I don't think there is a left right adjustment, not one that I could find anyway. However, if your light is tracking that far off the center line, the bulb is likely not seated correctly between the spring and the bulb seat. Check to make sure you have the three little "fingers" on the bulb apron aligned correctly with the seat. It should sit perfectly flat, then reattach the spring. Then again, an off-set bulb would make for a disorganized beam. If the beam is clean and true but crooked, the entire light housing may be out of alignment, in which case I would unofficially suggest gently punching it back into position, lol.

@@PsyclawsSorry I'm cracking up at 'unofficially suggest punching it' Thanks for the vid!

#2 Phillips. T15 to T20 torx would probably work too. Either way you’re going to need at least a 10” shaft to reach the threads. Otherwise use a 8mm socket on the backside as I did.

@@Psyclaws I'll try the #2 Phillips. It's just too tight a fit for my hands with a socket set on my 2008 Highlander. Also, it looks like i need a 8-in. minimum shaft length for the Screwdriver--pretty far down. Thanks again for the info! 🖕

Just bought a Phillips #2 Screwdriver 8-in. shaft. Turned clockwise and didn't notice any change in light (up or down). So, tried counterclockwise. Same thing, no noticeable change. Does it require MANY turns to have the light move up or down? The Screwdriver definitely feels like it us engaged/seated properly.

⁠​⁠@@azipcode2uIf the screwdriver teeth didn’t actually engage the teeth on that sprocket, I’m thinking that hole is actually made for a specialized headlight adjustment tool. I’ve seen it before; it’s basically a #15 or 20 torx or hex head on a long shaft. I found one on Amazon but description said it was specific for a Jeep. I can’t find any details on any of the Highlander forums. I wish I knew exactly what size to tell y’all for sure. I really thought the teeth in a Philips would bite just enough to turn those teeth as easy as it was to turn the socket on the backside. If you just can’t reach that socket, try harbor freight for a set of long shaft Torx drivers. I’m betting either a #15,20 or 25 would work.

@@kpobrien2858if the teeth are truly engaged, you should be able to see the beam raise and lower as you turn the screwdriver. I didn’t have to turn the socket on the backside much at all, just a few revolutions put me back on plane. If you can’t see the beam moving as you twist, the screwdriver may not be biting.

Wow! From the company! I’m honored. Almost wish I had done more homework and another take or two.

I don't think there is a left right adjustment. However, if your light is tracking that far off center line, the bulb is likely not seated correctly between the spring and the bulb seat. Check to make sure you have the three little "fingers" on the bulb apron aligned correctly with the seat. It should sit perfectly flat, then reattach the spring. Then again, an off-set bulb would make for a disorganized beam. If the beam is clean and true but crooked, the entire light housing may be out of alignment, in which case I would suggest gently punching it back into position, lol.

Or to throw flour into the air

Yea. I'm fairly certain it was my thumb resting on the slide release button that caused the issue this time. I knew the caliber had plenty of power to rock the slide all the way back, I wasn't limp-wristing as you can see, and I've had zero stove-pipes or failure to feed problems in almost a thousand rounds so far. I had a feeling the issue was somehow my fault, and checking a few forums backed up my suspicions. Apparently, thumbs depressing the slide release button is a common issue. I was able to replicate it in subsequent trips to the range by intentionally resting my thumb on the slide release button with only moderate pressure. I guess having 'light thumbs" the best medicine given the small frame size and slide release placement. I’ve noticed many KZbin instructors preaching this lately just as a general concept. In a high stress situation I'll probably forget everything I’ve learned and grip the gun with enough force to squeeze a round off without actuating the trigger, lol. I'm honestly not that concerned though. I don't use my slide release button when reloading anyway. I train using gross motor movements and always use my offhand to rack and release the slide as you see in the beginning of this clip. Slide lock open or not, after seven rounds, my eyes won't be on my gun, so squeezing the trigger again after the last shot will yield the same result either way. I'll just stick with practicing shot placement and reload efficiency.

I have a very similar grip when I shoot so hopefully I was doing the same thing. I'll be headed to the range within the next few days so I'll try out your theory. Thanks man.. good luck

What you said was the problem EXACTLY. . I kept my thumb away from the release and it locked open every time. . I purposely held my thumb ON the release and it did not.. problem solved.. Thank you for the advice my man!