The 3D printed designs and source code are open source. They can be found at: github.com/nelsonii If you don't see something there, let me know. I fall behind sometimes and don't keeps things updated as much as I should. For the foot, that's a tough one, and one that's come up quite frequently. The Palm stick, with a flat top, would work if you're in a prone (lying down) position. If you are sitting up, you'll put too much force on the mechanism and it will break quickly. I plan on working on and releasing foot specific controllers soon. It's a matter of having the time to do the R&D while supporting my existing customers.

The Microsoft Adapted Hub joystick would require buttons for clicks. The joystick does not have a "push to click" feature. Also note that it is a digital stick -- not analog. So, more like a D-Pad. On the positive side, it's battery powered and wireless, which is very helpful for certain situations. If you are okay with wired, the other joysticks I make can be programmed as mice. Some of them (Palm, Power, JoyCon) have push to click, which can be mapped to the primary mouse button. They are all analog. Many customers use reWASD and an XBOX AC -- that way the same joystick can be used for gaming and for computer control (mouse, WASD, Cursor, etc). The XBOX AC and reWASD also handles the buttons.

@@RonNelson I see.. that was I was thinking, I really liked the design that microsft created :( I have been having a look at your devices and I think those are great solutions and open-source. I might try to create my own also. Thank you again!

Foot controllers are very hard to find. There used to be some commercial options (for the PC) but they are no longer made. There's nothing I'm aware of for the XBOX AC or PlayStation AC. One of my goals is to design some foot controllers -- a "joystick" version (like a big slider stick) and analog triggers (for gas/brake). You don't see much (if any) foot controllers in the DIY/Maker market because they have their own set of challenges. They need to be far more robust than a hand-activated joystick -- so a lot of the maker friendly materials (ex. 3D printing) just won't hold up. Add in the need for analog (not just simple on/off digital) and the problem increases in complexity.

@ if you would like some one to invest and participate in some foot pedal designs and R and D we would like to help.

Don’t want anything in return besides paying for one for us to use. 🙌

Foot controllers are on my to-do list for 2025.

Yes, the GlidePoint that I program for Joystick action can be programmed instead for mouse "touch and hold" action. Note that the "mouse" will only work with computers -- not the XBOX AC. The "joystick" is programmed specifically for the XBOX AC.

I checked the Kawai ES920 MIDI Settings manual: the keyboard does NOT accept NOR transmit Pitch Bend data. It's a limitation of the keyboard.

@RonNelson thanks for your help, I appreciate you!

No, you can not directly connect them to a PC. They must go through the hub.

I'm making a couple of different versions. The WHEEL (which does PB and MD in wheel format) can be found here: sevenmilemountain.etsy.com/listing/1645131241/wheel-midi-pitch-bend-and-modulation I also have joystick models available. Filter by "MIDI Controllers". I usually have black and white in stock (or being made). The mini PB wheel (which is currently sold out) should be available again first week of November 2024. www.etsy.com/shop/SevenMileMountain?ref=dashboard-header&section_id=40535038

It's 100mm x 64mm x 50mm (about 4" x 2.5" x 2").

I adapted this for someone else, so don't actually have the device on-hand.

An encoder that is built in? That I'm not sure -- I don't have a Octatrack. These are external encoders used for augmentative control.

Good question -- but I'm not sure if it's possible. The XBOX AC supports X/Y analog joysticks -- if the wheel can/does output a range across an axis (ex. -127 to +127 on X) -- then there may be a way. I've not looked at steering wheels to know for sure.

I've heard from another maker that's it's possible to use the PWM pins to send values to the LT/RT. It's not something I've done myself, though he mentioned needed another resistor and capacitor in the circuit. (I'll e-mail him to clarify.) One of the reasons I use a digital potentiometer (or a optocoupler for on/off buttons) is that it separates the two circuits. Using PWM to send signals means you're tying the two circuits (Nano and XBOX AC) together. So you have to be concerned about voltages. For example, the XBOX AC is looking for 5V. But many boards are 3.3V (the ones I use are all 3.3V) -- so I can't provide the full voltage range that the XBOX AC wants. This wouldn't be an issue with a Nano, as it's 5V, but would prevent a great number of boards from being used (ex Pi Picos). This is something that I want to actually test and see -- as it would make wiring a lot easier, and have fewer parts. But I've not had a chance to experiment with it yet.

