Hi Lance, thanks for writing! I'd be happy to chat without actually committing straight out. temp1 at mtrcycllvr dot org would reach me.

@@mtrcycllvr Awesome! Just to verify that would be your email correct?

@@lancenguyen9291HI Lance! Yes. that would be a disposable email alias that will work to get us linked up, then I'll share my real email with you privately..

@@mtrcycllvr Sounds good. I just sent you an email to that temp address. Look forward to speaking with you more to see if we can make this happen!

Hello! Thanks for writing! You know, I work on Shay's a LOT - they are a popular model, but I'm sorry to relate that this is about the most complete version I have.. You can search my train playlist, kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZ-zaa2ngNyhmpY for the other Shay's I've worked on for more hints.. I've actually GOT a shay in my queue, but it's just for a chuff upgrade. Just by coincidence one went by my bench today with a short in person upgrade for a friend here locally.. It's hard to make a "definitive" reference video as you can get this same model in so many variations - Analog, DCC ready, DCC equipped, and then variations on all of those based on the year of manufacture means nearly every one of these things is unique in some fashion or other.. The one today had a central circuit board that I'd never seen before, "DCC Ready", but NOT the Bachmann LSS connector...

Hello, Wolfen, thanks for writing! That is just generic "braided wire loom", and you can find various diameters from a variety of vendors. Here's and amazon link to get you started. www.amazon.com/Expandable-Braided-Multi-Size-Television-Computer/dp/B09BYC7Q8N/ I used 1/2" on this project, which is TOO BIG, but, well, it's hard to see to begin with so I'm currently not loosing any sleep. I recently talked to the owner of this loco and he asked if we might REWORK the loco side connector location as it's hard for him to reach on his ground level layout. I'm not sure I'll take that on!!! ;-)

Hi, James! I only do this very rarely for my local Rose City Garden Railway Society members. If you want you can email me with specifics at shayhalleffect @ mtrcycllvr.org.. Take the spaces out! No promises, but I'll talk to you! ;-)

Wow, thanks so much, Joe! Appreciate the comment and compliment!

Thanks for commenting, Rob! I have actually updated the schematic recently (and the link in the description)... A short note, this circuit could be "simplified" by installing NOTHING except the Hall Effect sensors. I'm just following data sheet recommendations by installing a .01uf bypass capacitor and the diagnostic LED is just pure convenience.. I updated the schematic link to the newest version AND, in case you're not thrilled at making these yourself, I'm currently working on a batch of 12 boards - write to the email at the end of the video if you want to just purchase a finished version ready to install.. Again, thanks for the comment! Happy Railroading!

@@mtrcycllvr Kool

Hello! Thanks for writing! I'm not really a dealer or reseller, I just like working on trains.. While I have a few decoders around for my personal projects, I don't have any Revolution gear on hand. RLD hobbies is out of stock currently, but I see that you can purchase Revolution decoders at Reindeer Pass Railroad, well, at least the Diesel version is in stock. I'm seeing this more and more "Post Covid" - "stuff", pretty much EVERYONE'S stuff is out of stock.. Phoenix, Airwire, Revolution - just TRY to find some stock someplace!! This is actually delaying a couple of projects I currently have scattered around my house, so I truly feel your pain, too! Good luck to you!

Hi, Thanks for writing! After several years of helping folks with upgrades, I've come to the conclusion that a high quality lion battery with 6000MHa (6 amp hours) of capacity will run your train a VERY long time. Most people I know simply can[t play with their train long enough to run out of charge in a typical day. These would be 4x2 or 5x2 18650 based battery packs available many places. I purchase my chargers from battery space simply because I can choose the right connector from the get go, no adapters to worry about..: www.batteryspace.com/smartcharger30afor185vli-ionpolymerrechargeablebatterypack.aspx for 16 volt or www.batteryspace.com/Smart-Charger-1.8A-for-14.8V-Li-ion/Polymer-Rechargeable-Battery.aspx for 14.8v battery packs. To charge, I simply mount a 5.5x2.1 female barrel jack someplace out of sight but facing UP so you can charge without removing the loco from the track.. Hope this helps! Like and subscribe!! ;-)

Hi Joey! Thanks for writing. I don't have any experience with those, but if the goal is the same, Track Powered sound upgrade, then the "MyLocoSound" card is a good choice and comes with good instructions for how to hook it up.. It looks like the Wonderland Flyer is the "BIg Hauler" version of the Bachmann 4-6-0, which is essentially the same model as this video. You can purchase a chassis direct from Bachmann here: estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_623&products_id=4083 You can source a My Loco Sound card here: www.gscalegraphics.net/store/c13/MyLocoSound.html#/ Good luck to you and thanks for writing!

