Interesting! Will read up on this 🙌

Awesome! Glad it helped 🙌

@@conormcsorley5912 sounds awesome!! Good luck 🤞

You need to check for spark. First check your HT leads are fitted properly and in the right order. The distributor cap should be numbered 1 & 2 - make sure 1 is running to the front cylinder & 2 to the rear. Take one of the spark plugs out and place the sparky end against the exhaust manifold (make sure you are not touching the engine yourself). Get someone to turn over the engine and check you have a spark. Repeat for the other spark plug. If you have spark, it could be a fuel issue - but start with the spark first and let me know how you get on.

These are Nanni pistons - www.fiat500sport.com/

You should be able to use any make of spark plug, but you need to have the right size. I recommend going on to one of the 500 supplier websites and ordering from them - or at least looking at the type and model they are recommending.

@@the500workshop Thanks so much, I've always wanted one of these cars, I just bought a 1970 and the issues keep piling up! haha

Hey 👋 ... technically you can't assure that - however, because you are not moving the distributor's engagement with the camshaft and it all fits together in only one way, the timing should remain close. Ideally, though you would always retime when replacing the chain or doing any work with the engine.

@@the500workshop I'm sorry, maybe you didn't understand correctly as English isn't my first language. I meant the timing between the camshaft and the crankshaft. From what I've seen the indicators are on the timing chain gears and I'm a little bit afraid that when taking them off, one of the shafts could move and I'd lose the indication of the timing, especially because I currently have the engine out with the head off and I don't have the flywheel fixated on the engine block. I'm not too worried about the ignition timing because I'm working on an engine with electronic ignition added by the Polish in the 90s, I just make sure that the timing sensor stays fixated on the distribution housing and I'm not going to mess with that. If you don't mind, I have another question, which is what you recommend after an engine top end rebuild (I'm replacing cylinders, pistons, timing chain, clutch, pretty much all gaskets, rubbers etc.) should I loosen up and retighten the cylinder head bolts during oil changes? My friend recommended that, because I'm not in laboratory conditions for my rebuild and there's quite a bit of cleaning left to do due to oil leaks, I should let the engine run after the rebuild for about half an hour, then replace the oil, clean oil filter, loosen up and then retighten the headbolts, and repeat after 1000km, wonder if you'd do the same. Sorry if I'm maybe asking a bit much but I very much value your channel and expertise on this very similar engine (working on a 650cc myself)

@@gerardo.8865 Yes there are two dots (one on each gear) that need to align on every second rotation of the crank shaft. The larger gear can only fit on the camshaft one way due to the alignment of the bolt holes. The smaller gear can only fit on the crankshaft one way due to the woodruff key on the crankshaft. But you have to adjust the chain to make sure the alignment between the gears is correct. Ideally you would still check and adjust the timing when you replace the chain. Don’t forget the chains become loose over time which is why we replace them, therefore timing can marginally change.

@@gerardo.8865after a rebuild I would use 30W running in oil. I run this for about 20mins and then do an oil change and replace with standard oil. It is good practice to check the head bolts after a few run outs. You need to make sure you are using a torque wrench and tightening them to the correct torque.

Thanks ... I'm trying 😉 Let me know if you need help with anything. Always happy to help and I'm interested in knowing what videos people need!

Hey 👋 - as per the video, it's about 1.2 Litres. Hope that helps.

Hey 👋 - this is the best fuel hose is this www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/55mm-id-732-100-bio-fuel-hose-diesel--petrol-22400400-2015-p.asp It’s expensive, but it’s the best and right hose to use. 5.5mm inside diameter is the one to go for 👍

Hey Yvette … 😮 - not sure there is an easy way to get it back in position whilst still fitted. That would be extremely hard to do! You might need to remove the tinwear to do it. Depending on your engine and setup, you might be able to remove it without lifting the head off. I think I can do that on my 650cc but not my 499cc (could be the other way round). But if you can’t easily remove the tinwear, you will need to follow some of this set of videos to remove it and put it back on kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6PPkJSBhLRre6Msi=0eSD8xkqhqYb4rab

Appreciate the comment 😊

Sure .... It should be under the front bonnet, to the left on the firewall, behind the fuel tank

@@the500workshop Many thank.

@@the500workshop many thanks.

I will try and do a video sometime in the next week or two on this.

@@the500workshop I will be looking forward to it. Thanks

@@frankybenincasa2797did you see my latest video? Does it help at all?

Hey - not specifically, as I have already done this job on my 500's, so unfortunately it's not in my current to do list. It may depend on which electronic ignition you buy, but ultimately the electronic ignition needs a positive feed and a ground (-'ve). These are usually, and easily, taken from the coil (+'ve to +'ve and -'ve to -'ve). Once you have done that, the set up in this video can be followed in terms of setting the timing, etc - it should be that easy :)

I have seen some people restore, them ... I've never tried it myself. I suspect there are companies out there that do this. You could fill and paint - not sure what the outcome would be though, nor how you would get the paint to be hard waring and long lasting. I have a couple of cracks in mine, but I view this as age and patina. 0.5cm is quite large though!!! If you do something yourself or find someone to do it, let me know ... might be useful for others 👍

@@the500workshop oh I just found this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKTHfIyqfdiGmZYsi=j7FDQFv5B9TwkloN . so yeah, will find the proper filler and restore it

Have you checked out my reply to the other markbuck4? When it's hot and not running, pull out a spark plug, or use a spare one and connect it to the HT lead for one of the cylinders. Ground the plug on part of the engine e.g. the engine mount, and get someone to turn the engine over. You are looking for a good spark. If you don't have one on one or both HT leads, then you know it's likely to be either the points, the condenser, or the coil (most likely the latter two). If you have a good spark, then it is likely fuel-related. Take the fuel hose off the carb, put it into a jar or some other container, and turn the car over to check the fuel pump is working. If that is working then the carb needs investigation - it could be an air leak or a blocked jet. Happy for you to contact me on Instagram or Facebook Messenger (The 500 Workshop) if you need more help/advice.

