Coming in the spring/summer of '25....... hopefully, maybe? Haha Seriously though I need to get it done. I just can't do it outside in sub zero temps.

It's not done yet. I just welded the holes up for the time being. The Ex doesn't fit through my shop door and it's winter time (MN). So it's on hold until spring.

Haha, yeah it's a tough pill to swallow.

I used mounts I found on Amazon. They were just universal LS swap mounts. The polyurethane parts was junk though, they were crumbling after a couple months. That being said though, universal LS mounts work for the pre '03 Panther chassis. '03 and newer have an aluminum crossmember and need different mounts

Lol

He’s saying the metal that ripped off and that is still attached to the swaybar is the cradle

@@nickycritic5269 right, I was just showing how rotted out the k-member was. The anti sway bar just happened to be connected there. It was actually cut off on one side and hanging with a zip tie on the other.

You pointed out his point. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 the sway bar IS his K-member.

@@jessebybee3521 I just did my Excursion exhaust too. Lol

@@joejohnson8983 lol, yeah.....see no evil right?

Thanks!!

Absolutely, I feel like it took us more tries than it should but we were pumped all the same. Laura likes to call the Judges Choice trophy "Judge Shelly". Lol

Lol, thanks brother!

Wow, thanks man I really appreciate the review. There's definitely some issues that appear with age on these things. I haven't had time to get back to this project (children, house, race car, etc) yet but hopefully soon.

I couldn't begin to offer an estimate here. I did all the work myself so it was just my time. If you could find a shop to do it I would guess it would not be cheap. Maybe a couple grand at least.

I moved my seats further back tho

@@jordandevelle4564 I really need to get back to that project, I never did finish it. I am just finishing up headers and full exhaust on my v-10.

That's insane! Glad this was able to help you out.

@@BoNewberry I should be able to get back to it before summer ends. It's race season so a lot of focus gets put there. :)

So this is another unique one with this car. The drivetrain and some parts came out of a Crown Victoria I LS swapped. The radiator was one of those parts. It's an aftermarket aluminum radiator. The width worked for the Fbody but it was too tall. So I leaned it back like the stock ones are.

Actually I did not paint them. During that build phase it was a bit of a rush just trying to get it ready for its first race. No big deal though, they were cleaned up at least and will eventually get painted. I'm hoping to have some good footage of the car after our next race in July.

I got mine from a guy on Facebook in the Fbody Autocross/Track group. His name is Michael Gissi ( facebook.com/share/gCSuP9PK6H3tTW6F/?mibextid=qi2Omg ).I don't know if he still makes them but he said he has a few sets leftover still. The other option is the Detroit Speed ones. Those retain the wheel speed sensors but I believe they use a much more expensive hub.

Howdy, I am the maker of these and the adapters are $430 shipped with hardware (hubs not included). The benefit of the C7 version is that the hubs themselves are about $100 per side vs. $450 for C5 version and allegedly use the same bearing. I have about 30 track days on mine and have yet to find any slop. The only downside is losing ABS, but "ice mode" will kill you anyway so it's in your best interest to disable it and learn how to threshold brake.

I would be glad to purchase them from you. How do I contact you to purchase them?

If I remember correctly (I could be wrong here) the Detroit Speed kit uses a C5 Vette hub. The adapter I use can use the C7 Vette hub which is a bit more robust and a lot less expensive than the C5 hub. The x tracker hub is made by SKF in either case (Detroit Speed website even specifies an SKF hub). As far as the speed sensor wiring, I couldn't say there. Like you said, I ditched it all together and am running manual brakes with dual master cylinders. So mine is completely different from stock. There's several other KZbin videos out there that cover it though I think. Detroit Speed even has a video on their kit if you haven't watched that one yet.

For C7s, all of the OE hubs are technically X-trackers and are made by SKF. You can order the X-tracker branded SKF BR931002 C7 hub, pay $1 more on Rock Auto for it and it will be the same part as the AC Delco FW412 in a different box. The X or non X-tracker distinction only really applies for C5s and C6s. Like mentioned before, these are non ABS adapters since the C7 uses a different kind of ABS sensor that isn't compatible with our stuff. 4th gen ABS sucks anyway and ice mode is real and will kill you, so it's in your best interest to ditch it anyway.

