Yep,.. and yet I have three of them, all the same size. When will I ever learn

It did.. the problem is, a guy in Switzerland offered me double my purchase price for just the tractor. Couldn't pass it up. I've re-worked the blade on my new purchase.. just waiting for snow to try it out. Cheers!

Early MTD's are typically recognized as a well-built machine. Lots of 990's/960's from the 70's still working hard.

In the states, the old MTD's are considered to be decent machines. in reality, these old machines shared a lot of the same components from brand to brand such as engines and transmissions/hydros. so it all came down to frame and attachments that really differed from brand to brand. And back then they all used heavy steel to produce equipment intended to last a lifetime. Now days you gotta spend big bucks or buy old stuff to have something worthy.

I like blades best because you don't end up with a facefull of snow! The next vid will be the Yellow tractor again but with a vastly improved blade. Can't wait to show it off ;)

I think the blower will work well in colder weather. I will be spraying it with a better lubricant.

@@ontariotube You may want to try to line the drum where the auger and impeller are with 1/16" - 1/8" thick slippery UHMW Polyethylene sheet held in place with 1/4" or 5/16" elevator bolts(the ones with 1-3/16" diameter heads). The ultra wide but also thin head of the elevator bolt will hole the UHMW in place perfectly even better if you do a 1/16" deep counter bore with a Forstner bit so the head of the bolt and surface of the plastic are flush. UHMW-PE is ultra slippery(self lubricating, it is used as plain bearing material in some applications), ultra tough, highly abrasion resistant(TIVAR is used as cutting edges for snow plow blades so it will not scrape driveways, and is the same material snow sleds are made from, snow will not stick to it. The impeller drum could be lined to but I would use the smaller head 5/8" diameter elevator bolts as the radius in the impeller drum is much smaller so the elevator bolt with the larger head would bridge too much. You could also try silicone sprays or even rubbing on ski wax and heating to a liquid state with a heat gun or hair dryer and then rubbed all over the auger, impeller, and both drums.

@@chrisdaniel1339 Awesome advice! I'm sure other viewers will benefit from it too. I'm going to try an automotive wax on everything first just as an experiment. Cheers!

Hmmm... I forget. I'll follow up when I figure it out.

Just filmed that today (big snow came along). Will edit over the weekend.

Thanks, Yeah, I miss the days when KZbin was just us regular fella's playing with our toys in the backyard. Now hi-end TV shows made the move to KZbin to snag all those big dollar ads! Wish they made "KZbin Classic" to separate full-time vs part-time creators. Cheers!

@@ontariotube Couldn't agree more. I truly appreciate "the average guy" putting out good video content in a genuine way. Keep up the great work my friend!

It is a little worn at its mounting pin so it rides on a bit of an angle. I’ll fix that up some day as I still use this old machine all the time. Recently got a nice vintage bubble balancer too so I’ll have to show that off soon

They're fun tractors to play with. Very useful. I just bought a 2nd one that I'll show off eventually. I also did a bunch of research before settling on the basic barrel of Tractor Hydraulic Fluid from TSC. Seems to work just fine. Others may offer more qualified opinions.

@@ontariotube Thanks for the feedback! I think I'll be going with that same type of fluid as well as the tractor will not be worked as hard as it was intended when it was new. Thanks for the little sneak peak tip as well. Looking fowrard to seeing your 2nd tractor! Gotta love these tough old machines!

I don't have my cart any more, but when I did, I mixed it 40:1 2-stroke oil (any brand) to regular gas. The manual says 2.5oz non-detergent SAE 40 oil per 1 US Gallon regular gas.

I can’t read the name on the loader. I remember it being the same name as my scraper blade.. that I also can no longer read. I seem to recall “ee” in the name. The stock tractor hydraulics work just fine. I have a diverter valve on the trans just under the front of the seat. So it’s either the 3-point, or the loader. Not both at the same time.

Yeh, they announced helmets are mandatory at the driver meeting (my audio of that sucked so I left it out). Was kinda hilarious to see the old boys just shove it on and not bother doing it up 😂

Me too. My wife’s American. We plan on attending a mud bash in northern Michigan next year… just to see an actual crowd letting loose!!!

As a proud Canadian, we do support our communities we just do it differently than our friends in the South. ( more subdued I guess lol)

Kirkton demolition derby had tons of people this year. I think it was the biggest ever. There are places that get more support than this place did. If I learn the date I will come out to see this one for sure.

I just looked at some pics I have and they look correct. When you rev the engine, do the primary clutches engage the belt(s) forcing the belt diameter outward at the front and engaging the secondary clutches at the rear? I did drive this machine before breaking the chain, so I know they work. I know it's a dumb question, but you ARE running the engine when checking the drive right? (with both transmissions in neutral)

Try putting one transmission in forward and the other in reverse for a start. There's (3) ways to steer it. Remember, at slow speed you'll likely need to use foot braking. Here's my video on the steering methods kzbin.info/www/bejne/foTFqmBpp8iJj9E

Maybe it’s mine! I sold it about 3 years ago.

Good tip!... but I stopped it by selling it (LOL). Just not enough snow around London any more.