The finish is mainly determined by the temperature at which you dip the part, if you want more control over the finish, cold bluing is also a good option.
@khanibrahimo14 күн бұрын
GOOD❤❤❤
@EngineerSteve12 күн бұрын
Thanks for your comment, have a nice day!
@thiagobarion417Ай бұрын
Ola, ganhou mais um inscrito 😊 Porque não deu continuidade ao projeto? A maior parte do pessoal no KZbin que constrói essas maquinas, a maioria nem sai do papel, e os que começam o projeto para no meio do caminho.
@EngineerSteveАй бұрын
Obrigado por seu comentário! Embora eu não tenha feito muitos vídeos sobre este projeto recentemente, ainda estou trabalhando na fresadora e estou perto de terminar outro vídeo sobre este projeto, mas meu tempo livre é limitado (desculpe pela tradução potencialmente ruim)
@jefferylorance7988Ай бұрын
They say spray 6-10 inches away, closer is better, and at least 4 very light coats approximately 20 minutes in between, even 5+…
@EngineerSteveАй бұрын
I found that with the spray can it does indeed take quite a few layers. When dipping the part I find that two cycles is sufficient most of the times (depending on material)
@donnykiofetzis5775Ай бұрын
good job steve but you will need a cover over your motor, shaving is going into motor
@EngineerSteveАй бұрын
Thanks for your comment! That is in fact a valid concern. I will make some sort of cover for the new motor that I have bought for this project.
@MausTanker2 ай бұрын
heat and vegetable oil? THATS IT?!?!
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
Heat (the right amount) and any type of oil, yes that's it😉
@MausTanker2 ай бұрын
@@EngineerSteve That's interesting. I'd be worried about doing so with firearms parts as that may ruin the temper and present a safety issue.. but this is cool nonetheless.
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
@@MausTanker I would not advise doing it on vital gun parts for the concern that you mentioned. Cold bluing seems more suitable for that purpose, I would imagine.
@MausTanker2 ай бұрын
@@EngineerSteve still very cool to know!
@norbelsemaj38702 ай бұрын
Can you Pastidip Rubber parts ?
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
I have never used this process on rubber but I see no reason for it not to work.
@be0072 ай бұрын
and after welding you think the bearrings are still in line ?
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
Most likely not, it might not be that noticable but (line) boring after welding would be the best solution. That's outside my capacities though.
@joejoejoejoejoejoe43914 күн бұрын
@@EngineerSteveI guess you could have used spherical self alinning roller bearings, but they might be expensive.
@RustyInventions-wz6ir2 ай бұрын
Nice lathe. Good work
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
Thanks! I just finished the new spindle for this machine. The original spindle, as seen in the video, dated from 1939 and did not allow for any serious turning work.
@RustyInventions-wz6ir2 ай бұрын
Very interesting. I watched all the videos on this and would like if you used it as a mill in the end. Sometimes I build something and it seems okay, but doesn’t work as intended. Nice work
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
Thanks, I am sure it will work but how far I can push it is a different question, we will find out in the end😉
@RustyInventions-wz6ir2 ай бұрын
Very nice work with that T slot table.
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
Thanks! I think it's a reasonable way of building one without the need for complex metal working operations.
@RustyInventions-wz6ir2 ай бұрын
Very nice work. I have tried before using my pillar drill for milling. It didn’t work well. It is just not stable/ strong enough for the task.
@EngineerSteve2 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comment! My conclusion was the same, that's why I am building a new milling machine (video comming soon) that will incorporate all the viewer feedback and things I learned.
@cameron7603 ай бұрын
Nice! Good job on the progress.
@EngineerSteve3 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comment, have a great day!
@grandmastersreaction12673 ай бұрын
Do you have the files for the spindle available?
@EngineerSteve3 ай бұрын
The design of the spindle is not yet fininished but when it is I will surely make the files available!
@grandmastersreaction12673 ай бұрын
@@EngineerSteve legend
@PiotrK20223 ай бұрын
@Engineer Steve Better spin the rod, not drill... Just like on the lathe...