It would depend on where you are generating the sounds from. If the sound is being generated by the computer (via a DAW -- or something like GaraageBand) then you have both controllers plugged into the computer. Notes are sent by one, Pitch by the other. The DAW combines them. Now, if you want the actual keyboard (or whatnot) to be generating the sounds, then it's more complicated. You need to take the MIDI out from the keyboard, go to a controller, the controller adds pitch information, then routes it to MIDI in on the keyboard. The keyboard then is configured to only play what's coming from MIDI IN. Like I said, more complicated. :-) This is a project that I'm working on for the Nord keyboards.

It's smooth. Similar resistance to a computer's touch pad. It's the same sensor as was used in the original Steam Controller -- and is the little square touchpad on the Steam Deck.

When used with the XBOX Adaptive Controller, it can be used for either the left or right analog thumbsticks. There is no press to click -- that would have to be handled by looking for taps. And I've not had reliable results with taps.

The GlidePoint is running in absolute mode. The "touch and hold" (relative-like) is handled in code. The code maps the X/Y coordinates to N/S/E/W (etc). The value tells me how far from center (pseudo vector). I found writing my own code (it's pretty basic) gave me more reliable control of what was happening. Scrolling, no. I'm still not happy with the tap response, and I'd need that to toggle scroll. (Tap -- scroll on, tap again, scroll off)

Yes, you'll find these mechanisms in a number of non-OEM controllers. The replacement caps are hard to source, but there are some on eBay and AliExpress. Try a search for "joystick cap small hole". You may have to do trial and error, as it looks like the shaft lengths vary. Personally, I don't like these mechanisms, as the less expensive ones are prone to grinding away metal. See this video for what I mean: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2bNm6evbsqNitE

No. It does not currently work with the Nords. However, there is a work-around that I'm looking into. You route the Nord's key presses to MIDI OUT on Channel "A" -- pass it to a stick -- and stick "adds" in PB info and output to Channel "B". The Nord's voice engine is set to listen on Channel "B". That's supposed to work -- though it ties up both MIDI IN and OUT on the Nord, so the joystick would also need a pass-through for DAW work.

Unfortunately, not. The parts I'd need to bend the wire I wanted (4-6mm diameter) were not cost effective. I found the same thing with making springs -- it was more time and cost effective to go to a spring manufacturer. Not exactly "maker" I know -- but time is my #1 limiting factor.

You'd need to run it through the XBOX Adaptive Controller (XBOX AC). Going directly to a PC/Console will not give you enough buttons, and I've not tested it directly to consoles.

The Xbox Adaptive Controller May Also Work On PC.

Using a AAA in place of a AA gives us a little bit of room (mainly in the differences in diameter) to put in a reed switch. It remains to be seen if it's enough space -- there's not a lot to work with. One of our design goals is a drop-in solution, so no actual mods to the toothbrush itself.

@@RonNelson If it's too convenient, how do you plan to prevent water entering?

@@tpwalters101 The conversion would be a drop-in replacement of the regular AA battery. So, it would be protected by the existing waterproof housing of the electric toothbrush. At this point I've modeled with AAA and AAAA batteries -- what I'm going to try next is an N cell battery. It's about the same diameter as a AA but 3/5ths the length. That should give me enough vertical room. (An N is similar in size to an A23, which is often found in remotes--but is 12 V. The N is 1.5 volts.)

@@RonNelson I shower with my toothbrush so the whole thing gets submerged pretty much. That's why I was asking. I have some questions about alternators too if you're ever bored and I could get your email.

