Wait to go Greg. That was a great drill. Good job buddy.

Please stop using uphill ski and downhill ski. That makes everything more confusing. Switch to 100% outside ski and inside ski for clarity.

Nice drill. It really works wonders. Have used this for years

Never take upper and lower body separation skill lessons from anyone called Darth Maul. Kidding aside, thank you for this video.

Super helpful video, thanks for the insight. I’ve practiced j turns, but missed having my torso perpendicular to the mountain or essentially reaching for the outside ski.

Great video! How does this method compare to rubbing on wax and using a traditional iron? Thanks Greg!

Hi Greg, which Thermic sock (model) have you exactly reviewed?

Slalom or GS skiis for groomers.

I bought Therm-ic and found they did not heat up much. Is this your experience?

Can confirm these things are awesome. I love mine. Light colored bases take a lot longer to heat though. My light ones take 2-3x longer to do than my all black bases. I don't scrape at all anymore, and use a rototool to nylon brush, then another rototool to horsehair brush and done. 15 minutes for a pair start to finish including setup and cleanup. As the ski tech for a family of 4 this has enabled me to wax at the rate that I actually want to rather than them going longer than they should. I use Hertel Hot Sauce wax with this iron and am now sliding past almost everyone of similar size/speed at flat sections.

I too am a ski instructor and wonder if you were paid by Cheval to say what you did. Come on, the placement of the batteries over the knuckles of the hand is a deal breaker. They make it very uncomfortable to grab the poles. Why didn't they place them in the cuffs where they would not have done this? Also the connectors are poorly placed and can scratch the hands when putting them on. Yeah, they are well made on the outside, but as for heat, really? Absolutely no better than Saviors or Snow Deers which cost way less. I have used and own several pairs and I know where of I speak. I have cold hands so I treated myself for Xmas. For $425, I would have expected better than this. And customer service....well, they do not answer the phone nor do they return your calls.

Sometimes it seems like the skill of carving is only useful on groomer as its own thing and it doesn't help in any other ski area like moguls, trees, park or powder. Am I right?

Nice review, loving mine. Wax goes a lot further

That is minimal waste!

I believe a narrower ski allows the edge to be more assessable and allows for quicker learning. I own the Armada Declivity ski in multiple widths. The 92mm x 180 cm I call my carving ski, the 102mm x 180 cm I call it my daily ski and use it for any average day condition. Lastly, the 108mm x 181cm which I call my powder ski. Overall, the 102mm is the best of the bunch for my skill level.

It's definitely a thing. Late last season I was out on the East (Ice) Coast all day on my Black Crows Camox (97mm), really sore later that evening. Switched to the Volkl Deacon 72 (non-master) the following day, with zero soreness. This typically happens when i'm not at my home mountain and can't easily swap skis as needed when conditions change. It's hell getting old :)

When you say that your “outside ski is slightly ahead of your inside ski” in your explanation that stopped me. Outside ski is usually behind your inside ski. Looking at your skiing at the end of the video, it’s also apparent that your outside ski is behind your your inside ski.

I wonder if this is what I need to help with my issue in pow. I like to do Z shape turns a lot in steep zone but that gives me a lot of trouble in powder. Especially when they turn into crud/soft mogul and whenever I try to rotate sideway quickly to hit the mogul I flip. But if I uplift to turn by getting out of the snow my turns are slow and tiring. Also I feel that when I push down and sink into the snow and when the ski tries to come back up, I get thrown into the backseat then the ski starts to speed up and couldn't pull myself back into my stance. What do you think have caused that and how do I fix it?

Excellent advise! I have a quiver 78 for groomers. 98 powder. 106 deep powder only.

Sin number one was well-explained so thank you for that. However, on Sins 2 and 3, you seemed to get your sins and virtues mixed up. While it is true that using excessive twisting of the upper body to turn the skis is a sin, in a medium or larger radius carved turn, it is an equally big sin to over-counter-rotate your body as you showed in your example of the "correction". Your attempts to demonstrate Sin #2 were actually the best turns in the video. In those nice turns, the lead of your inside knee, hip, shoulder, and hands matched the lead of your inside ski which is the perfect alignment of all body parts for medium to large turns, especially if carving is a goal rather than skidding caused by facing downhill too much as we so often see. Your demonstration of the sin actually showed good technique for those medium-sized round turns you were doing. In your later demonstration of how to correct Sin #2, the extremely excessive upper body counter-rotation you showed caused nothing but jammed sideways skidding with no roundness or carving at all. The over-countered turns you showed with the upper body facing straight downhill effectively demonstrates the biggest reason most skiers skid downhill sideways, as you showed, instead of learning to make round turns involving more carving than skidding. Facing downhill with a lot of separation is appropriate for very tight turns such as in mogul skiing, but it is the biggest sin there is for anyone wanting to carve round turns or eventually experience the holy grail of pure carving. In Sin #3, you did not demonstrate Z-turns which are defined as linking traverses by making abrupt direction changes at the pole plant which eliminates any roundess or carving in the turn, nor any time spent in the fall-line mid-turn. Your attempts to demonstrate Z-turns were actually nicely round through the first 2/3s of the turn including the fall-line, with a sudden breaking action at the end; really more of an overly jammed 'J turn' rather than a 'Z-turn". While it's true that those jammed J-turns did not have clean round finishes due to jamming the tails at the end, they were not Z-turns which is a totally different sin. The Z-turner uses an incorrect method to control their speed by jamming the start and middle of the turn to create Z-shaped turns (as shown in your turns showing the "correction" for Sin #2). The tail-jammer uses an excessive tail push at the end of the turn to control speed resulting in a cut-off J-shape. Very different sins from the perspective of someone who taught and coached high-level skiing for 53 years with both regional and national teaching awards as well as multiple podiums in both racing and mogul skiing.

