If i may make a suggestion? In regards to the decals, What I do on these smaller ships, i use microsol to lay the decals, then put my decal down, line it up, then I use a cotton makeup pad to smash down the decal to the ships. I then give it a good coating of microset, let it sit for a min, then i do another Smash or blot down on the decal on the ship. What this does is Force out excess water/microsol,from under the decal,sets it from moving and because of its padded nature, it will push the decal all around raised surfaces which helps out a TON, dar better than a brush can achieve, further more if you have raised areas(say the Phaser turrets on the Enerprise a/Relian, you can also pinpoint the decal over those areas with microset and a q-tip just a few Dabbs of force down over those areas and BAM! Flush decals! Give it a try!

Great to know¡- I like season 2 version better

Your work would look better if you spayed those models with a clearcoat after you apply the decals. The shininess is not to scale, and if you use a matt coat, not only will it look more realistic, it will hide many of your decal flaws. Nice work overall, though. Thanks.

There's no USS Cerritos, in Star trek lore.

It's not the best looking model. It doesn't look like the enterprise at all from the original series. Pike was before Kirk and the enterprise looked nothing like that

Enjoyed your video! Great breakdown of the polar lights build 👍

I haven't built a Star Ship in years. ut your unboxing has made me want to get this one. And Just go for it.

this is one of the best Star Wars kits ever produced, is actually 1/24 scale and matches a SS XWing (i do not know why they mismark it 1/32), however that PE fret is utter nonsense

Fascinante Jim

Looks great! Thanks for sharing

As much as I despised STD, this iteration of the Enterprise is just beautiful. I already built this kit a couple of years ago, with lighting kit and aztec decals, and it's magnificent.

Very nice. One thing you should try is thinning the material near the windows with a dremel tool, and grinder. Thin from the inside, of course. This is something I did on my 1/72 Uboat around the intake vents. Its not hard, its not all that time consuming, and it looks so much better. Nice work on this. I'm going to build this someday.

If it was 350 scale it would be better. If it's 1/1000 it would only be about 13 inches...

what did you do to your hand

Very nice!!! Looks so great with the lights I love it!

Very cool, like this fresh version of the TOS Enterprise, and also like Strange New Worlds 😃😃😃 🖖😃

Could you replace the rod of the stand with a transparent acrylic rod? Would solve the view blocking issue.

An absolutely idiotic design.

Nice kits but way to small..😢

Hey mate. Do you know if Polar Lights themselves do a lighting kit for this model? I cant solder, so a plug and play light kit is what I’m after. Cheers and I love your modelling skills. Jason.

Green Strawberry also has a photo etch set for this kit. The Green Strawberry set includes parts for the floor grill.

Oh boy, Captain we are attacked by a pipe! think I have to come up with some other base then this one...

I think it sucks to begin with, the original was perfect, the new one looks like a hot rod version!

Just one of the many benefits of this smaller scale is that you can build different variations (I know of at least 3 different conversion kits that are avalable)for this kit alone!

Hope will come soon at Spain. I love that design and the TV series too.

Concerning the difference between the TOS pylon and SNW pylon; I’ve theorized that the split is a common sense engineering design to separate the Jeffries access tube from the Warp conduit, thereby giving protection to crew traversing to the engines.

I haven't built any models besides Gunpla kits (no painting) and Lego, but man do I really want to try this now! The engineering is impressive, and I love that they thought about electronics integration when they designed it.

Great video, thanks :)

I never understood the mentality of putting a giant windshield on the command center of a ship made to operate in space. Especially in an era (at least in the real timeline) where they don't have forcefields that can pop up instantly. The idea of the giant holoscreen (like in TNG/DS9/Voyager) is much safer.

I haven't built models for years and never illuminated any, so I'm not up to date with the latest techniques. To get a more even illumination in the Enterprise nacellles (even after frosting), would it be possible to use electroluminescent (EL) wire, panels or tape along their length? I have an unbuilt Millenium Falcon kit from around 40 years ago which would have had engines illuminated by grain bulbs, which I disliked as they generated lots of heat to produce a bright convincing enough light. I thought the engines and cockpit rear bulkhead would look better using cutable EL panels that were beginning to appear at the time, but never really looked into it as life took me away from modelling. Now I am retired, I'm thinking of taking up modelling again and would like to build the old Falcon - I can't find much on using EL tech in model kits - has this been tried, and failed?

I want a U.S.S Menifee and Temecula.

I may have missed but do you have a price for this awesome kit?

Thanks for the vid. What size LEDs did you use? Are they all 5MM?

I am watching and waiting for this model to be available on Amazon

This is definitely a MUCH better design that the Excelsior Class engines. One of the things I lament about the re-release for the Excelsior was the lack of redesign for the nacelles. They should have made the grills a single piece instead of two - especially in the standard Excelsior where the entire warp nacelle grill is visible. Like the ribbed neck, it's almost impossible to hide the seams.

Gave up on the ST franchise when STD came into being, but I have to say of all the reimaginings of the ENTERPRISE, this is the best to make it to the screen. It is far more believable than the Abram Trek Enterprise. I have not built a model in 25 years, but I have a collection of kits stored away from years ago, and have been tempted to buy another kit every now and then to add in case I get back into it. I may buy this kit if I run across it. My current hobby of firearms and reloading is getting expensive.

Really enjoying this build!🤠🤠🤠🤠🤠

...that solution to the nacelles drooping is magnificent! Now I want them to revise the 2009 Star Trek Enterprise model build with all of these updates...!

Very nice!

i wish you could focus your camera i find it hard to watch some parts of the video because the camera is blurred

Really a beautiful job on that Excalibur, I love hearing how Lou's masks worked for you, they look fantastic. I'm actually considering something a little silly for my Discovery-boxed version of this kit, partly because I want to see how it looks, and partly because it will greatly simplify the paint. I actually want to mod the model slightly to give it some older TOS-looking details (bridge, warp pylons), and paint it specifically in the original overall gray scheme. I'll probably build a few of these, I was even considering doing one in a pearly TMP scheme.

Do this one first

🖖😎👍Looking very cool and Comeing all together very nicely well indeed Sir!👌.

You know the dish on the Constitution class was called 'Primary Sensor Array' originally? I just found that out after looking at some old 1701 schematics, I guess they proactively changed it later, probably after TNG. Mind boggled.

Thank you for the review. Really liking all of the updates.

Running tape light around the molded in stand offs is how I did my DiscoPrise, except I used 5mm Cob for an extremely consistent look. I then ran one reversed on the backside of the stand offs for the central saucer lighting.

I love kits with modern tooling and engineering. 😁

Can you tell us what the internal length of the nacelles are, for those of us who are thinking of using filament LEDs to light them?

Is it a good guess that they altered the tooling of the Discovery version so we can never build it again as that ship vs making new tooling for this version?

EL tape or that flexible rubbery EL rope is a much better choice for nacelles, or even coiling inside the saucer hulls for even ambient lighting that doesnt create the very unrealistically bright window lighting thats way too common in modelling You dont get the LED hot spots. Its just even and continuous