@@JunkRacecars Thanks for replying, I like how you call it ice mode... Cracked me up. I would gladly get rid of the abs and save a little weight but the 97 Z28 (That's getting a 383 LT4 engine swap) is in near mint condition and I'm trying my best to keep it more street then race. That's why I went with the pricey Detroit Speed X-Tracker Hubs. Man they are a thing of beauty to look at by the way. I'm also doing caddy brakes but it's the CTS-V calipers with Baer Eradispeed 2 piece C6 Z06 brake rotors. At first I only wanted the X-Tracker Hubs to fight Caliper Piston Knock Back not even knowing that the stock hubs are fragile. Anyway nice to know I'm killing 2 weaknesses with 1 stone with the X-Tracker Hubs.

@@JunkRacecars They have a install video but it's for a C4 Corvette (LT1) and the ABS is a plug and play connection. But for the F-Body, you have to disconnect the pins out of the factory ABS Pigtail and stick them into the connector that Detroit Speed includes in there kit. I did see other videos on how to re-pin wiring connectors for other cars and it doesn't look hard.

I just happen to be a regular at it. Lol

Thank you, I appreciate that!

Despite our breakdowns, it was such a fun race. Looking forward to it again in '24.

I welded all holes shut and ground them flat. I'm going to JB weld them also to fill any pin holes.

That info is mentioned in the video, but those are a 12mm offset.

That is correct, it is the outer layer of sheet metal. So you have a single layer "skin" that is supported by those internal cross braces. So you will be able to access the dents from inside. I will likely respray my roof with a tintable Raptor liner. This will help hide any body work imperfections. Plus it's a roof in an Excursion. So unless you are 7ft tall you won't see it. 😂

@@bleepingfastmotorsports that's great info, thanks! I've reached out to a few body shops and paintless dent repair guys, and none of them will touch my excursion because it's over 20 years old and roof paint isn't perfect. I'm like, I know.... I need to fix the dent so I can fix the paint lol I've also been considering putting a layer of line-x or similar on top. These X roofs are notoriously bad, so it would be good to have some extra protection after all the work I'll be putting in. I'll be following you along your journey. It took me hours of searching for information on how to do the work you're doing and came up empty handed. Your timing on getting these videos out was perfect. Appreciate you taking the time to get this project online!

@@UpsetOctopus I appreciate the comments. Once it stops raining here I can get back to the roof and finish it up. I'm going to have to pull the windshield out though. The top of the windshield seal is leaking horribly.

@@bleepingfastmotorsports I'll keep an eye out for the next video. I fortunately haven't had any leaks yet, but there is quite a bit of cracking on the roof now and rust is starting to form. I think i'm going to need sand down all that rust just like you're doing. Are you planning to paint yourself after removing all the rust?

Yes, I finally bought a decent compressor and a cheap ($20) spray gun from Harbor Freight. I'll do an epoxy primer first and then do Raptor liner on top of that.

I know it's not uncommon for these to have leaks in various areas, but I couldn't say whether it's a design issue or an age issue. Most leaks appear (to me at least) age related since they seem to be at seals, windshields and seams. If you had a windshield replaced due to the old one leaking there is the possibility that there was a rust hole that was covered back up (but not necessarily sealed) by the urethane sealant during install. Not saying that's the issue but it wouldn't be the first time.

Not that I recall, at least mine didn't. Perhaps on different years?

It's not, it's mild dom. I think the reasoning is that the mild steel resists stress cracking better and is much easier to repair. www.umiperformance.com/home/product/1998-2002-gm-f-body-k-member-ls1-road-race-version/

Picked it up from Amazon. So far so good. I read lots of reviews since there are so many different ones available. Pay attention as some will say they only work on certain year cars. Also, a lot of them will only show metric units (Celsius, kph, etc). wiiyii Car HUD Head Up Display P6, OBD+GPS Smart Gauge, Works Great for Most Cars a.co/d/9c3Bq87

Correct, they can be mounted on either side. Just make sure the letters are at the top when installing.

Can't wait!

Dorman part # 600-402 it's about $35 on Amazon. The Ford part is about $120.

For me it was price and weight. It's a track car. So anywhere I can save weight I try to.

.......but is it wrong? Haha

Well if past races are any indicator, then you won't have to watch very long. Lol

Is there any other way? Lol

Thanks for clearing that up!

Oooohhhhhhh.........lasers! Lucky, I have a grinder and a welder. Haha

Oh man, I can't believe I missed that. Good eye, I knew something wasn't right. Lol

good bc I was shocked when I saw the numbers 😅

Nice, I have always loved these cars. What are your plans for yours?

I got an LQ9 for it, I just got a shell, I hope it wont take too long to build.

@@8t8GTA There's lots of good f-body groups on Facebook where you can buy parts if you haven't looked there yet.

That's a good thought. If that was the case though it still makes no sense that they didn't just put it back together with a single butt connector. I'd love to hear the thought process on stuff like this from previous owners. Haha