@@the500workshop Thanks for the advice, however I don't even think that the engine is seized because I had done the cylinder compression test. I had the carburetor serviced and cleaned to perfection. It doesn't seem like a fuel problem to me because it seems like the gasoline doesn't ignite well. it starts to lose power with a metallic noise and then shuts off. I have to wait for it to cool down and then it starts again. I thought it was the capacitor of the points which, as it heats up, no longer does its job and makes the points spark. I will try all your suggestions little by little. You now have a new subscriber

Let me know if you need anything specific and I can try and film or help

When the cars left the factory they would not have had any ‘inline’ filters. There would have been a filter on the end of the fuel pick-up inside the tank and another inside the fuel pump. The reason why people, like myself, use inline filters is that the fuel tank can and will contain rubbish (rust, etc) over time. This can interfere with the fuel flow or block the jets in the carb. Even with the original filters in place and having reconditioned my tanks, over time I was finding the odd fleck of something in my carb. In my experience the modern filters have finer filtration than the originals. I have put one in after the tank, and as you can see, one in after the pump. I have been running this set up for 8 years with no issues - but as pointed out by other comments, it is highly debated about having one after the pump and in the engine bay.

This is a great reply and one that deals in facts rather than opinion! So are you saying that you can expect some fuel evaporation due to the temperature increase? I concur that having 2 extra connections does increase some risk and maybe not considered best practice.

@@the500workshopin my personal experience, I bought the 500 with the same filter as yours in the same position, after the laps I put the car in a closed garage, there has always been a smell of petrol. I put the filter after the tank, eliminating it from the engine area and the smell of petrol disappeared, obviously it could have been a pipe not placed well or something else, but that's it. Of the two options I would always opt for the upstream filter, clean line, clean pump (and that's what the petrol filter is for) clean carburetor. regards

@@federox86 interesting thanks. I will take this into consideration. Really appreciate your input!

interesting - thanks, will check it out

I was always taught to remove the filler plug first, because if you've drained the oil and then discover that the filler plug is siezed you've just given yourself uneccessary grief.

@@robertwiles344 good call 👍

There are two things the engine needs to run - fuel and spark. If I was trying to investigate I would get a spare spark plug and when it’s too hot to start I would pull the HT leads in turn and plug them into the spare plug and get someone to try and start the engine whilst I held the spark plug somewhere on the engine (to ground it) … you are trying to check for a spark. The likely cause is either the distributor or coil is overheating - probably the coil. If you have spark, it might be that you have fuel evaporation, or the fuel pump is failing when hot. Do you have all the tinwear present, including the exhaust plate and the under engine plate? Often when people swap out the engine they leave these out and they are fundamental parts of the cooling system. If you need to chat more, might be worth finding me on FB Messenger (The 500 Workshop)

thanks :)

You need an intermediary ... I used my Sister-In-Law in France, but there are companies that will take delivery for you in Italy and then forward it on. Well worth the hassle as their engine parts are very good quality.

@@the500workshop ​​⁠​⁠​⁠ Ah luckily I can send it to my partner parents in Italy then 👍 Did classic car solutions send parts away to LF engine services and T&L engineering or did you do that independently?

Didn’t forget 😊 … they are unnecessary

Ricambio International - UK

The clutch is operated only by a cable - there is no fluid involved, so you probably have 2 issues. I assume by fluid you mean either engine oil or transmission oil? With the clutch it could be that the cable needs adjustment. The only other parts of the clutch operation are the thrust bearing and the clutch plate … When you say the car continues to move even with the clutch depressed - is the car on the ground or is it on jack stands?

@@the500workshop You were right. It is a fuel leak. The hose rubbed underneath. Does that house run from the fuel tank inside the car until it comes outside?

@@marcussantiago285​​⁠yes, it runs through the firewall, around the pedals, through the tunnel (where you have the gear stick and handbrake) and then out and under the car to the engine. It’s important that you use proper fuel modern fuel line, with proper fuel line clips/fastners (not standard Jubilee clips). If you use metal line, which I do on the exposed sections, you need to make sure you flare the ends of the pipe where it connects to the flexible fuel line. You can get a cheap tool to do this. If you need any further info, happy for you to DM me on Facebook messenger or Instagram 🙌

En español

Excellent - any problems, let me know

Thanks - glad it helped

I have tried but my current recording equipment is not good enough to pick up the strobe light - that might be why there are a lack of videos on how to do it as others may have had the same problem … also I have electronic distributors on my cars so it would be less useful for people with normal points. Will try again soon though!!!

Just a good explanation and pointing out what to look for with the strobe would be brilliant

And setting the carb to. Sorry if asking a lot but found your videos really helpful in my restoration

@@antonyrawson9231 will have a stab in the next couple of weeks 👍

yep - not nice at all ... a real hassle to clean off everything!!

Hey - that might be something simple like the clutch or the clutch cable. You should check that the cable is fixed to the side of gearbox, near the back, and is tight - I have heard of similar symptoms that you are experiencing caused by this. Also, check the tension of the cable (check out video 111). Let me know how you get on ... and if you want to discuss, please DM me on Instagram @the500workshop, or try and find me on Messenger (James Dilley) I don't know any mechanics specifically around that area - sorry

As your car was jacked up it would have been a good idea to have lowered it off the jacks & run the engine for a few minutes & then checked the dipstick again on a level surface

I do not believe there is a specified torque in any of the books or manuals for these bolts. They should use spring washers to help hold them in place, so tight with a ratchet should be good enough.

@@the500workshop Thank you!