Thanks, it set me back by 2300€ exactly, but it highly depends on your location… I’m happy to help if you need any advice

@@bozidarbilusic Thanks! I plan to make a slightly bigger version (4.5 - 5 m) so that I have more battery space. But it will take a while. I'm copying it to Solidworks so that I have a better view of dimensions and can modify the frames a bit easier.

@@ctrlaltdude great plan, I’d have done the same if I had enough space!

Thanks ❤

Thanks! The car is having a rest since 2021, but I will make it run again for sure. I didn’t really think about the fuel consumption while it was in, but it was higher for sure…

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks! I hope that too

Thanks! I will try to include it into description somehow

Thanks! You got me there 😅

@9:42

@@youdoyouplayer8529 yeah smartass its still a slideshow.

Not really, no… lasercutting would probably speed up the process a bit though

Thanks! Cheers

Thanks! 😊

No, I didn’t use it on this project. However, it’s very good thing to have. I relied on spark plug colors and the sound mostly

That’s a good question. However, the problem is how to limit them to giving just enough

Because a 600cc engine revs twice the speed of that 1500cc engine So they have more or less the same airflow

Pipercross foam in a carbon fiber case I made

It can, but not as simple as with factory carburated engine such as the ones mentioned here.

This is not Weber, it's Keihin. IDK if Weber ever produced bike carbs

I don’t see why not :)

This foam filter? It’s pipercross, off some old BMW 5. Dont know the part number, it was a large tube of faom, and I just cut a small piece I needed

Hi, There’s no much space there, so unlikely

@@bozidarbilusic at DanST website they have 30mm, 50mm, or 90mm long trumpets. What do you think that fits? Can you tell me how much space until the firewall after the carburettors? Thanks!

4 900cc carbs or Carbs off one 900cc Bike?

How did it go?

@pummarinmuidaeng8395 Havnt got it running mint yet, wish I went Mikuni 36m carbs instead

It’s the same as it ever was, I kept the original distributor with vacuum advance

Where are you based Eb240, I'm just outside of brissy and currently doing this build also

@@AgentOfMadnes im in NSW blue mountains

Should add on socials, and share our builds ?

@@AgentOfMadnesI know this is a really old comment. But curious if you ever went through with this.

​@@EB240did you end up doing this?

Hitachi D4W88. It’s this car’s original distributor

@@bozidarbilusic Ha. Thank you so much. I thought my conversion was so genius back when I did it but I was too ignorant to check the EU market. I think I might try one out for another build that my friend and I are putting together.

@@bozidarbilusic for reference I was using autoline 8002

Ja bi prvo probao start sprejom po prirubnicama karburatora, one uglavnom stvaraju ovakav problem. A usput i sva druga vakum crijeva, ako imaš ona s brojevima, originalna, lako je moguće da puštaju. Mogu biti i membranice od power ventila na dnu karburatora, vidi ima li goriva u crijevima koja idu do njih (#14 ako se dobro sjećam). Probaj skinit filter zraka pa vidi kako radi bez njega

@@bozidarbilusic Probo sve od toga, gume na usisnu granu sam proverio, i za svaki slcuhaj prelepio da ne bi pustali, a nisu. Creva sam promenio. Da crevo je 14# al nemam benzina u crevo, a i super rade power ventili. Chak shto vishe iskljuchio sam sve shto ima membrana za svaki sluchaj...nishta. I Paljenje sam rastavio, i opet sklopio, vakum adnvace nije bio dobar, al sam ga zalepio membranu. Sad je dobar. Kad probam bes advanca, isto Idle raste mnogo. Hmmm. Stvarno nisam pametan. ...

@@milantocinovski8614 Teško mi je ovako reći.. eliminirao si i onaj vakum ventil od ler gasa? I tu zna bit problema, i bas takve simptome daje

@@bozidarbilusic Izvini opet ja, i moj losh srpsko-hrvatski. ... Improvizirao sam vakum metar jer nemam, uradio sa sphricem i federom. Vakum je ist, i na hladni i na topli motor. Tek sada sam zbunjen.

@@bozidarbilusic Uf, neznam shta je to "vakum ventil od ler gasa", jel to onj PCV valve?

I used 0.50 idle jet 150 Main and Moved needle up three spaces... I think my needle was set to high. Check my video out of my one

Hi man, thanks for the input. Seen your video, it’s looking nice. I used original pilot jets (42) and 150main jets. At first I used original main jets as well;132-135-135-132, and it was also ok, just a bit lean at wot

@@bozidarbilusic what about your needle jet can you send me a video where you drive your car

@@graysonyogenshapetersen4319 this cbr carbs don't have tunable needles, so I left it all stock.

