Have to do this cable replacement on 4 valves, hope that fixes the issue. Thank you for the video, they sure don't like to run these cables straight from the factory which would help.

Thank you for sharing this video. I had a Handyman replace this, but he is stuck because the cable does not pull out. Any ideas why this would happen?

Excellent video on how to do this seemingly daunting task! Thanks very much for this. You did an excellent job with the filming and explanations. I just tore my 2020 Winnebago 2500FL apart to replace or fix this cable. I struggled for over an hour trying to find the head of the Allen screw in which you have inserted the Allen key at time stamp 3:23 in your video. The silver cylinder that I expected to see the head of the Allen screw had no holes whatsoever. There was no hole nor Allen head visible below the slot. I put a cell phone above the slot using the camera in selfie mode and it wasn't visible from above either. After examining it for a long time I discovered that the silver cylinder block is threaded on to the solid rod that goes back to move the valve. Being threaded, I wondered if I could rotate it to reveal the Allen screw. Twisting the cable had no effect so I inserted a flat screwdriver into the plastic slot below the cylinder and was able to twist it enough to reveal the Allen screw. Eureka! I was then able to unscrew the Allen screw and remove the cable. I also noticed there is a small, longish Allen screw in the plastic block that is attached to the valve end of the cable which needs to be removed in order to shorten the cable. After removing the entire cable assembly I pulled the cable out, flattened the handle-end shaft with a hammer and file, cleaned it with carburetor cleaner and re-greased it. I can now slide it in and out by pulling on the narrow shaft with my fingers. It would probably work well, the tight curves left in the cable by Winnebago's installation notwithstanding. My cable is 72" long and coiled in one completed loop before attaching to the valve. The valve is only about 3 feet away from where the handle is mounted. Not to Valterra's specifications, I suspect. I will order a new cable to install and keep the old one for a spare. My original cable got damaged when some n'er-do-wells yanked my black valve open while we were staying at a Cracker Barrel in Abilene, Texas. Thanks a ton for taking the time to make this video!

I have a 2010. It was a lot easier. Just popped off the plastic cover with a plastic trim tool. Used a drill with 1/8 attachment Unscrewed both screws. Pulled out damaged assembly and disconnected plug. Reconnected plug and inserted and locked into new headlamp assemby. Set assembly in place. Tightened both screws. Snapped outer trim back in place. Done.

Awesome for filming that while working with one hand. The newer valves have openings on the side. Now I see why. Good call on relocating the bracket, will be nice to have it further from the slide out too. I don't know why they put these handles under the slide outs so much. Gotta crawl under there to drain the tanks when you're seasonal. Ty for the upload.

THANK YOU. Been searching and sorting through so many incorrect videos to figure out how to do this because these years are completely. You should adjust your video title to include 2012-2015 models because you cant find this video anywhere and this was perfect.

I was able to purchase just the new Glass Lens wondering if I can replace it from the outside or do I need to remove the whole assembly to replace it

did you find the cable for sale without having to pay for the whole valve? cant seem to find just the cable

E tremble y well done. Tons of thanks!

Excellent video! Good step-by-step instructions! Good camera work! Thank you!

Good video, I highly recommend this to everyone.

I’m in the midst of this repair currently. I found cutting the steel cable housing very difficult to cut to the desired length. Couple of tries before I figured it out. I had an extreme bend as well which was the root cause of my failure. Goes to show how the manufacturer’s just slap these together and not care. Now I have to deal with it. For me, I just had to flip the gate 180 degrees and it’s a straight throw now….

I’m trying to do this but there are a lot of spider web under that cardboard😮, darn it! And the mobile repair guy wants $500 to fix it for me….🤬

There is an easier way to do this. You might need another person but you dont need to take the wheel off or take the fog light out at all.

The 12 in loop makes it feel like its springing

Right to it, thanks brother!

Good video. I'll mention that once the prop is removed as shown you should pay attention to the white plastic prop "bore ring" that remains on the lower unit. It snaps into place and should be secure against the lower unit. The fingers (snaps) do have history of breaking and if the bore ring is loose it can cause cavitation of the prop. A number of YT videos show this. A replacement if needed can be got for about $6-8. Cheers!

What a pain in the butt.