Awesome Thanks!

Hi Steve! Thanks for writing! I have updated the description with links to a PDF of the schematic and a link to OSHPark, a local PDX circuit board maker where I had the boards I created manufactured. All the parts are dead nuts simple - it's just the sensors and some filter caps and one LED and load resistor. Please don't hesitate to contact me again if you have any problems! And again, thanks for writing!

Thanks so much for writing! Yeah, the gauge vs. scale thing is very odd in garden railroading - Pick a manufacturer and hope the "scale" matches the rest of your collection.. I mostly live in 1:29th scale, myself! ;-)

Hello! The bachmann shays, both the three and two truck version us the LCCS (large scale connection socket) or something like that accronym. In this case, the sound card was a Phoenix SM18 (www.rldhobbies.com/pho.sm18b.aspx) that is a dual decoder and sound card combined. pheonix has been having business issues, though they are still said to be in business, finding stock is quite difficult.. There are other possibilities out there - your loco should have come with a "wired" adaptor board so you can use TCS-WOW and other non-LCCS typoe decoders in this locomotive.. Good luck to you!!

Hi, John! Thanks for writing! Yeah, I can see how you are wondering that, but here's the reality, LIKELY both motors on your model are the same age, and "wear state", but mostly the forces here just aren't that large that they can't be absorbed by a little more current variation between either motor.. Granted, you REALLY want to make sure both motors are actually running! That would be rather catastrophic, but I've never seen such thing happen.. All these models work great.. With these models one does want to look for what generation of trucks you're getting -- the early "All Plastic" trucks seemed to suffer screw boss failures that the new "gen two" all cast metal trucks don't. The model in this video is configured with the first gen trucks, and had several broken bosses, but used "gently" and a bit of CA glue can do a lot to make the first gen trucks keep working. As far as I know it's still running great and will be on the Rose Citry Garden Railway Tour on the 16th of this month. If you're near PDX, try to attend! rosecitygardenrailwaysociety.wildapricot.org/ Getting back to your actual question: Imagine to identical motors gear together, then powered identically - one motor may draw more current, but the forces generally just balance out and the DIFFERENCE isn't enough to create issues with the carefully designed drive train that is indeed tied together through the motor crankshaft.. Again, thanks for your comment! -ET-

The rear truck drives 1:53 the cylinder assembly, the front one Doesn't, the shaft just spins in the smaller drive gears.

Hi John! Hey, I can give you a better answer here now! A friend brought over this very Shay to assist with replacing the Gen 1 trucks with the Gen 2 full metal casting version. In the process of replacing these, I discovered that the rear truck LOOKS like it's connected - the pinon gears spin free on the drive shaft so that in fact the two trucks are NOT CONNECTED. I checked both the old and new trucks and found the same thing. So there's the ACTUAL answer - they simply aren't connected, they just look like it.. Take care! Eric..

Knowing it would likely self-destruct, I never ran the 36 ton Bachman Shay that I bought new. It's been relegated to a short piece of track inside a bookcase. I thought about fitting the OEM trucks with some metal gears. That idea remains in the ether of my mind. . Thanks for the long and short on the mysterious 36 Ton Bachmann Shay truck dilemma... John. @@mtrcycllvr

Hi Ryan! Thanks for writing. My two favorite online stores for this sort of thing are RLD Hobbies and Reindeerpass Railroad. The battery is a standard "4c2p" or four 18650 cells (14.8 volts) in parallel with four other cells.. www.reindeerpass.com/airwire-14-8v-6800-mah-liion-battery.aspx www.rldhobbies.com/hje-4s2p.aspx Hope this helps! The batteries spec out to 6.7AH at 14.8volts and are pretty "standard" for many loco conversions!

John, check out Ring Engineering. The hand held is Railpro's HC-2 and the decoder is RailPro's Module LM-3s-G or their LM-4s-G. I buy my RailPro equipment from RLD Hobbies. If you decide to try installing yourself call Robbie at RLD and he will set you up with everything you need.

Hi Joe! Thanks so much! I've enjoyed making the videos and plan on more soon.. Unfortunately I had a "data disaster" that destroyed all of the video I needed for "version two" of this video about trying to use the RailPro hardwired chuff trigger (and how it just did NOT WORK for me.. Sigh..) But I have fresh locos sitting in my shop and I'm looking forward to getting to work on them as the holiday season progresses!