@@bozidarbilusic please send me a video of where you driving the car

There are some power gains, but it’s highly subjective. I think there’s better potential in those webers if you want power. But yes, you can’t beat the sound 😀

Hey! It seems like there’s quite a few people interested in doing this so I’ll try to put together a video on how to build soon. Basically it’s manifold and carbs, you don’t need anything else, but it is nice to have a set of jets to tune it properly, some sort of vacuum equalizer and an afr meter

@@bozidarbilusic a how to video would be awesome!! i ended up doing some more research on the parts that ill need and i think ive got it down pat, ive got some zx6r carbs on the way too :)) something roughly step by step would be really helpful as there isnt really anything like it on the internet.. cheeeers

@@bozidarbilusic one question too, what balance bar did you use?

@@falkone8096 it’s called: Racing Aluminum Turbo Wastegate Boost Vacuum Intake Manifold 6 Port 1/8 NPT on AliExpress

Thanks, really appreciate it. It was tempting to go crazy with color choice, but I went with black

@@bozidarbilusic you can't go wrong with black. Makes it look like oem new! I think one day I'd like to pull apart my suspension and repaint everything. Looks so nice when its repainted. 😁

Pretty much none. But it would be nice to have a mechanically “advancable” distributor, which the d16y7 doesn’t have I believe

@@bozidarbilusic awesome! Thanks for the help

@@brettprisendorf924 I was able to adapt up a 1980s distributor for my d15b2. It’s doable. Vacuumed advance. No ECU.

Just manifold vacuum ports that connect to a vacuum equaliser bar and straight to a distributor valve. No problems with that

@@bozidarbilusic Thank you so much! I really want to pick your brain on this topic if you would let me? So if I use the distributor that came with the engine I have (nzdm d16a7) the vac advance dizzy will have the correct timing already? Even if I'm using a homebuilt manifold? I'll be honest I don't know much about this stuff, and the idea of a vauum line changing the timing confuses me, as I dont know what vacuum cases what timing. My current engine is a jdm d13b which has the dreaded vacuum box of death and a computer controlled pgm-carb, so I want to eliminate the ecu all together. Thanks again and sorry for the wall of text!

@@3dkiwi920 Happy to share what I learned, maybe I should make another, more detailed video... If your ignition timing is ok now, it will most likely remain so after this mod.Once you install this setup, you can set the ignition timing using a timing light by moving your distributor (clockwise to retard). Your D13b2 engine (in original) comes with a vacuum valve that constantly changes the ignition timing by a few degrees depending on a vacuum (duuh) in the intake manifold (hoses number 2 & 5 in the dreaded box). I'm not familiar with the d16a7 engine nor with it's distributor, it might not have that vacuum valve at all. In that case, you can eliminate all the vacuum hoses and have a clean manifold, but it will affect your engine's efficiency a bit, so if it's a daily driven car I would not advise it

@@bozidarbilusic OK cool! Yeah the d16a7 is pretty much the same as any other D series but about 9.5:1 and 115 hp, NZ only, it's injected. I can't believe you actually know something about the shitty vacuum box on the d13! ( its a jdm d13b btw, no data on it; not a d13b1 or d13b2) I want to build a daily driver, not looking for power at all, I just know that I dont want an ecu or any of that vacuum/computer carb crap because if it ever breaks I'm screwed; I can't even find info on it in Japanese ( the pgm-carb) I would rebuild the d13, but its very skinny on the bottom end. The car is a JDM E-EF1 23l. I understand timing in principle, how to set and rotate the dizzy to adjust it, but I assumed the vac advance on a carbureted engine would be very important at higher RPM as there is no way to 'set' it like you would electronic ignition; it's on a fixed curve which is unknown to me. Anyway thank you so much for your help, I've been thinking about this for years and it's so hard to find info on; I appreciate ya!

@@3dkiwi920 D13b is a great engine, it's a squared bore/stroke. Just to point your attention, if you can find dual carbs from a 1990 civic, that would be a huge difference in throttle response and power. It was sold in eurepe (ec9, d14a1) and in NZ i believe, in some d15... check it out before you decide

Keihin from a cbr 600 f3

The ones in video are AliExpress... crap Now I use original ones, but I didn’t change the dizzy so its all fine. How is your setup working? Jet sizes? Pictures? ;)

@@bozidarbilusic mines been running on three cylinders since it’s been done which I think is as a result of cylinder 1 (the longest wire) being waaaaaaaay too tight and stretched at the moment I’ve only changed the main jet to 180, once I have it running on 4 I’ll check timing then use my Aem afr to perfect the jet sizes, I’m assuming I’ll need to go down but loads more to do on the car yet, needs exhaust and throttle cable bracket making

You’ll probably want to use the one that makes more advance. If I remember correctly it’s the one closer to the distributor itself, but try it yourself