@xxhansonmaxx Haha it looked like a blast!

Yes. It is a completely stock 366 with 2 57 mm turbos and a nitrous kit.

@@brettstrauss8562 I was considering doing a turbo build on a 366 for better fuel economy in my RV... Based off my experience with a 6.5L Detroit diesel. What kind of boost do you get through the whole RPM range?

@machscga6238 Not sure yet, been working on getting it a little more roadworthy before taking it out. Plus side is you can probably get a 366 pretty cheap.

@@brettstrauss8562 I was thinking that too. Saw one for $500 the other day on FB market place

Yeah its all standard big block stuff except the intake and maybe the timing chain. I can't remember for sure on the chain.

Not yet, hopefully soon. It seems to run well.

A gasket kit and an oil change

That's odd. It is absolutely 6,000 rpms and probably more like 6,200. Under load, I'll see. Still need to do some jet tuning.

A 366 with a 4 inch crank, 6.535 rods and a 3.968 bore 1.64 height piston in a 3.970 bore would make a 396 tall deck. With a 10.5:1 static compression on stock p nut port heads, HEI and a 600cfm 2 barrel blow through EFI? I'm betting close to 500 tq at the wheels around 1700 rpms. On 8.5 psi? 800tq. Need to find someone to make the Pistons. I've already checked to see if a 4 inch crank will spin in a 366. It does. No clearance issues. May have to clearance the bottom of the cylinder walls for the rods but I doubt it.

spend a grand and get MAHLE pistons. The best piston build quality, engineering, and metallurgy on the planet. The MAHLE piston ringlands are reinforced. Get your rings on properly by using a ring application tooL. Measure your bore all the way down and at the top. Gap accordingly. If your bore varies by only O.OO2" your Ring Gap shall be off by up to O.OO8" even If it was dead nuts at the top of the bore. That leads to broke pistons. Also use the 4 gap position method. Also put the pistons in correctly and the rings facing the correct way. Lol. sorry so long, this is for everyone out there. In case for understanding a piston install. Also rebalance your entire rotating assembly. And smooth all the sharp edges on the tops and your spark plug threads with the heads off for more added detonation resistance.

@@zAvAvAzisn't 2 to 5 thousandths the safe zone for piston to wall clearance? Or would a 3.967, 3.966 or 3.965 be better in a 3.970 bore?

@@bladenrexroth2555 depends how straight the bore is.

​@Bladen Rexroth I once threw a 350 together out of a bunch of stuff I had laying around. By the time I honed the block enough to clean it up the piston to wall clearance was like .015. Surprisingly it ran very well and didn't even have any piston slap or burn a drop of oil. Obviously it's not recommended But I've found older Chevy engines to be pretty forgiving with tolerances.

Yeah I'll upload more after getting a few things taken care of on it

That's why they make Kevlar blankets for the firewall. Also the 383 Mopar is a pretty decent engine.

Thanks!

They're factory valve covers I painted. It's a Gen V. Believe it's a 91

@@brettstrauss8562 THANKS