Twisting the plug in with the bit is the right way. The twist inside the tire/tyre gives it a better seal. You just pull the bit out - no twisting.

hi there,my samsung DW60M6055FS is approx 18months old and now died ,any ideas pliz?

So many elbows. I bought probably double whats needed. I u should sell the elbows in a kit. Id pay double. Make a part list of elbows in the comments. Don't worry about pipe lengths. Help the next guy out.

The Pioneer 700 rear final drive has no differential.

Thanks for the video Sir.

Seems into the flex zone where sidewall meets tread. I have my doubts. Traditionally a failure prone place for a plug, or even a patch. I'd plug it too, but next chance I get find a new or good used tire.

Some fine ingenuity from these gentlemen

Great idea!

thank you bud

If the caliper piston needs to spin to retract/extend, then why do you put the pad with the guide-pins on the back-side against the piston? Shouldn't the smooth pad be placed against the piston? That's probably why you had one old pad like new and the other worn down to the metal!

Im stay stock..too much ghetto crap on a nice honda

Never twist in the plug. Straight in all the way and pull out fast to cut the plug. Thats it.

The pins need silly grease. Clean 1st.

I have a similar problem with my truck, so this is a very useful information thanks!

Good job very nice 👍

It's my understanding that repair should not be done if puncture is outside of the outside groove. Do you disagree? Did this repair last? Thanks.

wow

That’s cool

The drill being bigger than just using the screwdriver handle tool that comes with these kits makes the difference, drill takes all that pressure off the hand so not as sore, nice video

🏆⭐😎🙏 Thank you for sharing this

😂Sorry, you need 6 pieces of 2-1/4" long of 1-1/2" pipe. I said 4. There are 2 more at the bottom of the rubber Fernco 90. Sorry

Thank you

I have the T handle kit, I been drilling first before reaming, makes inserting plug easier.

Last tire we had repaired. I took it off the car and handed it to repair . 1 nail. 26$. 26 Freaking $??? I would consider this.

I've owned Dodge trucks for years. Had a 92 Dakota that I put over 200k on with no issues. I bought A Ram new in 2001 that I still own with 185k, no issues. Recently bought a new to me 2011 Ram Bighorn with only 48k miles figuring I would have a good truck but it's been constant issues. I am now fighting massive amounts of water intrusion into the cubbies under the rear seat. I replaced the 3rd taillight assembly hoping that would solve it as it would fill up with water. I bet I will need to do this as well. I also watched the video on the sliding rear window leaking water into the cab. They just don't make these trucks like they used to! I'm very disappointed in my 2011. This should not be an issue with these trucks. Thanks for the information ☺️👍.

looks good

Thank you!

Samsung DD92-00059A Dishwasher Electronic Control Board

I am having the same problem. I am probably going to put a solid back glass.

Thanks so much for the video... extremely helpful.

Did you ever find where to get that bottom weather strip?

Probably right. So far so good though. We got 10" of rain in two days and plus the daily rains here in Florida and it's hanging in there. I still check it regularly out of habit.. Thanks for commenting

Probably won’t last long. Most likely will need a glass company to do repairs

i use slightly small drill bit size of tire plug tool. lube and insert plug SWist pull out.done

Genius

What is your Samsung dishwasher model number? We are trying to do the same thing.

That looks a lot easier than the hand tool method. Gotta get one of those kits and toss that hand stuff. Thanks for the video!

Awesome video, thank you for the tutorial!

Thanks!! Hoping this is my issue… Spent hours diagnosing mine after an error 4E occurred once and never again. Dishwasher stopped filling with water and it would continue running the cycle as if it had water the whole time. Inlet valve is not receiving power for some reason and I can only guess it’s the control board because everything else is intact. Board shows no signs of failure visually, but I am unsure how to verify that so I’m going to replace it and hope that works. It’s such a pain to determine the issue, and it sucks because the washer is only 2 years old and looks like new. Was working beautifully until this.

I believe the hub torque is a 101 foot-pounds.

Good Luck. My repair is still working well. Sad they don't make these better quality.

I’m so glad I came across your video. I was having the exact same issue that you mentioned and I followed your few troubleshooting steps. I’m about to order the control board and hopefully this will fix my issue.

What is the name of the part?

Good note about the COTTER pins

Thanks for the info! My husband did it easily!

Thanks, it was very informative and work!