge. Regards, Brian.

Hi, I am using the dealers electronic workshop manual and it gives 200nm for the pinion nut, below is a copy and paste of the section below, it's for the 2012 - 2014 FREELANDER 2 - LR2 - VIN: xxx201 onwards (RHD) 8. Install and new pinion shaft nut. Using the special tool tighten the pinion shaft nut to 200 Nm (147 lb.ft). Renew Part: Differential pinion shaft nut Quantity: 1. 9. WARNING: High torque application. CAUTIONS: The special tool should be turned counter clockwise to install the pinion shaft nut. Do not use air tools to install the nut. Failure to follow this instruction may result in damage to the component. The pinion shaft should be rotated through two full revolutions by hand before the torque measurement is performed. Make sure the specified torque to rotate the pinion shaft is not exceeded. If excess preload is applied to the joint the pinion shaft should be removed and a new collapsible spacer, pinion shaft tail bearing, pinion shaft tail bearing cup and pinion nut must be installed. NOTES: Keep checking that the pinion rotates freely during this procedure. Follow the animation to make sure the drive pinion front bearing is installed correctly. Freelander has done over 25,000 miles since fitting the new bearings in the diff and still runs very smooth and silent. Regards, Brian.

Hi Pete, My Daytona is the last generation before they changed to the crankcase to primary case vent system so has the separate oil for the clutch side (1969) The vented system that you have on your 72 Daytona was designed to improve crankcase ventilation/breathing, however worth having a look at how the cable gland is where the alternator wires come out of the casing as that's where mine was allowing water in, although they do say the later breather system might cause condensation in the primary case as you have hot crankcase air being displaced into the cooler void of the primarily case. Still worth checking the cable gland though. Regards, Brian.

Hi Colin, I think my cables were for a T120 with twin 900 series concentrics as the 2 cable adjusters were fully wound out that's why I had to make the 2 brass outer cable extenders which are about 23mm long and thats with the twistgrip closed adjuster fully in. I have adjusted the max twistgrip stop so the bottom of the slides when fully open ate level with the top of the venturi opening, but when riding the bike I will never open them that far. My T100R is also fitted with chokes which are a single pull from the lever on the bars to the the twin splitter under the tank, now I am getting used to starting and riding the Daytona you never need the choke, just give the carbs a tikkle and she starts first kick from cold. I was going to remove the chokes, but the choke lever is part of the upper section of the front brake lever which is standard for the 68 and 69 models according to the parts book. Looking at the1970 and on twin carb Daytona's it looks like when they started fitting indicators as standard and the clutch and front brake lever changed to the type with integral switches the choke was no longer fitted, which shows It's no needed. Regards, Brian.

Hi, you are correct, looks like thats general engineering practice for fitting bearings to get the maximum clearance as it was hard to see that deep into the casing for the pinion bearing outer races. Anyway the old girl is still going strong with no diff or bearing noises. Regards, Brian.

I was in Douglas IOM in 1969 to watch the production race over the weekend, at the B&B where we were staying at was a guy with a brand new K0. He started it up for us and gave it a red line blast down the prom, it was a gorgeous looking bike, he had taken the removable baffles out for his trip to IOM to watch the TT and the sound was awesome. The early CB750 was the bike l always wanted but was always beyond my reach. In 69 I was 16 and had just started my 4 year apprenticeship and could only afford a 1961 Tiger Cub, l passed my test the year later and stretched myself cash wise to a 1967 T90 which was on offer with a good trade in price for the Cub, but could only dream of owning CB750. A well restored K0 can now be over 25k, so still well beyond my reach. Regards Brian

@@TheCADengineer the CB 750 is top of my I should have kept that list alongside my 1970 range rover classic ( Number 118) I sold it to a mate when I moved over to France 18 years ago who never got around to restoring it and sadly it's no more,I still have my 91 RRC as a daily driver had that 20 plus years now, it's good to see another man in a shed working on their passion.

Hi Ben, l think the majority of 1967 to 70 T100R’s have the chokes fitted, the choke lever is part of the front brake lever assembly as it’s the top half of the clamp, but when you look at the 1971 and on T100R’s that have indicators and the aluminium handlebar switch gear and levers there is no choke fitted. However now l am familiar with starting and riding the bike you definitely don’t need a choke anyway, from cold turn on the fuel tap, a light tickle to the carbs and it starts first time every time. Maybe Triumph eventually realised that the choke is not required! Regards Brian

Will do, Thanks.