@EngineerSteve3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the input, I have a small lathe now so this setup will see no use anymore to me.
@jtreg3 ай бұрын
Hello do you have the stl files? I have a vintage RandA lathe!
@EngineerSteve3 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comment, I made the files available here: www.homemadetools.net/forum/3d-printed-mini-lathe-add-ons-98898 If you can not acces the files this way, please let me know.
@davefinnie17714 ай бұрын
Hi- Did you check accuracy of table in both axis? If so how much variation?
@EngineerSteve3 ай бұрын
I have not yet done any accuracy checks but that is something I want to do in the future, after all it's a cheap table.
@KS-bf7si5 ай бұрын
That's not black ! Or even blue come to that .
@EngineerSteve5 ай бұрын
This process is commonly referred to as'hot bluing' my best guess is that the metal oxidizes to a blue colour (by means of heating it) before being cooled down in oil, hence the name
@arnenelson44955 ай бұрын
Is it safe to heat a revolver cylinder this much?
@samilcan25 ай бұрын
Great design and build, especially the spindle. Rigidity is everything obviously for milling, but rigidity is not just for the material or weight of the machine (adding concrete or epoxy to cavities will help but won't ever be enough) -- it is also in the mechanical design of the basic structure of the machine, its shape and how its frame and the spindle housing is "held". In a drill press the frame is on a round column, spindle being a foot away from the round column, and hence the whole thing (the cast iron frame as a whole) just wants to turn with the force of the end mill pushing against the work -- and I mean, turn with a circle around the column: the radius being from the end mill to the center of the cylindrical column. Whatever weight or extra clamps we introduce, that radial force will always be there with that frame setup, causing at best major chatter, at worst wandering both at the milling end and even at the workpiece. So the solution will have to be introducing any means to limit that radial force that tries to turn the whole machine -- I've seen people attaching metal bars from the frame (on the two sides of the spindle housing or whatever works) to walls, ceiling, bench, etc. to make it way more rigid for instance, with varying results. But the point is, the whole machine will need extra structural elements to be attached (probably even at the back of the column and the base) to minimize any vibration due to a radial force that the machine "shape" was never designed for. A rectangular column would change everything haha!
@EngineerSteve5 ай бұрын
You are correct on every point you mentioned, I learned a lot by building/converting this machine (also through reading helpfull comments). I am now using that knowledge and experience for building a new milling machine, there already are a few videos on my channel about the new machine and many will follow!
@RustyInventions-wz6ir5 ай бұрын
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
@EngineerSteve5 ай бұрын
Thank you! much appreciated
@gtamyths966 ай бұрын
My airgun lost its bluing in one spot, could i heat that part and put a few drops of oil on just it? Also could I put gun oil instead of vegetable oil? Thanks!
@ashwinanbu16 ай бұрын
Hi is it possible to control x and y axis by a motor? Like cnc?
@EngineerSteve6 ай бұрын
One of my goals with the new machine I am building currently is to make it (semi) CNC, I am pretty sure it is possible but you just need to figure out some motor mounts and expect some backlash with the original leadscrews.
@peterhadfield8737 ай бұрын
The price is in "old money". 9 pounds, nine shillings and no pence, so, 9 pounds 45 pence in modern decimal currency. Cheers
@kevinjamieson86767 ай бұрын
Nice looking spindle! One of the questions I’ve had in replacing an existing headstock and spindle is how do you ensure it is parallel with the ways and matches up with the tailstock?
@kevinjamieson86767 ай бұрын
I think that the price listing is of the format pounds/shillings/pence which was before the UK decimalised their currency in 1971. According to the Bank of England inflation calculator 9 pounds in 1939 would be 484.88 today.
@salmonn_gz79877 ай бұрын
almost 6 times the price and 10decibel less noise, including the engineering and probable long term use, noctua supposedly worth the price (and perhaps profits)
@EngineerSteve7 ай бұрын
Depends on what you are planning to use them for, personally I like products with lower noise levels but cheaper alternatives will work as well (up to a lower standard of course)
@videoarsiv1487 ай бұрын
you need min vibrasion steel machine body and 2.5hp power motor
@kogyi7187 ай бұрын
Thank you very much.
