Watching this 5 years later. Thank you for the great explanation. If you are unable to find the filters, I found a 365nm filter on Aliexpress. They deliver worldwide.

Awesome

Don does it matter which filter goes first, so which one is closest to the flash head

Magical and the music is wonderful.

Awesome video and very helpful for trying to do blacklight photography as using a flash for control over constant is better in my opinion. Also seeing how most black lights are now led and have such a bad output seeing filters being used and what part of a flash to remove is awesome. I’m mainly using 365-385nm as those cause the best fluorescent effect. Would be nice if camera places told us the diameter of their round flashes so we could order the right mod parts all at one time

Would this work for a flashlight? What I'm asking is if removing the low iron Glass lens and putting an optical pass filter meant for cameras in 365 nanometer UV spectrum; could you also put that same optical pass filter in front of a high power LED or halogen flashlight and make it a UV flashlight?

Hello. Do you mean 2 off the same midopt filter, or that there are two types of filter?

I love that stove. What make is it?

Do you think it would be possible with film? And also, how dark would you say the flash comes out to be? I came here not for uv photography, I got interested in it by these video, but my original goal is noble photography, rn heliography, but later down the line also physautotype, daguerrotype and maybe salt printing. I have uv lamp used for gel nails which I use for contact prints rn, but I'd love to do some actual in camera photograph. From uncoated lenses fastest I have is 4 element f3.5, do you think that coating and more elements would greatly reduce the light, up to a point where even tho the lens is faster 1 stop it permits less light, because of the additional layer of glass and coating?

Hey Don! Thank you for this! am I correct in assuming this will work for black light reactive body paint on a person? In the past ive used a powerful black light to capture these photos, but it just does not allow me to use the shutter speeds im after. This seems like it will be a solution, however my environment, although it is fairly dark, has a lot of ambient light. will this flash be bright enough to illuminate a subject that is a several feet away from the flash/camera? these are full body shots. or will I need to double or tripple up the flash? if so, I could see this becoming rather expensive rather quickly

Hello Don - I'm curious to know if modifying a the flash this way diminishes the output of light? Reason is - I'm looking into producing old tintype photography in doors, but the emulsion used for tintypes is only sensitive to UV light. But needs a lot of light because the ISO is like 1. I'm wondering if I modify a flash if this will help in anyway emit enough UV light to produce the a tintype image. Any thoughts? Thanks! Saed

I have important question, will the two filters counter act any harm to a person eye sight? Hoya states, "WARNING: DO NOT use this filter for visual observation. Sunlight and other light sources contain ultraviolet radiation which will damage your eyes!" I hope the second filter (MidOpt BP365) will stop any damage that the person might get if he/ she is exposed to flashes on the subject.

what lens do you use for photo the one from the front cover page?

Could you just use a ultraviolet flash light?

For a possible R1 feature set? As we have seen in the last few years, most of the updates to camera bodies are starting to be more incremental instead of huge leaps. Based on the 1Dx series, I would expect 2 processors. Would they make a new one or stick with the X they have now? But if this R3 is running a single X now and has this kind of speed functionality in both frame rate and focus system, it will be interesting to see what boost a R1 would get with the extra processing power. If they then add a larger buffer and possibly some high speed internal memory to get the files out of the sensor faster than cards can handle at this point. We would be at a point when the bottleneck of the cameras will be the ability of the focus system in the lens, if we are not already there. The current 1Dx III has a sensor that is a better version of the one in the R6. Will they tweak this new R3 sensor for an R1? Even faster readout speed? The pros who are the target market group for a R1 won't need more than 24mp by most accounts. It would likely get a body size bump to equal the 1D series to keep the ergonomic feel close for the current professionals using those bodies, which may help improve the heat control issues for video shooting and add 8k of various rates and quality. I wouldn't be surprised to see a larger capacity battery to combat the energy required to run all these new gadgets. All in, it will be the price of a new car unfortunately though.

