@@gailtenaglia4398 I don’t see why not. Apistogramma don’t seem interested in eating other fish.

@@darrenmilley2039 Always possible 😂

@@Viperaa-811 Rice. Add charcoal or carbon like you see here, then a little water, and then rice. The water creates humidity, the humidity causes the rice to mold, and the carbon removes the smell.

@@MattKeepsFish Tysm

@@matthew_thefallen Accurate. I believe I specified this.

@@ivandragomiloff2356 The point moreso is that media is better off cleaned in old aquarium water because it maintains the same environment that your bacteria was comfortable in. Have an established tank with lots of plants and areas for bacteria to grow? Probably not a major loss if some dies in tap water, but that’s just my 2 cents.

@@EthanMilley-o6s 😂😂😂

@@nyxsam I appreciate it!

@@aryaa7334 Amazing alt title 😂

@@crystalrose140 A high-quality flake does the job for me, but mixing in baby brine and daphnia would do wonders I’m sure.

@@dragonslash9834 Vallisneria americana, I believe.

@@gibbsongee9968 I’ve never managed to starve a fish to death, especially in a planted tank. If you’ve got food going in, they’ll be alright ;)

@@lauriechevy Hm, I haven’t dealt with that in ember tetras before. I would assume that it follows the same treatment for a molly with clamped fins however, which I have treated. From what I know, the clamped fin is the result of muscle decay. Something is eating it, or at least preventing its function. If you see white growth, assume fungus; if you don’t, we may assume bacterial. If you have a QT tank, isolate that fish in the tank now, otherwise treat using the bath method no more often than twice daily. The bath method entails that you add 1 tablespoon of dissolved aquarium salt into a bucket, then add the ember tetra. Wait for between 10-30 mins and then remove the fish from the bucket to either go into the main tank or your QT tank if possible. Acclimate slowly by floating the tetra in a cup/bag. Slowly add tank water while you wait 15 mins for the temp to adjust. Results are usually not instant. You may have to do this a few times before you find success, sometimes over a week. I will do more research on this, but start there.

@@MoistCrack Excellent question. I’ve found that some never colour up, even years later. These seem to die off quicker, and may be suffering from a chronic infection. That said, many of my healthy ember tetras just took a long time to colour up. Refer to my video of this aquarium when it was newer. I had only 3 ember tetras at that time, and their orange seemed to be quite bright.

@@MrsHall38 Yes, absolutely. I only use bio-sponges these days. Cartridges barely have any surface area!

@@2M3TAL4U Fair enough, although I wonder what they meant by “bad bacteria?”

@@strcat666 I didn’t know it was that old! Amazing! I don’t doubt that an aquarium can be nearly self-sufficient, but it does depend on what you’re willing to sacrifice to get it. 125 gallon with an Oscar? Sure. Self-sufficient? Good luck 😅

@@jonathanlopez5569 I think that’d be alright. I’ll recommend a decent school of both just to be safe.

@@SiameseBetta1 No, I have not. Just a honey gourami and sparkling gourami.

@@TheBigE_556 It’s true! Low bioload and small size means a small tank is a-ok