How do you get the ear in the actuator? You talk about it, but you don’t show us is there any way you could show us how to get that plastic ear in there?

Great video Mad Mehrt!!! Yes it was one MF'ing $hit job! F*ck Automotive engineers in their design!! Should have recorded our MF'ing audio during our installation (LOL). FOLLOWED THE INTRUCTIONS that came with the new mode door actuator. A) Vehicle, it's control panel OFF. Then HVAC FUSES removed for 1 minute. Then re-install those fuses. Again, NO FAN/AC buttons ON!!! B) Start the Vehicle and look under the dash to see the actuator moving both white components in their appropriate slots. It will stop when calibration is complete. C) Then on the control panels turn on the fan and start selecting for the face, feet, face-feet, feet-defrost and defrost mode. If calibrated, correctly you will feel face only and defrost only in those selected modes. We hope we die before we ever have to replace this MF'ing thing again!!!(LOL)

I broke the ear.. I hate myself.

My 2002 Tahoe has a weird issue where every 5 seconds it switches to each mode and will just go back between each mode. Tried 3 different climate control panels, put a new blend door actuator, and it’s still switching between all the modes. So now I just have no blend door actuator and it blows out the front vents forever lol

Love the language

Watch your mouth

Bravo! You braked the record on cursing!😢

Thank you finally this is exactly what I have to do ❤

Well shit the eighth one in mine is a Z

Thank u , this was exactly what I was looking for .

Litterly just did this and now it clicks when I put it on feet feet/window and window but doesn't on the opposite side have heat but 🤷

Excellent video. Short and to the point.

Pull both ac fuses and wait 20seconds. Put fuses back in and it might work. My 02 chevy has stopped blowing right, I oulled the fumes and waited 30 sec plugged back in and been 2 years.

You all must be midgets because I've been at this for hours and cannot get it

Your profanity is very welcome. I talk just like yourself especially when working on my own junk.

Mehrt the man ~ Thanks

Thank you bro really helpful 👍

Super easy to replace.. There’s a lot of comments saying how hard this job was. Had me thinking I was going to struggle.

Why does no one ever mention that Hondas are full of even more surprises with this tensioner (like sheared fastener)? Apparently, before applying final compression to put the belt back on, you MUST cycle the full compression range of the hydraulic tensioner over at least 3 seconds per cycle to "supposedly bleed" the tensioner before applying the "final" tension to the replaced belt. If you do not follow this procedure, apparently this hydraulic tensioner can build enough tension to shear off the bolt holding the tensioner on the block. The forums are full of owners talking about this and it happened to us the day we bought the car (used) literally as we were attempting to drive away. The seller had had a friend change the timing belt so the setup had as little as 5 miles on it before it broke. Luckily the seller had it redone so we could drive away.

You ain’t lying. I’m 6,3 308lbs. After many F POS bombs I finally got it definitely never doing that again 😂.

Very well explained step by step awesome video thank you

Yes you are Superman! Thank you for everything!.

Good video! Thanks.

Too many “F” Bombs. Please

WOW! I wish people knew what they were talking about before posting videos that clearly show they do NOT know what they are talking about. The NSBU connectors are factory sealed with waterproof sealant. You have to heat the connectors with a heat gun to soften the adhesive, and re-heat them when re-connecting. And you do NOT remove the neutral pin until after it is installed and set in the neutral position, and the bolts are tightened. It will slip out of neutral and be worthless.

If I'm not mistaken I believe both engines are the same. Romeo or Windsor, all parts are the same and interchangeable

no one else talks about the tab on the white gear money spent on new motors and here we are

Why didn’t you show the actual r&r procedure? We know what the part looks like.

This is the same for my 2009 Honda Accord and I appreciate the tip cause I’ve stripped the upper bolt on three different tensioners trying to get the belt on and off so this will definitely keep me from making the same mistake. Thank you.

Thanks buddy the vid was helpful

You’re the man!! Do you happen to have the link to this l?

Will They Work With A AR 15 7.62 Upper?

This video was very helpful. Unlike every other one I’ve tried. Thanks for actually pointing out specific bolts

Secret Psycho

Thank you MadMehrt. Fat old lady here.. can't afford the garages.. bought a new belt... old one is worn but does not appear to have THAT much damage... smh... I am trying to get anyone to do this for me but no one wants to.. I offered 100.00 to do it.. but no takers... must do it myself. So must take my fat ass and do it myself LOL appreciate the instruction and very good info. :) I am inspired...

You look like one of the game wardens on Lone Star Law. Lol! Good video. I like the way you explain which each knob controls.

hey man im about to install a cheap timing chain kit ($130 from amazon).. did you use a cheap offbrand one or oem? did it last you long? i keep hearing not to use the cheap ones... thinking about just using the guides and the old chain because the old chain only had 170k miles and looks good.. what do you think

It only lasted for a short time.

Great video bro keeping it real thanks

Your badass!! Love your video

It’s a 7/32 socket. It’s a American truck should be all standard. I’ve never used metric on mine.

Good video with a very quick description of what to do. Thanks! Also, when you mentioned the oil leak issue that was an eye-opener. I seem to be having alot of oil leakage on my '03 and was wondering if it was the oil pan seal.

I used your video and changed my control because it was dead. I will say, however, as have several others, the hardest part was lining up the new one. Took me about two hours, so I'm not sure how valid your '20 minute' comment is because this ain't my first rodeo working on my truck or other vehicles i have owned. It also would have been very helpful had you mentioned the screw heads were 5.5mm. I have complete sets of Metric and SAE tools but I've never had to use a 5.5mm socket previously, so I had to stop and run to the hardware store to pick one up. IN SPITE OF ALL THIS, I REALLY DO APPRECIATE THE VIDEO. IT TOLD ME EXACTLY WHAT I HAD TO DO. THANKS!!

20 minutes my ass

Man I really appreciate you explaining it like that fuckin with it right now!!!!

Why dont nobody show installion always removal

Replace the part carefully. Disconnect the negative on the battery and do not give it power until you’ve screwed down the new part. Once finished, plug it in and give a few secs so it can recalibrate itself. Part #604-113

I did an alternator on an 08 & did not need to remove tire & splash shield. It was an all day, pain in the ass event, but it got done. Lol. For what it’s worth.

So…@0:00 through @1:13 (a minute and thirteen seconds) talking about the appearance of the box but @1:50 through @2:05 (fifteen seconds) disregarding and tossing the Jig 🤔

Old mode door was stuck in defrost. Installed a new one, it mode to defrost stopped working. I'm out of ideas.