Thanks you sir!

You are most welcome!

Samson recommends a short fid between marks B and C, but if you want to use a long fid that won't hurt anything. The only downside of using the long fid is that it may make the final bury more difficult and it will make the rope a bit stiffer in the area of the splice.

@@ericforsman7787 thank you. I noticed you took down your tachyon splice video.

@@MrViking10000 Yes, I decided to take it down because the newer method recommended by Teufelberger makes the final bury much easier to do and it makes the lock-stitching much easier as well because there is not as much material crammed into the throat of the splice. The Teufelberger video by Joe Stockton is very good, so I decided to not confuse people with the old method. I got some flack from a few splicers who thought I should not have taken it down, but I think it was for the best.

@@ericforsman7787 I think your methods a lot safer and honestly I spliced tachyon so much I had no trouble after a while. I recommend keeping it up in case I want to go back and double check

@@ericforsman7787 the way you explained it was very helpful. I had no trouble I do a lot of tachyon splices for my own. I do recommend keeping it up for your loyal subscribers.

You're welcome!

Thanks!

I have never spliced Sirius prusik cord, so I can't answer your question. Sorry.

You can use either water-based or oil-based polyurathane.

Tank men, exelent work

You are welcome David.

Thank you sir!

It is magic!

@@ericforsman7787 such a quick sleight of hand that I couldn't even see it happen! I felt the same way when I was taught to splice cable on a landing for a logging outfit. When everyone knew their job it was a very fast procedure.

i believe if you subtract from both the sheath and the core yes you can

With Velocity you can get a 36" eye-to-eye prusik if you do the first eye and then cut the rope off at 50" to do the second eye. If you try to do much shorter than that you will not be able to pull the core out far enough to bury the cover on the second eye. For Tachyon and Blue Moon about the shortest you can do is a 40" saver. It gets hard to bury the cover if you try to do one much shorter than that. For a 40" prusik in Blue Moon or Tachyon I cut the rope off at 56" after the first eye is done. For any given length of friction saver over 40" you should add 16" to the rope when you cut it off.

@@ericforsman7787 Thanks for the response Eric, much appreciated. Going to get splicing now.

De nada amigo. Gracias.

Do you ever visit the Treebuzz website? If so you can go to the "Splice Rack" forum on that website and start a conversation with me. I go by the name of "Arlo" on that website. Also, if you want to get input from a bunch of good splicers that is a good place to post pictures of your splices. One of the threads in the Splice Rack forum is a thread called "Show us your splices" and it is a good place to learn about splicing in general.

@@ericforsman7787 thanks Eric, I’ll check it out. 👍🏻

Are you talking about the splice backing out and showing a little bit or the core after a couple of uses? Let me know

@@MrViking10000 Yes, the lock-stitching keeps the splice from ever working loose.

@@ericforsman7787 I do the lock stitching but in your video of splicing 8mm poly you said to use 9mm measurement for the 10mm. Could this be the problem?

Yes.

Same to you Phil!

I had one sample tested in the basket-hitch configuration. It broke at 11,169 lbs, which is approximately 49 kN.

If we assume that the working load limit (WLL) is about 10% of breaking strength that would be 1,116 lbs or 506 kg.

Thank you Patrick!

Hello Mark. The main difference is that a sewn eye is done with an industrial sewing machine whereas a splice is done by interlocking and overlapping the strands of the rope to form the eye. A sewn eye is a bit more bulky whereas a spliced eye prusik is a bit stiffer because the core is doubled back and buried inside the cover . A spliced eye takes a lot longer to make, whereas a sewn eye takes just a few minutes to make. Both types are very strong. Since most people do not have an industrial sewing machine, a spliced eye is the only alternative unless you want to pay somebody to make it for you.

Thanks Mark.

Good question. The maximum length of friction saver that I have done with this method is 58". For that length I cut a piece of rope that is 124" long, remove the core, and do a normal layout on both ends. The two tails will overlap perfectly, leaving just a few inches to cut off of each tail. I suppose you could do a longer one if you lengthened the measurements on the splice so that there was a longer bury with an appropriate overlap (at least 11") of the tapered cover strands inside the rope, but I have not tried that.

If you use the larger fid you get a deeper bury, which makes the prusik stiffer and harder to use. So I go with the smaller fid. It is plenty strong and I have never seen one pull apart or show any sign of breaking, even when they get old and worn.

Thank you for sharing, it has been a great guide following along with your videos.@@ericforsman7787

Thank you!

That made me laugh. Sometimes people make things more complicated than necessary!

It is a 11.7mm rope, which is 0.460 inches. Since it is so close to 0.50 inches I use a 1/2'" fid for the layout. I suspect that a layout with a 7/16" fid would be just fine but I have not compared the strength of the two.

Yes, cover strands are reduced by 50% count the cover strands to confirm quantity.

Yes, the knot that I use is the palomar knot. I like it because the loop of rope that wraps around the top of the knot is perfect for attaching a micro-pulley. But if you can't figure that one out you can also use a clove hitch.

Thanks👍

Thank you for the kind words!

😊lllpplpllpllp

I don't recall what I used in the video, but most prusiks used for the VT are between 28 and 30" long (71-76 cm). The best length varies for different rope diameters. You will need to experiment a bit to see which length works best for your particular rope. It your prusik is a bit long you can often make it work by adding an extra braid around the rope.

You are welcome!

Based on your comment it is obvious to me that you have never spliced 16-strand rope. The standard way to splice 16-strand rope is to remove the core strands and fill the void by pulling the tapered cover strands back through the core. The strength of this friction saver is approximately 11,000 lbs in the basket hitch configuration. I suggest you check out some of the other instructional videos on how to splice 16-strand rope so you will begin to understand how it is done.

Gotta love it when the stupid rooster crows his ignorance for all to hear. The strength of 16-strand rope is ALL in the cover. The core strands are only to help it retain its shape.

For throwlines I most often use the Zeppelin bend. But for small diameter really slippery stuff like the spectra fishing line on my crossbow reel I use a triple fisherman's bend or a blood knot with lots of wraps.