Video doesn’t work properly

Thanks for the vid, really insightfull. I've got one question i havent found on the comments: i've read elsewhere that uv light can damage the camera sensor... so, if i were to use this flash off camera, should i put a uv filter in front of my lens? Is it true that i could damage my sensor with the exposure i could get out of this (or any given lightorch from amazon)? I know cameras have a uv filter biuld in, but is it there for the purpose of protecting the sensor, or to avoid any undesired shining spots on its surface?

do you know if this will work this filter ? ebay link . not sure if this will work so i can mod it on the godox ad200 rounnd head www.ebay.com.au/itm/323941639957?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323941639957&targetid=1280498559010&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071820&poi=&campaignid=9767740733&mkgroupid=123973272218&rlsatarget=aud-692203741102:pla-1280498559010&abcId=578876&merchantid=119024801&gclid=Cj0KCQjw24qHBhCnARIsAPbdtlJadE-Xc_Op79GQ2C1ehsBQ_A7XeFFH9AcBuKIxQhtVE9ounEuya64aAnE_EALw_wcB

Do you know where I can buy UV pass filter & tools to cut from 24mm X 36mm on down?

BTW, Midwest Optical Systems now has a BP340 filter which has as little bleed on the violet side of the spectrum as the Hoya U-340 filter and no bleed in the red or near infrared same as the BP365. This could be a single filter option with little bleed in the 380-410 nm (less than 10% at 380nm) and no bleed on the infrared side until 825 nm well outside the visible light range (approx 380-750 nm). I just don't know how easily procurable it is. midopt.com/filters/bp340/

Still in love with this video @Don thank you for shareing it

Thanks for the great info! One question: Will you get the same result using a ZWB2 filter? That filter only allow 365nm to pass through...

Hi everyone

At the risk of costing myself money with my candour yes I would be willing to pay for the podcast.

oh just missed this by a few hours, would have loved to catch a live. Keep em up. Build it and they will come. Your work alone will attract them Don.

Recently discovered your work Don... its absolutely brilliant. Thank you and that book looks awesome too.

1:26:05 What happened to Steve's mic?

Super excited for the book. I’m geeking out, literally!

so great!!

I have both the first book and the poster. Looking forward to receiving the new book!

Hi, thank you for the video! Now, do you use one of those UV filters or do you mount both? I would definitely give it a try but I was curious if you can get good results with only using Hoya for example.

Hello good morning, the reason for my message is to ask you if converting a flash for UVIVF photography can be done with any Flash? or does it have to be a younguo flash? . I have sony alpha cameras (A7III, A7SIII, A7, ...) Thanks a lot. Best regards

I'm struggling to find the hoya filter in the UK. What would I search to find an alternative? UV bandpass filter 77mm?

evening gents. even thou im a tad late =P

Greetings from South Africa I Dig your show Keep it up brother 🤠

Don, your work is fantastic! Subscribed and looking forward to seeing your new videos. :)

Starts @6:55

Ordered this book over a year ago never received it - they were paid in full too!

Avatar <3

Great show. Sorry I couldn't stick around to see it live.

You guys are a bunch of clones😂

The Hub Diaries.

Don, my daughter would like to gift me a copy of your hard bound book “The Universe at Our Feet.” How might she do that, and is there a waiting period? Thank you.

Hi Don , thanks for the tutorial . I' ve always read your articles religiously in OPC magazine . I have two questions for you . I am currently into camera trapping flying squirrel in mid air with a long 30 sec exposure during nightime ( 4 flashes) . I know they glow under UV light and taught this would maje an intersesting shot to have them underside glowing pink . So I was wondering . Would it work at all or would the ambiant ruin all of this .. ? Is there a lot of loss in power with the flashes ( right now they are mostly at 1/64 for this particular set ) ? Could I combine UV flash to expose the flying squirrel and normal flash ( to expose tree trunk and environnement) or would the UV light be ruined again by normal flash ? I use nikon sb28 since I have a lot of them .. Would this modification work on these flash or is the bulb itself has a UV filter? Thank you very much

It's too bad Chris didn't stick around for this show too.. When you got to the last story with the big lens on the cellphone he could have told you how many NOCTs it is!

I'm so glad Steve persuaded you to stream this episode so we can watch the video! MUCH better!

This video version is so much better for me than listening to the podcast whilst riding my bike - but I _do_ need the exercise :)

Hi Don, I've been following your work for a while now, you push the boundaries with macro and produce some wonderful work and always with such verisimilitude. I'm currently trying to work on my lighting and I wonder what experience you've had with trying to diffuse flash lights in macro especially on twin flashes where you want to keep the light near the subject but also want to try and minimize specular highlights. I'm interested in materials and prototyping setups you may have used. I generally do single shot live subject macro and need a fast flash speed for sharp images.

Don, this is awesome :) Keep doing the live!

OK, workshop from my lounge it is then - though coming from NZ was fun.