@@tristenbryson8805 Hi Tristan, On your 2011 there are brake shoes on the inside of the rotor discs, you will probably have to remove the shoes. Once the shoes are out of the way the the procedure is the same. Have a search on KZbin on replacing the handbrake shoes on the Freelander 2 so you know what to expect. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer Thank you I am going to do them today!

Hi Dave, The paints are from Auto Colour Direct from ebay, the basecoat blue is 'RENAULT BLEU MAJORELLE BLUE code RPB 2K BASECOAT' You also need the 2K clear topcoat. The basecoat aerosol is 400ml which is enough to do a petrol tank and 2 side covers and the 2K clear coat is a 500ml aerosol which is more than enough. Here is the link. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145785564057?var=444879798501 Regards, Brian.

Hi, All Tiger Cub's were 200cc with a bore and stroke of 63x64mm and right up to the end of production in the late 60's, and all were 6 volt electrics with positive earth/ground. A lot of owners converted them to 12 volts as the lighting at 6 volts was very poor if you were riding at night. You can fit an alloy big bore cylinder kit for Triumph Tiger Cub that uses a Triumph Trident piston to take it to 230cc, but if you want to go to 250cc you need to also fit the modified crankshaft kit that has a longer stroke, however both kits are aftermarket and nothing to do with the Triumph factory. You may be thinking of the single cylinder BSA Starfire which was 250cc with 12 volt electrics. I have had a couple of Tiger Cub's in the past and still own a 1969 Starfire and the Starfire is a far better bike, however the engine is still copied from Edward Turner's original design of the Cub engine, just 50cc larger and better engineered. Regards, Brian.

Hi Paul, I did look at fitting a Premier pilot as I have a couple of 2 and 3 band jets in my spares box, however drilling the hole would be quite complicated as the jet runs through 90 degrees where the 4 holes in the side of the jet need to be inline with the cross drilling then at the bottom of the hole you need to have a taper to seat at the bottom end of the jet, plus behind the threads you need to drill a plain section for the jets o ring to seal against to stop air being drawn past the threads. I think it can be done, I think that area is the best place for the fuel pilot restriction just before the chamber where the 2 small holes are drilled at the venturi as the carbs with the removable pilot jet above the float bowl seem to need a choke slide fitted for cold start as the restricted fuel flow has a greater distance to be drawn from the vacuum of the venturi and thats why Amal made the change to the pilot jets position on the Premier. Regards, Brian.

@@TheCADengineer thank you for your answer. I was under the impression that the premiere carbs had the pilot jet in the same spot as the carb you drilled out and then punched out the pilot jet. Only difference being the jet is attached to a removable screw. But you say the plumbing is different and would have to be tapered also. Sounds like it's really not worth trying it. I hear you can drill out the plug, clean your pilot jet and tap the drilled hole and screw in a small substitute plug (maybe sealed with yellow Teflon or something. That way you can get to the back part of the pilot jet.( the side you were having an issue with. I believe you covered that in vid. Thanks again. Paul.

@@pauliebots Hi Paul, Regarding re-blanking the holes, I turned up a bit of alli with a slight taper to make the plugs and knocked them into the holes with a smer of Loctite. If I ever need to remove the plugs they will tap out from the other side with the air pilot screw removed, hopefully I won't need to though. Regards, Brian.

Hi Mike, Those numbers are for the early 1967 Daytona's which are Amal Monobloc's, my video is for the later 67 onwards carbs which are Amal Concentrics. The carbs are totally different, the Monobloc (which is fitted to your Daytona) is where the float chamber is part of the main body (one piece carb 'Monobloc') Whereas the Concentric has a removable float chamber where the main jet is concentric with the centre of the removable float chamber. If you search on KZbin for Amal Monobloc 376 you should find info on stripping, cleaning and adjusting your carbs as they were fitted to lots of different BSA and Triumph's. Regards, Brian.

Hi Mike, the kits are the same for the left or right handed carbs, however on a 1967 Daytona you may have Amal Monobloc carbs not the later Amal Concentric carbs as per my video. They only fitted the Amal Concentrics in the latter part of 1969, before then they were fitted with the earlier Amal Monobloc carbs which are totally different.