Thankyou for posting this information. My cube has been immobilized for 5 months now. Thanks to your discovery, I can now fix the issue without paying Nissan another $2,000.00+ to "fix" the issue to only have it recur within months.

is this for key start cubes also or just push start

Just did this for the wife's car. You're a life saver 👌

Thank you so much the video I just bought a 2009 Nissan Cube had it towed to my house a week ago, I was scratching my head until I saw your video it works very well now. Cost me 20$ for material to cut the box open.

I tried this and it worked but my steering is hard now any ideas ?

had this issue with my 2010 yesterday. Lucky for me I was at home and had Cube #2 in the garage.

I'm here to thank you for this video. This morning my car wouldn't start. No joke about 3 hours later with the help of your video my car is back on track. Thanks!!!

Thanks so much for this video. You just gave me the confidence to buy one the won't start. I bet this is the issue.

Great video - interesting to see how these fail as you mentioned the little motor still ran ? - i assume it spins the cog which in turn pulls out the locking bit away from the steering column & in doing so presses in those 2 buttons/micro switches ?................ if so, i wonder where in that sequence something fails

What do we have to take off to get to the box? Like the plastic around the steering wheel??

I am about to attempt this 😮

Thank you so much for video. Just did this today and started right up. Your a life saver

Good job

Appreciate it. I was able to fix my car today. Only cost me about $77 because I had to buy a dremel to remove the 2 annoying screws to lose the module itself. (Sunday March 26,2023)

How long did the fix work?

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this hack it's worked perfectly on my 09 Cube and saved me hundreds of dollars

Thank you. Youve save me allot of money🎉🎉

How did you remove the cover behind the steering wheel? I'm having the same issue.

Ugh, just happened to us today! I did some research and I see a recall campaign, ID # P1225. The bulletin is dated June 23, 2011. Also just curious does your Key light stay on now?

Thank You very much!!! Our car just went out because of the steering lock and your video was the first one to pop up. We tried out what you suggested and our car worked! Thank you again!

Thanks for this you saved me about £900

your the best!😮

Omg it actually worked! My cube sat for over a year, came across this video and you saved my cube. THANK YOU!!! You are a life saver

I've completed this, car starts drives fine but it likes to drain the battery over time. Im guessing the illuminated key symbol means some circuit is activated...

Tried this, unfortunately my issue goes deeper it'seems

Is the pins that were drilled out clevis pins you can normally just pull them out. Doing this will only override the system temporarily tell Pat's security system realizes what's going on You will then have to get your vehicle out of safe mode which is not easy. I would highly recommend reshottering the 2 relays only $37 for parts. The bolts however for the box mount on steering wheel are m1.25 13mm bolt

How to fix a failed Steering Lock Unit (SLU) I sorted through a number of comments (kzbin.info/www/bejne/poibo55jq7SJiKs, kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnfSe6tvpaybarc) and put together a simple procedure that worked for me. Here it is: Quick fix to get back home: (note that the light stays on once done and that the vehicle needs to be in a locked state when performing these steps). Once the SLU has been opened and the steering lock circuit board is free from the casing, plug it back in to the wiring harness, lock the doors and then follow the below steps: 1. With FOB, unlock the doors (note: steering lock is engaged when the doors lock or when anti-theft is armed). 2. Press the start button to go into accessory mode (don't press the brake yet). The motor on the steering lock circuit board will turn with the expectation that it unlocks. While the motor is running press the two turquoise switches and hold. The motor should stop turning. 3. While still holding switches down, depress brake pedal and start the car. 4. While still holding switches down, turn car off. Do not lock doors. 5. While still holding switches down, disconnect steering lock circuit board from the wiring harness. 6. Leave the steering lock motor on the circuit board (some unit may not work without it) but remove the gear and plunger (not attached to the circuit board). 7. Unsolder the two turquoise switches from the circuit board. 8. Solder jumper wires between the center contact of each switch and their innermost contact (the one furthest away from the edge of the circuit board). Note: For a quick fix, steps 7 and 8 can be replaced with the following: using a small piece of metal and tape (or tie-wrap), permanently hold both switches down by placing the piece of metal on top of the button switches and holding it in the down position with tape (or tie-wrap). 9. Re-connect steering lock circuit board to wiring harness. 10. Start vehicle and if it works then problem is fixed. If not, try removing ESLC fuse for a minute then replacing if the car won't immediately start or if you did modification without the car running. It may take a minute or two for the computer to recognize the Module, open and close the door a few times, once it senses it, starts up every time afterwards.