Very good points. Im 72 years old and have had both knees replaced. My daily drivers are 78 mm, ( used 70% of the time) I have a pair of 94 mm for mixed days and some 112 mm for powder only. I ski an average of 100 days a season. My 78mm skis are also short by our old standards 167 cm, and I love them. At my age being out at all is a blessing, I have buddies much older, with similar ski choices. The wider skis on groomed are day shortening.

Other issue is a wide (and heavily rockered) ski does not help and is actually harmful to technique in any conditions but powder. A wide and rockered ski isn't doing you any good in even packed powder and certainty not on groomers or hardpack.

Enjoy your East Coast nightmare. My knees are fine groomer boy. The voice is unconvincing at best. Daily is 108 and you would not hang with the group. Who skis groomers all day…

I noticed this knee twinge when I was using a 108mm as my daily driver around 2002-2010, so I went down to 100mm for a few years. I also found technique was somewhat lazy with wide skis. In 2015, I chose to ski 74-80mm underfoot. I have been narrow ever since. I still have a quiver of 68mm (firm), 100mm (12"+ and punchy windpack), and 118mm (Japan) for special conditions, but the daily driver (Rossi Hero MT) works well from firm to 15 inches in CO.

Wide skis are bad for you because you are weak and suck at skiing. Stick to the groomers Jerry!

0:46 You describe my life. I deal with it and still ski carefully. 84cm wide is plenty. We used to ski vast amounts of powder on 68cm skis. When it does dump now, there are so many powder sharks it is skied out after three runs. Those 110 cm width at the waist skis suck on the pack.

my daily ski is between 72 to 75 underfoot.

I ski a 98 Volkl and zero issues. I think better than narrower ski because it doesn't catch edges and more stable tracking at speed. Love it. I have 100 BlackCrow with serious rocker for powder and even that one is great on groomers at speed. But I do not see a need for wider than 100 in almost any condition for me personally.

In the ‘60s, 70s we were skiing bottomless powder in 70 cm underfoot skis - no problem, maybe a little more effort, and then someone came along with the idea of fat skis, mimicking, I think, the bizarre mono ski (or maybe the toboggan😅), and deep snow skiing did not get any easier, just the equipment itself more bizarre Fact is, if you have propper technique you can ski anything less than 85 cm short or long anywhere all the time - front side backside ice crud - imagine just ONE pair ATD

😶

💐

I AM OLD schooler, like 71mm under foot. AT 88mm.

link to the study pls

I have a 2 ski quiver. Head Isupersport Tally with 77mm waist for hard snow and Nordica Enforcer 93 for an all mountain ski. Been in 2' or more of powder and the Enforcer worked fine. If I skied in CO/UT I would have something wider but most of my skiing in recent years has been in the upper midwest and the east so not much powder. Now in my 80s and having physical problems I no longer skied but did until the pandemic and my health issues hit me about the same time. As a former teacher and coach I always had a large quiver of skis but they were all skinny skis in the old days.

Wide skis are great in spring slush and corn.

I've been enjoying skinny skis the last couple of years. Under 70 under foot. Quick edge to edge. Different turn shape. More commitment, planning, and knowledge required.

What a bullshit. Do simple math - if normal ski has 80mm and wide ski has 100mm then you add to base 10mm. (100-80)/2=10. Draw a triangle and you'll get angle 63,4deg on 100mm and 68,2deg for 80mm. Thatś just 5 degrees that will be compensated by ankles, knees and hips. And it is true only for pure ice, on snow wider skis are digging deeper in snow so there won't be any differences probably.

You're also missing one crucial factor ... how soft is the ski. If you ski a 110mm softer ski, it will be way better for your knees than a very hard 90mm ski. That is, if your muscles are weak to begin with. If you have good developed muscles above and below your knees, then none of this should be a problem at all - just ask my 70yo mom.

I haven't had skis under 100mm in like 7 years lol

depends on what you like doing with it! Wide skis ski groomers way better than groomer skis ski powder

We need to spread this video across America. You are 100% right.

A piece of the video is missing in the middle. Thanks for this information on wide skis!

One really big issue for several men when testing different shell sizes is the instep space. If one has a medium wide foot with high instep but have long legs with skinnier calves and narrow joints it will be really hard to find a decent fit from most of the ski boots available on the market. Let's say according to the foot length measurement one needs a shell size of 28 MP (mondopoint) but the heel is lifting al the time and the use of a custom insole does not help. If one chooses a smaller shell size then the heel will be fixed in the boot and some pressure points may be relieved by a couple of punches in the shell or even grinding some areas. However, with a lower shell size another problem will arise. For example the instep will be pressed hard as a narrower cuff (from a smaller shell size) will be pressing on the upper side of the clog making it unbearable after flexing forward several times. How do you fix this?

Yeah, thanks now I feel terrible about my boot fit have a great ski season

Good advices! My first pair of boots were way too long (seems everyone takes that road) and it was not a good season. I drove 3 hours to go to the best bootfitter around for my current boots and it was well worth it.

Thanks Greg! The boots fit well after the adjustments you made. Can't wait to try them out this season. Better fit, better performance. Works for me!

Awesome info thx👍

If you were to choose between the LENZ and the Thermic, which one would you choose?

This is to old,Try to understand that from one action is a reaction.Your body position at the start of the turn is putting you in a counter rotationThis is a breaking movement.Get rid of it.

Thanks for the review! Is there a clear winner is terms of pure warmth?