It look like yourlower unit is got a gap in it isnt it supposed to but up against each other 😂😂😂

Great job, I replaced my cable and the handle comes out of the mounting tube. Like you I do not read through the instructions and skipped the step of cutting the cable to the proper length. I’m glad I watched your video first

Thank you for this video. I changed out the fog light bulb on the drivers side a week ago from halogen to LED and this was super helpful. Toughest part for me was putting the bumper back together with the clips. Overall saved time and $$$$ by not having to go to the dealership.

Thanks for the video

What a huge pain

Thanks for documenting. Good information

How did the new prop work out?

Your like the only one that shows how to remove the fog lights on the upper level trims. EX-L and Touring. I guess having the upper trim has it “privileges”. 😅

That was great. Just what I needed, same exact thing happened to me. Thanks.

Where do I get adapter

I wish we could sue the engineers at Honda 😆

The plastic hub is designed to crack to prevent damage to the outboard. I just learned that and wanted to pass it on. 👍

Very well done instructional video, friend. There are several other videos on YT that skipped steps, or performed steps Off Camera, which leaves a novice having to search further for details (such as inserting the hub sleeve, greasing the splines before replacing the prop, etc...) You did not skip steps; you were thorough, did everything in front of the camera, and it's very much appreciated. The floating prop wrench was particularly good advice!! I'm having to do this job myself and a grateful for having found you. Happy boating and thanks again.

You have good knowledge for a rookie. I appreciate your attention to details. I am not a rookie boat owner, but have never carried a spare prop. Thanks to you, I will now. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and sharing it with us. Happy boating my friend.

GREAT video. You helped me more than you know.

Awesome ! I need to re-route my Black tank cable too. Who can understand the design process?

Thanks! I did the same thing and pushed the stuck valve to hard and bent it and was not successful in trying to straighten it out! your video broke it down clearly, mystery solved!

Thanks. Perhaps the most ridiculous design I've seen in a long time.

Im 52, and a single chubby lady lol. Im going to tackle this next week because the mobile people want $405 to travel to me and $135 an hr for the repair. I too bent the handle and have a new 2022 chapparel 3 months old. Cant get a warranty appointment to save my life.

Thanks for the video…. I hit a deer today in my 2013 pilot exl. It pushes the entire fog light assembly back. I saw a plastic clip sitting on the ground, and am wondering if the fog light housing mounts to a bracket or directly to bumper. The housing for light is crushed, and it broke out of whatever it screws in to. Was wondering if bracket can be replaced along with fog light housing, or if the entire bumper needs replaced. Not sure what light gets attached to. Any idea?

Great job and video. Ty

Do you have a link to that prop? And is it faster than the one before?

Needs the little bend on the tip you inserted in the cylinder at the valve. The screw goes in it when you tighten it down on the cable.

Sir you would be absolutely no use as a government employee!! Not only did you replace what was broken but you fixed the problem!! 😉👍

Good Evening... Great video.. how did you determine where the valve was under the underbelly? Was it it lucky guess or did you have a diagram of your unit?? Thank you

Nice job,great thinking outside the box.

Bravery is an over rated quality. Ask yourself : what could go wrong? Then back off, or forge ahead.

Very helpful, thanks!

Just picked up a 2019 Coachmen Freedom Express 321 this weekend. The gray valve is stuck closed and I believe the cable has come loose. This video has helped me out tremendously in understanding how I can repair the problem. Thank you so much!

Well, this video is fantastic. I'm currently trying to figure out if the cable to the valve is broken and this showed me how to get there. My biggest problem is the black tank is full to the brim. I don't know if the drain valve is stuck or plugged. Gonna be interesting to say the least. Anybody got a spare snorkel?

I appreciate this video ty sir

Awesome video, great instruction. I about wet my pants when you said something to the effect that you don't understand why the factory would do something like this. LOL! I have re-attached flexible furnace ductwork that was taped to a plenum with 2" of duct tape (of course it fell off), a 2" hose duct that was as tight as a banjo string (of course it also fell off), grossly undersized C-channel bars to support 2 of my holding tanks which caused one to split and leak because it sagged so much, and on and on. And when I removed the Coroplast to get to my tanks, about 43 wires, 4 hydraulic hoses, and 3 plumbing hoses just fell almost to the ground. Many cable-ties later...