Glad it was helpful! It can certainly be a bit confusing!

Nope, I didn't try to angle the lower rod as it needs to be parallel with the upper vise screw for the smoothest movement. And to move smoothly through the linear bearing on the leg, it needs to be perpendicular to the leg.

Yeah, the freewheel is there so that it's still possible to pedal and because of the spacing. I did not get a pedal assist when I ordered mine, so I do not have any experience installing one. The battery connection can be done multiple ways depending on how it's setup, but most are pretty simple to do.

You may could go without the freewheel, but you likely need to figure out how to take up the space that it takes so that you can properly secure the hub in the dropouts. I'm not sure it would be considered a "bike" if you can't actually pedal it though :).

Thanks for the comment! That's awesome you made one as well!! It's definitely not easy, but I thought it was a pretty good intro to making some common joints without having to make 100 of them before assembly. I still stressed pretty hard doing the larger mortises though! :)

It's a Hitachi C12RSH -- the latest version is now sold by Metabo (amzn.to/3Yz2qI4). I've enjoyed using it even though it's a bit big :).

I'm not sure exactly what might be causing it. I used a pretty new/sharp 3/4" 2TPI blade on a 17" 2HP bandsaw for reference. Cutting really green wood and the type of wood would also make a difference. If the wood is under a lot of tension it may be closing back on your kerf line and squeezing the blade?

It's been quite a while, but there is a special USB programming cable that you need to connect the motor to your PC. You then need the Golden Motor Windows App to change its settings (goldenmotor.bike/downloads/). You can change max speed, acceleration, regenerative breaking, etc.

Merci avez vous le nom du câble svp? Et le programme est compatible avec tout les moteurs ?

Thank you! That was very generous of you!

LoL! It was a brand new hole saw, so I'm sure that helped. It was definitely the most nerve-racking part of the install.

I don't believe the Benchcrafted "Crisscross 14" existed when I made this or I may have considered it. The linear bearing and rod are still about $50 cheaper and require far less material removal from the leg and chop, so I don't think it takes more time than any of their Crisscross models to install. If I was making another bench out of more expensive wood, then I might consider their Glide Leg Vise and a crisscross, but so far this one does everything I need it to.

Yah, those were the screws it came with, but they've never really caused a problem as it's a little taller. The Rockler and Taylor Toolworks tracks do have countersunk holes.

I'm probably not much help with pricing suggestions as I make these for friends and family. You might check Etsy or a few name brand places like Johnboos.com to see how much they go for, but try not to undersell yourself. If you plan on making a bunch, be sure to factor in labor, materials, and machine/tool wear costs.

I haven't had any issues. I just lightly mist it, so there's not much water soaking in. It's probably less than it would see in use when getting rinsed off.

@@aroundhomediy so I’ve made 4 cutting boards and one charcuterie board and each time without fail the board will warp. I leave it standing and it goes back to normal after a few days but do you know why that would be? Even if I lightly rub with a damp sponge they still end up warping. I’ve made only end grain cutting boards if that makes a difference.

I haven't made any end-grain boards yet, so I don't have much to compare to. I've had to re-sand one just a bit to get it to lie flat after a couple of years of use, but nothing major. There's a post at The Wood Whisperer (thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/cutting-board-warping/) that talks about warping some, but there's not much offered as a solution unfortunately.

@@aroundhomediy oh thank you I appreciate that. Thankfully my boards straighten out after I leave then standing for a day or two but I was just wondering if this is a common occurrence. I’ve asked quite a bit of people now and it doesn’t seem like anyone else struggles with it. I’m also wondering if the maple I got is a higher moisture content than usual. Just trying to find answers so I can correctly move forward. But again, thanks for the response

Thanks! We ended up moving a few months ago, so I'm now in the process of setting up a new, but smaller shop area.

I still enjoy using it and haven't run into anything that I'd want to change on the drill press table so far. It's *definitely* better than the table that came with it :). Good luck on the build!

Thanks! I hope to do more soon. We moved and I'm trying to get my new shop area set up!

Thanks for the nice comment! I love how your chess board turned out. It looks amazing!!