@EngineerSteve7 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comment!
@musicmaneman388 ай бұрын
Why not R8 or BT30?
@barrycooney71958 ай бұрын
I think the main reason why you hadn’t much colour in the welds is because it’s mild steel. It hardly gets colour unless you have the setting perfect. The pictures you showed were of stainless it will always get colour as long as it’s not too hot.
@EngineerSteve8 ай бұрын
Yes, you are right about the colours and mild steel; although I do tend to have some colour in the majority of my mild steel welds unless the heat input into the part is high.
@barrycooney71958 ай бұрын
@@EngineerSteve I noticed the lack of a digital display but it’s a small compromise. Might treat myself in the new year. Thanks
@EngineerSteve8 ай бұрын
@@barrycooney7195 You should take a look at the torch, I have bought a different torch after making this video because I didn't really like the one supplied with the machine. depending on preference of course
@Reman19758 ай бұрын
If I had £1 for every time I've reassembled my lathes headstock, THEN realised I hadn't fitted the belt, I'd have at least enough for a couple pints of lager. :D
@EngineerSteve8 ай бұрын
It is indeed easy to forget 🙂 Cheers anyway!
@leonida-alexandrudiaconu86608 ай бұрын
A mill table made out of sheet metal it will always flex. The list you can do is have the flat sheet that you use as ways converted to an l profile. Bolt it to the side of the way and the side of the table.
@atothek18049 ай бұрын
Nice work! What do you think is it possible to rotate handle which releases carriage apron from lead screw? I mean, when the handle is pressed down carriage move and correspondingly when the handle is upper-right carriage doesn't move?
@EngineerSteve9 ай бұрын
It might be possible but on this apron it will likely contact the carriage handwheel or restrict your motion when operating the handwheel. Do you prefer the carriage to stop when you push down the handle?
@DennisMurphey9 ай бұрын
OUTSTANDING VIDEO! I am so impressed. I am completing a Simple Manual mill converting a Dremel Drill Press Stand. My work is much smaller, Model Trains 1/64 scale so just smaller than Lionel and just bigger than HO. But I want all the features you have put into your lovely beautiful machine. I hope to learn from your video and will be able to make a 1/2 size machine soon. Thank You Dennis
@Ha63ppy10 ай бұрын
Can you do this with stainless steel
@jean-francoishuc143910 ай бұрын
Thx for the vid man. Was looking for exactly this. Quick and to the point. Keep at it🫡
@renzojager241510 ай бұрын
Hi Steve, love the content but there is room for improvement if it comes to showing exactly what you are talking about, I’m patient when it comes to that! I have the same lathe an love the 3D printed parts! Might use your idea if that’s fine. Looking forward to a good barings solution as well 😅
@EngineerSteve10 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comments, videography is not my strongest skill but with feedback like this it will improve over time 🙂 I am too looking forward to the new bearing setup, I can't wait to use this awesome little machine to make some nice parts!
@386joedaddy10 ай бұрын
Steve, i need your advice. The cover plate of harmonicas, its thin but i want to blu it so bad and its scary in some ways. What do you think? Is that stainless going to warp like a mofo or what? Even just doing the heat to it and slowly shifting its color is where I'd like to go.
@EngineerSteve10 ай бұрын
That's an interesting question, I actually don't know but I think I will give it a try myself with this process. I do know that cold bluing doesn't work on stainless. I will get back to you when I tried it.
@386joedaddy10 ай бұрын
@EngineerSteve so I got Horner old standby arriving tomorrow for $16, and I can do map, propane, or oxygen/acetylene to really just go doh. Im not fucking up my MS blues bands at $55. You'd think someone would of done this because they were rainbowing everything there from pipes to knives. Im only worried that it will rough up the finish, and I'll look like Chris Rock in new jack city with some jacked up lips. Dude, I look everywhere, and I found nothing. I even asked those guys and GCs at work today that know it all, but NIEN! I just be the first dude to think this because the only first credit to my name is Crown Royal apple with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in a low ball glass.
