@@craigpitt6342 it was a normal thread. Left to loose.

It is! Took to the Dragon this year. It runs fantastically.

58440026000 part#

Thank you very much!!

the bearing is from ktm. the gear and the base that screws to the steering wheel are the originals;

Correct! :)

thanks.!! now i will make it for much less money 💪👍

Thank you!

Awesome! The worst part is breaking the flywheel nut. I cannot stress enough the importance of a lot of heat. I bought a cheap heat gun and left it on for something like 20-30 minutes. The bolt was super hot and it then came loose.

Yes I do!

Yes! My two were first to go in and then every other plate as per normal installation.

Hi there! I used KTM#58440026000. Orientation matters. Make sure you install so the locking mechanism works correctly (as shown in the video). Thanks, and I would love to come visit NZ someday. What a beautiful country!

Thanks so much just one more question if you don’t mind how did you align the crank looking tool im paranoid about turning the engine over whilst it’s apart… thanks again

@@Nissankingcabute no problem. I took out the spark plugs and placed a screwdriver in the cylinder. Rotated the engine using the back wheel to the top of the stroke. The divot into which the locking tool fits was fairly simple to find. You could also remove the valve cover and get the timing marks aligned with the cams. My way was fairly straightforward. If it didn’t slot in I backed the tool off a bit rotated the wheel slightly and then tried again. I think it took me two minutes, including trying to sling the wheel with the tool engaged. It WILL NOT turn if you have the tool properly seated.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 thanks 🙏

I don’t recall removing the crank sensor for this project.

Hi Pilin. I wish I had time to work on other's bikes. It is quite relaxing. That said, simply take your time. The super bikes were designed to come a part with fair ease. It was nerve wrecking the first time I did my own too. After you have buttoned everything back up, and. before you put the spark plugs back in, rotate the rear tire in gear ( 4-6th gear) to see if you feel any binding. You'll IMMEDIATELY know if you have a bind. If you have no binding, and you have rotated the rear wheel backwards for several revolutions, you should be okay. But really, taking your time is the best thing you can do. Take pictures when you do. If you get stuck, then there are some great folks on Ducati.MS who can help. I will help answer questions as best as I am able. My next video will be the valve clearance check/adjustment on my Aprila Falco. It's a bit over due.

58440026000 is the part number. Please double check that the sprags are the same between the year you own and the 99-02 Mille. The second generation RSV uses a completely different part.

Hi there, Austin. I locked the crankshaft by using Aprilia's special tool I referenced int he video. There's a notch it locks into to keep the crankshaft from turning while you apply torque to the flywheel nut. From what I understand, finding TDC will be important for valve clearance checks as this will have the piston at the top (in case a valve falls while you work on it-shouldn't fall all the way in), and there is no compression on the valves for checking. There are timing marks on the cam shaft wheels. I need to check my clearance this winter, and will be doing a video on it.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 sounds like I've gotta either pull the cam cover then, or get an inspection camera down the spark plug hole?

@@MrAustinkocher if you want to find Top Dead center, you will need to pull the cam cover off and line up the timing marks on the cam wheels. I am curious to know how you’re planning on locking the crank shaft down. That’s going to be very important because as you apply torque to the crank shaft bolt, you will turn the crank shaft. And that will mean that you’re not able to fully apply torque to the bolt.

@@MrAustinkocher one more way to find top dead center is to pull a spark plug, and stick a screwdriver into the cylinder. Turn the crank until the screwdriver reaches the top of the stroke.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 I purchased the tdc lock like you have in the video.

Ha! I hardly hear it as I tune it out these days. Just used to it I guess. Come to think of it, the clock is pretty loud.

Good luck on your 748. Rockers are definitely not an end-of-the-world problem, though they are a bit pricey. Also, depending on who did the prior maintenance, make sure the plates that retain the rocker pins are not getting chewed up. These plates are at the top of the head and must be removed before accessing and pulling the pins. I was getting flakes, but it was those as the pin was rubbing on the plate just ever so slightly. Pins should be tapped back in until flush.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 Thanks for the heads-up about the plates. I'll have a look at a fiche to see what that is. Or rewatch your video 😁

@@TheOriginalCoda Not a problem! You'll see the plates that are held by 5mm bolts. You must remove them in order to get to the pins to pull the pins back so you can remove the cams. They are on the heads, between the cams.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 Right, I thought those were what you meant. I cannot imagine though how those could cause flakes in the oil. I guess once I take mine apart it might become obvious.

Hi Angel atv, The parts are compatible with the 1st generation Rotax motor that Aprilia used from 1998-2002 (approximately). That would be the RSV Mille, Tuono, Falco, and Futura models, all of which used the 998cc engine in varying states of tune. I am not sure on other manufacturers using the same part, however, you might try searching owner’s forums asking them same question. They would more than likely be able to tell you what part numbers you need for a full and complete job.

