Check the blog post... it has photos... if you don't plaster it then it will be 'unfinished'.. could probably work around this with some plastic trim / beading / coving etc The plasterer did a great job on mine so it's a perfect seam between the walls and roof.

it's all linked in the blog post - www.matt-thornton.net/general/converting-a-bosch-gks-18v-57-to-a-gks-18v-57-g/ --> 1 619 P11 908

so far it's held up fine. There has been the odd hairline crack which has been easy to resolve.

I’ve answered this a few times either in the comments here or on the blog but generally it’s been great and really happy with it. It’s withstood all the dodgy weather of the last 6 months no worries. The temps have been fine, a small space heater quickly warms it up if needed. Doors open in the summer keeps it cool. YMMV..!

It’s a nice space and although arguably it’s a man cave that doesn’t stop my small people and missus from using it!

Thanks for the insight there Reece. What's the link to your vid showing how to do that?

@@mrtgsy😂

I don’t blame you. Although I do use the saw a lot now… conversion worked really well and it’s easy to grab

The walls aren't designed to take them

​ @mrtgsy but you slotted them in, right? I mean the ones you show at the minute 7:49 I'm wondering if the model I want to go for (dominator Insulated) can also accommodate those. As I really don't rust them saying "Properly insulated"

@@damidammi hmm. Not sure. That model looks a bit different. In mine you got two sets of walls… the inner insulated plaster board stuff and then the outer which are like ‘shed’ walls… hence the gap to add extra insulation.

@@mrtgsy Thanks for looking into it! I'll ask them to confirm this spec. What exact model was yours?

@@damidammi image 10 on the listing shows the wall construction… says it comes preassmbled… I’m guessing therefore you can’t add extra unless you took the walls apart.

keeping a record Model 57-2 is not compatible with part of 57G I squandered $68 on it :(

@@Do9mA_7 Thank you for doing the legwork ahead of me. They did it for the 57, perhaps there's a new plate forthcoming for the 57-2 sometime in the future. Shame on Bosch for not releasing that option immediately, trying to sell saws twice the price.

There's loads of detail in the accompanying blog post, but the top tips are: (1) Make sure your base is level, has drainage and is properly sized (even oversized) depending on where you're putting it (2) Take time on the roof; it should just fit without adjustment (3) Think about internal layout carefully (and position of sockets etc.). If I was to do it again I'd probably do it differently now but hey ho. Good luck with the build.

On the blog post there is a pic of the guttering. I've just positioned it underneath so water runs over the lip and then catches in the gutter. Temp has been fine this year but it has been mild compared with last year. It's usually not a problem keeping temp even though.

probably need more heat

@mrtgsy thanks will try for sure!

hi, have tried to answer this question a few times now... there's no definitive answer because obviously it varies based on your location and how you like your building to be, and also i have no frame of comparison / reference so can't measure anything... ! so at best it's anecdotal... we haven't had a really hot summer this year so i've no idea if it would have turned in to a sauna, but last year with windows open and a fan it was fine. in the winter, i just had a small panel heater which was enough to warm it up and keep it warm. in other words, i would do it again... but i can't say definitively if it was required or not.

fewer than it took to respond to your comment

why does nobody read video descriptions? -> @InkMyRide (.co.uk);

Yes it’s been fine. It does get warm in the summer but windows open and fan on is fine.

No worries amigo

Yes, used a bonding agent... it's like the blue grit stuff except it was black. Filthy horrible stuff, but it has done the trick. Plaster so far has been absolutely fine - the very occasional hairline crack. There are more notes in the blog post but the plasterer I think intentionally used a wetter mix mostly due to the fact it was middle of summer and quite hot in there so he didn't want it to dry too quickly. Hope this helps.

(1) There are no gaps in the roof sheets; they overlap/butt together. Unless I've misunderstood what you mean. (2) The reason I plastered the walls is because the finish of the cement board they give you isn't great. Also, unless you build it absolutely perfectly the joints between the wall panels will be noticeable, which is why they supply plastic trims to cover, which in my view would look awful. I don't know if they expect you to wallpaper / paint the finish. However, to your point, the walls go on after the floor; so in theory there would be nothing stopping you taking the walls down later, if you really wanted to.

On my build of this same office now and your video has been a nice reference. According to the manual the walls go in before the floor but looks like it doesn’t cause a problem if wanting to do it the other way round (great for electrics etc)

You’d need to check planning regs in your area, but almost certainly not.

The roof flashing was definitely the worst bit of the whole kit. Did eventually get it in place but it got modified a fair bit around the corners (grinder...) to make it fit so that you could attach it...

tone not intentional... first time doing a voice over style video, not easy! but in the spirit of condescension... *you're ;) pleased it was useful though.

probably not hot enough

Afraid I can't remember exactly... I think it was 50mm in the walls and 80mm in the floor. I had quite a lot left over... think it's a case of measuring and ordering accordingly, sorry.

Likely 70mm in the floor (that’s the void gap between floor joists) and also air runs underneath through the bearers so no gap needed for airflow unlike the walls.

Hey Adam. This was 4.3m x 3.3m. I would go as big as you can. Also consider the model without the porch. It’s nice but takes up valuable space. Good luck.

It depends how novice...! It takes some confidence (and tools) and there are some things that need help... but generally speaking it's fairly straight-forward.

Hey mate. If it was me, I wouldn't bother. I'm pleased I did it, but I later managed to get the proper plunge saw on deal. So if you can afford it, I'd keep this one as/is and then try and get the plunge saw.

New door?

@@mrtgsy lol that's too expensive I think 😂 better take off the regulator