@@MjrNiGhTmArE Glad it helped.

Not sure what you're asking. The nail-gun blanks fit just fine in all of my .22's. What brand of nail-gun blank are you using? There are many makers and I've only shown you what I had. They do make 27 caliber blanks as well, which would not fit.

Not likely unless it's keeping the slide from going back far enough to cycle, in which case it would be obvious. My first thought would be to check the condition of the connector. Possible it's not to spec or something is interfering with the function. Was the recoil spring the only thing that was changed? The connector is what the slide impinges on to reset the trigger bar. If any of those parts have been replaced or altered, that might be your trouble.

@ it’s barely been shot in 2 years I owned it. Nothing else done to it. It’s for backwoods predator defense. Lot of people suggested to put heavier spring in for the hot bear rounds. I’ll definitely be getting to the bottom of this. Thanks

@@honorb4glory606 Interesting. Have you considered cheap no.4 buckshot?

@RyeOnHam yes, but those are too small for my .251 bore. I was able to find a company that casts hardened lead .25 ACP bullets for reloading, and I got a ton of them incredibly cheap. I was using airgun pellets, but they were too soft, and too expensive.

Not exactly sure what you're asking. I used my fingers.

@ the metal pen type tool. Name?

@@ziy1 Yeah, I like to get into the details and wrap my head around the engineering minutiae. Still a good mounting system, I think.

My first thought is that it is a hammer-block safety, but I am not pulling the gun apart to figure it out. It would block the hammer from hitting the firing pin?

You are best off leaving it be. Put a dab of Break Free or other penetrating oil on the sides you can get to and just put it up for a while. If there's no urgent need to clean it or take it down, then I'd suggest leaving well enough alone.

If you need both an AR-15 castle nut wrench AND a Mossberg forend wrench, then get the cheapest you can find. I buy them at Gun Shows, but I think AIM Surplus will sell you one for $7 or so. My google search would be "AIM surplus ar-15 stock wrench"

I only have the ones on the gun and I don't think it would be economical to take them off, send them and then reinstall them. You can still buy them. I think they were on eBay last I looked.

I don't think they cared 100 years ago. I've got several 51's in various states of repair. The first thing to break is the web on the side of the bolt cracking. I've never seen one worn out from disassembly. As for the bolt, it is made from hardened steel, just like the firing pin. If I had to guess, I'd say that the bolt was HARDER than the firing pin. To understand why, most firing pins do not break because of wear or mushrooming, they fail because they get smacked by the hammer over and over again.

@@RyeOnHam Oh OK thanks for that. I noticed getting a new bolt isn't easy. Should certain ammo be avoided with them?

@@KungFuHonky Yeah, she is a small one.

This gun was bought used and did not come with wood grips. Wood grips are great to look at, but not always the best for concealing or shooting.

You have a Remington model 12A. The one in the video is a model 12C. A more expensive model. The model 12B was the gallery model and only shot short cartridges. Then there was a model 12CS that only shot 22 Remington Special cartridges.

Already did. Check my videos. I've got half a dozen of these vids.

Glad this helped. There are purpose-built tools, but this one is usually cheaper and just as effective.

Great that you're having good luck with them. I don't recommend anybody seat the pellet that far forward. I was not having skirt separation with the brown loads so long as the pellets were seated beyond where the blank petals opened up. Then again, I've only fired about 50 or so off camera and my videos kind of sum up my results. I do have other pellets to try, however KZbin has lost interest in supporting this kind of content, so my videos are instantly demonetized when I post them. Given about 20 hours of work will go into a 10-minute video, I can't justify the time.

It is a semi-automatic with a pre-set striker. The pre-set striker is a form of single action much like a rebounding hammer on a revolver or single-shot shotgun. "Semi-automatic" refers to the operation of the loading mechanism, the slide and magazine, not the trigger mechanism. You can have a true single-action pistol that is also semi-automatic. The Colt 1911, for instance. We can debate the terminology if you'd like.

Good luck. When I contacted Mossberg they did not sell these. They were somewhat rude about it too.

When I filmed these, I didn't have a good filming setup at my drill press. Since then, KZbin has said we can't show gunsmithing. Anyway, for vent-rib barrels, I eyeball the center of the rib, drill a hole right behind the front standoff, and run a tap through it and debur the back side with flat tip of a needle file. Triple-check that everything is square to the receiver. For the round barrels, I have a V-Block from Harbor Freight they call the, "Self-Centering Drill Press Jig". Put a 1/4" or bigger bit in your drill press and run it down onto the jig to center the jig, then clamp it down. Change the drill bit to the right size for your tap. Drill the hole about 1/4" behind the muzzle. Do NOT debur the hole yet. Tap the hole. Put the bead on. I prefer Brass beads as they grind slower. Run a dremmel with a grinding stone CAREFULLY till you start seeing sparks. Feel to see if it matches the inside contour. Once you're satisfied, run a fine craytex polishing bob of the right size over the area till the polish matches that of the barrel. Brownells sells bead kits. I prefer 6-48 holes for ribs and 3-56 holes for drilling through the barrel. Brownells also sells installation tools for the beads. It's a little pin vise that clamps on the bead and lets you thread it in. A dab of red locktite helps keep it in there. If some of the instructions don't make sense or you don't have the proper tools, you may not have the aptitude to do this job. I learned by trial and error, but it helps to be selling half a dozen chopped shotguns a weekend so you have lots to trial-and-error. To be fair, I always use the smaller threaded beads on the round barrels and cut them 1/2" long so I have two or three opportunities to fail. I can't remember ever having to recut the barrel, tough maybe one or two where I had to drill out for 6-48 after the threading didn't feel right.

Thanks for the sub and for watching. Never saw combat myself, but I did get the medals for being in country, but inside the wire. If they got to me, the war was over already, lol!

@@RyeOnHam good man 👍🔫

MecGar makes them. You can get them from Midway, I think, but a google search will serve you well. Gunbroker also has them for sale regularly, but you might have to pay too much there. I do not trust anything but factory or MecGar... which was an OEM supplier to S&W.

I can't troubleshoot that over the internet. Take it to a local gunsmith.

Eles não são muito duráveis. Já vi muitos quebrados e desgastados.

Agreed. I have a switchback as well and that one is quieter, but at my ear it doesn't make any difference.

Not a .375

Very true.

The newer ones are better made and finished. Thanks for watching.