Having a service center is definitely handy! And the valve clearance job is a lot of work, but it isn’t overly bad. Next up my Aprilia Falco needs a clearance check, and I will record that. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!

beggars can't be choosers. LOL, joke. Use a headphone, it helps! Watch out for commercials because those will be SUPER loud.

Ha! Thank you! They’ll get changed next time.

I sure do! Just clicked over 80k miles. It’s time for a valve clearance check on it (and an oil change…)

It’s surprising to me just how well that bike is built. As long as it is run somewhat frequently, it just continues to work, and work well. I do wonder about the fuel pump. I may change that out for peace of mind given it’s 22 years old and probably long past its use-by date.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 My YZF is down with what I believe is a stuck float...I'll know more when the bike goes in for service. I still haven't cracked 10,000 kms with mine, (-and I bought it with 5000kms on the clock!).

Yes, it’s important. The gear will not sit flush (if I remember correctly). On the video, you can see the orientation.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 I'm meaning the Pin/Axle itself where you put the gear onto, not the gear itself (there i put the "flange" backwards facing).

@@andrean_7725 Honestly, I’m not sure as I didn’t pull out the shaft upon which the gear rides. If there are no mating slots on the internal-to-the-engine side, then I would not think it matters. The gear simply spins on that shaft. The cover should have no issue going on.

If it has the V990 engine, it will.

For the battery bracket, I had a small spacer between the frame and the battery box. It had always been there (installed by the PO), and I left it alone. Once I removed that little spacer, I found the battery *just* fits. I suspect the spacer was placed there due to the non-factory length bolt that was installed.

Thanks! Definitely make a video or two!

Thank you! I appreciate it!

Awesome! Glad to have another Duc rider here in the Ozarks. Great riding roads here!

Hi Herson. I got my shins from EMS Duc. LT Snyder purchased the EMS company. He’s an awesome resource. Check out his site at: desmotimes.com/product-category/products/shim-kits-half-rings/

I would be careful using just any shim off Amazon. The early Superbikes have different sizes than later bikes (like Panigales). You’ll want the right size for your year model.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 Okay, i appreciate that, your videos are great 🏍❤👍. Pura Vida

@@costar155 Used the valve collets from EMS on the last two Ducati's I did valve check on, both the 2 valve 620 , and 4 valve high compression 853 with no issues, my 853 would go 165-170 mph with a slight tail wind. I want to upgrade to their special collet kit that is suppose to keep the valve train rock stable above 10k rpm

A Desmoquattro should have valve clearances checked at 9600 km or so. Approximately 6000 miles.

I have a 1999 996S with 53000 miles on it. Had 1 bad rocker at about 30000 miles.

Should be 55.32mm (2.178 inches)

And thank you for the kind words!

You’ll only want to consider this repair if your Falco, Tuono, or Mille one way (“sprag”) clutch begins to fail. If it fails, you’ll hear it. The noise will sound metallic, which is the sound of the starter motor spinning and the clutch not biting on to the flywheel. Mine did this twice, before I put the bike away to learn what I needed to complete the repair. You shouldn’t do the repair if yours is starting fine with no abnormal noises. Thanks for watching and thank you for the question!

@@motorcyclemicah6309 Ciao intanto ti voglio ringraziare per avermi risposto. Allora sulla mia "falco 1000 V60" e da poco iniziato il così noto problema alla ruota libera i problemi riscontrati sono: 1- rallentamento dell'accensione della moto come se la batteria fosse scarica ma non lo è mi dà circa 12,5 12,7 ma va sotto sforzo comunque all'accensione. 2- qualche volta va in fallo il motorino prima con un crackk e poi si blocca e qualche volta gira a vuoto grrrr grrrr quindi metto la 2° marcia e lo sposto un po' avanti e indietro e riesco a farlo funzionare... il più evidente e quello dell'accensione debole. Quindi ho deciso visto che ho un po' di manualità di meccanica di farlo io stesso sono molto sicuro che riesco a farlo senza alcun problema so già che devo scaldare il volano prima dell'estrazione per scomporre la loctite e mettere il blocco albero dal carter opposto m8, non ero sicuro della lunghezza dell'estrattore m22 x 1,5 perché devo ordinarlo su internet e quindi volevo mettermi al sicuro prima di ordinare per non sbagliare. Non mi resta che ordinare l'estrattore m22 x 1,5 e procedere con l'estrazione del volano, una volta aperto valuterò lo stato di usura del cuscinetto, della flangia, e della ruota dentata e da lì deciderò se sostituire solo alcuni pezzi oppure l'intera ruota libera

@@motorcyclemicah6309 Grazie mille per la tua gentile risposta e ti faccio i miei complimenti per la tua conoscenza e manualità molto professionale. 💯👍👍👍

Thank you, Peter! These Ducati Superbikes are wonderful machines. And hopefully, this helps give owners without a dealer or dedicated Ducati mechanic an opportunity to do the work themselves. It’s not a difficult task to do, just take your time. Thanks for taking the time to watch the video. Obviously, I’m not a pro KZbinr, but I appreciate people spending their time and getting something useful from it.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 yes I love my 748.... its a summer toy .... the look..the noise..the torque..... its an icon.