@@mtrcycllvr Sorry you lost that data but look forward to your new videos!

Hi Vincent! Thanks for writing! I'm currently on break - trying to sell a house (remodelling) and ALSO had a "data disaster" with my video footage.. Sigh.. I live in the Portland, Oregon area and nearly ALL my videos are someone elses loco's. I volunteer doing conversions for members of the Rose City Garden Railway Society.. Anyway, I'm not really set up for "business" right now. I may consider that next year after I get my life settled down a little bit, but for right now I would seek out RLD hobbies or Reindeer Pass Railroads if you need assistance getting a decoder installed.. Sincerely, Eric

@@mtrcycllvr Thanks Eric for your reply. I am closer to RLD and will try them. Good luck with your move, etc.

@@mtrcycllvr do you ever make component recommendations for those of us fairly handy but just getting familiar with all of the radio control products currently on the market for large scale garden railroading?

Hello, Alexis! Thanks for writing! I've only every used a Loksound once in a Swiss Rhaetian Railway Ge II because it had the only good electric sound base, but it worked very well.. I had problems with the loco motion with the Loksound, and we had a Airwire G4, so it's quite a mishmash of electronics, but it all seems to work. The Schematic you shared looks just fine and in effect is identical to the GE II shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2fHk4uNethgpNU I think your plan is sound and should work just fine!

@@mtrcycllvr CVP AIRWIRE, ... Next Blunami (once the 4 amp board will be produced...) Stil thinking about the project. I'll let you know. Many thanks again.

If you have an AirWire handheld throttle then it's a no brainer! The financial savings of using RailPro over CVP's AirWire is that with RailPro's built in sound you don't have the additional cost of a sound decoder.

Hi John! Thanks for writing! I do.. Write to shayhalleffect @ mtrcycllvr.org (remove the spaces..) There's no actual way to connect well via the comments section of youtube! I have three or four left at this point.. Take care!!

Thank you for the video. I hope someone like backstop or bachmann will connect with you to make the Board available for the Shays. I have acquired a three truck and a two truck that could both use them. Wonderfully clever.

What a waste of time watching your video. Teach people how they can build the circuit.

Hi Daniel! Thanks for writing.. Please keep in mind, I'm just an everyday guy dabbling- I'm not a professional anything, BUT, your points are well taken, so I have posted in the description field a PDF of the schematic and links to purchase the circuit boards directly.. This is a SUPER easy circuit and everyone is welcome to create their own if they wish.. Hopefully this alleviates some of your frustration at my admittedly quite amateur video.. Again, thanks for the comment!

Thank you very much sir!

Hi, John! I seem to have missed this. Yes, I think I have two left - $50 per and whatever postage is.. Sorry I missed this!

Hello, D5oper! Thanks for writing! The part I picked is a DRV5033 by texas instruments. You can find them at most reputable elecontrics parts suppliers, here are a few links - I like digikey becuase I can use US mail deliver for relatively cheap delivery.. www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/DRV5033AJQLPGM/5181321 www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/DRV5033AJQLPG Look for an upcoming print article in www.grnews.org/ about using Hall Effect sensors..

Hi DTJ, thanks for writing! Good luck with your project! With the demise of Phoenix and everyone else being "out of stock", I wish you the best! My recent experience says go with Revolution and hard wired chuff trigger for the ultimate in chuff accuracy.. That would save you lots of space, as you only need the combo decoder/sound card vs. my "dual approach" with this project..

@@mtrcycllvr ❤Thanks for the added info. I've been online searching for the best options and some clear how to installation guides. I have plenty of experience with DCC+sound but battery RC with sound in the garden is a whole new world. Pretty excited about switching loads around from my back deck! Thanks again! DTJ

​@@dtj9923 I crafted this model in "single chuff" mode, and now that I've re-watched it, I think I would do full double chuff if I were to do over. Part of the issue is reed switches and magnets at 90 degrees on a SMALL WHEEL, which can lead to missed chuff at higher speeds.. If you look at this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4WalYmdqbp7m9U to get an idea about using Hall Effect Sensors in place of reed switches. I wrote an article to be published in our next news letter, (which is stupidly locked up from non-members!) then I think LATER it will show up in www.grnews.org/ detailing how to apply a cheap hell effect sensor in your model. The revolution gear isn't DCC, but I was pleasantly surprised that chuff is simple and accurate - I can't say the same for Railpro or Wowsound - that's "managed" autochuff and I just don't care for it.. Again, good luck!

