Nope, i havw this mount since 2 months and trust me, ioptron said that to find the real 0 position you should point on a star, center it and then return at your previous estabilished 0 position and set the new one, however when i did it, it didn't work lol, maybe i did something wrong, thing is, since i use Nina even if axis arent exactly "leveled" nothing happens since platesolving comes in help, however im not saying you don't have to try It, i actually did fix it if not completely at least better than before by just plugging the mount and turning it on, no scope, nothing on and i moved the saddle by hand controller very showly (like 126× or less) until just by eye it felt as parallel as much to the sides, so where the alloy of the dec mesh Is. I simply looked when it seemed as looking straight formward as much as the dec part, that's it, for the Ra u know theres a screw straight under this saddle if u look the mount by the polarscope part, that screw is actually for taking out the dec alloy if im not wrong however u Just take it as reference because very closely under it there will be the Ra alloy screw just as this, i again, this time with everything on because otherwise i didnt know how to achieve balance moved the ra axis until that 2 screws felt as pependicular as possible, i think this one was slightly done worsely but almost on spot because i feel like the inclination is by 1mm or so, so i dont really mind

So its been a month. I use SCNR (remove some green) sometimes, and definitely the STF stretch without the link clicked which does what this does with out the fluff

No, I did one full turn. Please notice, that I tighten the gear meshing first @1:06 (not over tighten it! just until you feel resistance) and then I loosen it by 1/2 turn @1:50. Then I tighten it again @2:25 until I feel resistance and from there, I loosen it 1 full turn @2:30. So in total 1 full turn. 1/8 turn, like described in the manual is definitely not enough in my case. My goal was, that the worm flips by itself to the gear just a little moment before the gear lock switch is fully engaged. @2:51 you should be able to see what I mean.

Все фотографии сделаны на Canon EF 400mm f/5.6. I hope its well translated ;-)

Here you can find the tutorial: www.star-watcher.ch/equipment/locate-deep-sky-objects-with-star-adventurer/

Hi, I went here for that exact same question, did you find a solution?

@@thear1s yes, the morfo wrked out, their are other ones I got to look and tell you latter.

@@thiagosoares8652 thanks! I got some results with blurxterminator but I'm not very happy with the process itself (running blurx on L and B only)

With this workflow the tint should be correected in DSS: www.star-watcher.ch/image-processing/deepskystacker-settings/

I used the adapter from this set (its completely disassemblable): www.bresser.de/Astronomie/Zubehoer/Astrophotographie/BRESSER-variabler-1-25-Adapter-fuer-Okularprojektion.html Clear skies

if you've enough focal length you can use full frame :-) My biggest lens has 400mm focal length. This means 400mm on FF or 640mm on APS-C.

Hallo. Der Song heisst "Escapism" von John 00 Fleming (Audio Network).

star-watcher.ch super danke dir 😉

Hi. Do you use JPGs or RAW images (.cr2) out of the DSLR to process in PixInsight? I only can imagine that you use JPGs. The JPGs out of camera are already processed by the DSLR itself. That could be the reason you don't have a black image.

star-watcher.ch no, i use .cr2 and on camera i set it to raw only

hmmm ok. That's good. Do you use "Batch Preprocessing" in PI to stack the RAWs? (Here you can find my settings for BatchPreprocessing: www.star-watcher.ch/image-processing/stacking-in-pixinsight/) I don't know if you already visited my blog. I described all steps from the video also in this step-by-step instructions: www.star-watcher.ch/image-processing/remove-cls-ccd-tint-in-pixinsight/ If this all is not working for you, is there a possibility for me to download your stacked image somewhere to check it on my PC?

star-watcher.ch no, i used to stacl in sequator but its far from good, it gives actually very bad results. Sadly, i dont have stacked image, but if you have any business mail i can transfer them to you via wetransfer.com :)

You can find my mail address in the "about" section on my channel then scroll down to "Details", then click on "VIEW EMAIL ADDRESS" (kzbin.info/door/OLL3D2vakSAKWFsu4iJbgQabout)

I know its fast... But you'll also find on my blog a step by step tutorial (www.star-watcher.ch/image-processing/my-processing-workflow/) Clear Skies!

Hi. Yes, after alignment you have to close the clutch knob. Otherwise you would loose the object very fast during the session. Good luck with shooting and clear skies!

Hi, first I plug the power cable on (car battery adapter) to the Star Adventurer and USB-Power to the MGEN AutoGuider. Then I connect the MGEN to the Star Adventurer with the ST-4 cable (delivered with the MGEN). Next I connect the MGEN cam with the MGEN controller (cable delivered with the MGEN). Finally I connect the DSLR to the MGEN Shutter-Release port with an Jack cable. Thats all. Hope it helps. Clear Skies

gracias

Jason Murphy I have that exact setup. Now waiting for the ZWO camera to auto-guide with the Orion mini scope (due here this Saturday). The Z61 is a phenomenal piece of equipment.

Hello. Unfortunately it is not possible to connect the Star Adventurer to a computer. In the video the Star Adventurer is not connected to a computer. I simply use Stellarium to compare test shots. Bit it's all done manually. Clear Sies

ok,thank you for responder....but what is interface star adventure?...what does it serve?

The interface is for auto guiding (ST4 port)