#58440026000 is the part number. Just be aware that the orientation matters when you put it in. It works great! I would caution about no-name Ebay parts. Make sure you get the actual KTM part. Quality is important here.

Thank you, ducrider13 fab. Some folks want the Ducati experience, but are concerned about the mystique around valves and belts, etc. In fact, I bought the bike without checking first - but no dealer locally would work on the bike given they did not have the "special tools" needed. And the closest dealer is a 3 hour drive for me. So I was left with my dream bike, and needed to learn how to maintain it myself. I have done lots of reading of the service manual as well as asking other owners who work on their Ducatis questions to better ground myself. There is such good help out there, and I wanted to create a comprehensive guide as best I could to help someone like me. Thanks for taking a look at the video!

Thank you! Honestly wasn't very difficult. Having time to work on it is helpful! I couldn't find anything "out there" in video form that would allow me to watch over someone's shoulder. Hopefully - this helps folks enjoy their Get 1 Aprilias more. They're fantastic motorcycles.

Thanks! This was a fun ride. Really enjoyed it.

Thank you! I hope that it helps someone who may not have a dealer nearby that will work on them. That’s what happened to me.

You're welcome! It seemed very daunting when I was researching how to change it. I couldn't find any other videos, so I decided to help others out and make a video myself. I'm obviously not a professional KZbinr. Ha! But hopefully, I can shed some light on the process so someone in the same predicament can fix their own, given the small Aprilia dealer network. The early Aprilias are such good bikes.

I simply added an additional drive plate at the back of the clutch pack. Very simple process.

@@motorcyclemicah6309 so i have already 2 steelplates back of the clutch pack, 1 extra steelplate will do?

@@zeppo08 try it. But in testing, make sure the clutch operates correctly. It should engage and disengage fully. There should be no drag when engaged with the clutch pulled. The clutch should be able to take full power in sixth gear without slipping.

@@zeppo08 if any of the above occurs, that indicates the clutch is worn out And due for replacement.

They did not give me the runaround. I sent them pictures and the video link here. They requested a video of me destroying the original fender, and then they sent another one. I really need to make an update video. The new one fits, but you can tell it's not specific to the 620 Monster as there is a speedometer hole pre-drilled. There are two issues with the new one: 1. The back clearance JUST barely clears the tire - but it does clear and does not rub. 2. The front of the fender is offset. Meaning that it "points" just off center. The more I crank down on the mounting bolts, the straighter it becomes; however, I'm not willing to crank down hard on the Ducati plastic fender brackets any harder than I have (they looked pretty torqued) for fear of stripping them out. It is fairly visible when looking at the bike square from the front or if I look over the instrument cluster. You can't tell from the side. I suspect I will buy a different one from another company to rectify. Thanks for the question - it's a reminder I need to make an update video.

I wouldn't worry about it until the part actually fails. You'll hear the starter spinning without engaging the motor, which is when you'll know one of the starter clutch ("sprag") components has failed. Keep a strong battery, and keep the battery on a battery charger to keep it maintained. A strong battery, per my understanding, is the best way to keep a starter sprag in good health. 6k miles is not a lot of miles though. Mine went 22k miles or so before needing to be replaced.

You'll want the flywheel. Check these posts: www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?319011-Sprag-Clutch&highlight=sprag+replace www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?155882-How-to-replace-your-sprag-clutch

www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?155882-How-to-replace-your-sprag-clutch The above post includes part numbers. You may have order from a US dealer.

#58440026000. Just be aware that the orientation matters when you put it in. It works great!

Brilliant thanks alot!👍👍

Managed to order thr sprag clutch from ktm now but i cant seem to find an alternative to the aprillia sprag housing. Ive been quoted £190 from aprillia. Also the flywheel itself. Thanks in advance👍

Matty Reid I’m not sure on the housing or flywheel gear. I went with Aprilia parts there. You might keep your eye on eBay in addition to AF1 or Aprilia Performance.

I got mine from AF1 Racing. www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=49&description=Falco+Maintenance%2C+Tools%2C+and+Chemicals