Yeah - running a giant Diesel prime mover in your shay!! ;-) I have recently become disillusioned with RailPro's steam sound story.. I used "auto-chuff" on this model and it is close enough to be fine for some modelers. I like perfect chuff, however. And this IS DOABLE. I've done it lots of times with Revolution and Airwire/Phoenix. However, when I recently attempted to get hardwired chuff to work with RailPro's new firmware that supports that, I was highly disappointed with accuracy. They do some interesting things with sound shaping around acceleration and deceleration, but getting the chuff to chuff EXACTLY was a problem for me with two different locomotives. I ended up re-setting them for auto-chuff..

Hi Gamepad31! Thanks for writing! Yes, any of a number of modern train decoders, both G and HO would work to retrofit just about any model with a motor in it!! Good thinking!

@@mtrcycllvr Not only that, but I've thought about running my converted New Bright and or Bachmann Night before Christmas Train (yeah got one myself) would it be possible to wire up 6 battery blocks in the tender? if I were to run them all night say 6 hours.

@@gamepad3173 , it's generally not recommended to parallel stack Lithium Ion battery packs. This has to do with the embedded BMS boards in the packs themselves - you have to just purchase a "big pack" to begin with. I've used these in trailing battery cars and will run an average train a VERY long time - likely well over your 6 hours with a single motor locomotive.. www.rldhobbies.com/hje-5s2p-1.aspx Good luck!

Wow, thanks, TTH! That comment made my day.. I've been struggling with another volunteer effort to convert FOUR Aristo DASH9's to revolution/battery control.. It's been somthing of a slog.. No video this time!! 😁

Hi Doug! Thanks for writing! Hey, the Bachmann truck pickups are EXTREMELY EASY to remove - you just pop the cover off the truck, then unscrew a couple of little ball bearing rollers and remove them - I think I just cut and taped the wires that run from these rollers right at the pickups.. Trust me - it's much easier than it sounds and is completely reversible if you ever want to move back to track power.. I'm certain I was done in under five minutes - it's really THAT EASY.. Good luck!!

Hi Bob! Thanks for writing! The fans I install fall into two categories, 5volt or 12 volt - to attach them, I purchase either a 5v or 12v "780X" style 3 pin regulator.. I happen to favor the new "switching style", which are more efficient and conserve battery: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-inc/V7812-500/1828605 As far as fans go, there is a large range of 5v and 12v fans in the 1" sort of range here as well: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-brushless-fans-bldc/217?s=N4IgjCBcoCwGxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIMADHABwCcdIhVcdYCz1dAzAgLqEADgBcoIAMrCATgEsAdgHMQAX2WEATGXDqAbgAIAJkj0Y5IPsqA Again, this should be EASY - battery to pins 1 and 2, fan to pins 2 and 3, 3 being the red wire or positive.. Pin 2 is common ground.. Pin 1 is raw battery up to 32volts.. Place it AFTER the power switch so that when to turn on, the fan is on full time.. SOMETIMES, depending on the decoder, I will run a small 5volt fan off of the 5volts provided - a railpro decoder has 5 volts available, for instance.. Hope this helps!! Happy training! ;-)

More fans: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-brushless-fans-bldc/217?s=N4IgjCBcpgLFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYBOAVgA4A2EAugdkbuZCvJtYgC6BAA4AXKCADKogE4BLAHYBzEAF8CsJtBDJI6bPiKkQsAAwM6VKlzMMqYJhvNUAzI5A1TsMOU4arDOQuXJ6wNFTwBHw0NC40XC5UrBF%2BIInJ1DbmjJEm2RZZFqzBTnawqba0poW0EKW08EIgYhLS8spqqqpAA

Hi Bob! Thanks for writing.. KZbin doesn't do much to let us connect OUTSIDE of youtube.. I do have the file - you can try viewing the SOURCE here: www.tinkercad.com/things/kIhWwWgZlzO-switch-and-charge-jack-plate You MIGHT have to be a tinker cad user to view it? I'm not 100% sure how that works.. Run this through a slicer and add a color change at the lettering layer and it will come out very nicely!

Hi Benjamin! I used a standard "1x4" 18650 pack that is ROUGHLY 1.5 by 1.5 inches.. That just barely squeezed in! That would be a 14.8v and approxamately 2600 mAh, a readily available sort of "standard" battery for G-Scale locos.. Thanks for writing!

