The manufacturer has bolts and nuts facing certain directions on purpose. If by some unlikely chain of events, the nut was to slip off, the bolt would not be able to make its way out when facing the factory direction. In this case that's probably not a bad idea, though It's pretty easy to get the bolt out when you're not reaching around a camera.

@@mikoriad Oh okay, worked for me

@@TheKanyeAsada Hold the traction control button until it's all the way off. Do your standard "brake boost" and let it fly.

@@renesolis7799 I thought about just replacing a ball joint once and decided to go with buying a knuckle years ago. Back then I was able to get a knuckle with a ball joint from Saudi Arabia for fairly cheap funny ehough, I think it was like $170. You'll have to remove the entire knuckle to do the ball joint though. At that point might as well just change the knuckle in my opinion. Sorry to hear that, it just made the job that much more difficult.

Yep, sure is. Very easy fix, once you get to it. Unfortunately, getting to it is a heck of a task.

I'd say you are probably safe with your model year. It's a well-known factory defect from what I understand. Most people won't run into this issue though. It's something that can happen on any of the Toyota/Lexus V8s, from Sequoia's, LX's, tundra's, ISF's... It seems be more common ranging from 2008 through the low teens, across the V8 models. It has something to do with the wrong, non-coolant resistant gasket being used from the factory that can eventually fail.

Relief , thanks for the quick reply . 2017 was the last year for the V8 LS as u probably already know and hopefully they gave that issue some attention by the final year. Thanks again.

@@ClassicXL86 No problem. There are just us few lucky ones with the failure, lol. The masses will be fine

@@ClassicXL86unfortunately the 2017 is showing issues according to consumer reports. Oddly enough more so than the 2013-2016. I say oddly because the 2017 is the last year of that generation and should have been the least problematic but it’s not.

In the worst case scenario, you can carefully cut that castlenut down the side easy enough. Use a Dremel or a grinder cutting wheel. Wow, I haven't had a castle nut issue before on this car.

@mikoriad Thank you so much for replying. Yes, it's crazy that i bought air impact impact wrench, but no luck tomorrow. I'll try to buy a dremel well, keep you updated.

You're right. Hah, I misspoke.

Is the coolant slightly low at all? If it's bubbling, some kind of air is getting into the system, it's not necessarily the valley plate though. I would top it off and bleed it, then give it a few days or weeks. If the coolant level isn't changing I wouldn't worry about it at all. If the coolant level does change it could be the valley plate. I topped off and bled my coolant every 8 to 10 months for a couple years before I had to do the valley plate.

You're welcome!

You are correct on both accounts. It was a super light tap of the hammer. It was just a hanging swing on basically 2 fingers. Stupid camera in the way, lol. I think I just misspoke on the 19mm. Thanks!

I read all over the ISF Forums and also the GX forums with the same concern. They pointed out that there are torque specs available and it would not be an issue. The ISF is based on our 1UR-FSE, once the intake is off, the valley plate job is basically the same. I also did the valve cover gaskets and high-pressure fuel pump gaskets while I was in there. There was definitely a fuel smell all over this job. Reconnecting/torquing the fuel pressure sensor was not an issue, I was very slow and deliberate with that sensor.

@mikoriad awesome! I'm in the midst of doing this myself, did you have to replace any of the direct fuel injectors as well? I have to replace 1 and reseal the others, what tool did you use?

I used The original sealant and the one dealers will give you. Toyota FIPG 00295-00103 There is supposed to be a newer one, Toyota 1282B FIPG silicone. The part number is 08826-00100. I asked about it but all three dealers here in the Atlanta area said they don't use it or have it.

@@mikoriad thanks 🙏🏼

Will it leak again? Do you know if toyota ever fixed this issue from the factory?

I bought a kit from Amazon. OMT 5 in 1 ball joint separator tool kit. It comes with the tie rod and ball joint remover, as they call it. It was cheaper to buy the kit then the tool by itself when I was searching. Looks like the kit is still $49 on Amazon if you are in the US.

