Same problem like my explorer 2013 😢

Thank you for your posting! I will give it a try. Can’t thank you enough!

I'm a total newbie to electrical. Would you be able to post links in the description to the parts I need for this? I'll see if I can find another video on how to splice. My 2013 Ford Explorer has had camera issues for 3 years, I'm ready to be done with it! Thanks so much.

Chad it worked for me too on my 2014 XLT Ford Explorer. I was still having some problems but I made sure I had clean contact and then I cleaned all my back up sensors and it now works perfectly.

Did not work on my 2014 Ford Explorer. The smaller black and gray wire fed my power lift gate, it was not the camara ground!!

my camera works when tailgate is up??

It worked so well. Yeah if the camera is working sometimes is not the camera it’s about the wiring 👍🏻. You are the best!

I heard the camera fix will also fix the stereo changing inputs randomly gonna try tomorrow

Thank you so very much 💯💯🙏

This is brilliant

This wins the internet forever. I just did this on my 2013 Flex with what I had on hand, and my original backup camera image stayed on (and not upside down) for a full minute. I've never seen that.

Brilliant!

mines fine till it rains

It didn't work for me

I cut the largest black cable then did as you. But it didn't work for me

Didn't work for me. Mine is a 2014 limited. It poped up Terrain managment warning and the car came to a stop while driving. I had to immediately disconnect it and the car went back to normal

Connection itself has water in it

I usually don’t comment on these types of videos, but this truly helped me. Thank you sir!

Thanks brother I just got an 83’ Lincoln continental and gotta replace the main seal. I’m not too sophisticated with engine work but this is video is a huge help to my future project. People like you are amazing, thanks for taking to your time to make this video!

Genius, Chad! I now have CLEAR VIDO from the backup camera after years of Intermittent distorted video on our 2016 Ford Expedition Limited. Once I watched THIS video kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYvXioqkiaiKr8k on how to remove the inside panel & vapor barrier on the lift gate / rear door, YOUR VIDEO MADE IT AN EASY FIX to locate the ground wire and attach a jumper to a near by bolt. Thanks for going to the trouble to post your brilliant repair!

is there a way to be able to contact you directly instead of in a thread? did you by chance do a video of a step by step of this?

You are all ne smart dude 👍🏻

Vampire insulation displacement wire taps are a poor alternative for long term use in outdoor temperature range environments. Better to use a proper, sealing crimp, or if (and only IF) you can solder well, solder plus heatshrink tubing over it. You don't really want to add a lot of bulk , and rigid at that, inside that wire boot because every time you open and close the rear gate, the rest of the wires are going to have a hard corner they flex against where the connector ends, and will wear faster in that flex area.

Sorry maybe silly question; what i need to buy for this fix to be able to do it?

Anybody that did this in the Inland Empire that can do this for me? I have the same camera issue.

Thanks! Worked great. In my case (2012 Explorer) after the fix, I started up the car and SYNCH shut down and the whole display was blank. So I just removed the ground terminal on the battery and then replaced it. Synch had to go through it's whole periodic maintenance reboot, but after that, the backup cam worked perfectly. Thanks again.

Yea so I did this on our 13 ford explorer and it did absolutely nothing different so does that mean camera is bad ford said supposedly they go bad alot

what is the tappin wire tool used?

hello , how does a beginnerfind the correct ground wire , and then "tap" into the ground wire ?

do not use a cable splicer it will cut into the wire and corrode in a couple weeks in the wet parts of the country .. use a proper solderless connector with shrink wrap. otherwise you permanent fix is a new problem also you want to ground door to body with a different wire.

Great freakin' video, dude. Gonna give this a go later on.

Tried that still doesn't work

Thought there was a pig that ran around yelling "weeeeee!" Just like Geico

Hey. Chad. Great vid. I’m trying to see which one is the ground cable ? I don’t see it in the vid ? On my ford. There’s some cables taped up in black tape. I’m wondering if those are the ones? but i do see something similar. I just don’t want to cut into the wrong cable. 😏

Just tried this on my 2013 Explorer Sport and it did not work. Liftgate and everything still worked fine though, but I don't think the wire is colored the same in my model. Unless anyone knows what the proper ground wire is, I think I'll try a new camera next, though I doubt that's the problem since the camera clearly works sometimes. And no, it is NOT internal corrosion (for the guy who keeps posting this solution) on the liftgate cables, I did check that first and mine are super clean with no evidence of leaking. HOWEVER, my camera started having problems after I had a cabin leak over the last few months that I finally just found and fixed, so there might be corrosion on some wires somewhere else inside the vehicle structure that I cannot see. This could be a reason why splicing a new ground wire in the tailgate isn't working for me - if the corrosion is further up the vehicle an additional ground would have the same (i.e., no) effect as the original. Suggestions are welcome - and thanks for the video anyway, very helpful.

Ur a genius!! How did u think of this. I took my car to the dealership to fix because the lift gate almost decapitated me and of course they could not fix it and they replaced something different than they said then it almost killed me Again! Took it back and they fox that problem but I wonder if that caused the camera to stop working now. 🙄🙄😡😡

Thanks for your video. I took all the panels off the liftgate. There's a connection on the gate secured to the framework, that connection is not exposed to moisture or dirt. I also removed the chrome trim that houses the camera. Took the camera out. Lots of dirt in there. All the weather stripping was disintegrated. The camera connection was clean. Cleaning connections didn't solve the issue. Before I gave up, I tried your method. It is the black and grey wire which is continuity to ground (checked it). I ran a ground wire to the closest hinge bolt which a much more solid ground. Soldered the connection. I don't trust the splicers. Result: working so far!

Received the “see dealer” warning. Replaced with a cheap knock-off but such had solid white guidelines which made it appear my wheels were turned. Ran calibration with FORScan which said was a success but didn’t fix such. Installed a Dorman camera but couldn’t calibrate as I receive a “B115E:08 - LIN communication fault from the video camera”. Put OEM camera back in and ran calibration and received same warning. Does my camera need to be calibrated with a different scan tool or is this likely my issue?

Dude, you literally saved me! I was about to buy a new camera and start pulling off panels. Did this and BAM camera works perfect. 2016 Flex. Super easy, took me like 10 mins and stuff I had in the garage already. Wife happy now and you made me look like a hero, thanks for that!

Took me about 10 minutes. Excellent!!! 👌

Your video inspired me to try adding a ground on my 2016 F150 and it worked like a charm!!! My camera was broke for about a year and this method fixed my problem!!!! Thanks!!!!

This did not work for me. Ugh.

Complicated

Thanks for the tip! I did this on our 2014 Explorer. Easy peasy and so far so good! Thanks!!!

just tried on my 2014 explorer. so far so good

How is that a ground when the bolt is plastic?

2013 has different wire colors. The small black and grey is not the ground.

thanks a lot

Hi Chad, I have slightly different problem. My backup camera is working all these days but since 2 days it shows mirror image. How to fix it?.

So it that the same wires that are wrapped in the electrical tape