I know property management don't have much info on units but I would see since it's a 2019 unit to see if warranty is still good and register for 10 years. I believe that would be a good option but if not then dye+refrigerant+labor be cheaper then replacing

good video i use the same leak detector 🔥

14x20 grill only gonna allow about 600 cfm through 2.5 ton needs 1000 you're already short air High humidity you can run about 350 per ton But again still short air

100 percent leak in the evap, replace it.

Yes. Aluminum, coil = leak. Ur doing a fantastic job. I dont think I could deal with the property mgmt . Shit Like u do.

I would say the leak in in the Evap coil, Nice job! Keep em coming!

Aw yeh

🤟💯🌎

Which property manangement /home warranty is good to work with… Some I’m dealing with, I’m dropping them… just wondering if there are more good ones out there, also I’m from indianapolis…

I like that leak detector, but once you go ultra won't go back. I still use my Field Piece but I find more with the ultrasonic .

You can just choose the gauges button and not start a project and it’s all free. All your targets will be there so you dial it in easily. You just need to use your brain to map everything correctly and probe placement.

Gotta run more pressure to find leak with bubbles.. I buy kids blow bubbles liquid. $5 for 1/2 gallon. Also, using the detector, fan the area first to clear out refrigerant that has already leaked out.

Another beeping smoke sensor? LOL!

So true about working on rentals. They don’t care

Great job

Power outage has nothing to do with your capacitor

To me happen almost same thing,with carrier furnace , couple models have a safety it working with ac and heat crazy rigth, have power on all the unit except on comun and red almost make me crazy. Call a experience technician and he told me cheq for rollout and presure switch and guess what a freaky roll switch wasent work that wy dont have 24 volt on my slot for thermostat 😅😅😅😅 they conected in secuency for the whole unit and go back to 24v on the board.

Good work, but assuming that you have a piston could throw you off. I would pop the evap panel off and check what I have. You may have a TXV, you may have a wrong size piston. You did good bro.

Hi bro, Great job!. I think it was a loose neutral wire in the circuit. Check in the switch box and all neutral wire connections.

Common is always on normal closed side of contactor

stickers hard 🔥

that filter was crazy 😂

If "d.ISC" is displayed on the SC440 meter, the capacitor is not discharged completely. Good video Thank You...

I hate when they put the condensers on an angle, makes it look goofy. I don't think it matters which side of the contactor you put the leads. On single pole contractors they have 1 leg hot all the time anyway.

Love your videos have learned a lot. I'm just a DIY guy here learning, no special tools. But just recently learned a few days ago that airflow is key, way way more than I thought it was night and day difference for me. In my new to me 1990 house I have a dual system downstairs and upstairs. Down stairs unit is in my insulated garage and is newer 2017 unit great flow and temps out the registers measure 19-21 delta from inside temp. Upstairs air handler is in the attic and it struggles can barely get temps down to 78-80 during the day but at night can maintain 72-74. Also registers were low on flow and would measure like 70-74 degrees when its 78-80 upstairs. Called a tech and after he hooked up and checked everything he recommended replacement because refrigerant level was good and no leaks he could find and there was nothing physically wrong he could find (23 year old unit). Don't have the cash for that right now so started looking to learn and see what I could do. Was able to vacuum out my drain, then cleaned the ac condenser coil outside (quite dirty) This helped a little the register air temps dropped 1-2 degrees. Went in the attic to take a peak inside the air handler. My blower motor was horrendous dirty, more than this one you just cleaned. Removed and cleaned the blower. Which gave me access to see the evaporator coil it was completely clogged in a 1/4" layer of dust and hair. Vacuumed out as much as I could and cleaned with the no rinse spray and a bristle brush. Also the blower was on the black wire and moved it to blue medium based on your videos for slowing the speed. Holy shit what a difference, delta from inside to vents is now 17-18 degrees, air flow is up even on the lower speed and I can maintain 72-74 though out the day and the system no longer runs continuously. I had a almost $400 electric bill last month has been 90+ in VA. I'm looking forward to seeing next months bill! Your videos have helped me a ton, thank you!

IT SAID DISC BRO xD

Putting the common wire on the bottom is how you emulate a single pole on a double pole contactor. It makes sense if you think about it. They did it correctly. Keep that in your pocket 😉.

Is your boss cool with you sticking your personal stickers on there instead of the company name,logo,and number?

Another successful call. The stickers are a nice touch for the channel.

I could hear the mad in his silence after you asked him that. LOL!!!

Amazing what a little cleaning will do! Enjoy the weekend!

Nicely done sir!

Whenever I do any service, I check for resistive heating, ohms to ground, ohms across motors, capacitor, charge and terminal connections. 99% of the time its broke due to lack of proper maintenance. On a 14 y/o system like that, it was not a power problem, it might have pushed it over the edge, but did not cause the issue. Code requires disconnect within 5 feet of the out door unit. Wire as per the diagram on the chart. The unit is overcharged. Could have sold him on a disconnect for safety, plugged up that hole coming out, jmo. Otherwise great video and troubleshooting skills. Glad to see younger faces in the trade.

we need content every day bra fw your videos

30 years and counting for me. You are making the same mistakes we have all made. Learn from it and move on.

For the service wrench Just grind the tip a little that makes go deeper and have good grip then it should work everytime

You do a good job always. however you need to learn a bit more about how electricity works. Other than that, good job.

Stop testing to ground test to the other side of the neutral. We got a test for return voltage lost common.

I am curious in the very beginning. The indoor coil Nameplate shows that the system is under 22 pressure. However, your outdoor gages are set to 410a and reading 410 pressures?

I always use common never use the cabinet for ground

I prefer to use my B tank while removing valves and compressors then using the oxy ace to braze it back in

Shot screws through both of those supports that hold the fan

I bet that wheel is off balanced or the weight on the vain is gone, most of them do have a weight on the wheel

I know the feeling, brother. I've been doing this for 5 years and still have calls like this. Working long hours and in the heat, you can't always think straight.

DON"T check to ground!!! Check to neutral. Did you put the original transformer back in?

Check the uniweld tuning fork tip it's made for sweating reversing valves.

I never tape the door switch. I just cut out the door switch and wire nut the leads. I knew you were checking the ground wrong but you figured it out. As long as you learned that's all that counts.

Like to see you trying to learn. Your Neutral wire is lost or broken to the furnace. Need electrical work. Should always check voltages from common to power or power to power. Never line one to ground. Transformer was not bad.

Yeah always check from the hot leg to neural. I like a meter that has a LOZ setting for ghost voltage also when checking A/C Voltage.

What about the coil in the house? Since the blower was so dirty, it just makes sense.