Thank you so much for taking the time to post this - despite the "embarrassment" ; ) Do you happen to recall what the cube was doing when it was ailing? Like when you pushed the button what happened? Mine just quit on me last night and some are saying that the ESCL isn't the issue but nobody knows what the ESCL symptom/behaviour is.

It worked. It didn’t work at first but I turned the wheel back and forth for a few seconds and the ignition beep turned on. I pushed the start and it came on.

We did this and it worked fine, and was able to drive it for a couple of days. The only problem is that now my car isn't even recognizing my key fob anymore. So I cannot even attempt to start the car or anything. We just replaced the battery in the key fob as well. The ESCL controls the car being able to sense your key fob right? Not sure what I can do now.

LOL You're my kind of DIY'er! Thanks so much!

My engine light is stuck on,I've no idea what chip it needs? ☹

di the car just not turn over, or start and die?

Hi Mary, I'm having the same problem.I noticed that the key light on her car is still on. Is that ok?

Thank you funny lady. My Cube is fixed thanks to you. After repairing, the dash lit up, but wouldn't start. I noticed the horn was soft when locking with remote and wipers were kinda sluggish and only rear windows would go down, not front. How weird, so I charged battery for a few hours and BINGO! Fired right up. I think my battery was weak because I had flashers on for about 1.5 hrs before I got my tow. I did have to remove instrument cluster to get a screwdriver to fit in there to unscrew the security screws that I had to cut slots into. Remove plastic dash bezel around cluster first. Pops right out. Two screws hold cluster at bottom and pops straight out. Two clips attach cluster in center. I used 2 small zip ties instead of duct tape. I also used air compressor to remove any metal shavings from housing and circuit board. Thank you so much. I am sooooo... happy! Cost me $0.

How do you remove the cover

I have the same car, It is awesome no problems at all 140 000 miles runs like new. I flush all the fluids, change all filters, changed all spark plugs and spark plug wires. Ceramic brake pads. Go to a great mechanic and have them do a 3 step fuel fuel injection cleaning service. Make sure they use BG products. It gets rid of all carbon build up The car roars now. Also use royal purple engine oil it is better then mobil 1 one oil. It drives like a race car now!!!! Also use Trico Titan wipers they work the best. ALso buy the royal purple oil filter and change serpentine belt every 80 000 miles to be safe.

Getto hook-up. Now someone can hotwire your cube in 10 seconds

I appreciate this video soooo much ! Thank you 🙏

Anyone figure out how to get rid of the yellow key logo in the dash once the car is started and driving?