I used these quite a bit for bigger glue-ups or when I'm doing work in the yard. You should be able to make something pretty similar using just a circular saw (making multiple passes for the lap joints) or a hand saw (they're basically 1/2 a tenon) and chisel for joint cleanup. We're currently in the process of moving, and I'll have a much smaller shop area in the new house. I'm hoping to make a pair of Krenov-Style sawhorses soon that can be broken down flat and hung on a wall. For those, I'll be using hand tools almost entirely as I'm also selling my table saw and jointer.

If you go with the frame for routing the juice grooves, then you don't need a bearing on it, but the bearing is needed when using a template.

Thanks! No issues with hot spots with the LEDs spaced pretty close together. You can get strips with LEDs even closer, but these worked pretty well with the spacing I used between rows.

I just rubbed a bit of wood glue in the hole and put the rod in since it was a tight fit. That mostly just hardened the wood a bit.

The southern yellow pine bench and jaws on both vises have all held up really well. There are maybe a couple of small dings from metal planes or a holdfast. I haven't noticed anything from just the wood that I clamp, but I'd still rather have either the bench or jaws get a little dent instead of the workpiece :). Good luck with your new vise! I still really enjoy using mine.

Thanks! Using the spacers for the mortises worked better than I thought :). I've been using the Gramercy Tools holdfasts from (toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/ms-holdfast.xx/holdfasts_by_gramercy_tools) and they work great. I think all I did was rough them up slightly (horizontally around the post) with some 80 grit sandpaper. I used them several times in the video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYHQlZRmjJioq6M).

Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful! If Autodesk had not changed the hobbyist license and limited it so much, I would still make videos for it...

Yes, Autodesk appears to keep changing the terms for the worse. At first they limited it to a max of $1000 revenue for the free hobby plan (so I quit making tutorials) and now it appears that you can only use it for 3 years before having to pay $545/year for it: www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal So it's pretty sad that they don't seem to care about the hobby users any more. I might check out FreeCAD next or some of the add-ons for Blender for future projects.

It was probably around 2-3 months total as I had to make a few trips to find enough boards and was finishing up another project. If you have an old board already and a moisture meter, you can compare any new ones with the old one. I use a meter like this: amzn.to/3hRURw3 .

Thanks! You too!!

@@aroundhomediy Your very welcome Thank you as well😎

If you haven't already found them, I did a SketchUp video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2PEdaiBqNVoaas) and Fusion 360 Video (aroundhomediy.com/design-workbench-fusion-360/) on making the bench plans. The file for the SketchUp can be downloaded here (aroundhomediy.com/design-workbench-sketchup/#Plans) and Fusion 360 here (aroundhomediy.com/design-workbench-fusion-360/#Plans).

That's great! Fusion is definitely a bit different, but it can be really helpful when you need to adjust the dimensions of a project at any point.

I haven't had any issues with just the single bearing and using the wedge for anything I need to clamp down extremely tight. Most of the time I'm only clamping 1/2" to 1" thick boards in the vise, so unless I'm planing a long edge, I don't normally have to bother with the wedge. If I do, I don't usually have to move it much. I do have 1 piece of draw liner on the vise side which helped a good bit when not using the wedge. One day I'll stick another piece on the bench side to see if that helps any more.

Thank you for the kind words and for making and selling great woodworking tools!

Thanks! Ya, I've watched a few of his dovetail videos. The marking knife lines across the mortises I think were more from the sheer terror of messing up the pricey piece of cherry :).

Definitely check them out if you have a nice bike you'd like to upgrade! :)

No, sorry I don't remember what drill bit sizes I used just that the counter-bore diameter was maybe 1/8" bigger than the head of the screw and the clearance hole for the screw was maybe 1/16" larger than the threaded area just for some wiggle room (the screw and threads should pass through it easily). The pilot hole into the wall stud should be the size of the screw's shank *not* including the threads if not a tiny bit smaller. The counter-bore depth depends on the length of screw used, but I would try to leave 1.5" - 2" of thickness in the wood (under the head of the screw). If attaching to a wall stud covered with drywall, you probably want to have 1-3/4" to 2" of the screw sticking out the back so that you get 1" to 1-1/4" of it into the stud (assuming 3/4" thick drywall).

@@aroundhomediy That answers my question. Thank you!

Great! Glad it helped!

It's not a supportive but it's middle bike shocks

You might can get a rear rack (that extends past the rear wheel) and mount it to that?