They are indeed dyed. I offer them for sale on my website if you’re curious or interested. Rainbowwood.be or atelierqube.be

Feel free to contact me here or on IG if you have any questions. Best of wishes! 😁

@@AtelierQube Many thanks, do you deliver to the UK?

I do, but I’ll have to ask you to order via email because the website doesn’t allow it since the brexit. [email protected]

Thanks, that’s really kind! You’re not wrong 😅 most of my work requires a lot of patience. But I think it was totally worth it 😁

It’s my pleasure 😁 Hope you liked it and if you ever try it or have any questions feel free to contact me. 👍

Thanks buddy! What do you think about the video in itself? Got any pointers for me? :)

Hehe I will! :) I'd hate to catch one of those beams with my head or leg... brrrrr.

Sorry I had missed your comment. You could work with 2 sizes of bolts of that’s easier. Or indeed a longer one that could ‘span’ the two desired lengths. T-nuts, check! I’ll try and remember it 😉

Sorry for the late reply, it seems I missed a couple of comments. In this particular case I used regular wood glue since it was for an indoor project. But you should be able to use any glue. I’d prefer working with glue that has some working time though. You don’t want to rush a glue up like this 😉

Oh jeez I missed a couple of comments so it seems… It’s what I’m calling Rainbowwood. It’s birch veneer coloured through and through using alcohol based dye. Rainbowwood.be for more info 😉

@@AtelierQube Cool, thanx!

I've used the Leyland acrylic primer undercoat (for both face undercoat and edge as well) and despite knocking back with 400 / 600 / whatever grit - still can't get it looking fabulous. I mean - it looks ok. Maybe just my crap technique?

@@MatSmithLondon is it the edges that's not as good as you want? When I give my pieces their first coat I start with all the edges then hit the faces then hit all edges again so essentially giving them two coats in one, that way I find it gives a good amount of build up to knock down without removing all colour, I also prep with 220 then 320 before I prime.

Hmm not the ideal situation if you ask me… I hope my English is good enough for this one: The thing is; you need warmth or heat to soften the lignin and cellulose in the wood. The colder the stiffer… Hence why they steam wood 😉 But also knots and such don’t really add ‘ flexibility’ I do hope you make it work though. If you have any questions feel free to ask 😉

Avec plaisir! 😊

Thanks for the tip! Any good products you could recommend?

Oh! That’s so nice to hear! Glad to help 😊 feel free to contact me if you have any questions 😁

Happy to help 😁 feel free to contact me if you have any questions 😊

Be sure to follow me on IG 😉 I will probably show it there first

Thanks! 😊 I made one… but it’s one of the very first I ever did. I’d have to make it again one day cause my audio back then was not good at all. But since you subbed you’ll be the first to know when it goes live 😁🫶

@@AtelierQube Cheers…I’ve watched some of your other videos and realised you’re laminating coloured veneer…I wasn’t sure if you dyed the wood yourself or not. I’ve since been drooling over coloured veneers on Google and now I know what to look for, which is sadly beyond my budget at the moment…but I can dream, lol! Your designs and tutorials are great by the way. 😁👍🏻💕

@@trappedinroom1014 oh that’s really nice! And especially nice to hear! I hope we can create a positive mentality around Rainbowwood and be a counter for all the negative going around on YT and social media in general 🤞 We’re you from? Maybe I can help you to get started. Feel free to send me an email.

You can cut up an old saw plate and make card scrapers out of it. Usually old saws are pretty cheap. Japanese saws are generally not sharpenable. So those old blades are basically garbage. If you feel bad about sacrificing an old hand saw.

@@1pcfred oh that’s some nice info, thanks. Maybe we should try that @jonanas.mp4 and make a video about it 😉

More then welcome by the way! I love sharing info. I mean I don’t have time enough to try everything I want so 😅

@@AtelierQube duuuude i would love that! ill shoot you a dm :)

Hehe thanks :)

Hehe no worries! I had lost the footage from that one. That’s why it’s not in there. I was hoping the wood glue would have gone deeper into the fibres. But it didn’t perform as I hoped/thought. It sanded right back of to be honest. So I wouldn’t bet on that route. Thanks for watching and leaving a meaningful comment. If you have any questions feel free to contact me! Happy building!

Hello, thanks for your response 👍! May I ask which ratio water/woodglue you would have used? I found on the internet a ratio of 10/1, so very deluted. On the forum mentioning this ratio, there where pretty positive results. I'm really fond of these kind of videos where people compare different methods. In most cases there are a lot of different videos on each of the different methods, and the creator of the video always finds his method the best one 😁. Rarely a video which makes the comparison and choosing the right/best method more difficult. Unfortunattly the system still doesn't alow more than one thumbs up🙂. I read my initial reaction again, I hope I didn't came off a little strong 😬. Grtz you find

@@dieterpareyn1803 no worries! I don’t mind remarks if they’re supported by some explanation 😉 To be honest I didn’t measure it. I followed my guts on that one. I wanted to make sure it still had some glue to it, but still watery enough to penetrate as good as possible. Without real succes on my end. Feel free to let us know if it works for you. I feel KZbin is a place where we all can learn 😉

I hope you mean that in a good way 😅

Oh for sure! And it’s so much more fun working with well maintained tools as well

Thanks again! 😊 I’m starting to wish I had more videos 😉 But no worries I’ve got some coming up. After some personal issues I’m getting back on the wagon as we speak 😁🎉

Thanks 😊 feel free to let me know if you have some questions. Or let us know if you build something like this one day 😉

You are so welcome! Hope it helps 😁

Thank you for taking the time to leave a positive comment. 😉 You’re welcome! I love doing deepdives likes this. It’s one of the best ways to learn new things.

That's a great idea, thank you.

I’m pretty sure that would work. Although it’s messy to work with, it’s pretty strong and stable. Especially if you think about the things you’d normally hang on French cleats. I think it’s plenty strong 😊 Let us know if you try it! 😉 I’ll keep it in mind for a future video as well 🙃

@@AtelierQube Thanks, I think I will give it a try, I'll update in the future

Thanks 😊

Epoxy the edges like in the video and then route off the edges. Epoxy gives the hardest edge wich is probably best for routing.

Thanks Adam! Glad these tests helped you. What option are you going for? (I’m always curious 😅)

finally he went to his hobby

😅

Hi Dario, thanks for the nice feedback! Oh, totally! Especially if you work with more accessible wood species. You could also combine the Rainbowwood for the ends (for the visible parts) and fill in the middle part with glue or a cheaper kind of wood. Feel free to let me know if you give it a go. Happy building!

Thanks for the feedback 😁 It’s my pleasure! Feel free te let me know when you try it 😉

@@AtelierQube I may try it on a small project, though my skills are largely hitting things with a big hammer :)

@@dfn808 hehe you’d make a fine blacksmith then. Or maybe you are already? 😅 Either way ; happy building!

se llama Rainbowwood. es una madera contrachapada que hago yo mismo. algunas personas también usan patinetas recicladas. Usé el traductor de Google para esto, espero que tenga sentido 😅 it's called Rainbowwood. it's a plywood i make myself. some people also use recycled skateboards. i used google translate for this, i hope it makes sense 😅

@@AtelierQube Gracias.

The more you know, right? ;) I made my kitchen table with the same technique and the kids just LOVE it :D Thanks for the positive feed-back <3