Can this work on a 2011 Nissan Cube

The key light does stay on after this fix but I didn't have any other problems. I thought that perhaps pulling the 10A ESCL F4 fuse in the Power Distribution Module (PDM) would solve that problem but that didn't work. I may work on that issue later. One commenter indicated that after the fix, their car wouldn't "go fast". While they may have been joking, just to make sure I took the car to the freeway and easily got to 80 mph no problem. No "check engine" light either, so I think my ECU is happy and my car is OK. At this point, the car has accumulated another 200 miles of all types of driving and it has reliably started every time. If your car has problems after this fix, the first question I would ask would be Is your "check engine" light on? If so, you may have an additional unrelated problem that is triggering the ECU into "open-loop"/"limp-mode"/"safe-mode". For those with a CVT, if the transmission gets too hot, the car will limit your speed until the transmission temps get back to safe levels. This is known to happen in desert-country when traveling at "past-legal" speeds for extended periods. If you plan to do that, I'd think about adding an additional transmission cooler. Regarding this KZbin ESCL "fix", there is a delay between when you first connect the ESCL and when the car will first start. If necessary, go through the cycle of connecting the ESCL box and trying to start several times. Once the car starts once, it seems to continue to work w/o problems. Another tip: Make sure when you tape the two micro-switches down, you don't cover the ground pads on the back-side of the circuit board (under the screws that hold the circuit board down). While I don't know that these grounding connections from the board to the aluminum box are absolutely necessary, I would not modify the engineered design by insulating the grounding pads with tape. What I do know is CRITICAL is that you don't screw down the board if it isn't already sitting absolutely flat to the aluminum mounting surface. Too much tape or tape on a "grounding pad" could easily make this happen. Damage that board by flexing it under screw tension and it's "game over" until you get another ESCL box. I used clear self-fusing silicone tape to do the job. It won't decompose with age or in the heat. I first put a small piece of "extra" tape just over the switches themselves as protection to prevent the switches from someday penetrating through (and thus not being held sufficiently down). I felt I needed extra tape there, but (once again) it is absolutely CRITICAL that you do not make too many wraps of tape around the circuit board itself, else you will not be able to safely reinstall and screw down the board in the aluminum box without damage to the board and/or the risk of bad ground-pad connections. To prevent damage to the circuit board, I didn't stretch the self-fusing tape as tight as I usually do. Instead, after installing, I pinched the tape with needle-nose pliers to "fuse" it together, and I added 3 tiny zip ties perpendicular to the tape wrap so as to prevent the tape from ever coming apart. I put one of these zip ties through the holes in the side of the switches, but I added two more, one as close to each top edge of the circuit board as I could get. If the tape ever comes apart or the switches break through the tape, it will leave you stranded. I know my tape is not going to come apart. After installing the tape, I carefully cut the tape enough to expose the grounding pad at the screw on the underside of the board. Instead of using zip ties to reassemble the box, I carefully drilled out the four rivets just enough to get the box apart, and then later used tiny carefully-chosen sheet-metal screws and lock washers to retap the holes and hold the box together. This is especially important if you leave the motor and gear assembly in place as there are significant forces when the ESCL is in motion and this tries to tear the box apart. In that case, I'd probably also use "Locktight" on the threads. The screws also make the repair look much more professional than tape and zip-ties do. BTW, an issue that can somewhat mimic or compound the ESCL problem is an intermittently bad brake light switch or transmission neutral switch, as the car is designed not to start unless the ECU can see that the brake pedal is depressed and the car is in neutral or park. If the brake lights don't always light, you probably have this problem, though just the fact that the brake lights work doesn't mean that the switch is failing to tell the ECU that the brake pedal is depressed. I had that problem with a 2008 Hyundai Elantra. Although there was only one "brake light switch" there were two separate circuits within it, one that goes to the lights themselves and one that goes to the ECU. Regarding the neutral switch, there is a small hole for a paperclip near the shifter that will allow you to take the transmission out of "park" before you try to start. Try putting the transmission lever to neutral instead and to see if the car will start. On some cars, this trick and perhaps a little bit of wiggling the shift lever around while you try to start will get you going until you can replace the neutral switch. Here is some excellent additional info, though some of it doesn't completely apply to our Cubes: www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/63260-links-posts-about-steering-wheel-lock.html www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/55425-diy-2009-2010-steering-wheel-lock-fix-w-pics.html (Caution- I do not know if cutting the brown or the pink wire works. If you choose to do it, make sure the steering wheel is fully unlocked when you cut it. I chose not to make the repair that way as I do not like hacking into a car's wiring harness unless it is absolutely necessary. One of the links above will take you to a pre-modified wiring harness that does this for you but it costs $50 and there is no guarantee it will work on the Cube.)

Good

When the car won’t start, the car switch to on?

God bless you for this video, it's saved me a fortune. One tip to anyone giving it a go, you need to turn the steering wheel to expose the two screws that hold the steering wheel surrounds, then they just clip off. You'll need to invest in some good drill bits to get the steering lock housing off and open. Thanks again.

I have the same problem, you inspired me going to try it today

My car doesn't want start at all is Nissan cube 2009

Hi there, before you've fixed your issue and attempted to start car, was there no crank sound at all? Or could you hear the car starter try to initiate but could not roll over? I may have this same problem, my car has been broken down for 2 weeks. There is no issue when the mechanic jumps the starter directly it starts without any delay. However, the push start button inside car doesnt roll over but half cranks. Please help

4:35 shows the buttons

Very helpful