Thanks for writing, Steve! I used a "standard" 4s1p "pack", that means four cells in a row, and one in parallel.. That makes 4x the voltage and face value Amp Hours. You can find this exact pack here: www.rldhobbies.com/air-bat3d.aspx I never did a FULL on run time test - this model should be good for 2.5 - 3 hours at moderate volume and speed.. The motor rarely draws more than an amp, and the Rail Pro "stall test" only drew 1.9 amps.. Oh, I think a stick vs. brick in the boiler SHOULD work.. But it wouldn't be any BIGGER, and I seem to recall running that sort of "how hard vs. how much could I fit" calculation when I did this model a year ago now, and after finding the standard 2x2 brick fit so well, I just put taking the loco further apart on hold while trying to fit it all in the coal box. Cooling fans WILL save you grief in the long run!! Good luck to you!

Thanks for writing, Yesh! Actually, most Bachmanns now feature a thing called a "Large Scale Socket" that is CLOSE to a standard - there are several manufacturers that make a direct plug in decoder for LSS equipped trains. Phoenix, Digitraxx and I believe some Euro-folks like Locsound all make a direct plug in modules... This freind already had Railpro in the works, so I used the LSS adaptor board to make the connections.. I have used both the Phoenix and Digitrax LSS decoders for other bachmann engines in the past.. The real problem is space for batteries, of course!! ;-) Take care!

@@mtrcycllvr thanks for the info, much appreciated. Cheers

Hi Darryl! THanks for writing! I'm lucky to have a surplus shop nearby that I purchase short lengths of "ribbon cable", which is a bunch of 26/28 gauge molded together.. They peel apart nicely! I ALSO made a number of "connections".. To do those, I use "pre-crimped" JST-SH wire from a place called Polulo Robotics? I buy kits of the JST-SH connectors from Amazon.. JST (Japan Solderless Terminal Company) makes MANY ends, so don't just look for "JST", be sure to use the JST-SH term! They are "board to wire" only, so the wire to wire ends are hand made with solder and hot melt glue.. I also purchase, on occasion, "kits" of silicon jacketed wire of various gauges from hobby king - this wire is supper flexible and I use it for main power distribution within the models I do.. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X7BS182 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NWD5NTN www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731MZCGF hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=silicon Take care and good luck with your models!

Hi J! Yeah, my videos are admitedly not the best.. Turns out that taking the time to do a "good" video is more diffucult than one could imagine! ;-) The wiring in this particular locomotive simply follows the RailPro manual - I installed lots of "break for service" connectors so I could locate the decoder in the basement, so to speak.. The physical wiring is really just the motors and the LED's doing the lighting. I TOTALLY ABANDONED all stock wire and switch/switchboards. I left the original switch board in place under the cover, but it's just filling the hole is all. I think I used a little 60mmx40mm proto board to build up power distribution.. Just break the various circuits down one at a time and it'll be fine. Thanks for the feedback and in future videos, I'll try and add more electrical detail!

You know, I had to think about this for a bit.. You could be very right, but the HORN is pointing forwards on the short end, so that's where I put the ditch lights.. It may wall be totally backwards, but the horn was the detail I followed in this case! Thanks so much for the tip! I'll pay way more attention in the future! ;-)

@@mtrcycllvr Just reply your Engineer prefers the field of vision when running short hood forward(problem solved).

Hi Brian! Thanks for writing! I get my fans from Digikey: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-brushless-fans-bldc/217?s=N4IgjCBcpgLFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYBOAVgA4A2EAugdkbpAF0CAHAFyggAyvwBOASwB2AcxABfArCbQQySOmz4ipELAAMDOrFbM9huvTMGjR6xYbwlF1hGdHW%2B%2Bx4DM3ulRU3lRgTO5UPkw8IAJCopKyCooUugAmiAAE6FJY3PJAA I "THINK" that URL will have search criteria embedded... I just selected all fans under 30mm that would run on 5 or 12 volts. There are LOTS of choices.. I use modern switching equivalents to 7805 or 7812 linear regulators - they are a few dollars more than a straight silicon linear regulator, but they dissipate almost NO heat.. www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-dc-converters/922?s=N4IgTCBcDaIOwA4AMBWEBdAvkA Hope this helps! Again, thanks for writing!

Hi Ricky! Thanks for writing! I used "tinker cad" to create the vents for this project.. www.tinkercad.com/things/atN5HjQDeof-vent-grill-50mm-x-15mm (am I allowed to place URL's here?) In tinker cad, find the thing, select EXPORT and file type. Vents like this are SUPER EASY to create on tinkercad - create a solid slab. create a smaller void slab, tilt it, position, then copy, paste, position, repeat and then group it al.. I don't even save them most of the time they are so easy to craft from scratch.. Good luck!!