@@tpwalters101 Gotcha. Yes, these battery conversions rely on the devices' waterproofing. You can reach me on gmail: ron.nelson.ii

The STLs and source code (OpenSCAD) are on GitHub. All are Public Domain. CORRECTED LINK: github.com/nelsonii/ATech I received feedback from the user and it's been positive so far. Everything was hand measured and modeled. So, even if you don't use OpenSCAD, you can look at the SCAD file and get all the measurements. It is a very fiddly piece. And it's a case where printing in medium res is better than high. For some reason those tiny tabs/catches print better in medium on my Prusa. If you have any questions, you can reach out there, or via gmail: ron.nelson.ii

@@RonNelson You're amazing, thank you so much. When I fit test them on a Glassouse I will let you know how it works out.

I see where you're going with this. :-) I wouldn't use Zigbee (too slow, too much lag, for gaming). But BLE would be an option. What you'd have is a box with 3.5mm wires between the XBOX AC and a receiver. Then the button box would have a transmitter. They would talk. Due to the amount of work involved, I'd re-consider a controller mod. I'm trying to avoid controller mods, but for wireless it may make the most sense. (Wireless and lag are tough problems to solve reliably.)

@@RonNelsontrying to cut down the wire monster lol

Yes, it can support Guitar Hero controllers, but only when connected to a PC. Detailed information for the buttons available are here: github.com/madhephaestus/WiiChuck What I'd have to do it map to come PC controller buttons -- so you'd need to re-map in Guitar Hero (not sure if this is possible).

I figured you were sick of seeing remote controls being adapted. 🙂

I don't believe so. To me, the Adaptive Hub is targeted to Windows machines. The PS5AC doesn't support USB joysticks -- only those which plug in via 3.5mm (1/8") jacks.

They are made for Microsoft products. I have seen videos on YT using the hub with IOS devices like the iPhone. You will need a PC to configure the hubs switch functions.

The banning has hurt a lot of folks -- where before I could recommend "get a Brook board" for my AT users, that's gone. The USB ports on the XBOX AC are VERY limited. Only a handful of buttons are supported, and no D-Pad at all. That's one of the reasons why many USB sticks won't work at all with the AC. So, you're left with the cabling nightmare of using the 3.5mm jacks on the AC for buttons. I've been working with an AT gamer on this issue and have yet to come up with any sort of reasonable solution. It comes down to either hacking into a "genuine" controller (which is very time consuming -- labor=$$$) or using an XBOX AC and have a dozen patch cables. (Hacking the XBOX AC is just as time consuming as a standard controller. They don't make it easy.) For now, we are going the "dozen cables" route as his setup is non-mobile.

@@RonNelson Thank you for your detailed answer. I guess I'll have to order a Mayflash Magic X converter. Mayflash will also be releasing a hitbox soon. They get around the ban by connecting an original Xbox controller to the Hitbox. The Xbox then recognizes the Hitbox as an official controller. I don't know how the converter stick gets around the ban, though. I'm a little worried that Microsoft will find a way to ban these devices too. According to Mayflash, that's not possible. How likely do you think it is that these devices will no longer work soon? Edit: I read that the Magic X converter uses an Xbox chipset and is therefore not affected by the ban.

@@sangha204 Yes, one of the ways around it is to have a genuine controller in-line -- I believe that's what the Titan Two does. I have a Mayflash -- but can't test it as I don't have an X|S console. 😞

It's definitely an outdoor thrower. Far too strong for indoors. The distance is adjusted by how the unit is angled.

@@RonNelson I was just looking at the instructions on the model that I have, and it appears there is a small adjustment loop on the bottom of the unit that you have to pull and set. It's still very strong but I think that there are other balls that you can purchase for indoor rainy day use. 😊👍

I just realized that I need to order more springs, so I had to de-list for the moment. Springs should be here early next week (2024-03-25).

Any news? @RonNelson

@@craigduncan8666 Yes, I have two in stock and more being made. sevenmilemountain.etsy.com/listing/1645131241/wheel-midi-pitch-bend-and-modulation