@theacer786411 ай бұрын
Is it possible to have a darker shade of black? How if so? And what exactly are the metals that can be blued? Awesome video thank you!
@Warlock.MFG.Co.11 ай бұрын
In regards to cold bluing, yes. You can make it darker in color by applying more layers of bluing; then once you’re done just rinse it with water, dry off, and let the metal soak in oil for about two hours. Hope this helps!
@EngineerSteve10 ай бұрын
@@Warlock.MFG.Co. Exactly
@EngineerSteve10 ай бұрын
A little bit of a darker shade might be possible with hot bluing when getting the part to a higher temperature, if you want to have a darker shade I would suggest cold bluing. I am not aware of hot bluing being effective on any material, other than steel/iron. Other metals might require chemical processes.
@Lukelins111 ай бұрын
Take a little sandpaper for glossy parts. Ruff it up
@EngineerSteve11 ай бұрын
Good one! that will make it quicker
@SheikhAzmat-i2g Жыл бұрын
My 12 gauge single barrel got rusted, due to the rust all smoothness and finishing gone for ever.Gunsmith here applies different methods to restore the original Bluing but still its not good. I learned a lot from this video, please help me further for the nice results.Thanks Steve for the superb upload.
@SameerKhan-gm4ny Жыл бұрын
Nice
@EngineerSteve Жыл бұрын
Thank you
@LBCAndrew Жыл бұрын
Don't go using this on gun parts. Getting the steel that hot will ruin the hardening and tempering of the steel.
@sierraecho884 Жыл бұрын
Hot bluing basically destroys your part, since it´s a head treatment technique. It´s also the worst method to prevent corrosion in steel. It´s only a very very thin layer which needs constant oiling. Do zinc plating or painting instead if you want to preserve your parts structure not cause warpage and get better corrosion protection.
@EngineerSteve Жыл бұрын
@@LBCAndrew This process is also referred to as 'hot bluing'. It might not be the most usual but it is being used.
@deonlouw1198 Жыл бұрын
It IS bluing and defnitely more durable than any of the cold bluing solutions. Nice video Steve.
@EngineerSteve Жыл бұрын
Thanks for your comment! I am planning to compare the durability of cold and hot bluing to see what the difference is.
@LBCAndrew Жыл бұрын
This is NOT bluing. Heating steel till it turns blue ruins the heat treatment and hardness of the steel. Proper steel bluing is done using a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide, and boiling water.
@EngineerSteve Жыл бұрын
@@LBCAndrew Depending on the desired specification, the state of temper/hardness does not always matter. Nevertheless it is important to have some knowledge of how the steel might be affected.
@Claud031 Жыл бұрын
Does it have to be vegetable oil
@EngineerSteve Жыл бұрын
Not necessarily, I chose for vegetable oil because it is cheap and accessible. It will work with other oil as well, I am unsure whether the results will be different or not.
@Chandler7157 Жыл бұрын
@@EngineerSteve Can you blue a part over and over again to add layers of blueing? sorta like hot salt bluing?
@gennadyyakubovich4076 Жыл бұрын
Sorry to see you grinding away back-gear mounts. it is extremely useful part and you will regret that !!!
@EngineerSteve Жыл бұрын
Maybe I will but the problem is that there are some parts missing to make the original driveline work and there are no parts available. For me it was a choice between making this machine work again or leave it unusable.
@atothek180411 ай бұрын
I was also horrified by the removal of the supporting structures. I should perform a similar mini lathe motor modification. Now the transmission of the motor installed is counterproductive as in the video. The chunk rotation speed is far too much If I don't use back gears for a decrease speed. My intention is to add a reduction gear between the motor and the lathe. Example similar belt transmissions type is used many press drilling machines. But if you will be able to fulfill the intended purpose with a motor change, thumbs up! 😊 Perhaps the frequency converter could work on the decrease in chunk revolutions ?