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Well at least I know how you feel. Belts versus chains, yes chains are stronger but they need lube and on a Norton the lube leaks. I ran a Norvil belt drive for 10 years before doing this conversion without problem. Since doing the conversion 10 years ago I'm on my third belt so send me the dozen belts and that should last awhile. This Norton is definitely not slow and my estart does not use the problematic "sprag" clutch. So there.

This conversion will be available commercially soon and will be manufactured by an established well known and respected supplier of all things Norton. It uses an aftermarket Harley high torque starter on a custom made ring gear that is attached to the belt drive clutch basket. The tension idler does just that plus adds more contact of the belt to the drive sprocket which is important during startup. No "sprag" clutch is required. A modified cradle and inner primary make room for the starter and bendix drive/cover. Hope that helps.

I will try and accommodate you when I get the 73 Honda CL350 off my lift.

I believe the elimination of the sprag clutch is the main improvement of this design over the others. It is however not a bolt on as it requires a modified cradle. Thank you for your positive comments.

@@billybobcox4195 You are welcome for the comments, and as for the belt verses chain debate I would go for the belt. I used to have British bikes ( I am English) and primarys always leak - these days I run Harleys and find belt drives are so much less maintenance. Okay so they may soak up a little power but hey, it's a price worth paying. The trick is to fit a good quality belt PROPERLY and get the adjustment right so it doesn't run over-tight when the engine/clutch is warm as the pulleys do expand. I am forever getting told by 'experts' (- who don't even have a bike ) that my belts are loose but they tighten up just right when the bike is running - as both my Harleys have over a hundred bhp and torque and weigh more than a Norton I think they would be harder on belts and both of them have over 50 thousand trouble-free miles on them !

The LED lighting kit which included the "Flasherino" solid state 6 volt flasher came from the Pardue Brothers. Try them with an email to [email protected]. The headlight AC voltage regulator came from Rex's Speed Shop in the UK. Try rexs-speedshop.com. The Mikuni Carb/Header kit came from xlintperformance.com. The DC voltage regulator (to charge the battery and provide DC to horns, turn signals, tail light, stop light and ignition was purchased on ebay from an Asian supplier (unbranded). They generally run for about $20 or so. Sorry for the long delay in responding but I hope this helps.

@@billybobcox4195 thank you!

@@billybobcox4195 thank you for your video! I’m going through a restore/rebuild right now and broke the original Keihin carb. Can you tell me which Mikuni carb you got? Also, I’m really impressed at how clean and neat your build is. Nice work!

@@runnhunt Thanks for the compliment. The Mikuni is part of a kit including the correct jetting, throttle assembly and the header with megaphone (wouldn't call it a muffler). The source is Dave Rhynehart at xlintperformance.com.

My own. It may go into production by Norvil Motorcycles (delayed due to Covid). I've also installed the CNW kit for a customer with good results. Steve Adkins at Preservation Cycles in Carrollton, Texas has had good luck with the Alton. Give him a call. I believe it's his preference.

This was a "one off" conversion not a kit. It will be available commercially sometime soon through a well known and respected supplier. Stay tuned.

The bike originally came with a steel roadster tank which had a big dent on one side. I liked the hot rod look of the "peanut" hi rider tank which was derived from a series of 60's Norton-engined desert racers - The P11, Ranger and N15CS. I later had the steel roadster tank repaired and used it on a custom 1974 850 Commando.