@@mikoriad Thanks so much 👍

Good luck Sir. There's always something that comes up. After I did the lowers in the video I ended up having to cut the castles off the uppers on one side before I could swap them out. That was easy enough but was still nonsense that I didn't want to deal with.

@mikoriad man I cut the castle nut but messed up my lower ball joint which I had to take the whole knuckle off to get out... your right it's always something.. but I'm learning hopefully the other side will be easier...

You are joking? $7k parts and labor to replace these arms?

No joke. That's what the dealership told me. LS AWD is much more labor intensive then the RWD. So labor costs went up. AWD, you must remove the axle from the spindle to gain room to the castle nut. If you're thinking of doing this be sure to get all the hardware for the parts you're about to replace. If you live in the rust belt the Cam bolts (they rust bad, most likely you will have to pull out the grinder and cut it off) for the front LCA and castle nut should be replaced along with the LCA.

I finished the job myself!It cost me about $800.00 in parts as I didn't need to replace lower ball joints,knuckles,and wheel bearings like the car care nut wanted to do to save himself labor and profit from selling me more parts.He pretty much doubled the Lexus parts.

I bought the Figs engineering uppers with the polyurethane bushings and TRW lowers.

Scott how's the ride with the figs bushings ?

Sorry I don't have any extra video. I set out to record start to finish and quickly forgot. Honestly the worst part for me was getting the engine harness out of the way. I ended up disconnecting the upper engine harness from the battery, across the top of the engine. Then I purposely broke the large plastic harness cover and was able to fold the entire harness over to the right side of the engine bay. I didn't have to touch any wiring going down to the alternator, only a few connectors near the throttle body. Besisdes that, just line all parts & bolts in neat order as you take them off and you'll be great. Reassymbly is much easier than it looks.

Still going strong.

Was it stock when you did that drift ?

​@@keepitstylah9750It's completely factory stock.

This was actually a few days before getting new tires, they were pretty bald. I was surprised by the amount of smoke myself.

@@mikoriad how’d u get it to smoke like that tho that shi was decent

I have no idea, I didn't do anything special. Just a quick brake boost to get both wheels spinning, and go. I was surprised by the amount of smoke also. Maybe the camera and time of day lighting...

It does, I ended up selling my rift years ago for financial reasons and bought the odyssey. I was pleasantly surprised that the samsung was noticeably clearer.

The system details are above. I get around 40 in dense cities/airports, and great fps everywhere else, not sure on the fps range. Visual effects - Maxed Texture Quality - Maxed World objects - Maxed Antialiasing - FXAA Reflection - Low Draw scenery shadows - Checked No parked aircraft - I used X-Life Traffic

I was in section 102 row X... Seat 27. Almost as far way from the stage as you could get. Even from there is was an excellent experience.

Omg I was there?

EVGA 1080ti FTW, 32gb ram, x99 i7 6800k. I had the Oculus Rift and this is hands down better, no dispute. Aside from some controller tracking issues if you leave your hands out of the view range of the headset for too long. I average around 50-70 fps or so.

@@mikoriad Hey i have similar pc but MSI 1080ti gaming X 32gb 3600 RAM AND i7 9700k . What's settings do you have if you dont mind to share. Do you reccomend harrier for ground support ?

@@maciejxxx4059 i7 6800k - X99 Sabertooth - 32GB RAM - Samsung EVO 960 M.2 - EVGA 1080 Ti FTW3 I have to set pixel density to 1.0, otherwise I seem to not be able to get into any of the severs and eventually crash to desktop. Every other setting is on high (or the highest available) except these. Cockpit Res - 1024 Depth of Field - OFF MSAA - 2x Anisotrophic filtering - 2x

@@mikoriad i have a 6600K and a 1080 Ti but on my rift i can have PD to 1.7 or even 2 with no problems. How come you can only set it to 1.0 with samsung?

@@alexsp7086 Honestly i just haven't changed that setting. I thought I'd only have to change ot if I had issues. I'll give it a try. Oh yes, I will add that I now have a 9900k and a 2080ti.